|
Jaypeeh posted:Hay guys. So I have this super-crusty floor drain in my basement. It's been 100% clogged since I bought the house but I haven't done a lot to fix it so far because it's just super gross and I didn't know where to begin. I finally started trying to get a better understanding about what exactly is going on so I soaked up the small amount of standing water (it rarely has much if any water in it, and I think when it does have water it just evaporates over a few days rather than really draining at all). I then got a skinny piece of metal to try to find any opening, which there doesn't seem to be. There's a pretty hard resistance about 2 inches down the drain. Feels like it's probably rust. I tried somewhat gently tapping into it with the metal stick, it seems like it broke up a little bit of it but I didn't want to go any further for risk of breaking the entire pipe. But what I found really strange was that I noticed several little balls of mercury sitting in the bottom of the drain. Any idea how that could have happened or where it came from? The only time any water really gets to the drain is if I spill something in the laundry room, or sometimes a small amount of water will leak in from the walls if there's a ton of rain. Should I be worried? You could rent a snake and try to snake it. I'd suggest getting it operational because if something happens ( a washing machine hose burst). The floor drain will help with a lot of the damage.
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2017 01:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:21 |
|
|
Jaypeeh posted:yeah I would definitely have to use something high-powered to fully unclog it I think, I'm just worried because whatever has solidified just an inch or two into the drain feels almost rock-hard and there's not even the slightest gap to insert anything into. I think I'd almost have to drill a hole through it just to get it started.. but I fear rust may be the only thing holding the pipe together at that point and the whole thing could just crumble. Sigh, I may just live with it for the time being. Still not sure why the hell there is mercury sloshing around in there though. That solid entity you are hitting. Are you sure its not the bottom of the P-trap in that floor drain?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2017 01:23
|
|
|
Rescue Toaster posted:I'm buying a house that somehow has an indestructible 33 year old natural gas water heater manufactured by State in 1984. Is it even worth having a guy come out and flush/inspect/service it or just plan to immediately replace it? I'd have to know it's 100% working correctly (holding correct temperature, nothing nasty inside) because I've got a mostly decorative immune system. If you plan on putting any money to service it just plan on replacing it. A new gas water heater isn't that expensive either. (unless you have a power vent)
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2017 22:06
|
|
|
borkencode posted:So I just noticed a small trail of rust and wet floor running from my 19 year old water heater to the floor drain, guess it's time to replace it. Get a quote on a install of a tankless but it sounds like you may be SOL for the intake.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2017 14:05
|
|
|
SouthShoreSamurai posted:Ok, I'll return the stuff I just ordered from Amazon and get some real fiberglass insulation. Some don't require it based on their build but it won't hurt if you put a nice bead of caulk in it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2017 01:04
|
|
|
ryde posted:I was trying to fix a wobbly toilet, which seemed like a job that even I (a complete newbie) could DIY with some videos. Unfortunately, I ran into some issues and am not sure how to proceed. A flange repair kit would work but i'd be curious to see the tiled flange. You can always chip a little tile out of the way but if its up to the metal flange ring you are fine. Make sure you use a wax ring with a horn to help with the difference in flange height.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2017 23:23
|
|
|
effika posted:So the water here is awful and I've purchased Pur faucet filter, except it doesn't quite go on all the way: Take the old aerator to the hardware store. And use there guide to test what threads the aerator has. Then get an adapter to solve the problem.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2017 13:49
|
|
|
effika posted:I found what size I need, but it doesn't seem to exist? We have an externally threaded (male) faucet that accepts female aerators. It is 55/64" in size. I can't find anything that is female on one end and male on the other without changing sizes. Am I just using the wrong search terms? I've used Grainger for some odd ball sizes but as state below go for an RO. The filter you are installing now only removes lead and chlorine (its a carban filter) an RO will remove 99.9% of all contaminants.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2017 13:16
|
|
|
PYROxSYCO posted:Hi, I'm not that smart when it comes to fixing a stool. But, I have a problem. The back of the toilet's reservoir has a small black rubber hose that keeps pumping water regardless of the tank's fill line. At one point it started to even overflow. I do not know that the cause is. What may be the problem? Would pictures help? Float could be bad, or it could just be improperly adjusted. Post a picture please.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2017 17:59
|
|
|
Nifty posted:
Most likely if you run back to back combo or Tee you will get suds out of the one not being used. I believe to cut in another tee you need it 8 feet away from a suds producing fixture. Why are you running two machines?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 26, 2017 13:53
|
|
|
Nifty posted:Yeah its a duplex, so two machines. I was reading a general home repair book and came upon this photo. Here are two p traps right above one another on a vent line - how is that different/better than the added tee/p trap I am contemplating? This pictures wrong. You can't plumb like that anymore. Basically they wet vented there entire house where now you have to pull off the main drain line with vent that don't connect back into the drain part of the line. (if that makes sence, but its early ) If you cut in the tee with in 8 ft of the other one you most likely will get suds coming up. Also if its a rental I wouldn't really gently caress with it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2017 13:08
