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Maniaman posted:We are looking to build a break-room in my computer repair shop and would like to put a kitchen sink in it. However, the drain is on the opposite side of the room we are planning to convert to the break room. The shop is on a concrete slab and the only drain any of us know about is on the opposite side of the building by the existing bathroom. The room is across a hallway from the only drain, so going through an interior wall is out. We would prefer to not have to cut through the slab to run a new line if we don't have to. Does something exist that can pump everything up and run a drain line through the attic and then tie in to the existing drain on the other side of the building? Sure. We've got the same thing going on in our office. I solved it with one of these. It's been in almost a year and its been working great.
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Jun 1, 2011 15:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wow that is pretty impressive that it can pump 19 feet vertical. Yeah..the pump that comes with that kit is a beast. We use the same ones at the local fire department (without the floats) for pumping basements after floods. We've had the same 5 of them through the last 3 floods (plus miscellaneous other events). It's amazing some of the crap they pass through them and keep on going. Each must have at least 200 very hard hours on them at this point and they pump like new.
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Jun 4, 2011 20:13
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With appropriate landscape you'll never see that thing again. You will literally forget about it in a month, as will she. It's just sticking out like a sore thumb because there's nothing else there right now. Moving it isn't going to be cheap, that's for sure. Depending on jurisdiction you'll almost definitely need your gas company involved. I'd rather spend the same money on landscaping to hide it than to be left with a blank wall with two pipes and no landscaping.
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Jun 29, 2013 18:52
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Gray Stormy posted:My wife and I just closed on our first house and I have a project that is a real head scratcher. The upstairs bathroom shower doesn't seem to be getting any hot water. Cool water just dribbles out when the hot is on, but I get full pressure with cold. The sink about six feet away has no issues at all and the rest of the taps in the house work fine too. I hate to ask, but is it turned on? If it was leaking before (which you very well may have fixed with the new cartridge) a realtor or someone may have simply shut it off rather than repairing it properly. If you don't have any accessible shut offs in the bathroom try in the closet that is undoubtedly in the room on the other side of the front of the tub/shower.
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Jul 6, 2013 17:31
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Sounds like you need a new bottom tub seal. This is usually the beginning of the end for a dishwasher. While you can replace it inexpensively, the next thing to go is the door seal, and then everything else.
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Jul 12, 2013 14:30
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TraderStav posted:So I look at my hot-water heater and there isn't a shut-off leaving it. Looking at the manual it appears to be normal. There is a shutoff for the cool water inflow though. I theorize that if I turn that off water will still flow until the tank is emptied unless there is some fluid dynamics I'm not considering where turning that off stops the flow of hot water out of the tank. I'm not sure what you are saying here......but if you shut off the cold water to the water heater the only thing that would empty the tank is gravity. If it's in your basement that's not a concern. TraderStav posted:Here are my options as I see it: If I'm misunderstanding please correct me, but it seems you don't know where the main shut off is for your domestic water. You need to know this. If for some reason you don't have one you need to shut it off at the curb or meter and put one in. Then replace your shutoffs to the dishwasher (yes, both of them - if one is crusty the other one will be soon enough anyway) and replace your dishwasher. That solves all of your problems properly, including potential and likely future problems (which is why I'm saying replace both shutoffs to the dishwasher) and gives you some way of mitigating other plumbing situations before your house gets destroyed (the main shut off). There is no way I'd live in a house without knowing where I can shut off all water coming in. Anyone who has ever dealt with water damage is going to pretty much feel the same way. I find it hard to believe you dont' have a shutoff somewhere. By code in most jurisdictions this has to be very close to where the water comes into the house. You can have other shutoffs along this run for service/to make them more accessible, but there must be at least one near the service entrance. If your basement has been finished without leaving access to this I would suggest you start looking for the water meter for a clue as to where you need to look/start cutting drywall (because even if you don't find one there, that's where it needs to go.
