|
You could replace the vertical sink drain pipe right above the sink p-trap with one that has an attachment for the dishwasher hose. It's a very common part and is angled so that nothing will come back up.
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2009 18:02
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 7, 2024 02:34 |
|
|
My In-Laws have an old decrepit bathroom and I'm planning to gut it and replace the tub/toilet/vanity. It's such an old building that I'm assuming I'll run into a bit of mold as I can see slight bits of it creeping behind the shower tile and the floor. I've done my share of home plumbing, replaced a few sinks and rerouted some ABS and water lines before. I've never sweated copper or done too much with old lines though. Here is my plan, please let me know if I'm missing anything: FYI, I plan on replacing the lame shallow tub with a 3 piece shower/bench w/o tub. I've seen a few of these at home depot where the pan/seat/drain is one piece, then the walls are another piece and maybe a ceiling unit as well, but I might just go for walls+shower pan. I believe I need to cut/install my own sliding door system as well. Something like this: http://www.handicap-showers.net/accessibility_images/ADA%20Shower%20Stall.jpg Gut room: Rip out all drywall that looks suspect and may have mold (wearing a breathing mask of course) Rip out vanity which I shouldn't have a problem with as I've replaced this sink and drain lines before. Rip out old what looks like enamled iron tub. I've never ripped out a tub before and I'm hoping I don't find too many surprises. Install: Install lower tub (I will likely have to reroute some plumbing as the current tub has a faucet for the tub and a line for the shower. I likely need to cut out the tub faucet line and replace it with some pass-through copper for the shower line only. I assume I'll also need to cut in a space for the valve to turn on/off the shower. I've read that I may need to do some work with the floor to properly support the base of the unit. Any tips on this? Replace drywall (I plan to install the mold resistant drywall. I won't need cement board as I am not tiling, the shower walls will all be one piece, possibly one piece for each wall panel. Do I need to mud/do anything with the seams or corners before putting up the shower wall panels? Still need corner tape? Install shower panels on 3 walls, should be straight forward as long as I plumbed the faucet and valve assembly right. Any tips on sealing the joins? Mud, tape, paint exposed drywall in rest of bathroom Paint walls Install new floor tile and edging tile for shower. This should be easy as right now the floor is stuck with cheap vinyl tiles. Is it an issue if I go right over these? I know there's also a sheet of lino under the vinyl tiles too. I'm sure the bathroom door won't need to be shaved for clearance, but should I shave it down anyways for ventilation spacing? Install new baseboard Install new toilet. Is it an issue if the drain isn't flush with the floor now? The tile will bring the floor up maybe 1/2 inch. Install vanity Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2010 19:38
|
|
|
I am planning my basement framing layout and have a question about drain plumbing around a corner. Is there a recommended way to route a drain for a bathroom sink if I want to have the drainpipe curve through two 90 degree corners in 2x4 framing? I can't see how this could be done if I am doing a butt-joint type of connection for the wall corners. Another question. I am planning for a steam/jet shower in the basement and I need more hot water to run it. My house has a 40 gallon tank that lasts maybe 20-25 minutes on a single basic low flow showerhead and I'm sure it will maybe last 10 minutes with the new shower setup I have planned. What would you recommend for more hot water? A second tank to run in tandem? Replace the (3 year old) tank with a much bigger one (how big?)? Instant hot water system? (Issues with really hard water / a lot of calcium?)