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:I think I have a dumb plumbing question - the house I'm living in has one of those shower drains that you push down on to change the state - push down, it's closed, push down again, it's open. Should twist out at the base but post a picture. Zero VGS posted:Quick question, the water supply pipe for my house seems to be 3/4"... is this enough for a 2-3 unit house? It is currently 2 family (3 baths), but I'm thinking of finishing the basement and making that into another unit. Is it a big deal to have the supply plumbing upgraded if it's coming in through a single pipe through the basement wall? Guess I'm wondering what the total GPM I can expect from an urban area is. GPM is based on pressure and volume (pipe size) But if you want to run another bathroom then you will need 1 inch most likely.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2017 01:24
|
|
|
brugroffil posted:I need to add two supply lines for a humidifier and a freezer ice maker. Both would be tee'd off of existing lines and would use 1/4" copper tubing. I'd like a shutoff valve for each one, too. I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly what sort of fittings I need to assemble to make this happen, though. Use a 1/2 copper tee with a male adapter. Screw on a 1/2 IPS valve and a 1/2 MIPx 1/4 compression
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2017 03:04
|
|
|
DustyNuts posted:My water heater is located in the attic (a dumb loving place for a tank of water to be) and it was leaking so I needed a replacement. I just had to put a new roof on the house, funds were tight, so I shopped around for a bargain and ended up hiring a plumber that offered a crazy low estimate. You get what you pay for, etc. but the water was nice and hot and I had no complaints. To access my attic, you have to use a ladder through the master bedroom closet - I don't go up there often. Now that it's getting cold, I went up there to flip the damper on my aquatherm heating unit, and saw the water heater job for the first time. I'd call him back for that. That is horrible. Minor note the shark bite is pretty bad also.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2017 02:32
|
|
|
Clanpot Shake posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask but it involves water moving through pipes so here goes. I bought a house this summer and now that it's cold we've had the heat on. It's a steam radiator system. This piece in the basement has been spurting water when the heat's going: You may be able to get away with cleaning it but depends on the age and how it was made. Here is a 1/2 air vent on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Taco-Hy-Vent...L70_&dpSrc=srch
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2017 18:50
|
|
|
Hyperlynx posted:How's this thing look, to the trained eye? It's made of "dezincification resistent brass" which sounds pretty good to me. I don't recognize the brand but it looks like its a Australlian brand.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
Seven Round Things posted:Do the bulbs used in residential UV water purifiers emit visible light when on? Or only invisible UV? I thought it was visible. But its been many years since i've dealt with one.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2017 02:43
|
|
|
Messadiah posted:Probably just slides on to the stick and then is held in place with a tiny set screw. Is there a small hole anywhere on the handle that is missing its set screw? He's right on that delta Faucet.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2017 16:28
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:FTFY Unless its an OSY valve. Technically a gate valve and they work great.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2017 15:37
|
|
|
Hashtag Banterzone posted:Any thoughts on this kitchen faucet? Turns out it's really hard figure out which faucets are good. I don't recognise the brand but always check for parts availability. Because it won't matter how nice (or exotic ) your faucet is if you can't get replacement parts for it easily.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2018 14:17
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Why is Pex so good if I have to buy a $60 crimping tool? Where are the savings? I just want to move a washing machine valve 2' over. You can rent the pex tool from home depot usually. Just prefab all your crimps then go rent the cripper and do it all in an hour or two.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 4, 2018 02:38
|
|
|
Most companies will charge to put a camera down becuase the heads are some what fragiile. Most companies will try the snake first.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2018 02:34
|
|
|
The Gardenator posted:How big is your vent coming out of the roof? My main vent stack is slightly bigger than 4 inches on the inside and had several inches of mud blocking the vent. I couldn't clear it with a manual 3/8" snake, I ended up dragging my wheeled machine onto my roof along with a garden hose. What machine do you use for mainlines? My work just bought me a Spartan 300. I am in love with spartan. Before that I was using a k-60 ridigid sectional. I hated it for the most part. It was light weight though.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2018 03:51
|
|
|
The Gardenator posted:Mine is a k-400 ridgid from Home Depot, not nearly as fancy as that k-60 or Spartan 300 you use. Although, I only use it for my home, because I figured it would be about the same to buy this machine as to pay a plumber to clear it. It has been definitely worth it as I am sure a plumber would have charged way over $400 to snake 2 toilets and the main vent stack on a roof. No snow where I live, so the roof is nearly flat where the vent stack is. The 400 is still a decent machine for lighter use. I use a 400 at my last job a lot. Pulled a lot of wipes out of drains with it. Right now I have a k-380 (older version of the 400 i beleive) that ive used on light root clogs and its worked great.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2018 02:23
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Forgive me, Father, for I have sinned. If it works its not stupid.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2018 13:20
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Do you guys use hoses like these where you are? And what they are called if so. Is that to hook up an air gap from a Dishwasher?