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Jul 13, 2013 04:01
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Bad Munki posted:That reminds me, I've been wondering about this since I bought this house: when you first turn on a faucet, the water pressure is extra high. It quickly settles down to a reasonable level, one I think seems more correct, as that first burst of higher pressure is kind of annoying. It's not extreme, but it's definitely noticeable. It takes a while to build up: usually won't do it during the day when faucets are regularly being turned on, but by morning or in the middle of the night, it happens. I've never had a house that does this, what gives? Are you on city water or do you have a well?
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Jul 19, 2013 21:34
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Bad Munki posted:City. It's a pretty new house, built in 2007. Most times I've seen pressure differences like that it has been city water and it's been due to the actual water supply. You (meaning the city somewhere on the street) probably have a PRV (pressure regulating valve) somewhere that is "lazy", meaning it doesn't regulate down quite as much as it should unless there is a lot of water flowing. So pressure builds on your segment of the main to a slightly higher level than normal during times of low/no demand and you can feel it when you first turn on the water. This seems to happen more frequently in areas that are close to gravity fed sources (like near a water tower). If it's truly excessive pressure you should probably call your municipal authority and tell them this is happening before your faucets start prematurely leaking so they can service or replace the appropriate equipment. The same thing should likely be happening to your closest neighbors if this is a municipal issue. I've seen areas where the city refuses to do anything about it and pretty much everyone has had their own PRVs installed post-meter to control the situation. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jul 20, 2013 |
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Jul 20, 2013 16:16
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Lenins Potato posted:A lot of my jobs are dealing with low pressure/flow on fire systems. Often enough, there isn't enough pressure coming in on the city side to meet the flow tests. The client will go back to the Fire Marshall with the news and usually get a break. But every now and then Fire Marshall will simply tell the client how much that sucks and they'll just need to get a pump house installed. Marshal. One "l". And I'm the guy who does the latter. If you don't have the calculated flow rate your stamped and sealed engineering plans show, why should I pick up the liability that your engineer currently holds on the design by willfully allowing you to install the system out of spec? If the system doesn't actually need that designed flow rate but will work and pass local code on less, have your engineer prove it, document it, and seal it again so it's on his professional liability insurance. The entire purpose of my involvement in this process as a code official is to ensure 1.) the plans meet or exceed code 2.) the system is installed properly and to the designed specs. I get it that it's inconvenient for you and the home/business owner. But it's a fire protection system, not a hot tub or a shower head.
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Sep 23, 2013 15:37
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Lenins Potato posted:This isn't on new installs. This will happen on systems that have been installed decades ago, but there will be a change on the city side. And yeah, I know a lot of sprinkler companies will lie on their yearly inspection reports and you won't know there is an actual problem until a new company comes out. Well, those situations suck and I agree they shouldn't have to pay for a change on the other side of the meter. This is what civil litigation (against the municipal water authority) is for. I don't see how allowing the existing system to stay in an underperforming state is any kind of answer.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:55
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Bad Munki posted:I want to run water out across my yard to some planters I'm putting in. It's about 50 feet from the outside faucet at this time. I typically 3/4" well line. It's cheap and tough. Bad Munki posted:2) How deep do I have to go? Assume I'll blow the line every fall. Doesn't much matter if you're blowing it out (and you should). 12" should be fine. Bad Munki posted:3) What's the best way to tap into the existing line at the house? The basement is only 2/3 in the ground, should I just run another line out next to the existing faucet and have it then dive directly into the ground? I would excavate to the level you are laying the line and go through the basement wall, then to an appropriate pipe and put in a T with a shut off and a 3/4" barbed adapter (or whatever size you're using). Bad Munki posted:4) At the planter end, what's the best way to mount a faucet? I'm thinking drive a 4x4 into the ground as a post and just have a pipe coming up strapped to that post with a faucet on there. You can do that, or you can bury everything below the frost line and put in a yard hydrant (the faucet on a pipe thing). Back fill a bit and then dump a bag or two of quickcrete in the hole, then back fill the rest of the way. But that my be more than you're willing to get into. But you wouldn't need to blow it out in the winter, which is nice. Bad Munki posted:5) Anything I might not have thought of here? I can post pics with lines on them if it helps. Other than going all out and doing it below the frost line, you got it. Just make sure you have a shut off. And get the kind with a bleeder so you can easily attach air to the outside faucet and blow it back into the basement, or adapt air to the bleeder and blow the other way.
