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What's your opinion on sharkbite? I've done a decent amount of residential plumbing with finishing basements, etc, and just put in a water powered backup sump pump for my brother in law. Anyway, it had sharkbite fittings and they seemed nice, but I don't know... I choose sweat supply valves over compression every time, so maybe I'm psychologically deficient (well, every fitting, nut just supply valves, but I figured that made my point), but the sharkbite fittings just didn't seem right to me. Its not leaking now or anything, but I wonder about its long term efficacy. edit: quote:My main plumbing stack shoots all the way up through the roof of the house as a stink pipe, yet there is an open Y-connector (no trap) in the basement that the laundry machine drains into via a garden hose, why doesn't the laundry room smell like sewer? This is just a random thing I've wondered about from time to time. Probably a trap in the concrete or they went hillbilly and fed it into the sump.
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May 7, 2009 02:41
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Expect a massive quote. There should be a cutoff outside that you can use and then it is no different than replacing any other shutoff, just a bit bigger. Using MAPP gas will make it easier to sweat a larger pipe.
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Jul 21, 2009 15:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Unless he's soldered alot before i doubt he will want to try to learn how to on a live line. Sharkbites would do it too, albeit at a higher expense.
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Jul 21, 2009 18:26
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Honestly I wouldnt even try soldering it live. And a shark bite fitting only coasts like $10 roughly. I think its worth it in this case. Its not like he's plumbing his whole house in them. Oh yeah, I wasn't recommending doing it live (even with a sharkbite), just after he found the street shutoff.
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Jul 21, 2009 22:13
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That is extremely cheap. I would have expected a much higher one.
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Jul 22, 2009 12:58
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Check your cold water shutoff under the sink, maybe you hit it while doing something there. Could also be your faucet - is it one with separate handles for hot and cold or a single one that you move side to side?
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Jul 30, 2009 20:39
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Oh, I missed that the toilet and shower were out too... Do you hear anything when you open the valves for cold water?
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Jul 30, 2009 22:19
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While we're on the subject of showers, will 1/2" pipes be sufficient for adding a full body sprayer system? We're redoing our bath with radiant heat tile and while we were at it decided, what the hell, let's take out the boring shower inserts and tile it. And while at that, what the hell, let's upgrade to a full body sprayer. I could run tees from the bathtub over to provide additional flow if need be, but I think that would only be useful if it was 3/4 up to the shower / tub split, right? And, if 1/2 supplies are sufficient, anyone have any full body sprayer recommendations or sites that generally offer good deals on them? I found what I thought was a good deal on overstock (Vigo, I think was the brand), but the reviews scared me off.
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Nov 20, 2009 22:49
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Great info Thanks! We have a 75 gallon tank, so it isn't quite as dire as the 40 gallon scenario, but I will have to pay attention to GPM ratings when I am picking one out. After some quick googling, it looks like your 2 GPM estimate was pretty close, so I will definitely take that into consideration - maybe only a couple sprayers instead of four. I was anticipating jacking up the water heat too so we used less hot water as grover told someone above, so that'll help too. Thanks for the advice on pipe length too - it probably would have been pretty close to the same length, but now I will make sure of that.
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Nov 21, 2009 22:47
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If this is a shower that will have tile on it, you need a membrane too. Not sure what the application is, though, so it may be unnecessary.
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Jan 26, 2010 18:19
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Dragyn posted:I believe you need a plumber's/pipe wrench. The shape of the head will give it more grip when it turns, rather than just slipping. Or a strap wrench.
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May 4, 2010 15:33
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They are called water hammer arrestors, but that seems like a weird place to put them.
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May 11, 2010 00:03
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That makes sense, but I thought they had to go at the closest 90 to the shutoff point to work properly. Is that not the case?
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May 11, 2010 17:35
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Or a lot of places will do a high loop under the sink instead of an air gap. Depends on your area's code - I think there are places that allow it, but I'll let a pro like Rd Rash confirm.... I replaced my air gap with a high loop simply to put in an undermount soap dispenser. If I go to sell and the buyers complain, I'll replace the dispenser with the old air gap.