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2018 04:40
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-100-ft-IPS-100-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-1100100/205903465 Ya but that Poly pipe isnt allowed for water mains, that is some irrigation bullshit.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2018 01:42
|
|
|
VERTiG0 posted:One out of my outdoor hose spigots has a plastic connector to quickly screw and unscrew hoses, and the whole outer barrel rotates freely. I want to remove it. It leaks like crazy when I turn the valve. I don't know what the hell to call it. Inside the unit is a spring loaded pin that I can pull down, and when I release that it returns up inside the whole thing. There's no obvious way for me to take the whole thing off, unless this is a one-piece thing that includes the valve itself. Here's some photos. I'm pretty sure those are easy to remove. I think its a coiled spring is what holds it onto the threads. You have to grab onto it with a good pair of channel locks and push down while turning.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2018 02:54
|
|
|
VERTiG0 posted:I hope so! I will try this out tomorrow before I start smashing the living gently caress out of it. Thank you to everyone for the advice. Its still a bugger to get off but once you start , it gets easier.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2018 12:01
|
|
|
spog posted:O hey, my time machine works for posts 24hrs in the future: He would really have to goon this up to cause it to leak. The vac breaker is down stream of the water shut off.
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2018 12:29
|
|
|
Boner Wad posted:Speaking of filters and softeners, my city water is super hard. I'd just go with a softener and maybe a carbon filter, D-Ionyzed water would be hard on pipes I'd imagine.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2018 15:07
|
|
|
Boner Wad posted:Oh man, I didn’t realize that deionized water was that bad for pipes. Any Fleck, autotrol softeners are good. Kinetico are over priced i think. Have local dealers give you a quote.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2018 05:29
|
|
|
The Dregs posted:Here is one of the fixtures. Sorry I didn't post this before, I fugured they were pretty standard. It had ridges on it for (I assume) attaching to the handles. But, they're pretty much worn away. The leak is getting worse too! Pretty sure I found the replacement handle on amazon Here
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2018 14:24
|
|
|
wins32767 posted:Look for a bit of advice about how to judge the effectiveness of a plumber. Why can't they just Jet the line and clear it. Unless the fragments are gigantic.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2018 01:27
|
|
|
wins32767 posted:So, to close the loop on this there was a giant metal drain snake shroud (about the size of my hand) in the line. Which is why the jet didn't work.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2018 13:05
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:I now have a working water heater! That's the good news. Thought you said it was a standard water heater. It looks like it's a power vent water heater. Which would explain why the price was higher. And that guy ripped you off. That install looks like garbage.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2018 14:16
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:I figured standard meant opposed to tankless. Its just more poo poo people have to deal with. I was also thinking they were providing the heater but realized you provided it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2018 14:50
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:My sillcock is giving me some problems lately, looking for advice/confirmation of my idea of what's wrong. It all depends on how it was made. But you should be able to pull off the handle and loosen the packing nut to pull out the stem and inspect it. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jul 13, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2018 01:19
|
|
|
Done
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2018 14:16
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:21 |
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Clearly he needs a dieplastic union. Those dissimilar plastics are corroding. Haha I will ask an apprentice to go find one.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2018 14:19
|
|