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2010 17:04
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This depend are you trying to turn 180 degrees or 90 degree in different directions? Whats usually done in corners like this is notching those 2x4's so you can slide the already glued fitting into it. Also I'd bring the drain close enough that you can still still vent it properly. A regular 1-1/2 inch dirty arm can run upto 3' 6'' before you'd have to move the vent closer to make it work properly. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:To properly run that shower you would need a boiler with an attached water maker. Now since that is not an option. I would skip the idea of a steam jet shower. Do you know the gpm rating on each head for that shower? An average shower head is around 2 gallons per minute. Lets say with 4 heads that were 2 gpm a piece. You would get a 5 minute shower. You can get a little more water out of that tank if you turn up the temp that the water is heated too and throw in a mixing valve. Steam may not happen, but I was definitely thinking in the 8-10 gpm range for the jets and shower. What is the biggest water heater tank I could put in that would fit in a residential basement? Are there any downsides besides going to a giant tank besides initial cost? I am definitely shying away from instant heat as I am not a big fan of ongoing maintenance/flushing or buying a water softener. Heck the space I save going instant would be taken up by the softener anyways. Are there any downsides to dual tanks aside from wasted space? I don't think I want an electric instant heater for that bathroom, again the maintenance issue and softener would be a problem. I also heard venting for gas instant water can be a pain as well.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2010 19:03
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you up the dirty arm to 2 inch you can go 5 ft from the vent. Thanks, I'm nixing the idea of a jet shower now, it's just added cost for little benefit. I may just replace the water heater with an 80 gallon. Are there any issues with upgrading to an 80 from a 40? I have a question about my shower drain though. I plan to reroute the rough-in shower drain they put in. Right now it's all roughed in as shown in the pic with concrete poured and finished. I plan to break up the concrete and move the current shower drain to the otherside of the main drain line. In the pic, the current line is circled and I would like to change it to where I drew in green. The line in green will be a little longer than the current line as I need a bit more distance from the toilet line. Are there any code issues with changing this shower drain? Should i remove the shower line entirely or can I get away with leaving it capped off under the floor? I'm not scared to break up concrete and glue in new abs pipe, but I just want to make sure it passes code.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2010 03:20
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The flu size should be the lame depending on the BTU difference. You may need to redo some of the gas piping to accommodate the larger BTU demand. If you could please, I'm having a little trouble understanding how best to tie in a new vent to the new line? Also once I create a new vent, is it ok to tie into the existing vent that runs off the sink line. I would likely run the new vent up the perimeter wall and connect it within the ceiling of the basement bathroom.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2010 14:38
|
|
|
Also, if I tie into the main drain where it's white, it that still ABS? or is it PVC? If I tie into that, what is the best way to connect ABS and PVC?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2010 14:40
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Grade all pipe at 1/4 inch per foot. Unless grade is limited then do minimum of 1/8th per foot. Thanks! Right now the shower line is capped off already within a hole in the concrete. It looks like they boxed in the shower line, poured the floor, and then removed the box to keep the shower line accessible for a p-trap. Anyways it's capped with a plastic cap and I intend to just cover that area with laundry cabinets. That would be fine right? or would I need to abs glue a permanent cap before I put the cabinets over? I'm a little confused about the extra wye for the shower. I get that I need the wye on the line between the shower drain and the main line wye. I also get that the vent will be a 1.5" line rather than the 2" drain for the shower itself. I also see how you laid out the vent line to veer off from the shower drain and then run parallel to the shower drain until it hits the wall. But it sounds like you're describing another bend or wye in there somewhere? I understand I want the vent line on a higher grade than the shower right? Also can abs line be run within steel studs without a grommet? It's already studded on the perimeter wall and would just plan to connect the vents somewhere at head level within the wall framing vs. the joists. I also plan to cut the pvc portion of the main line to put in the wye, I intend to put in a pvc wye and then use abs for the rest of the shower drain lines, is that right? I am also assuming the 'bands' you're talking about are those coupler pieces I see? I'm not sure of all the terms, but this would be my second diy drainage job where the last thing I did was install a new kitchen and drain system under the sink.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2010 18:57
|
|
|
Thanks again for your help! The wife and I are thinking of changing the plan a bit. Instead of running a new line for the shower, we were thinking of taking both the existing lines for the shower and toilet stack and shifting them both over about 12" to the left of that photo. No additional lines, no wye's etc. Just taking those two pre-existing drains, cracking open the floor and offsetting the placement of each drain. Is this something that's easily doable under code? I am thinking of maybe opening the floor and adding a slight bend in the line, maybe 45 degrees. Are there any issues with the toilet stack having a bend in it like that or the shower line? I'm not sure as the toilet stack is running in a straight line all the way out of the property. Thanks
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2010 01:22
|
|
|