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May 11, 2010 19:41
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That's exactly my scenario. I didn't want an air gap through our nice new counter, so I had a hole for one put in and stuck in the soap dispenser. That way I can put an air gap in without having to drill a new hole if I ever have to.
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May 11, 2010 19:56
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It will anyway without the inspection. I asked state farm about it before finishing my first basement and they didn't require a permit or inspection.
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Oct 8, 2010 18:20
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I've heard about a gas job a friend wanted to do on his own. And if he blew his house up it wouldnt be covered. But its all word of mouth that I was told it wouldnt be covered. Yeah, mine's word of mouth too since I'm self reporting my conversation, so dietcokefiend should contact his agency or just pay the $45, whatever he wants. I just wanted to make sure people knew that permits aren't necessarily required for insurance coverage. Back on the thread topic, you gave me advice a while back about Moen body sprays, and I never followed up to say thanks. It works very well, although 4 sprays plus a shower head reduces pressure quite a bit. I'm thinking about getting one of those low pressure heads or something to ensure a good stream from the top valve with the sprayers on. Any recommendations as to good heads or what to look for in one? Thanks!
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Oct 8, 2010 19:08
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No, it was 1/2 and I went back and forth on rerunning supply with 3/4, but the amount of drywall I would have had to tear out and replace was ridiculous. I still get pretty good flow, it would just be nice to have higher pressure with both opened all the way up. I'll experiment with heads and see.
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Oct 8, 2010 21:00
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Rd Rash will know better, but I'd think you are best off cutting outside the T, sweating a tee on to the replacement shutoff and putting 1" sweated pipe on the tee, then putting it in with couplers and sweating those to the original. Or just say gently caress it and use sharkbites. What is even going on there? Braided supply line, a couple shut offs, what looks to my inexperienced eye like a supply line feeding a drain (is that gas supply?)....
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Jan 13, 2011 03:57
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Or one of the knobs is backfilling the neck. Edit: Just saw that the spray changes based on whether it is on or off. That will tell you whether it is the knob or the neck gasket if you try one on, one off and compare.
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Apr 8, 2011 02:05
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Then yeah, you need to take the faucet off to see what it is. There's a nut under the counter holding the neck in place that you can undo. Once you do that, you can pull the faucet out and turn the water on to inspect where it is leaking from. Disassemble wherever that is and replace any washers, gaskets, plumbers putty, or whatever it is depending on the faucet. Edit: not that I'm a big fan of tossing stuff away needlessly, because I'm not, but that looks like a cheap faucet. By the time you go to the effort of fixing something, you might be better off just getting a new faucet if you can get one like like that for $30 or $40. Depends on your evaluation of your plumbing ability. This option requires less effort, skill, and home depot runs than the first one. let it mellow fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 8, 2011 |
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Apr 8, 2011 02:25
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Phummus posted:
Probably dumb questions but are you sure that a) you have enough water in the sump to discharge and b) the check valve arrows are pointing the correct direction (up)? Those are the only two possibilities I can think of, besides maybe a stuck check valve as Rd Rash mentioned.
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Apr 27, 2011 13:55
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You can get toilet flange extensions for when you put the tile in. Wax plus an extension should be fine. Edit: both sides will compress/spread as long as the wax goes high enough all the way around, one will just compress more.
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May 19, 2011 21:16
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What loop? There's no problem you can see because dishwashers are sealed. Rd Rash 1000cc is a pro, and I'm an amateur, but as soon as I saw that picture, I was going to call bullshit. I live in Kentucky, which is on of two (IIRC) states that do not allow loops and require air gaps, but I put in a loop to use the air gap hole in my granite for a soap dispenser. However, if we ever decide to sell our house, I will note in the disclosure that I am willing to put the air gap back in place at the cost of the sunken soap dispenser. What you showed, on the other hand, has absolutely no relation to a loop. Yeah, the line drops below the tee (which should be a wye, right???) so you have a fake trap, but drat... Edit: I think you are also loving up venting requirements. let it mellow fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 03:47
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DVD Drive posted:Can toilet water end up getting sucked up into an earlier part of the pipes or is this probably rust or something? The latter - look at where your bowl supply is. It isn't possible for toilet water to get sucked up there, let alone the pressure differential.
