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Remulak posted:I've got a horrible water hammer that developed in a downstairs toilet a year after I moved in. Turning off the water to the house and trying to flush the system does nothing. Next I thought I'd replace the toilet tank mechanism, but that's all that occurred to me. Don't have much to add but this might give you some ideas.
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May 21, 2009 20:17
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I've got what I hope is a simple plumbing question. I've moved the wall drain for my washing machine. The old drain is galvanized steel with a roof vent. I'm thinking that I might just leave the old plumbing in place and bury it behind the new wall or at the very least, bury the roof vent behind the wall and take out the old drain and p-trap. So my question is - What is the best way to cap the roof vent? Can I use one of those rupper quick caps with the pipe clamp or is there a better/more permanent solution?
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Mar 4, 2010 20:17
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Thanks for the info. Was just up on the roof to install a temporary rubber cap and it looks like it's just straight pipe. I probably won't be completing this project for a while so I'll just leave it capped off for now and pull the whole pipe and fix the roof.
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Mar 4, 2010 21:00
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I'm concerned that it will fill up with water if I cap it in the wall. It's just an open pipe pointed at the sky. When I moved the drain I disconnected the vent from the plumbing as well. I installed a AAV with the new plumbing but the old vent and drain aren't attached to anything anymore.
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Mar 4, 2010 21:54
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So another quick question - Can I use the flexible rubber couplers if they are going to be buried behind a wall or am I better off using rigid, glue on ABS couplers instead?
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Mar 5, 2010 17:22
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Just to be sure, you're talking about this style correct? I figured the ABS coupler would be better but unfortunately it's a pretty tight area I have to work with and I don't know if it will fit. I'll probably buy both and try the ABS first but if there isn't room go for the rubber. Thanks again!
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Mar 5, 2010 17:40
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I ran into something similar in my house and it turned out that I needed a larger diameter drain pipe. The original drain was 1" diameter, which was fine for old washers but modern washers need a 2" pipe. The 1" drain would backup and start overflowing just like you're describing. The 1" pipe simply couldn't handle the amount of water the washer is trying to push through it.
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Aug 2, 2010 13:54
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Dumb question I can't seem to find an answer to - What kind of box do I need to use when putting a natural gas connector inside a wall? Longer version - in my wash room the gas line, washer drain and dryer vent come straight up through the floor behind the washer and dryer. I intend to extend the wall out so that everything is inside the wall. The washer drain is easy, I've ordered a Dryerbox for the dryer vent but I can't figure out what to use for the gas line. Is there a special or recommended way to keep the connection on the line available that looks good with a finished wall?
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Jul 24, 2011 14:05
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Well crud. I ordered the DB3D dryer box which looks like it has the smaller punch out but it's on the wrong side. I'm not particularly comfortable playing with or changing the gas line so if there's another, smaller option I would appreciate it.
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Jul 24, 2011 20:17
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I'll have to look at the dryer box when it arrives but I'm assuming it comes with the vent hole already cut. If not and it's a simple punch out that would certainly make life easier and I should be able to fit the vent and the gas line in the same box. I'm assuming the line is for the dryer. When I moved it the line was capped off and an electric dryer had been installed. I'm not sure what type of valve is on the end but from the look of it, it's an older valve. I've attached a picture of the area behind the dryer to give a better idea of what I'm looking at.
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Jul 24, 2011 21:12
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wait are you actually trying to install a gas dryer or do you just want to keep the gas line. If you aren't going to use it, just burying it in the wall. Its capped already so you shouldn't have a problem. I'm not going to use it but I want to keep it available after I extend (deepen?) the wall in case I or the next owner want to use it in the future. Could I get away with using something as simple as a washing machine connection box?
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Jul 24, 2011 22:13
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Finally managed to find the term I was looking for. They're called gas valve outlet boxes. Like so: http://oatey.com/Channel/Shared/ProductGroupDetail/503/Gas+Valve+Outlet+Box.html
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Jul 24, 2011 22:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Didnt you say you didn't want to mess with the gas line itself? Because for that box you will have to. I'm less concerned with adding a little than I am with trying to rework the pipe that's already there. That does bring up a question that I'm not 100% certain on though - In the picture I posted earlier there's the connector with the plug in it. I don't know if you can tell from that shot but I believe it is a valve (if you can't tell I can take another shot from the other side). To install a wall valve like I linked to before it would simply be a matter of removing the plug from the valve already there, installing the new valve/box into the old one (with appropriate tape or dope), leaving the original valve open and calling it good wouldn't it? To test it could I get away with the soapy water method or is there a better way? If I'm missing something, please let me know (even if it's to tell me I'm an idiot and to hire a professional). As I'm sure you're more than well aware a weekend DIYer with a little bit of knowledge can be a very bad thing. If I'm missing something I'd rather have my feelings hurt than potentially blow up my house.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:04
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I can't tell if thats a valve, i'd need another picture. But if you tape then dope the male threads you should be fine. Though if for some reason you royally gently caress this up and have a leak. The home owners insurance won't cover it that I know of. Yeah and that's the thing. I've worked with gas fittings before but it's always been for something like air, argon or nitrogen. I'm not foolish enough to think that hooking up a few 1/4" gas lines is exactly like hooking up natural gas iron pipe though. I'm confident that doing a job as simple as this is within my level of skill but I've still got that little nagging voice in the back of my head warning me of danger. I think for safety's sake I'll just stick with the panel cover like you recommended and call it good. I doubt I'll ever use the gas hookup and if for some reason I do I can have someone do the hookup for me. Thanks for your thoughts and recommendations. Much appreciated. Oh, and here's another shot that is hopefully more informative than the first.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:33
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I'm putting a new tile floor into a half bath and will be replacing the toilet drain. Do I want to install the drain in the subfloor and cut the tile around it or do I install the drain in top of the tile? If either way works, is one way better or preferred over the other? Thanks a ton.
