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Mario posted:I've never wired a pressure switch, but logic dictates that the incoming power should be connected to "line" and the pump wires should be connected to "load". Agreed. Black and white from power to line, then black and white from pump to line side, matching colors. If your terminals really are Line Load Load Line, then it should be black black white white; power, pump, pump, power. code:
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Jun 28, 2009 18:11
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:There is something blocking the little tiny holes to let air in. That is why the flame is burning yellow until you open up the burner door. I haven't ever had to unclog those but i'd try vacuuming out any dust you can in there. Then blowing it out with a compressed air. I have had to open the tiny little holes. Remove the burner assembly, wire brush it, blow it out with compressed air, replace.
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Mar 16, 2010 03:47
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:From how my boss explained it. The holes are in the water heater. Along the walls of the burner door i think Though design can change from water heater. That's possible, but with it burning yellow, now the gas holes have carbon in them so even after the screen is cleaned, the burner needs to be cleaned as well. And a carbon monoxide detector installed somewhere close by.
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Mar 16, 2010 13:30
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chedemefedeme posted:My main curiosity is how much I can reduce operation of the septic aerator without causing some negative effect on treatment considering the tank is not heavily utilized with me living alone. I imagine there is some margin for it not needing to operate 24/7 but I'd love an idea how far I can go with it. Some research would indicate that the air is fairly important. Any timer you put on there should be a reasonably high cycle time. I can see a 50% reduction in usage with a 1-hour on, 1-hour off, but I think it'd probably screw up if it were 12-on, 12-off. Remember that frequent starts kill motors quicker and cause surge currents many times the running current of the motor.
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Apr 1, 2010 13:46
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I am not sure if the saving you will achieve will be lost in the energy it costs to fully reheat the water. I guess you can try and it and tell me what you find. Agreed. There's very little energy savings, but pretty good money savings for heating your water on non-peak power rates.
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Apr 2, 2010 03:57
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For NPT (national pipe taper = black iron pipe) the OD is roughly 3/8" larger than the nominal size. 1/2 pipe = 7/8" OD, 3/4 pipe = 1 1/4" OD. Roughly. It breaks down with pipe sizes over 3" pretty fast, tho.
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May 15, 2010 04:07
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Capt. Rhodes posted:Here's a question: Usually, it's a clog IN the disposal. The dishwasher also drains in above the macerator plate, and that can lead to a lot of grease and stuff clogging the drain. Disposals are designed to break up food, and hot, greasy water from dishwashers just coats the inside of the disposal in sticky filth. Try grinding up a tray or three of ice cubes; that may help. Also, [have someone] snake out the vent, as suds and grease can form some impressive long-lasting foams in the vent stack, preventing any drainage. I did both of these things and it cleared our kitchen sink issues right up, until the motor burned out on the disposal a month later.
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Aug 26, 2010 01:42
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Hmm. That happens to me, and it's because I live in the desert and have plumbing run right behind brick walls. If it's 100F in the brick, it's 100F in the pipe, and the cold comes out 100F until cold water can make it the six feet from ground level to the faucet. Note: It only has to be about 70-75F for the brick to hit 100F surface temps. Insolation, and all.
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Aug 31, 2010 04:50
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:When myth busters talked similar about flushing a ton of toilets during the super bowl. They proved that the water district can handle it. But when he was on a job in 95 or so. (the spokane Arena) he said they did something similar and I forgot the exact results but it hosed up a lot of the piping in the building over it. Now this is hear say and I cant prove his story but I imagine putting an entire system under load like that could gently caress up the water supply piping. When the job I was on did a coordinated test (over radios and all) of the plumbing, we flushed every device in the building, and turned all the sinks on. Something like 90 toilets/urinals and 40 sinks. None of the toilets would reset because the pressure was too low, then the backflow preventer kicked in and turned off the water supply, then turned it back on. The resulting water hammer made a lot of noise, but reset the plumbing just fine.
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Nov 20, 2011 03:25
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:... If you have hot water sitting in the tank , it will lose its heat and its another gallon you will have to pass for you to get hot water at your tap. What's your opinion on recirculating pumps in residential settings? Seems like it'd save energy and water if it's a moderately long way (~85-100') from your hot water heater to your faucet.
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Jan 19, 2012 19:04
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A Fancy Bloke posted:So my water heater sprung a huge leak last week. I figured it'd be easy to replace, but here's the thing. I live in a mobile home, and apparently you may or may not need specific water heaters for those? For electric, you'll only need a special one if one of the ones from Lowe's doesn't fit through the tiny doorway most mobile homes give you for access to the heater. Double-check the amperage on the old and new heaters, make sure the new one will physically fit, and go to town.
