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How do I tie into my municipal drain when I have to cut back to the foundation wall? The old clay coming into the house goes to an immediate T, with no room to join in any regular way. Can I slide something into it?
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Sep 22, 2009 03:51
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I took some pictures of my main drain junction at the foundation, since I haven't figured out what I'm supposed to do with it yet. I really need an easy to implement solution, since I can't really live in my house right now. The broken wye shows that section is clay, and I think the T below it is, too, but it's impossible to say for sure. I have no idea what the small pipe is for. It wasn't connected to anything; I found it when I excavated the floor. The right side is the foundation wall, it is fieldstone and about 4 feet thick.  
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Sep 28, 2009 12:01
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:
Looks like that's what I'll be doing:  Edit: for another question. At the next corner in the basement, there is a pipe going straight into the ground. It is about 2" diameter, and if I whack it, you can hear water at the bottom. It doesn't seem to have any purpose or connection. Guesses?
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Oct 11, 2009 02:20
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I made a stupid mistakeearlier, That is cast iron not clay pipe.(just clarifying for you above really) Yeah, I realized it was iron and was attempting to separate the pipe at the hubs. I chipped away all the crud and it turns out the pipe had been leaking and had set the clay soil around the pipe so it was clay-coated. The iron was all flaking and broken in places, and the whole T-fitting ultimately broke apart. Would an old boiler have its own water supply? I think the mystery pipe and the small pipe next to the drain are both old old supply lines. One last question: When I dig up outside the wall, if the pipe looks rough, would I typically be responsible for the entire length that lies on my own property? The location of the pipe in my wall is about 30 feet from the property line nearest the street. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Oct 11, 2009 |
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Oct 11, 2009 16:56
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd really suggest digging up the pipe and removing it. Ok, so I did it the right way. I maybe even did it right. Reached the treasure!  A nice clean cut with the snap cutter, and.. uh oh  Just a temporary setback. We gave up on usable iron and cut before the first clay hub, which we'd already damaged. I had already bought a clay-to-iron coupler expecting this:  Something to connect to inside, finally: 
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Oct 22, 2009 04:00
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Nice, looks like you did a great job. Did you put a level on the pipe and check the grade? I did and also tested it by running water into it, and none flowed back out. However, after pouring some concrete and filling in, the pipe seems to have settled a bit. I had it propped up on stones, but I guess not well enough. It now sits more or less level. That would leave me with a level run about 4-5 feet long between the first T and the existing clay sewer outside. Is this going to be a major problem?
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Oct 25, 2009 14:30
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What's the right/best way to finish a floor drain in a concrete basement floor? All the instructions I can find say 'pour concrete and set fitting', but I need a bit more detail. I know it needs a bit of a slope around the rim, but do I set the fitting first and pour right up to the grate? Or do I pour with extra drain pipe sticking out, cut that off and set the drain fitting? If I do that, do I have to chip out the concrete if the fitting is larger than the pipe?
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Jan 26, 2010 12:54
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grover posted:Building inspectors pitch themselves as jacks-of-all-trades and might know some about some of the trades, but they can't hold a candle to actual experts. For what it's worth, my home inspector was a P.Eng and didn't spot the following, in one bathroom alone: -Duct taped pipe joints -Incorrect plastic/lead/iron joints -toilet leaking under floor -sink leaking under floor -mold covered drywall behind 3 walls You might have more luck, and get better information by going to your municipality, and asking for the permit information for all previous work. If there aren't any since the home was built, and everything is original, at least you know it's up to code for 1920. Probably it isn't original, so a lack of permits might tell you you need to look deeper, too.
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Feb 18, 2010 12:55
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grover posted:Please tell me he was electrical or environmental, and not a plumbing P.Eng... Pretty sure it wasn't plumbing, but my point is, inspectors don't open walls or floors or anything. If it's not obvious, it's not noted by your average home inspector.
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Feb 19, 2010 07:40
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What size threaded adapter do I need to connect to my water supply? The outside of the male threaded output side measures nearly 1". Is that a 3/4" fitting? http://tinypic.com/r/23w3bcg/5 http://tinypic.com/r/faxxz4/5
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May 14, 2010 03:38
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insanity74 posted:I have the exact same meter here in Baden, but ours has the nuts wired with an anti-tamper wire. I just had to change out the output for a water softener, and I found it easiest to just leave the little stem with the nut on the meter and break the pipe open at the first joint after the meter (on mine, I had to de-solder a joint. on yours, you just need to take it off at the elbow to the right.) and connect the new piping there. Is there a reason you can't do that? The reason for asking is because I want to replace that first nut with one that is female thread to PEX, to send to my PEX manifold. I have to special order the fitting, and I want to order the right one. The nuts all appear to be brass. I could sweat a 1/2" to 1/2" copper-pex fitting after the elbow, but I'm trying to move up a size for the supply line. edit: Baden? It probably is the same meter; same Regional Municipality.
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May 15, 2010 00:24
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I got the right size threaded brass barbed fitting, and attached my pex to the outlet side of my water meter. I have screwed it on tight, tighter, and then really loving tight, and it still drips very very slowly. I also put the same fitting on my inlet and outlet ports of my water heater, and they both do the same thing. The fittings didn't come with washers, but I used teflon tape. The old fittings didn't have washers either, but they didn't leak. They were essentially the same thing, except having copper sweated into them, instead of pex crimped onto them. None of the fitting are leaking at the pex connection, just the threads. What am I doing wrong?
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May 24, 2010 15:10
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grover posted:You're not supposed to use teflon tape on compression fittings, only NPT threads. There only is teflon on the threads. These are 3/4" pex to 3/4" NPT, and all the NPT sides are leaking. All the pex sides, done without teflon, are fine.
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May 25, 2010 12:01
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 08:40 |
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EDIT: I did end up getting a 1"-to-1" poly compression fitting. Will report back if my yard turns into a swamp overnight. I'm hoping for a quick answer. The city was recently nice enough to replace all the mains in my area, right up to the shutoff on my property. I'm using their hole and timing to replace my part of the line from the shutoff to the inside. I have a roll of 1" supply line same as the city used. I cannot figure out how to connect to their hardware:     The short black stub is my side, obviously. I was hoping I'd be able to pull it out of the shutoff device and simply insert my line and tighten. It seems the nut-type end of that shutoff is one cast piece with the rest of the unit. The city's side is threaded on. The existing copper is 3/4' so I can't just pull it out and replace it. Do I have to bother with a two sided coupler to join that black stub to my line? Why can't I just loosen it and joint directly to the shutoff? mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 8, 2011 18:04
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