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Oct 23, 2011 22:39
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Thanks for the info. We're going to reuse the old toilet for now. We'll probably want to replace it in the future since it's one of those old school "we don't give a gently caress how much water it uses" shitters and it's ugly as piss. But I'll keep an eye open for your recommendation when the time comes to remove it. TouchyMcFeely fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Oct 24, 2011 |
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Oct 24, 2011 14:05
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For general info - I would recommend staying far away from any shower pan that doesn't rest completely on the floor. I bought a cheaper fiberglass pan at Home Depot that had a lot of dead space underneath. It supported the weight of whatever was on it by three lovely little adjustable legs. The directions said all that was needed to support the pan other than the legs was a ring of cement around the drain. The amount of flex it had was a concern but hey, if all they recommend is a ring of cement around the drain then that's all it needs, right?  It lasted about 3 weeks before it cracked and had to be ripped out. I ended up replacing it with a Swanstone pan and couldn't be happier.
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Oct 31, 2011 00:16
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Question for the Goon Lord Plumbers. The top picture is a top down view of the original cast iron. When I run the washing machine it backs up into the shower and then slowly drains. It's likely just a clog after the 45 deg connection but since I have to take it down to access it anyway I'd like to go ahead and replace the original plumbing. My question is do I have to replace it in the same way it is now or can I use a wye and connect the shower drain further up the washing machine line like in the second drawing?
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Aug 16, 2012 21:35
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jackyl posted:Do it the second way, except your wye is upside down in that picture. It's a horizontal run drawn from the top down perspective. I'm just not sure if you can use a wye unless it's tying into a vertical line.
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Aug 17, 2012 15:52
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Just a word of warning, I originally installed a fiberglass shower pan during my half bath remodel. I followed the instructions when it came to support under the pan to a T. Every time I'd stand on the fiberglass pan it would sag and bend. After about 3 months it cracked and I had to rip it out and throw it away. I ended up replacing it with a Swanstone pan and couldn't be happier. When it comes to bathroom hardware you really don't want to cheap out. The stuff is ridiculously expensive but you're much better off going with a material more substantial than fiberglass. Having to rip out a new bathroom because you tried to save a few bucks sucks rear end.
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Aug 21, 2012 13:41
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I installed a shower pan about a year ago that had a lip going up about an inch to prevent water from leaking underneath the pan. I would imagine tubs like that would have the same thing as well. And unless the tile/board was installed incorrectly you shouldn't have to worry about water wicking up the wall either.
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Nov 11, 2012 01:47
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Just received an outrageous water bill saying that I used 47,100 gallons in June when in May I was around 20,000. Nothing has changed between May and June and I don't have any leaks in the house or that I can find in the yard. I went out to the water meter to checking the reading on the meter and found the lid is held in place with a pentagon shaped nut. I measured it as best I could and it looks like it's 15/16ths from tip to base. I've tried searching around for a curb key to fit this thing but none of them have dimensions but appear to have multiple sizes. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for? 
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Jun 29, 2013 23:19
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kid sinister posted:Use a pair of channel locks. You only have to turn it a quarter turn, then pry up the lid from the side. Tried that but no dice. I couldn't get a good grip on it since it's recessed into the lid. Any amount of force and the wrench slipped right off.
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Jun 30, 2013 00:26
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 03:19 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's a 3/4 5-point. Available from snap-on for about $36 last I looked. Get a piece of 3/4 EMT from a big box and hammer that on, then use the channel locks to spin the nut. You can also get a super-cheap 12-point socket from a dollar store or thrift store and hammer that on there. I got lucky and happened across this curb key while shopping for something else. Just happened to have the right sized key for the lid. I also think I found the leak after another walk through of the house. And wouldn't you know it, it's the water shutoff valve for the house. Now that I have the water shut off at the meter I can take it apart and replace whatever it is that's causing the leak.
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Jun 30, 2013 18:05
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