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Jan 21, 2013 17:05
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Melraidin posted:I appreciate the suggestion but unfortunately this hasn't helped. The water level is already about 1.5" below the overflow tube. Watching within the tank when the dripping sound is occurring (after liquid's added to the bowl and after flushing) shows no apparent movement. This is how traps work, and it's normal. Some toilets are designed so the water in the trap runs down the side, but some just drip off the edge. You may have cracked something in the toilet if there's water pooling at the base. It's easy to overtighten the tank bolts, or not tighten them symmetrically, causing leaking. Try just pouring water into the bowl until you hear the drip. If you get water pooling, then suspect that there's a crack inside the base somewhere, especially if you're 100% sure you installed the wax ring properly.
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Feb 28, 2013 08:45
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Melraidin posted:Adding water to the bowl causes the dripping noise but no pooling around the base at all. Consider this a non-issue then. The dripping is due to the specific make and model of toilet installed in its specific location. No water = no problem. Unless you are going to forever lose sleep about it, do your best to forget it. The toilet in the hotel I'm in now does this. One of the toilets in my friend's apartment does this. This is just something that some toilets do. To repeat: NO LEAK = NO PROBLEM.
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Mar 6, 2013 08:42
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MH Knights posted:Luckily there is a closet on the other side of the shower and an access panel for the plumbing is already there. I tried searching for push-pull faucets put can not find anything on Home Depot or Amazon. Are they special order items? You might just look at a shower shut-off knob. There's one installed inline here at the hotel. Push the button and the water is 100% off. I've seen roughly equivalent things in half- and quarter-turn versions in Home Depot before. Something like this but not crappy, and the water is 100% off when off.
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Mar 19, 2013 08:05
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Just moved into a late 70s single-wide with plumbing modified by people who had no idea what they're doing. The water pressure starts at what I would consider decent, then fades to a trickle after about 15 seconds or so. Hot and cold both do it, in all fixtures in the house. Should I be looking at adjusting or replacing the pressure regulator? It's a big truncated cone of rust with a rounded-off rusty bolt held in place by a rounded off rusted jam nut. But that's the outside; the inside should be fine, right? If it's not the regulator, where can I look?
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May 27, 2013 19:41
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This sounds like it could be a pressure tank. Are you on a well? Turns out it was a leak in a fitting. It would only drip very slowly at full pressure, but much faster when pressure started to drop, eventually just spraying out. 85-200lbs of water-soaked fiberglass insulation and one huge hot mud puddle later, the leak was found and fixed. All pressures are fine. I'm not a big fan of sharkbite fittings on PEX anymore. I've already had two visibly fail under pressure for no obvious reason, and the whole re-plumbing of this place was done with them. Feels like a time bomb.
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May 28, 2013 23:49
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I only use them if I have to, If you can't turn the water off completely then I use them. Though I've never had one blow off. I wonder if they pushed them on all the way. I always sand and put lube on the pipe or the O rings can leak. The plumbing in this place is approximately what would happen if, for every joint or application, you were to grab a completely random stranger off the street, showed them two ends of pipe, then asked them what they needed to finish. Crazy mix of fittings, pipe types, valve styles, penetration locations, etc. And no straps, of any kind, anywhere, on anything.
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May 29, 2013 13:02
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Dial M for MURDER posted:Yeah sorry, I shouldn't have said air gap. Although I was thinking that it was for the drain and not the dish washer so I was all sorts of confused. Looks like I'll just install one of those vents on each drain. Thanks I had to do this recently. Older mobile home, and when new roof was put on, no penetrations were made. So, no vent stack, anywhere. Every plumbing trap has one of those "vacuum break" things in it. It's apparently legal here; who knows if it actually gets rid of "sewer gas" though.
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Jun 13, 2013 05:35
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TouchyMcFeely posted:Tried that but no dice. I couldn't get a good grip on it since it's recessed into the lid. Any amount of force and the wrench slipped right off. It's a 3/4 5-point. Available from snap-on for about $36 last I looked. Get a piece of 3/4 EMT from a big box and hammer that on, then use the channel locks to spin the nut. You can also get a super-cheap 12-point socket from a dollar store or thrift store and hammer that on there.
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Jun 30, 2013 15:15
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you use shark bites make sure you sand each copper pipe and put some faucet lube on the pipe and the sharkbite fitting's O-Ring. Is faucet lube just vaseline?
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Jul 18, 2013 15:55
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RapturesoftheDeep posted:Well, I haven't tried that, but it's definitely not coming from the water running in the toilet-- I'm not that clueless! If you're really lucky, you've got clay drainage pipes and there's a root going through them. The draino will melt the root mostly and let the water get out of the side of the pipe. Any warm wet spots show up in your yard recently?
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Sep 5, 2013 01:58
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FogHelmut posted:Is it normal for a sewage drain pipe to run in between a wall? Like the pipe itself its up against the drywall on both sides so it barely fits. If you were to hang a picture, for example, you'd pierce the sewage pipe. 3" drain pipes are common, as are 2x4 walls. The O.D. of 3" DWV is 3.5 inches, the same width as a 2x4, so the drywall touches on both sides. If your vent stack goes to 4", then you get a 6" wall, and there's a little bit of wiggle room, but still definitely in range of nails and screws and stuff.