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Sep 24, 2013 22:40
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Bad Munki posted:I like not having to blow the faucet each fall, that'd be a far better plan for someone like me. However, I also don't want to tear up my lawn more than I have to. I know I can get a ditch digger that makes a trench 8" deep and 2" wide. It sounds like if I want to go any deeper, I have to go up to 6" wide, which would be a shame. I guess I could also get a sod cutter and peel up the grass first. Yes, cut sod. It's not a big deal. It's also the right time of the year to start some new grass. Also, don't sweat the block wall penetration. Just use some hydraulic cement (I like UGL DryLoc) and it will be just fine.
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Sep 24, 2013 23:49
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Bad Munki posted:so I don't want anything unsightly coming down the wall. Sorry, but if you can still see block it's already unsightly down there.
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Sep 25, 2013 00:01
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sirr0bin posted:I'm going to be adding a powder room into my basement over the weekend and had a question about the workflow. It is a concrete floor. Do you lay the pipe out in the rough shape, break the concrete out, cut/dry fit then tap into the existing sewer line? I am just concerned about the angle coming off the existing line not lining up perfectly, and of course I don't want to break up more floor than I have to. Is your sanitary sewer line below grade level already? Typically in basement powder rooms I see a grinder pump to deal with the lift required.
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Oct 10, 2013 17:03
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In that case, yeah....that's a reasonable way to go about it. But what do you mean by this:sirr0bin posted:I am just concerned about the angle coming off the existing line not lining up perfectly You're going to have to cut the existing line and put a T into it. Make sure you point it in the proper direction........ I must be missing something.
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Oct 10, 2013 19:27
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sirr0bin posted:My question I guess is do people typically cut into the existing line, install the wye and plumb from there or do they install all the piping first and put in the wye last? If you are doing what you are doing, you are at least cementing the T/Wye second to last (the last cemented connection will be from your new run). Yes, you are over thinking this. It sounds like you know how it needs to go. Just think a few steps ahead while you are doing it and you won't screw yourself. And even if you do.....it's just plastic pipe...it's all fixable. You're gonna be fine.
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Oct 11, 2013 01:56
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ManDingo posted:I've got a slow floor drain I was using to drain the A/C condenser and a dehumidifier. I tried to snake through the trap but had a hell of a time making the corner. I would like to go through the clean out but it's horribly rusted and I've given it about half a bottle of liquid wrench and it shows no signs of budging. Any ideas? Heat. (for getting the clean out loose). When penetrating lube doesn't work it's time for the torch. Even a propane torch would be likely to help a whole lot.
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Oct 13, 2013 00:20
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ShadowStalker posted:Yes, PEX can be concreted in. The radiant heating installed in concrete is usually PEX unless they use the electric mat types. You're missing a very important detail: PEX for radiant heat in concrete is not the PEX you typically buy for running potable water. It is PEX with an oxygen barrier. That being said, the question isn't really about that - he just needs a wall pass-through which should be sleeved and not in direct contact with any hydraulic cement or whatever used to patch the wall.
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Oct 13, 2013 03:44
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Bad Munki posted:Is a sleeve like you mention going to be water-tight? Like I said, this is coming through below grade. Well, that's up to you  I'd suggest using something that has an ID only slightly larger than the OD of the PEX and seal it using a butyl rubber sealant on both sides of the sleeve. Seal the sleeve into the wall penetration using hydraulic cement. This is far from the only way that will work for your situation, but it's what I'd be likely to do.
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Oct 13, 2013 04:11
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MH Knights posted:The haz waste page of my local township doesn't mention water softener salt and neither does the company that does garbage collection in my area. Because it's SALT, not nuclear fissile material. Throw it in the trash or put it down the drain (you do realize this is where the salt goes during a regen cycle, right?).
