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My wife and I are currently demolishing the kitchen of our newly purchased 1930s house. I just removed the kitchen sink and cabinets today. -The copper hot water line to the kitchen sink is corroded and looks like it's been leaking slowly for some time, and the leak grew when we were removing the old crappy cabinets. There's a few inches of pipe below the leak that doesn't appear to be corroded. -Both shut off valves (hot and cold water) were nearly corroded shut and one or both of them leaks. -The only valve upstream of the kitchen hot water line is the one right after the hot water heater, and it is corroded and leaks. Consequently, even with that valve shut off, water is still drizzling out of the end of the hot water line in the kitchen and also through the hole in the pipe. -The main water shut off valve has thoroughly corroded and won't budge an inch. I don't want to try forcing it for fear of breaking it and flooding the basement. QUESTION: How do I replace a shut off valve (or plug up the pipe) under the kitchen sink when there's still a small amount of water flowing through it? A temporary fix would be fine just so I can turn the hot water back on and shower
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Jul 20, 2009 00:04
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grover posted:Can you shut off water to your house, either by a main valve or at the water meter?  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I believe this is the main valve, right next to the meter. There are no other valves prior to the water heater besides the one right before the heater (which is also corroded and leaks). That pipe plunges into the concrete basement floor. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You could do a live switch with a shark bite valve. That's not available at some place locally like Lowes, is it? I'd like to at least cap the kitchen hot water pipe if I can't put a valve on so I can turn the hot water to the rest of the house on. I'll do something about the main valve soon, I just wanna get the hot water back on so I can shower
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Jul 20, 2009 00:40
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grover posted:FYI, it looks like there are two valves here- one is obvious, the other is the little handleless gate valve just on the other side of the meter that you have to use a wrench or street key to turn. As Rd Rash suggested, try them both. After the meter, the pipe is wrapped in plastic over some sort of thin insulation, just by squeezing it I can't feel anything other than pipe. As far as my leaking kitchen pipe is concerned, I found a push-on shut off valve at Lowes that's working well. I'm going to have to replace the pipe eventually because the valve is now only like 4" off the floor
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Jul 21, 2009 03:06
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The push on angle stop is similar to shark bite design. I would suggest cleaning the pipe before you put it on with "sand screen"(scratch pad, sand paper, etc) and then clean off the pipe and put it on. I've noticed when you put a push on angle stop on. You put it on then turn a 1/4 turn to the right or left to seat the O ring. grover posted:I thought I saw it in the photo, but it may have just been a wrinkle in the plastic. The city should always have a way of shutting off water to your house, though, you just have to find it. In my area, it's easily accessible to homeowners to open/shut the valve ourselves if we want to.
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Jul 21, 2009 15:08
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jackyl posted:Expect a massive quote. There should be a cutoff outside that you can use and then it is no different than replacing any other shutoff, just a bit bigger. Using MAPP gas will make it easier to sweat a larger pipe.
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Jul 22, 2009 03:26
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya that sounds really cheap. Is he license and bonded? Oh, and he gave us an estimate of $5600 to replumb our house with PEX, and move the bathroom toilet across the and install piping for a shower that my wife and I will install. I'm guessing he'd be making a solid $4-500 an hour if we agreed to that (which we didn't, what we wanted doesn't look particularly difficult and I'll probably be tackling it myself). edit: the plumbing to the 2nd floor bathroom is a straight shot up from the basement, can I run PEX pipe through the wall without anchoring it, or am I going to have to open up walls so I can anchor it?
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Jul 27, 2009 04:14
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Quick question: I'm tiling in my new bathtub and don't want to tile the ceiling. Can I use greenboard and textured paint on the ceiling (to match the rest of the bathroom) and not run into problems with mold? I'm going to be installing a fan/vent thingy in the bathroom but I'm not sure if that would reduce the humidity enough
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Aug 12, 2009 00:25
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dyne posted:Quick question: I'm tiling in my new bathtub and don't want to tile the ceiling. Can I use greenboard and textured paint on the ceiling (to match the rest of the bathroom) and not run into problems with mold? I'm going to be installing a fan/vent thingy in the bathroom but I'm not sure if that would reduce the humidity enough Sorry to bring up this question again, but I don't really want to deal with any sort of mold problem in a couple years and I'm specifically worried about the ceiling in the shower. I've been reading conflicting information about greenboard and it trapping moisture behind the drywall and growing mold, and also how it needs to be screwed in 12" OC. I had been planning on putting up the drywall over (under?) the plaster ceiling that's up there now (it's not salvageable) and have been wondering about moisture getting between the drywall and plaster layers. So, should I use regular drywall, greenboard, or that purple mold & moisture resistant drywall I found at lowes? I'm leaning towards the purple stuff. also, sorry if this doesn't belong in a plumbing thread.
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Aug 22, 2009 02:55
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I'm trying to hook up a washing machine and a utility sink in my basement, right in front of the main stack for my 80ish year old house. Here's what I'm working with: Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. The big new pvc pipe was to a toilet the 100 year old previous owner had placed in the upstairs living room. edit: behind the wall to the right is a crappy bathroom. I think the vent pipe from the fixtures meet up with the vent pipe in the first picture I want to put the washing machine right in front of where the drain pipe is, and the utility next to it in front of the main stack. As I understand it, I should be using a 2" drain pipe for the washing machine because the 1.5" pipe won't be able to handle the volume of water pumped by the washing machine. I don't want to go and try to cut out the existing piping to put in a 2" pipe if I don't have to. My only real thought is that I could just hook up the utility sink to the existing drain pipe, then have the washing machine drain into the sink (so that the sink would act as a buffer). I don't really consider that an ideal solution, though, as I don't want the sink to overflow in the event of a drain clog. Any ideas? dyne fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Aug 24, 2009 |
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Aug 24, 2009 22:48
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Depends on the conditions of your drain in for laundry sink. I've seen washers run into them with out a problem. Its not something you'd see done on a new house but they have done it in older times. Can I put a T connector directly below the sink drain, and hook a stand pipe for the washer drain to that and be ok code-wise?
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Aug 25, 2009 01:35
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you have the drain that close you will most likely get sudds in the sink. And how do you plan on venting the sink? As for the vent for the sink, wouldn't the vent pipe that's there work?
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Aug 25, 2009 03:32
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:the T on its back looks like its flowing in the wrong direction for the vent. I could be seeing it wrong though but it looks like it sweeps to the right. What I was calling a vent pipe does veer to the right, and then it runs vertically parallel to the main stack. I think I remember seeing the pipe rejoin the main stack above the sink in our 2nd floor bathroom (which is the highest fixture in the house), and then the main stack goes through the roof. The whole plumbing setup looks pretty cobbled together
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Aug 25, 2009 17:25
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It sounds like it could be the drain pipe for your lavatory. I wouldn't suggest using it as a vent.
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Aug 26, 2009 01:46
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Well you should be fine getting away with it. 
dyne fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Aug 26, 2009 |
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Aug 26, 2009 02:18
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Not 100% plumbing related, but I'm installing a new furnace and have a question. I'm using PVC for the intake and exhaust, and will have two 2" PVC pipes sticking out of my brick siding. Does anyone make a decorative trim/collar I can put around each pipe as it exits the brick to hide the hole and caulking job? Also, do tees exist that look like this:  All I can find at the local big box stores are sanitary tees.
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Dec 12, 2012 15:24
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