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Nov 10, 2011 22:58
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I was helping a buddy track down a leak that was dripping in his basement and we narrowed it down to one of the hot water supply lines in his kitchen. Thing is, thease are weird connectors. I was expecting usual compression fittings or something, but instead got this: Is this another kind of John Guest fitting or something else? Either way, I would guess we're just better of replacing them as opposed to screwing around with trying to reseat or tighten them.
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Jan 12, 2012 14:18
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Yes they are similar. I dont know if you can remove those. Try turning off the water and draining the house down. Turn off the water heater also. Just incase you siphon it. Thanks. I figured it was something close to that and just recommended that he buy a compression or sweat fitting so we could just get rid of that valve, whatever it is. There's a slight chance the leak is where the supply hits the sink faucets, so we tied paper towels there too, but I suspect it is these unions. It is kinda cool that you can just pull it up for a shutoff though.
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Jan 13, 2012 03:08
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Looks like clay to me, too.
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Jan 26, 2012 22:55
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Air gas are code pretty much everywhere, but having said that, I put in a high loop for my dishwasher to have a sink mounted soap dispenser and it has worked fine for years. If we ever sell, I will put the air gap back if they request, but you should be okay with a high loop as long as it is higher than your drainage pipes under the sink. Is it reinforced any way to stay high? If not, maybe some pipe straps to the bottom of your counter or in the back wall if you have a stone countertop. I don't know how it could be rain.
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Mar 17, 2012 22:31
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What's the genreal opinion on metal (brass or copper) to CPVC connections? I had a sillcock with a female threaded copper to pvc adapter where the adapter failed (finished basement). So I've pulled that out and am going to replace the sillcock with a frostfree one and simplify the shutoff valve before fixing the drywall, since it was awkward before. However, I still have to get between copper (or brass if I go direct to the sillcock) and cpvc. I don't want to use another one of those adapters, which leaves me with either male cpvc into female copper threads or a sharkbite. Maybe there's another option, but those two seem like the best. Anyone have a vote one way or the other? Cost isn't a consideration, just long term efficacy since it will be buried behind drywall.
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Apr 12, 2012 21:58
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Rip out as much of that cpvc as you can. I bet it was a plastic thread male adapter. Personally you don't have many options. Either sharkbite or cpvc. It was a transition that had a copper female thread with a washer over a cpvc piece with a lip. The washer apparently dry rotted while I had the water off for and the valve open for the winter. I could probably have just replaced the washer, but I said gently caress it, I have the drywall open, let's make sure this never happens again. Thanks for the advice. I was leaning toward sharkbite, but just wanted another opinion before I pulled the trigger. I will get faucet lube - is this what you meant? And as far as the stiffener goes, I'll figure that out when I get the SB. I've put them on a couple of friends' houses for water powered backup sump pumps before, but never taken anything out of them. I will definitely look for that. Thanks again!
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Apr 13, 2012 13:02
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Thank you both! It is done and I am just giving it a couple hours before pressurizing the sillcock. I ended up with a Sharkbite 90 that had a female adapter on one side and the SB fitting on the other. It seemed to work perfectly, so I appreciate the advise!
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Apr 15, 2012 19:05
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You don't need to wait for hours to test it if you didnt use any cpvc. Yeah, I seriously considered Pex for the section I put in, but there's a lot more cpvc beyond the small section of drywall I have ripped out, so I did use it. It worked fine though once pressurized. I know at some point I'm going to end up ripping all the cpvc out and putting in pex, but am holding off on that til I'm forced to. I suppose I could release the SB and put in another just so one part of the house has its cpvc gone. Our house is around 11 years old, and I wasn't sure on how long cpvc is good, but I figured at least 20 years, right?
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Apr 15, 2012 23:06
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You should have used pex IMO. I've seen cpvc fail from apartments build in '97 or so. I would rip it out as much as possible. Use Pex-A if you can though. It's the Uponor Pex. I can still do that before putting the drywall back. It would require taking a bit more drywall out to get the shutoff valve (cpvc) replaced and go the distance to the main though. Maybe it would be worth it.
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Apr 16, 2012 12:41
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I just found your post in ask/tell and it looks like you traced it up at least one floor. If so, that's good news for you if it doesn't tie in to any other drains, so there's no way any waste can come down it. The bad news is even if you did trace it up, it will be exposed to rain / snow where it comes out of your roof, so you'd have to seal it there too... And I don't know if that's against code or not, but I can easily see where it would be since someone might come along later and try to use that stack. Now, there's also a question about where the drain goes under the floor and if it is being used for any other drainage (probably not, since you only get a few feet between drain and vent) because if so, again you can't take it off. Are you ever going to finish your basement? I'd recommend leaving it there regardless of whether its in the way or not, because a bathroom basement both adds value and it very useful. Edit: just saw a real plumber's response.. Is it okay to cap off the bottom of the stack even though it is (presumably) coming out of the roof? Won't that just fill with water eventually?
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Apr 17, 2012 02:18
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Canuckistan posted:Should I replace a PVC flange that seems to be in pretty good condition(age unknown, perhaps up to 35 years old) when I have the toilet up, or if it ain't broke don't fix it? depends on your access underneath, since it is probably cemented in and you'll have to cut it out low, then build it back up. If for some reason it is screwed in, then sure! If not, and it doesn't seem brittle, I'd say leave it. LittlePea posted:Keep in mind this is a rental, so I want it to be more comfortable, but at the same time I don't want to spend an arm and a leg. Besides turning my bathroom into a construction zone -- will this run me a lot more than what it costs for a pedestal (I was thinking ~$200)? If it is a rental, I wouldn't gently caress with it. When you put in a pedestal sink, all of the supporting plumbing is exposed, so you want nice supply lines and trap / drains. That all take effort and additional money. You may also have drywall repair, depending on how sloppy the drywall installer was, since he knew there was going to be a cabinet hiding his holes.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:28
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Bank posted:Looks that way: That's true. If you look at the packaging, they will say that they are not to be sold in CA if they have lead in them.
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Aug 8, 2012 21:39
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TouchyMcFeely posted:Question for the Goon Lord Plumbers. Do it the second way, except your wye is upside down in that picture.
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Aug 17, 2012 15:21
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You need either an air gap or a high loop to prevent grey water from going in your dishwasher. Phone posting so I will look for pictures later if this doesn't make sense: Air gap: you've seen these, basically a vent looking piece that sticks out of your sink over the drain side. The dishwasher hose goes in it and then a drain hose goes out of it to your disposal High loop: you take the drain hose from the dishwasher, make a loop in it, secure the top of the loop higher than the disposal (as high as you can really) then attach it to the disposal. This is code allowed almost nowhere but it works. Edit: do either of those instead of tossing your disposal unless you really want a new one. A new one won't solve your problem without doing one of those things.
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Sep 26, 2012 02:17
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After looking at it closer, I am wondering if you had issues with your high loop because it comes in so high into your cabinet, restricting how high you can reasonably turn and secure it. Is it possible to lower it somewhat? If so, you could do something like this: And you obviously don't want to drill a bracket into your granite, and I was in the same boat, so I secured mine to the cabinet corner support. If you can't do that, securing it with a worm clamp or something similar around where I have that black circle might work. Note that the high loop goes on both sides of your drain pipe so you can lock both the ascending and descending portions of the loop. Alternatively, you could probably pay a granite shop to come out and drill the hole for your air gap. Yeah, it will cost, but that's better than dumping grey water into your dishwasher!
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Sep 26, 2012 13:31
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