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Oct 15, 2013 22:55
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Cosmik Debris posted:I wasn't aware they even made a type of pex that could handle steam lines, I had only ever seen the regular 180 degree type. Oxygen barrier PEX is still 180 degrees, it's just made for closed loop systems. If his radiators are steam it's a no-go, but some are (or have been converted to) more traditional hydronic heat. The problem there is stil that some of that stuff is run at about 180-185 so you're pushing the design limits of the PEX. Unless you have a long loop you need to run it hot to get enough temperature differential for the small radiating surface to actually heat the room. This is unlikely to be the case with just radiators, but can be with a well designed baseboard setup.
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Oct 28, 2013 15:34
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Indolent Bastard posted:I don't know what drylok is. E: The Behr paint I used is the same stuff Google dryloc. It's hydraulic cement, not paint. Also, do your gutters discharge within 3 or 4 feet of the house? If so, GET THEM FURTHER AWAY. It's amazing how much of a difference this can make in most cases.
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Oct 28, 2013 19:02
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kid sinister posted:We're "hung up on it" because that's the proper way to begin fixing your problem. You can trust us, you're not the first goon with a leaky basement and you won't be the last. Or he can not trust us, spend a bunch of time and money on hydraulic cement wich will work for a while and then the basement wall will start cracking because there's too much static water pressure outside that's not being relieved because of the lack of a sump pit and constant soaking from the gutters. But, hey....what do we know?
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Oct 29, 2013 18:14
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Indolent Bastard posted:I honestly have no idea how I could correct the grade of the yard without just making a berm near the house to divert the water, and that isn't happening. By machine grading. A tracked bobcat will do it, followed by hand raking and replanting grass. Also, "berms near the house" are typically called "landscape beds" and are often used for more than just looks. Also, if you are putting that much hydraulic pressure on a wall (an entire yard draining into it) slathering it with hydraulic cement is the best way to end up cracking it inside of a couple years. Then you have water AND structural issues to deal with. So don't do that. You need to correct the grading.
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Oct 29, 2013 20:26
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So, as previously suspected and stated your downspouts aren't properly directed. In addition you seem to have a gigantic problem on the east side, likely over your property line (if that yellow tape is the line). So again......1.) downspouts 2.) grading. I'm not sure why you think the downspouts are OK or at least 6 feet away from the foundation. Just as a random sampling, the "west side" one doesn't even make it to the driveway. It's spilling into dirt up against the foundation. The others all have similar issues. Just because the one on the northeast corner goes under a fence across your property line doesn't mean the water isn't making it's way back. It's water: not a stray dog you don't want getting into your back yard. I'm not saying it will be simple to correct as your lot is microscopic, but all of it can be corrected with proper trenching, redirection and primarily grading. You're really being screwed by whatever the hell is going on in that canker sore of a lot next to you. If all yo'ure interested in is a quick fix there isn't one. But plenty of companies and contractors will be happy to take your money to try. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 01:20
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Farside posted:Guy at work asked me if I know what this fitting is. I've never seen one, but thats not saying much since I'm not a plumber and have only worked on my property. The A line goes to cold water. It's called a "toilet tempering valve" and is nothing more than a mixing valve for adding some hot water to the toilet to prevent the tank and bowl from sweating in the summer. You don't see those too much anymore as most people have central AC so that type of sweating is not really an issue because the air is being dehumidified and isn't enough of a temperature difference to sweat anyway. But if you did need it you simply adjust the thing until the water coming out has enough hot mixed in to make your cold water room temperature.
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Nov 4, 2013 16:33
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Cup of Hemlock posted:Every so often - once, maybe twice a day (and more if we're running water for dishes, laundry, etc.) - our water heater makes a click noise followed by a loud rumbling above it. Those clicks are fairly common, I think, and I've read that the rumbling is caused by steam produced by sediment buildup in the tank. What I'm wondering is whether the rumbling is dangerous. It seems that it's gotten worse (slightly longer and definitely louder) over the past month or so. When is the last time you flushed it? It's a simple as opening up the bottom drain and letting the crap run out. You should be doing this on a regular basis (as least annually, if not twice annually). If you don't do this, everything in the tank gets nasty. Your heating elements may just be that far gone (in a typical water heater they are also sacrificial anodes). So how long as that heater been there and when is the last time anything was done to it, if ever?
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Nov 7, 2013 04:07
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If you don't know how to solder pipe, a sharkbite is better than you trying to learn while in a wall.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:01
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FISHMANPET posted:So I'm sure the answer is no, but does there exist a water heater I can attach to my showerhead to heat the water as it comes of the shower? My apartment doesn't seem to have enough hot water during the winter so I'm frequently left with the choice of not warm enough shower or just going without for the day. And since it's apartment I can't install a tankless water heater thing for the shower. Absolutely. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHOWER-HEAD-INSTANT-HOT-WATER-HEATER-ELECTRIC-120V-/300630039919 I've seen them in other countries, and they look terrifying.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:56
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm sure for $34 that will be safe and UL listed. I have to wonder if it's even possible to get one of them UL listed at any price.
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Dec 10, 2013 19:18
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slap me silly posted:run a 60 amp circuit directly to his showerhead. A phrase that should never need to be used, ever.
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Dec 11, 2013 21:14
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Sounds like cheap (thin wall) or otherwise defective tubing was used. Or it was installed/handled improperly. Or your water pressure is too high for the system design. You'll have to decide when you draw the line between playing whack-a-mole with leaks and just replacing the whole thing. The tubing is inexpensive, but those connectors (the good ones) add up quick.
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Jan 14, 2014 21:40
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Bell hangers?
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Jan 24, 2014 22:00
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kid sinister posted:That being said, you'll honestly have that condensation problem during the winter with any water storage device holding cold water. I think you mean in the summer. At least that's when it's worst if you live in a high humidity area and don't AC the crap out of your house. For that situation they make a "toilet mixing valve" that add a bit of hot water to the mix so what ends up in the bowl is closer to room temp (and therefore won't make the porcelain "sweat").
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Jan 31, 2014 17:19
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Jadunk posted:Depends, I have seen it happen during both. Sometimes people will keep their house heated to 75-80 in the winter Ahhh...yeah, that would do it too.
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Feb 2, 2014 04:23
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Cold on a Cob posted:Because of all of these factors, he's recommending that we look at replacing the drainpipes with longer pvc segments to help prevent further root encroachment. Based on what I saw I'm inclined to agree but if you folks have an opinion I'd love to hear it since this will probably cost a few thousand at minimum. That's the right way to solve this problem for good (or at least a whole lot of years - nothing is forever, and your existing pipe is proof of that).
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Feb 23, 2014 17:49
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My guest bedroom shower has a leak on the knob for cold. It drips out behind the knob when the water is on and for a minute or two afterwards. I assume there is something copper back there because it is leaving a bluish/green trail where the water drips. I know basics as far as plumbing goes but this is a new one for me. Where should I start? Identify the make/model of faucet (or take a picture and to a hardware store) and figure out if you can get replacement parts. You may need to disassemble it and bring in what's left of the parts to match things up if it's old or uncommon.
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Feb 24, 2014 02:00
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WeaselWeaz posted:So this is what I have. Each 6 x 10 register has adjustable fins. Except for being old, filthy, and peeling they seem better than what's on the market now. You can still get stuff like that. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TruAire-H210VM-10-in-x-6-in-Adjustable-1-Way-Wall-Ceiling-Register-/281049546972
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Mar 1, 2014 00:10
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Sagebrush posted:I was able to adjust the temperature and finally I have my excessively hot shower. Hooray! That's the water heater actually heating water. It goes away when you turn it back to the original setpoint because the tank is already full of water at or above that temperature. If you set it higher and wait however long it takes to achieve the new temperature the noise will stop as the heater will turn off. Depending on how noisy it is you may have sediment buildup that needs to be dealt with.
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Mar 7, 2014 17:00
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 05:20 |
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Have you tried using a socket yet? It doesn't need to be square. It just need to be the correct size.
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Mar 10, 2014 18:24
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