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Sep 18, 2013 00:36
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My parents have an under-sink RO unit for about 25 years now. The whole thing died about 6-7 years ago and had to be replaced, so I'd guess they got roughly 15-20 years out of their first unit. It requires annual maintenance, which is $30 for the prefilter and the resin thingy, and then time to drain the entire system and check/redo the precharge on the expansion tank. If that turns out bad, then the expansion tank needs attention. I think they're on their third or 4th expansion tank; there's a diaphragm inside which can rot or whatever. Once, they got some kind of mold/mildew/algae on the "pure" side that took about $200 in service calls to get cleaned up. Once all the chlorine is out of the water, it can get contaminated with life. The fittings are plastic, and a couple of times moving stuff under the sink cracked a fitting, leading to a leak. That's an annoying thing to wake up to, since you hardly notice the tiny drip when it happens. Now that that's out of the way: I love the things. Theirs had a 3gal tank on it, and I think we only drained it a couple of times. We used it daily for ice, water for the dog, coffee, and drinking in a household of 4. Even when the tank is 100% empty, the unit will still trickle out water, so it's not like you're totally without when the tank is dry.
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Sep 18, 2015 11:32
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Baldrik posted:The tank is 10 years old and is a rental so I can have it switched out. But should I bother? Any ideas on what could be causing this? The sacrificial anode inside your water heater is finally done, so you're electrically dissolving the copper pipe instead of the zinc rod in the tank. That's what the cloudy stuff is. Easiest option: get the water heater replaced for free. Cheaper option: drain the tank, flush it until no more crap comes out, and replace the sacrificial anode. Although, a 10 year old electric tank's electrodes may be on their last legs anyway.
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Jan 1, 2016 01:15
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socketwrencher posted:Any suggestions on how to cover/protect about an 8' section of gas line that's not buried very deep as it approaches the house meter? It's about 20" deep from the street to the meter except for about the last 8 feet, which slopes upward and emerges from the ground at the meter. Can I just bury it in gravel? Build a frame and box it in? It's on the side of the house next to a concrete walkway, so there's no real danger of anyone stepping on it, but I'd like to do something anyway. Running new pipe is problematic because this section runs under a fence and concrete pad. Thanks for any help on this. Dig around it until you're at a section 18" deep, then cover the whole thing in concrete. The correct way is to complain to the utility that their pipe doesn't meet minimum cover requirements and have them run a new piece of pipe that's deep enough, but it's incredibly unlikely that's going to happen without some kind of annoying enforcement agency involvement.
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Jul 14, 2016 11:51
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so loving future posted:I gather you shouldn't put electrical and plumbing in the same space between studs -- but is there anything contraindicated about putting plumbing in the same space as electrical if they are actually on either side of a double-depth wall? Should I put a barrier between them? Or not do it at all? Electrical and plumbing in the same stud bay are fine. If either one leaks, there's a circuit breaker to let you know something's wrong. Don't attach wiring to plumbing pipes, don't attach plumbing pipes to electrical conduit, and try to keep as much separation as possible and you'll be just fine.
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Jul 30, 2016 13:41
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kid sinister posted:With one exception: you can attach your grounding wire to your cold water supply pipe within 6 feet of where it enters your house if it's metal. Don't use plumbing pipes as structural support for electrical wires. e.g. don't zip-tie all your romex to your hot water pipe. OSU_Matthew posted:What about HVAC and electrical? Can those share the same bay so long as the electrical is not inside the ducting? Anything and electrical in the same stud bay is fine as long as you're not using the anything as support for the electrical, and the anything doesn't have any rules prohibiting it. Myself, I'd try to (in general) avoid it, since having more room is always better, and plumbers mucking around in a stud bay after the drywall is on can lead to unhappiness and disaster if there's an electrical conduit nearby. There are some technical rules to the electrical if your anything is going to cause significant amounts of prolonged heat, but that's just affecting the size/type of the wire you have to use, not whether or not putting it there is OK.
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Jul 31, 2016 16:16
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Zhentar posted:Your inspector was correct. 250.50 requires that a buried metallic plumbing grounding electrode be supplemented by a second grounding electrode (in case the buried metallic plumbing gets replaced with buried plastic plumbing). You're only allowed to stop at one grounding rod if you test the impedance and verify that it is below 25 ohms (but that's not actually very easy to test so in practice you just always bury two). Yeah. Basically, you're required to have one ground rod on any new construction, and a service upgrade counts. Now, once that one ground rod is in, it's required to be connected to anything else that could be used as ground: metal pipes in the ground, rebar in your new concrete, etc. A lot of places will say to do two ground rods just to be sure, and so both of those have to be connected together. But that one ground rod is a REQUIREMENT now.
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Aug 4, 2016 11:52
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