I can't quite tell with my pictures, but would a toilet stack like that be vented directly, or would it utilize the vents coming off the rest of the drainage lines for the home? My picture is fuzzy and I can't quite tell if the toilet stack is connected with a wye within 12" of hitting the ground level run. I'm primarily concerned if there is a wye there that it may limit my options for installing a 'street' 45d bend and having proper venting. Also is it common to have to deal with rebar when I rip up the floor?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2010 19:47
|
|
|
Thanks, Also, for the laundry machine which is on its own stack/vent right now (upper right of my picture), what is the best way to reroute this drain line for both a small laundry sink and the washing machine? All I have right now is the washing machine flexible drain hose which is maybe 1"OD sitting in that long drain line as shown in the pic.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2010 21:51
|
|
|
That picture makes sense. I see a vent for the washing machine right before the wye that connects the drain for the sink, that's a necessary vent right and they can't share the same exact vent line until above? Also is that layout correct as far as the two p-traps and height? Are there any issues that I should be concerned with, or just that the upper vent connection is higher than the highest drain?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2010 03:29
|
|
|
Thanks again! I've finally broken the concrete up and am about to install my new 2" line but I have a question about the P-trap configuration at the shower. I found the main 4" drain line in the floor pretty much where I expected it, and by my estimation the highest point of the 4" pvc pipe is about 4" below the solid concrete layer. Now I know I need approx 1/4" slope for every foot of pipe I run and it's about an 8' run to the shower so I'm looking at 2" of rise from the shower to the 4" wye. At this point I'm wondering which way to configure the p-trap to ensure I have slope and I'm below concrete. By my calculations, since the 2" part of the 4x4x2 wye is slightly lower than the top of the 4" line, I have approx 5" of space at the wye from the main stack to the lower concrete level. If the 2" line runs up 2" in the 8' run, then my 2" shower line should be 3" below the concrete when it finally reaches the shower right? Now since the clearance is low, I'm wondering if it's possible to configure the p-trap so that the shower is a straight vertical drop into the U part of the trap, then the trap rises to a 90" bend and that same 90" bend then travels horizontally on the slope to the main 4x4x2 wye. (Of course vented along the way). Is this possible? Or do I need another two 90" bends to give the water level a slight drop before the horizontal run? The attached pic has both examples.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2010 04:52
|
|
|
Thanks, Actually the top pic is ideal for me as the horizontal run will begin at a higher elevation in relation to the downstream 4x4x2 wye. It will be easy to bury the lower section of the p-trap in sand and I just wanted to ensure I would have good flow as I wasn't sure I would considering the horizontal run. My other question may be more local code related, but I just measured the horizontal run and it's just about 8.5 feet from the p-trap to the wye. Are there any issues if I grade the horizontal run slightly more than 2" like 2 1/4" instead? Or would 2" be the maximum? What is a good way to measure the slope over the run? I was thinking of using a 4 foot level and measuring the offset every 4 feet from the next highest point, and if the offset is 1" per 4' when I should be fine right?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2010 13:54
|
|
|
Are there any issues with two vent stacks connecting (above the highest fixture of course) really close to each other? Since I needed a cleanout when my new shower vent comes up from the floor, the best position to come out of the floor was right beside the current vent stack that it's going to connect to, within 1". My plan is to run the vent up about 6' and then connect them with a 90 bend on the new line into a T on the vent line. Are there any issues with this? What if the connection sort of pushes the stacks away from each other since the connections seem to stick out about 1" or more per line. If the lines are too close to connect, my other thought was to install a slight bend in the vent stack with a 45, then a T(which joins the new vent to the current), then a 45 to return the vent to its original position after the connection was made.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2010 15:00
|
|
|
I just had my new shower line with the tie into the 3" main as well as the 1.5" vent off the shower and I passed! Thanks again for the help. Time to fill it with sand tonight and concrete over top, any tips for mixing and pouring out the concrete? I was planning for a smooth consistency so the concrete fills a lot of the gaps under the floor where I broke it. Most of the area where I sledged the concrete would break a few inches underneath the existing floor creating a ledge effect for most of my trench. I would like to ensure the concrete fills in nicely of course.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2010 23:45
|
|
|
I'm having a plumber/gasfitter install a tankless water heater in two days. Is there anything I should look for while I'm here watching them do their work? It's a 180,000 btu unit which they're going to run a new 1" gas line for as my current line is maxed as it is. I am supplying the venting which is 3/5" concentric stainless steel. The water lines at the current tank are wiersbo pex. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2010 08:40
|
|
|
Yeah I won't be breathing down his neck, but I will be framing my basement while he works down there. Do you think it will matter that I don't have a dedicated 120v outlet nearby yet? I'll be installing one when I get started on electrical, but for now I plan to run an extension to the nearby outlet that powers the front-loader washing machine. One thing I have a question about is the venting. I purchased the stainless steel venting and I noticed the horizontal termination that vents out the side of my home is just a pipe within a pipe sticking out of the wall, like this =- When the vent is installed, would the pipe also have a cover or turn downwards or anything, or is a straight horizontal set of pipes sticking out of the wall a normal thing? I also intend to preinstall a packing 1/2" plywood sheet to the wall where he installs the unit, anything I should be aware of there? The unit doesn't come with valves to service and flush the unit, so I'll ask him to install that for sure.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2010 21:54
|
|
|
