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Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific


Adjusted the hardness setting on the Z4 BC coils. Full hardness was making my tits jiggle too much. Halfway seems to be perfect.


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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Usually jiggling tits makes me fully hard. Not the other way around.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific


Not these tits my guy. Not these tits.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


lol.

Mentat Radnor
Apr 24, 2008

~Water flowers every day~
Today I replaced this valve cover gasket on my (relatively new to me) 2004 Corolla's 1ZZ-FE 1.8L engine. The existing gasket was quite brittle, and if you look closely you might be able to see that it was leaking just a wee tiny bit of oil all over the front and sides of the engine. I wonder how many years it has been doing this before I owned the car, it's really caked on there. On the plus side it seems like the previous owners at least changed the oil at decent intervals, because those cams don't look half bad to me for an engine with 231k miles on it (371k km).



I cleaned up the mating surfaces and what I could reach of the oily mess on the outside of the engine and valve cover, then put those little thin smears of RTV where the timing cover meets the head, and installed a new Felpro gasket that was $16 on rockauto. Torqued everything to spec about four times as the gasket squished. Went for a twenty mile test drive and it looks like a great success, no signs of new weeping oil on any of the places I cleaned.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I've been taking apart the front right drive joint. I got a new ball joint and a new CV joint to fit. And other ideas.

Start by removing the brake caliper. Pinch off the brake hose and cover the end says the Saab manual.



The calipers came off quite easily, and so did the brake disc itself.



Between that picture and the next it had been quite a while, had to fight quite hard against the bolts in the upper wishbone. I want the entire hub removed so I am removing both ball joints.



The one thing the manual does not tell me is the order of operations for removing the brake shield. It looks like the hub needs to be further disassembled.

Here is also the new ball joint near the old worn out one. The upper ball joint feels pretty good in comparison



The brakes then, the pins slide easily and the gaiters are intact, feel flexible and healthy, I don't think they need to be replaced.


Now I forgot to take a picture of the piston's face but it looked quite "gnarly" so a new piston might be needed but maybe it can be saved... I have taken out the brake calipers because I thought I would run all the parts in an electrolysis bath.

I also want to do the same with the brake shield, paint it and try to extend its life. Maybe the hub itself could also benefit from electrolysis while I am at it. Feels like I should make the most of this while I got it apart.

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Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific


The boy did almost all the work but he doesn’t have an account…

Wash, clay, buff and wax on the RX8. Cleans up nice for a cheap ol’ thing.


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