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Dear plumbing thread, Help. Click here for the full 640x480 image. Main tap in the kitchen, it leaks at the swivel-join bit & the water marks are getting annoying.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Under the same sink, this feeds the outside tap. It leaks at the turney-handle-stem bit, but more than an annoyance - if I want to use the outside tap for 30 minutes the drips will fill a bucket. I want to fix both of these, the thing is I've never taken a tap apart. I can isolate the feed to this section no-problem, On the second one, I'm under the impression the hex collar the tap handle goes through should be unscrewed, then black magic happens. I've even less clue about the first one. What tools will I need, what will I need to buy to fix this? (I assume a bumper box of washers).
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Jun 24, 2009 17:33
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Where is it leaking at on the hose bib outside? If its coming from behind the handle its just needs to tighten the packing nut. If its coming inside the wall the plumber could have screwed a screw into the hose bib and when its on it will leak. Stupid question, what bit does cartridge refer to? kid sinister posted:Advice Have at with tools, take washery bits to hardware store. Gotcha. Will post trip report, godspeed me.
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Jun 25, 2009 18:50
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Sorry i miss understood the question. Can i get a better picture of where the leaks coming from. IF its the valve inside it could just need the packing tightened. Useful site, thanks, now I just have to figure out where to get at it. I think the ends of the taps will have screws under the covers. I can't get a better picture, the first one was a trial'n'error held-off-to-one-side shot, I need to do a bit of work before I can physically get to the tap to work on it.
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Jun 26, 2009 16:36
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Hello again, plumbing megathread. A while ago I asked for advice about 2 leaking taps in my kitchen, and got it. Thanks. Anyway, I've got a few idle days so I thought I'd finally tackle it. (real man of action me) I found the easiest way to tackle the feeder tap under the sink was to take it off, like thus: [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/b9450184c9331ecf21107f6ac146f09d1a8dca8b/P110809_13.51_[02].jpg[/img] I took off the T of the handle, which allowed me to unscrew the first unscrewy bit, but I can't unscrew the main body of the tap, underneath which I believe I'll find all kinds of black magic & washers. Is it worth me swearing & hammering at this or shall I just get a new tap? Also, I've made no headway with the main fancy kitchen tap:  Click here for the full 640x480 image. I believe underneath the end-caps on each handle I'll find screws etc to let me in, but nothing's budging. I feel like I'll break something, am I barking up the wrong tree?
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Aug 11, 2009 14:15
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Replying to myself, as I think I fixed both of them. As I needed water again I cleaned up the brass feeder tap & reassembled it. In doing so I brushed some greasy graphite-like residue out from between the 2 screw-in/out bits, seems that was fouling the seal. If it gives me more trouble I'll replace the whole tap. The chrome one - there's a screw in the back you can't see from easily, (spotted it outside when testing the outside tap) that let me pull the neck of the tap out. Clean & brush up, scrape the deposits away & re-seat the 2 o-rings, back together & everything's good.
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Aug 11, 2009 16:45
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd person just get a new faucet if i were you. IF you're unsure of taking it apart and repairing it, it will be easier to just get a new faucet. No residue, I thought that meant they were good, thanks for the confirmation.
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Aug 12, 2009 14:26
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I'm renovating a house that was empty for 18+ months, the coldwater tank in the attic looks like it has a fleet of dead jellyfish in there so I've stopped using the water until I clean it. The tank isn't too big, looks like 50-75 litres, I know where the shut-off valve to the fill is, how should I approach it? Where should I drain it off from? What would be the right chemical to clean it with? Also, ew ew ew ew, there's a massive dead hornet in the bottom of the tank.
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Dec 13, 2010 23:42
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I honestly don't know about a cold water tank. What state are you in. And why do you have a tank and not hooked up to a well or city water? I'm in the UK, we have a mains water supply that feeds a header tank in the roofspace generally.
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Dec 14, 2010 13:46
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Loose fitting lid, though the same plumber that screwed the rest of the house put a 6" hole in the top for the hotwater overflow to piddle through. I'll stopcock the mains, drai teh cold water out, scoop the gunge & dead hornets out & clean it with some household antibacterial cleaner, then flush it through. If I never post again, it was probably Legionella Pneumophillia.
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Dec 15, 2010 07:00
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I managed to clean out the cold water tank - closed the feed line, eventually located the stupidly positioned drain point, drained the entire tank out into a tupperware dish because it was too drat low, bailed the last few inches of water/gunge out into a bucket, cleaned the tank out with antibacterial bathroom cleaner (plastic tank, made sense to me) rinsed it all down & we're good to go. Bonus finds of the adventure: 1 slowly dissolving European Wasp Sliver of zinc flashing 1/2 dozen copper offcuts 4" steel nail All this in the old womans drinking water...
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Jan 9, 2011 23:21
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British central heating question: the three-position valve on my hot water tank is starting to act up. Its a boss therm bmvp222, will any other manufactures three position 3x22mm valve bolt straight on? Is the wiring standard on these things?
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Apr 13, 2013 21:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I think they are mostly manufacturer specific but I'm honestly not sure. Turns out they are. The plastic gears in the motor head were stripped and I couldn't get another boss therm quickly so I bit the bullet and got a Honeywell. Twice the price but all metal gears with big cats whiskers microswitches. Swapping the valve body over destroyed a pair of pipe wrenches but other than that it went smoothly. Wiring was a direct swap.
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Apr 17, 2013 18:39
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Yeah, if you're draining down the house I'd take the time to put in convenient shutoffs, for tanks, taps etc.
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Apr 24, 2013 21:27
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Another UK central heating system question - how do I bleed air out of the system? I can and have bled the radiators but there's still air audibly coursing through the whole system.
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Apr 25, 2013 18:15
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Tomarse posted:Are you sure you're not missing a radiator when you are bleeding them? Definitely not missing a radiator. It's an older non-combi system that tops itself up via a header tank.
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Apr 28, 2013 22:54
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I'd prefer to do it in the garden than the back of the shop 
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Sep 15, 2013 11:11
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You won't have to change the massive filter as often, also you can run a quieter fan if it's not sucking through the tiny hole.
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Nov 2, 2013 22:45
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I'm trying to fix the "water doesn't flow uphill" issue under my sink and the only correct solution is drilling a new hole in the wall. Believe me, I've bodged this previously and no collection of pvc fittings can fix gravity. I have 40mm push fit waste pipe (which is about 41mm obviously) but I can only see 38 and 52mm core drills at the local DIY stores, what's the dumb thing I'm missing here? Do I drill a 52mm hole and silicone the gap?
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 12:41
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devicenull posted:Are you trying to drill a hole into a pipe? Into the wall. My neighbor has a set of core drills so I didn't have to buy them, used a 52mm.
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Aug 5, 2020 17:08
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Jenkl posted:
There's nothing wrong with this approach, it's not pretty but it's sturdy.
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Dec 9, 2020 09:21
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If there are roots in your pipes cutting them doesn't solve the problem, which is that there's places/breaks in your pipes for roots to get in (and your waste to get out).
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Feb 15, 2021 07:59
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Jaded burnout I don't think you'll have any problems plumbing your bathroom. I'd absolutely find a good word-of-mouth tiler though, knowing how exacting your standards are you won't want to learn on your own house.
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Feb 17, 2021 08:10
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