Thanks. It's an exhaust and intake with a 3" exhaust pipe within a 5" intake pipe. I just found out that to meet code I can't have the exhaust shooting straight out at the property line, but they would pass me if I add a 90 elbow to the 3" exhaust portion and point it away from the property line. Any issues with this?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2010 00:03
|
|
|
Thanks Rd Rash! I have another question about the flapper thing in my toilet. I just replaced the flapper a few months ago from some cheap china blue plastic thing that warped and wouldn't seat properly with a new $8 USAŽ made one and now that it's really cold out (-20C), the water in the toilet tank is so cold I notice the flapped doesn't always drop down to seat unless we jiggle the handle. I believe the ice cold water in the toilet tank has contracted the plastic on the hinges a bit and making the whole thing a bit tight. What is a good solution to having the flapper fall down and seat better? I was thinking of putting some kind of permanent weight on the flapper that won't be able to fall in and clog the drain. Also the chain for the flapper seems like a decent length for opening and allowing the flapper to close as well.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2010 21:04
|
|
|
I forgot to ask. I have a tankless unit that runs at 180,000 BTU for my small 3 washroom house. I have it set at 140F right now and there is a mixing valve that mixes the output of the tankless with cold water to balance pressure or something. I was wondering which is more efficient or useful, I know I don't need full 140F water as it's definitely hotter than I needed with the previous water tank, but should I just adjust the mixing valve and leave it at 140, or lower the tankless unit and close the cold side of the mix out? Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2010 22:42
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I've never had that problem. What brand did you use? It sounds like if you install a better flapper it shouldnt have this problem. Also does the chain have some slack in it. You never want them tight between the flapper and lever. The chain has slack for sure. But I figured by buying the fanciest red rubber flapper that I wouldn't have issues. Granted this one never seems to warp, but it's annoying how slow it is to shut in ice cold water. I could buy another one I suppose, but then I would be admitting defeat and my wife would also be annoyed that I spent $$ on the high grade flapper which turns out to suck compared to the $5 one she said I should buy. EDIT This is the one I bought. http://www.drillspot.com/products/353185/Fluidmaster_Inc_501_Red_Toilet_Flapper
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2010 22:44
|
|
|
iForge posted:If you have a drill bit that is a teeny tiny bit larger than the existing hole, you can enlarge the hole for the hinge a bit to allow it to pivot better. Could be that you got a slightly defective one. I never thought of that! Yes I'll try it tomorrow, thanks! Also Rd Rash, any help on my question above about the mixing valve?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2010 07:49
|
|
|
A question about adding line, thanks Rd Rash! I have all the mini wiresbo pex manifolds all around my basement which split off the main 3/4" lines from my main to other 1/2" lines throughout the house. The builder left me with one free cold 1/2" and one free hot 1/2" line off these manifolds for basement development. Since I'm putting in a full bathroom I need 3x cold lines and 2x hot lines. What would be the most efficient way to split off my lines? Would I cut into the 3/4" and put new 1/2" manifolds in? Can I add 1/2" manifolds to my 1/2" stubs left behind or would pressure/flow be adversely affected? FYI the 3/4" and 1/2" stubs are all close to each other and about the same distance to the new bathroom. As well that the new bathroom is approximately 6ft across the ceiling from the 1/2" stubs they left for me.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2010 17:36
|
|
|
Back to more plumbing work on the basement! I'm planning to rent the pex expander tool this weekend and finish up the rough-in for my full bathroom. Any tips on performing the rough-in? Right now the builder left me with 2 1/2" hot stubs off these mini-plastic manifolds in the joist-space and 1 1/2" cold stub. I need to add 2 more 1/2" cold stubs for the additional toilet and sink lines. I was intending to tap into the 3/4" line with a new manifold, any tips before I tap in or what to buy? Since I'll be tapping into the main, I plan to shut the house water off and then try to bleed off the pressure through turning on the kitchen taps upstairs, would this be a wise choice? Would it be smarter to bleed off through the washing machine line in the basement? For the toilet line, I plan to run a 1/2" cold line down the warm side of a wall space and then put a 90 degree pex elbow on and have a small stub of pex sticking out of the wall horizontally. What kind of fitting should I buy so I can close off the Pex and have a valve there ready to accept a standard toilet braided line? Same question, what would you recommend I do for closing off the pex stubs for the shower valve body? I have the rough-in valve body on order and it accepts 1/2" copper sweat joints, but I plan to attach those later and have the pex running to the shower wall-space and closed off with some kind of valve. This valve would likely be a temporary install and then I would transition to copper about 12" from the valve body once it arrives. The key is that I don't plan to rent the pex expander again and I need to be done with all pex work this weekend. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2011 15:34
|
|
|
Thanks! Actually it is a Wirsbo expander. My whole house is done with Wirsbo so I figure it would be easier to rent the tool (at a plumbing suppply shop) for $25 and run with the same system throughout. I also intended to go with manifolds because my 3/4" trunk is only about 6' from the bathroom and extending the 3/4" would mean buying some 3/4" pipe I may not need to save a few feet of 1/2". I forgot to mention though, I actually am running a tankless 200k btu unit instead of a tank. I was planning to shut down the power to the tankless unit and then cut off the house main supply. Would I also want to shut out the tankless unit via the isolation valves that are installed to it? Also should I buy 90 angle pieces for the pex turns in a 2x4 wall? I see that 1/2" pex seems to bend fairly easily but I'm worried about the flex in the line within the wall and possibly leaning up against the other side of drywall (which could get nails or something down the road).
