Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Cardiovorax posted:

I tend to use jdupes myself. It's purely command-line, but it's very fast and powerful and can easily go through and hash multiple gigabytes worth of files in just minutes. It's basically identical to fdupes, except it's multiple times faster. You have a lot of flexibility in how you want files presented and in what you want done with them when duplicates are found. One of the most common things to do is to set it up to pick the first out of the list of duplicates and delete everything else, but if you're good at bash scripting, it's also possible to set it up to instead move all duplicate files into a different directory while leaving one behind so that you can decide for yourself if you really want the duplicates gone.

rdfind is also pretty good, but I don't use it much. Then there is findimagedupes, which is specifically for finding visually similar images that aren't actually identical files. It's more of a specialty tool, but if you need it, you really need it.

Hey, is there any way to to have jdupes check for duplicates between two drives but not within the drives themselves?

Some files are duplicated within the drive for organizational purposes.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Is that not what Alt + Tab or Win Key + Tab is for?

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
I have some old TP Link Powerline repeaters. The utility to manage them is now showing this image instead of loading normally. I'm guessing it's written in Flash and it's loving up after Windows stopped supporting it.

Are there any workarounds to this?

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Klyith posted:

What browser do you use? If you have one that doesn't have flash at all, like firefox out of the box, does it display a different page?

It's vendor software, not a web portal. Although it's very probable that the app itself is just some sort of wrapper for IE or something like that, but the point is that I can't just switch browsers.


Klyith posted:

Temporary fix: set the date on your pc back 2 days, configure the thing, reset date.

This worked, goddamn computers are dumb, thanks!


Klyith posted:

Permanent fix: you say they're old, but have you updated their firmware to whatever the last supported version is? TP Link's poo poo got compromised by a worm that redirected people to install malicious versions of flash under the guise of a flash update a number of years ago. I'd bet that a bunch of stuff got new firmware to drop flash after that. Honestly if they're so old they haven't had a firmware update in 3+ years I'd be thinking about getting rid of them anyways.

Yeah, it's the latest. Yes, I'm probably going to replace them soon, but they've been a JustWorksTM solution for the past 6 or so years. They're not web facing anyway so I'm not too worried about vulns.

Thanks again.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
You can also try opening them up in Word and then printing to PDF, it can work surprisingly well.

That said, I use PDF XChange Editor (from the unfortunately named Tracker Software company). A lot of the features aren't free, but it's really good and you can try it out for free.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Hey all, I asked a similar question ages ago but I wanted to get some updated input.

We have a small (5 person) office running G Suite for email/cloud storage (on a custom domain), and Office 365 just for the productivity apps. We've had this setup for approximately 7 years now with mostly no complaints.

I'm the one that runs the "tech side" since I'm the only one that "knows computers" and since we're probably going full remote soon, I'm thinking of moving everything to just Microsoft 365 just so that I don't have to handle 2 different configurations for everything, and also since we use Office so much it'd be nice to have the integrated cloud storage and document collaboration.

I'm just wondering if anyone's done a similar transition, or if you have any opinions about Microsoft 365 in general. Mostly I'm worried about the admin stuff being at least as easy as G Suite since I'll be handling that.

Thanks!

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Thanks, for the link!

Yeah, it's mostly a legacy thing, we had G suite from when Office 365 was a shitshow, and also M365 Business is significantly more expensive than the combo because we're on legacy G Suite pricing, but apparently that's going away soon, which prompted me to look into this.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Wowporn posted:

Hi I am having a dumb problem and not sure if this or the hardware thread is the right place for it. I built a new PC for a friend and I had built the same PC for myself a few months ago. When I built mine I got lucky and was able to just shove my old hardrives including the one with windows installed into my new PC and it all worked out fine. When we tried doing the same with her PC we had much less luck.

We ended up starting over with a fresh install on an unused hard drive, but the issue we're running into now is that it will only boot properly if that drive is the only one plugged in. She also has a 1TB SSD that's mostly just games from steam installed on, and an old school one 1TB western digital WD Blue for storage but is mostly empty. After a ton of trial and error we realized that if either of those two drives are plugged in in addition to the one Windows is installed on when we turn it on we get that "windows needs to be repaired" thing.

I brought the two other drives home and am gonna use a sata-usb adapter to hook them up to my PC and completely format them in case there are old drivers or something loving with windows, but is there something else I should try? What would be my next step if formatting them doesn't work, just getting all new hard drives?

I've had similar issues and fixing them is always a pain in the rear end that involves rebuilding the Master Boot Record once it's plugged to the new computer.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Medullah posted:

I have a PC I'm thinking of selling, and want to sell it with Windows installed. If I use a Windows 7 key to upgrade to 10, does it have to be activated with a Microsoft account, or can I install Windows with no key and supply it to the person that buys my PC and they can add it later?

If you do an upgrade I believe Windows 10 will automatically look at the Windows 7 key and activate your Win 10 install (and possibly inactivate your Win 7 key? I'm not sure about this), as soon as the PC is online.

