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I'm not sure if this is a plumbing question, but I don't think it was worth creating it's own thread. Just bought a house, yay me. Has an ugly finished basement, but hey they left the dehumidifier! I had it run for a few days, but I just now noticed that instead of putting the water in the tank inside it, it seems to just dump it on the floor. There is a small nipple valve type thing on the back that I imagine it's leaking from. I can push it in, like it's spring loaded or something but it doesn't seem to do much. When we moved in apparently the tank was full of water, I have no idea what would have happened to it that now it just deposits water on the ground instead of the tank. I took the side cover off last night and the nipple is connected to a tube that runs from under the compressor/coil area to the back. There doesn't seem to be much of an obvious "hey this should be switched or shifted" or whatever. My only guess right now is that the default action for the dehumidifier is to drain through that valve with a hose attached to direct the water flow, but if it's plugged up the hose on the inside will eventually fill up and then it switches to filling the tank. But that's just a guess at this point. Ideas?
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Jul 22, 2009 13:29
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 17:53 |
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Well I found the solution to my dehumidifier issue, so that's good. Next item, which is actually plumbing-related. We have a well, and water pressure sucks on our kitchen faucet. I haven't investigated into the problem at all, but maybe part of the problem was the kitchen was an addition to the home and not part of the original plumbing. Could it just be the supply lines feeding the kitchen are inadequate or it just wasn't planned out very well? The faucet itself is fairly hard to operate as well, as if the water 'lever' was way too tight. Also, I can have the faucet running "full trickle" and use the sprayer and it doesn't cut off the water flow to the faucet, or seemingly effect the pressure at all. Is this odd as well? Pressure otherwise seems to be decent. The sink in our half bath is quite good, and the sink in the main bathroom is pretty good as well. The shower is ok but not great, but we got one of those big shower heads since before we were being sandblasted with the tiny jets on the other shower head. Are there things I can do or check without calling in reinforcements of the paid variety?
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Jul 28, 2009 21:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya there is tons of stuff you can do yourself. What type of water piping is used in your house? Thanks for the reply. I'll look into this and get back to you. Under the sink I believe it's copper pipe. I can take pictures, for the faucet as well. The faucet originally didn't have an aerator on it, so we bought one of the swivel ones. Either way the water pressure has been fairly constant. I'm willing to bet your theory about the angle stops. When the realtor shocked our well (house was vacant for a few months and water came back with coloform bacteria present) it took him forever to get the bleach/chlorine out of the well and eventually ran it "dry". So you're probably right that there is some mud/gunk in the lines. How does one going about doing this? Another problem is that since the kitchen was an addition it's crawlspace only under that, and man do I NOT want to crawl under there 
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Jul 29, 2009 18:03
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Hey guys, had some plumbing done on a new bathroom project a while back, looking to finalize most everything today. When I pressurize the hot water, the shower will turn on even with the lever off (showerhead only, no faucet, it's a moen system if that matters). This is particularly a problem because my shower drain isn't hooked up yet so I can't run upstairs to fiddle with the lever while it pukes all over the basement. I looked at the directions, and there is a notch on the cartridge that need to point down, and it is. Does that mean that the cartidge itself might be installed upside down? I had to remove it to get the shower surround in place, maybe I reinstalled it upside down? Got it There was a rubber gasket on the side of the cartridge that I had forgotten to re-install. Oops! 
dreesemonkey fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Sep 8, 2014 17:40
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Alright I'm got a well water problem, the problem is lack of water. It COULD be our well is dry right at the moment, we've had that happen before (a few hours of conserving water fills the well back up). Evidence to support this: We watered some plants yesterday, filled a bit of our kid's pool (I run in 5 minute increments, I did that probably 5 times over 2 days), and my wife did a bunch of laundry today. Lately our water pressure at our sink especially as been poo poo. I suspected maybe the pressure switch is the problem, so I replaced that today. It filled pretty quickly from 0-25 psi, maybe 45 seconds or so, but after that there was basically nothing. The switch contacts are stuck "on", so in theory the pump should be being called for water. So what I'm doing right now is turning the well pump breaker off for an hour to see if when I turn it back one, there is a substantial jump in water pressure. The well pump was just replaced this year, so I'm hoping that's not the problem. And of course this is the weekend and father's day to boot. I don't know if I could even get ahold of the guy who put our pump in (probably should contact him if the pump needs warranteed, right?) Ahhhhhg, this poo poo sucks 
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Jun 18, 2016 20:35
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Looking for some general advice on PEX. I'm looking to slowly redo our plumbing supply lines with PEX. At the moment I have a slow kitchen sink supply. It's the only fixture that has bad pressure right now and it's gotta be buildup in the lines as the fixture itself is clean. In the next year or two we'll be redoing a bathroom and adding a laundry upstairs so there could be some significant plumbing changes happening soonish. I was planning to get a manifold and slowly add fixtures over time. 1. Is there any real problem with my plan of doing it over time and running partial copper and partial PEX for a while? 2. Do I want a NPT or Compression supply manifold? Example 3. I assume I should get a manifold large enough for all my fixtures planned in the future? I was planning on doing home runs for everything, the exception being icemakers or something, I assume I could just tap into a faucet cold supply for that. It looks like I'd want a 30 port manifold in that case if I add all the stuff I want (Kitchen, Kitchenette, 3 baths, laundry, outside spigots, etc). Basically where should I start?
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Jun 23, 2016 18:43
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kid sinister posted:Hold on a second. You might not need to redo your kitchen. Grab a bucket. Turn off the stop valves under the sink and take the supply lines off. Make sure they're clear, then attach the end back up to the stop valve. Hold the other end in the bucket and turn the valve on. What is the pressure like now? It's possible that something got caught where the water gets restricted down to the smaller size. Like for instance, say your stop valve doesn't shut off the water completely. That's a pretty good indicator that the stem washer broke off and got stuck down the line. Thanks for the reply. I've been meaning to check the pressure at the shutoff valve before the sink, I will try to do that this weekend. So what are the circumstances that I can't use pex? I know that you still need 18" of copper going in/out of your water heater. Just curious what else there is. Eventually, yes. I'd be taking as much copper out of the house as makes sense. I have a well, so that hardline would remain in tact and then pretty much everything after my pressure tank I would be trying to convert over to PEX. NPT or compression doesn't matter to me for the pex manifold, I'd probably be enlisting my sister's boyfriend who has done a lot of copper work before. I was more asking to which is "better", if there is such a thing.
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Jun 24, 2016 12:58
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 17:53 |
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kid sinister posted:Before replacing any copper for PEX, you need to consider how your electrical panel is grounded. One method of grounding electrical panels and the rest of your house is to run a thick grounding wire from your panel and clamp it to your metal cold water pipe. These days due to PEX, that clamp must happen within 6' of where your water enters your house so you can see with your own eyes that it's a complete metal path all the way to the dirt outside, but that distance wasn't the case in the past. So if your panel is grounded to the cold copper pipe past that 6', you will either need to extend that ground wire to within 6' or switch to a different grounding method. Thanks for the info. I'll have to check out my current grounding situation. On the bright side, the well line runs within 10' of my breaker box so any adjustment would be an easy fix. And speaking of easy fixes, I did get the kitchen sink water pressure fixed. I took off the supply lines to the H/C and they were fine. Pressure was good directly at the shutoff valve. On my faucet there is a quick-connect type fitting in the flexible metal hose line, I took that apart and there were tiny bits of sediment in there, I could barely see them. Bingo bango it's now awesome.
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Jun 27, 2016 16:08
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