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2011 17:35
|
|
|
Thanks again! So I opted not to go with Wirsbo because they only sell the tubing in 300' lengths and I only need 120'. I went with sharkbite transitions from Wirsbo to crimp pex and I have some questions. So I'll be water testing everything tonight, but I was wondering about my crimp joints. I have some crimp joints that aren't totally straight when they got crimped and now they're crimped at a slight angle. Let's say they water test ok, do you think they could be an issue down the road? If I seal everything up and I get leaks in 3 months I'd be worried of course. Also for copper at my shower valve, I did my first time solder work and it's kind of ugly, but seems sealed. I used plenty of flux and they are kind of lumpy joints, but if they water test ok, even if some parts are black and rough looking, do you think they could break up in time? Also for the showerhead chrome nipple, since it doesn't screw all the way into the fitting, I assume teflon tape and tighten to the correct angle owuld be suffice? Or would I want to use putty? or something else?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2011 20:12
|
|
|
Awesome, you saved me $80 in sharkbites! The crimp went well and I tied in to the Pex-A fine, no leaks so far! I'll check in the morning and see how it goes. There was one crimp that didn't turn out, I got lazy and didn't cut the pex on a good angle in a tight spot, attached the coupling and crimped it to my new hot shower line. Well it's crimped, but the crimp ring is literally at the edge of the burr fitting so the ring is just over 1/4, maybe close to 3/8 away from the inside of the fitting. It's dry and running, any thoughts? Thanks
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2011 06:48
|
|
|
Yeah I held up another fitting and the ring is still over 100% of the end of the fitting, right at the edge of the barb. The morning after and everything is still tight and dry! I was wondering if you could do me a huge favour? I have this valve for my shower kit: http://www.deltafaucet.ca/bath/details/R18222-XO.html There are some installation instructions and spec sheets in PDF on that page for the R18222 XO valve that I bought, but it's not entirely clear as to what depth I install the valve in regards to the finished wall before I install the cartridges etc. It does mention the wall, but it's not really clear. I'm paranoid I'll install it and it'll be a big issue after I'm done tiling.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2011 20:30
|
|
|
So the black plaster guard would be flush with the front of the finished wall?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2011 05:30
|
|
|
The wall is a 2x4 wall and I'm putting in 1/2" drywall, then a waterproof schluter kerdi membrane set in thinset, then some 3/8" tile over thinset. I'm thinking that the wall including drywall thickness will be about 1-1/8" thick.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2011 17:31
|
|
|
Cool, so you mean the further out sticking part of the plastic piece touching the outermost part of the drywall?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2011 22:43
|
|
|
I have an odd situation. This is a fairly new house, all Wirsbo Pex and new Moen shower faucets upstairs and roughtly 30-60 minutes after having a shower there is a strange mechanical sounding noise as if something is falling inside the walls behind the shower area. It's like a clanky banging sound and it's always 30-60 minutes after having a shower. Would this have anything to do with the shower/bathtub diverter or something? Is it normal?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2011 16:31
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 7, 2024 02:34 |
|
|
Hey Rd Rash, I was asking for your help about a year ago or so on building out my shower plumbing extension and vent stack, I'd like to thank you for your help and you can see the finished product here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3476958
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2012 20:21
|
|