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Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
In my toolbox, I have a solid cap that would replace that slip knot. Don't remember where I got it from, definitely not home Depot. It would be perfect for you, but if you don't have time, stretch some plastic over the threads and use an existing slip nut to keep it down. The service plugs are usually sized to the pipe, and if you're not cutting existing pvc, would not help you much.

Edit:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Everflo...AkaAkGqEALw_wcB

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Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
It would be very easy to remove, the black plastic part is what's going to get replaced, you just undo the brass on both hands, no need to change or to even turn anything else. Just make sure not to over tighten during reinstallation.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

PageMaster posted:

Or looks low I also need some rubber o-ring gaskets which I DO understand and is easy, but probably anewbie question. Good right is overnighting? It's our just sitting you know by feel eventually?

I imagine the new part should come with all necessary gaskets.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Make two separate p-traps into 1.5" main PVC that ends with an air admittance valve higher than the sink. Whatever your issue is, it's going to fix it.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
You can just put a half inch plug in there and use nothing but shower until the proper renovation or repairs are done. Cover the hole with watertight aluminum tape or something. Just clean all the soap scum from the tiles first

As for the new plumbing setup, I recommend a single hand diverter with built-in shut offs right on the body, since you don't seem to have other access.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Morpheus posted:

Every now and then when using water in certain parts of a recently-purchased house (built 1989, but has been worked on since), I hear a steady tapping noise that sounds like a drop falling onto something - like, when using my guest bathroom on the second floor, I hear this tap/drop noise coming from the wall between the first floor bathroom and washing machine room (directly below). It starts off happening every few seconds, then slows down over the course of a minute or so before stopping. I haven't noticed any water damage or discoloration or anything like that. Any idea what could be causing that, and is it something I should be worried about?
The next step is to identify whether that drip is limited to water flow or drainage. Start filling a bathtub without letting the water drain and see if the sound persist. If you hear nothing, turn off the water, drain the tub and start listening again. Repeat throughout the house with different fixtures.

There are two possibilities is that one, you have a leak on either supply or drain side. Or you might have a poorly sloped drain somewhere that allows water to accumulate inside the pipe, probably in the newly renovated bathroom floor/wall.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap one side of the valve in the appropriate direction. Your chances of breaking that handle are slightly higher than using the strap wrench.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Basin wrench is a must have for anyone even thinking of touching plumbing. What an excellent tool

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
My toilet works during power outages because I don't flush all the electricity at once

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
That's very sad

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
It's the fill valve

Or a hose came loose

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Picture one and picture three are 100% poorly tightened or poorly sealed threads. Whoever installed that heater did not do a good job. The second picture should have been a factory installed nipple, and should not be leaking unless somebody hosed with it for absolutely no reason.

Get an actual licensed plumber out for replacement, not a Home Depot/Walmart contractor. It would be a good idea to get your water tested as well, but the plumber will explain things better when he gets there.

I want to see the rest of your plumbing set up, I get really suspicious from looking at the braided hose connectors.

Nitrox fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 18, 2024

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Expansion tank should not be moving at all. Please secure it

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
If the handle was in the correct position, they would never be able to open cold water, because it would be hitting the backsplash. Take that into consideration when buying the new faucet. And you are absolutely positively buying a new faucet, this is a disposable brand item

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I would like to move the standpipe for my washing machine drain about 8 feet. Currently the washer is on an exterior wall and this is how it's vented:


I'd to move it to the other side of the laundry room on an interior wall about 8' away. Will the current vent be sufficient? I know there are some lateral distance considerations with venting (and maybe drain pipe diameter is part of that? Been a minute since I did any waste plumbing) and just wasn't sure. I may also have to lower the P trap on there to have the correct slope away from the new location-again does that present any problems?

If you are within 8 ft of the main stack, you do not need additional vents. If not, you can do your regular drain, trap and an air admittance valve. You can hide it all inside an interior wall.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I am probably 15-20ft from the main stack thu the roof. If I'm within 8' of that weird stack pictured outside is that okay? Does the AAV need to be above the entrance to the standpipe for the washer drain or does the height of the AAV not really mnatter??
Just do that. Throw away the rest

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Motronic posted:

The one I have and the ones I've seen operate where you push in or pull out to turn on the water. Where it's at now would be full cold, and rotating it forward 90 degrees (so away from the backsplash if it would mounted properly) would be full hot. I don't see any reason why that exact faucet or a similar one would't work when mounted properly there.

it's pull away from stem to enable water, then turn 90° in either direction to go from hot to cold or leave in the middle for mix.

Maybe OP could orient the faucet correctly and give us a demonstration

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Motronic posted:

That's goofy. Must be a house brand/no name/cheap thing. That's way too much travel to be useful/nice to use and causes the install fitment issues we're discussing. But I bet it means they can get away with using a traditional faucet cartridge or something similar that saves them money.

https://i.imgur.com/c3U9NIB.mp4

It's basically a bathroom faucet standing upright, yes. This is why every Ikea faucet has the exact same cartridge inside. I have one in my kitchen, I don't like it either, but it was free so I just live with it.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
What about hot water toilet hookup?

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
It sure ain't

What about that puddle on top of the water heater?

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
There is an o-ring, a rubber bushing and a brass seat in the rebuild kit. It would take less than 10 minutes to rebuild all three valves, assuming they're not corroded to death. Use silicone grease to make your next rebuild a little easier. And there is no reason not to do it sooner, before things get worse.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Whatever you do, make sure you know how to turn the water off not only to that fixture, but to the entire dwelling, as you may need to do that rather quickly when things go very wrong for you

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Tighten the blue arrow nut. You're good for another year

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Do you have an air vent somewhere near the curb, where the house drain pipe meets the city sewer? If so, there is also a trap, and it's probably chock full of feminine hygiene products or whatever you've been flushing.

You don't need to call a plumber specifically. Google drain cleaning service near you, they will have a flat rate that's often reasonable enough for them to come out and snake your main drain lines. Usually under 200 bucks.

Or you can rent a machine from Home Depot and try yourself

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Heat it with a torch

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Wyatt do you think happened to the clog? Of course it's still there

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Yes it will be fine

You could have posted a picture instead of writing a 500 word essay.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Either one of your solutions will work just fine. The only mistakes you could make is put it in front of the trap, or install it too low, which you are not doing.

My personal preference for air admittance valves inside the cabinet, is to mount it higher than the strainer.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Sounds like it was a matter of when, not if. Stop flushing items down the toilet, it's not a garbage chute. Make girlfriend pay the plumber's bill.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
What sort of advice are you expecting to hear?

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
I'm still confused about what your actual question is.

Did you get quotes to redo the pipes in your house from all those plumbers that came to visit? Did they outline the work involved?

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Are we trying to figure out if closing the door to the bathroom creates enough positive atmospheric pressure to flush the toilet?

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Check to make sure there are no giant hairballs in the trap, those usually clog up first.

If you are taking it all apart, you can just go ahead and replace all those rubber bushings, should be about $4 for the whole lot. They need to be hand tight, but make sure you crank on them hard.

And do check that the water is not coming from further up, such as vanity connection or lever mechanism.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Did you replace the seat? It's what the rubber washer is pressing against

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Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Another success story for the plumbing thread!

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