What you want to do, probably, is upgrade to Windows 10, tie the install to your personal Microsoft account, transfer that activation to a separate PC (which should deactivate the original install), format the drive, install Windows 10 again directly from media, skip the activation, create a generic user account, and hand over the PC in that state. Then the new owner can buy a key and reactivate however they want (they might even get lucky and Win 10 will activate anyway because MS is really bad at deactivating old installs).

That all sounds like a lot of work. I would just take the L on Win 7 key, and flatten the drive, or some combination of the above.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Medullah posted:

I *want* to give them a 7 key, so it's not taking a L. :) Ideally I'd like to sell a fully functioning machine as I think that will up the value a tiny amount.

Ah, cool, I misread your post as wanting to sell them the PC with windows installed but not necessarily giving them the key. Then, yeah, install Win 10, make sure it's activated and then optionally maybe do the a Windows Reset or straight up flatten then the drive and reinstall Windows 10 (it should re-activate automatically), depending on how concerned you're about your data.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
This has been an issue with windows for years and I believe it's essentially a "Won't Fix" from Microsoft.

Windows 11 at least offers more one-click layout options other than "Full Screen, Half Screen, No Screen".

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
I know it's not your issue but this sounds like something you could look into since it sounds like the something in the shared clipboard is loving up.

https://techtalk.gfi.com/copy-paste-working-remote-desktop-connection-whats-wrong/

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Hipster_Doofus posted:

Love your username.

❤️ it came to me a couple of weeks ago and I finally pulled the trigger on it

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Xander77 posted:

Malwarebytes found a whole bunch of stuff literally called "Trojanrandomstringofnumbersandletters". And removing all that stuff suddenly got my computer to speed back up to a reasonable speed.

Nah. It was all turned on, but the green checkmark wasn't there.

I do download a bunch of movies from bittorrent (no programs though). Malwarebytes doesn't care for that.

If I had to take a wild guess, you likely got a crypto miner, many of them are old now and listed in AV detection lists. What you don’t know is if whatever program that installed it left some crap that will reinstall it, you don’t know if it also installed a key logger that didn’t get detected, or whatever else.

You will never ever know for sure no matter how many av products you download.

It’s a pain in the rear end, but flatten and reinstall (or maybe even Windows Reset, although I’ve heard disagreements on just how effective it is), will give you some peace of mind.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
I bought a new keyboard and completely forgot to check if it had dedicated media buttons (it doesn't).

I only really need Play/Pause as I watch a lot of online video content and take notes on it.

Is there a relatively simple way of remapping a key to that function? This keyboard has two separate Windows keys, for example, so I'd have no issue losing the second one.

I know AHK is a thing but it seems like overkill for just one button?

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Thank you both for the solutions! I tried to Google it but I kept getting results about function keys on laptops.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer

Medullah posted:

Are you sure it doesn't have keys? All the keyboards I have in my house have FN+ keys for media playing, usually on the F keys.

This is an external keyboard, I forgot to clarify, sorry. And no, it doesn't have any special keys, I purposely bought the most basic-rear end Logitech keyboard and then forgot that I would no longer have the media keys the laptop has.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
PowerToys was a breeze, thanks for the suggestion!

Medullah posted:

Yeah I assumed you meant external, I just looked at mine and they all have the keys so I figured I'd ask. One's a cheap Logitech as it so happens. :)

I actually went to look over at my wife's basic-rear end Logitech and it does have media keys! Only difference is that mine is wired and hers wireless. Huh.

dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Feb 21, 2022

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
A few months ago I moved to Windows 11, and almost at the same time I installed PowerToys.

I like both of them, but I suspect one or both are loving up something about the screen capture function.

I use Win + Shift + S for screen capturing. Normally, it would darken the whole screen replace the cursor with a "+" which indicates you can drag and drop the area you want to capture.

Now it's only darkening about 1/3 of the screen, and I can only initiate the drag and drop capture functionality on the darkened part of the screen (weirdly, I can drag and drop outside the darkened area as long as I initiate from the darkened area).

This only happens when I have my desktop Extended to a second monitor.

My first guess was Fancy Zones, but I turned that off, and basically anything other than Keyboard Shortcuts, but it still happens.

Just wondering if anyone else has run into something like this.

Edit: apparently this is a known problem with W11 and happens when you have multiple monitors and the external monitor set to Main Display. Setting the laptop screen as Main Display "fixes" it.

dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Mar 31, 2022

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
I just got an HP Envy with W11.

Is flattening and reinstalling Windows to remove bloatware still a thing?

The only real offensive things I've found are McAfee and Alexa built in, other than that there's some HP stuff that's fairly inoffensive.

Edit: I know reinstalling isn't the biggest deal, and it's my standard MO, but lately these laptops actually have so many manufacturer specific drivers that reinstalling just means doing a lot driver managing.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply