|
Adjusted the hardness setting on the Z4 BC coils. Full hardness was making my tits jiggle too much. Halfway seems to be perfect.  
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2024 01:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 17:33 |
|
|
Usually jiggling tits makes me fully hard. Not the other way around.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2024 02:15
|
|
|
Not these tits my guy. Not these tits.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2024 02:47
|
|
|
lol.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2024 21:35
|
|
|
Today I replaced this valve cover gasket on my (relatively new to me) 2004 Corolla's 1ZZ-FE 1.8L engine. The existing gasket was quite brittle, and if you look closely you might be able to see that it was leaking just a wee tiny bit of oil all over the front and sides of the engine. I wonder how many years it has been doing this before I owned the car, it's really caked on there. On the plus side it seems like the previous owners at least changed the oil at decent intervals, because those cams don't look half bad to me for an engine with 231k miles on it (371k km). I cleaned up the mating surfaces and what I could reach of the oily mess on the outside of the engine and valve cover, then put those little thin smears of RTV where the timing cover meets the head, and installed a new Felpro gasket that was $16 on rockauto. Torqued everything to spec about four times as the gasket squished. Went for a twenty mile test drive and it looks like a great success, no signs of new weeping oil on any of the places I cleaned.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2024 01:50
|
|
|
I've been taking apart the front right drive joint. I got a new ball joint and a new CV joint to fit. And other ideas. Start by removing the brake caliper. Pinch off the brake hose and cover the end says the Saab manual.  The calipers came off quite easily, and so did the brake disc itself.  Between that picture and the next it had been quite a while, had to fight quite hard against the bolts in the upper wishbone. I want the entire hub removed so I am removing both ball joints.  The one thing the manual does not tell me is the order of operations for removing the brake shield. It looks like the hub needs to be further disassembled. Here is also the new ball joint near the old worn out one. The upper ball joint feels pretty good in comparison  The brakes then, the pins slide easily and the gaiters are intact, feel flexible and healthy, I don't think they need to be replaced.  Now I forgot to take a picture of the piston's face but it looked quite "gnarly" so a new piston might be needed but maybe it can be saved... I have taken out the brake calipers because I thought I would run all the parts in an electrolysis bath. I also want to do the same with the brake shield, paint it and try to extend its life. Maybe the hub itself could also benefit from electrolysis while I am at it. Feels like I should make the most of this while I got it apart.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2024 19:53
|
|
|
The boy did almost all the work but he doesn’t have an account… Wash, clay, buff and wax on the RX8. Cleans up nice for a cheap ol’ thing.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 01:13
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I've been taking apart the front right drive joint. I got a new ball joint and a new CV joint to fit. And other ideas. Ooo, a lathe and a mill! Want. I'm not sure from context if you intend to take that apart or not first, but I don't think the bearings in the hub are going to be happy in an electrolysis bath if you weren't intending to further disassemble. Otherwise, go for it. Electrolytic rust removal is chemistry magic. So neat to go in with rusty junk and pull out basically new steel and iron.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 19:05
|
|
|
I was looking into it. I wasn't gonna put bearings in water and I found the procedure in my Saab manuals and it says removing the wheel hub is destructive... So yeah I'm gonna leave it be for now and just go at the whole unit with rust converter and a steel brushed angle grinder... Maybe I'll try and paint it. I got the brake parts in the electrolysis bath though. Feels real stupid that the brake dust shield cannot be removed without destroying another part.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 19:15
|
|
|
Literally all they had to do was put a gap in it large enough to clear the hub. I guess you could do that yourself...
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 20:08
|
|
|
I looked at the screw hole layout and if I opened up a big enough hole to slip it off, I'd only be able to attach it with one screw, there are three holes 120 degrees from each other. They did change this on latter cars though. Granted I could perhaps make my own part that attaches to the other screws like some kind of split ring that went over the holes to hold everything down. But I'm not sure I'm feeling up for that right now. I've also put the taillights back. I went and added a second sealing strip on the car body itself, D-profile brown is all I found. But it's almost completely hidden when assembled:  The two sealing strips meet each other and I hope this will create good water seal. There's only one way to find out... It'd be pretty nice if this works out, then the no longer made and often troublesome seals can be replaced with something cheap and storebought. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 20:44
|
|
|
I don't know what Saab originally used but the other euros of that time period were using strip caulk. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000074302/ 924/944/968s are lousy with it, from the taillights to the hvac circulator in the cowl.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 21:01
|
|
|
Over the last 2 days.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 23:17
|
|
|
Does your rear defroster still work? I had to do the same to the rear window of a BMW and I in attempting to fix one thing I botched another. Now I have two non working strips across the window. I hope yours went better!
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2024 03:30
|
|
|
I can’t really tell because it never got that warm in the first place. I never broke any wires, just scraped a bit of the back of the copper. It’s ultimately a pretty simple system. There are repair kits out there if you can identify where continuity is broken.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2024 03:39
|
|
|
Well I guess the brake calipers are ready now, multiple times in electrolysis bath.  Ready for paint, personally I'd like gold.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2024 18:58
|
|
|
Built this piece of poo poo over the weekend to try and force out the lower ball joint, didn't work, too flexible. I got informed the best way to make these let go is to actually shock it from the side instead. I tried doing that but without luck. Eventually I took the whole hub to my anvil and rested the other side of the ball joint mount on the anvil, then I whacked it with my forging hammer and it plopped out. Argh the frustration of not having done this straight away!
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 11:33
|
|
|
I guess you don't have a pickle fork?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 15:00
|
|
|
Nope I was about to pause the work and go buy one, or some other tool when I got the tip to smack it from the side instead.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 15:58
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Built this piece of poo poo over the weekend to try and force out the lower ball joint, didn't work, too flexible. They make tools like that that are forged. I don't recall exactly where I got mine, but they are on Amazon. Seem to work OK. Basically this: https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE There's also this style: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-78912-Profile-Separator/dp/B01JBJS80E
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 19:26
|
|
|
Worked on the scout over the weekend for the first time in like a year.  Had to get this guy out, he's been in there since October but thankfully his glowing red eyes gave out long ago  Got the new column installed  Got the new steering shaft installed as well  Cleaned everything up and attempted to start it and gas started to shoot out the top of the carb. Gave up driving it. I got a spare edlebrock carb at the farm that I'll probably throw in but I seriously priced out the sniper kit to see, and its doable for ~$1800. I just want this drat truck to run though so I can start cleaning it up, replace the brakes and get the engine bay looking a lot nicer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 19:57
|
|
|
I'm a total idiot with a total idiot car (2013 Honda CR-V, 87k miles, all but 7 of those are me personally driving it) and I did my first fix today at 44 years old. I feel like such an idiot and a toddler being so happy about it, but, still, yeah, I think I finally got the wrenching bug late in life. $17 of parts to replace my own turn signal bulbs. I'm also kicking myself over all the dumb crap I have paid someone else to do to this car over the years when the secret is just like writing computer code: watching Indian guys on YouTube!
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 22:33
|
|
|
Hell yeah more AI Scout stuff. Get that thing running so you can tell me if the Borgeson steering setup is worth it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 23:03
|
|
|
Kvantum posted:I'm a total idiot with a total idiot car (2013 Honda CR-V, 87k miles, all but 7 of those are me personally driving it) and I did my first fix today at 44 years old. I feel like such an idiot and a toddler being so happy about it, but, still, yeah, I think I finally got the wrenching bug late in life. $17 of parts to replace my own turn signal bulbs. This rules. Cars aren't as complicated as people think. Brake pads are a good next thing or changing oil or air filter. None of it is that difficult. If you live in the rust belt, things are exponentially harder though if you touch suspension or exhaust FYI.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2024 23:26
|
|
|
Kvantum posted:I'm a total idiot with a total idiot car (2013 Honda CR-V, 87k miles, all but 7 of those are me personally driving it) and I did my first fix today at 44 years old. I feel like such an idiot and a toddler being so happy about it, but, still, yeah, I think I finally got the wrenching bug late in life. $17 of parts to replace my own turn signal bulbs. Nice work! Most routine stuff is actually pretty simple and totally doable with some basic tools. Swing by the Stupid Questions thread if you're curious about other stuff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 00:30
|
|
|
Kvantum posted:I'm a total idiot with a total idiot car (2013 Honda CR-V, 87k miles, all but 7 of those are me personally driving it) and I did my first fix today at 44 years old. I feel like such an idiot and a toddler being so happy about it, but, still, yeah, I think I finally got the wrenching bug late in life. $17 of parts to replace my own turn signal bulbs. Hell yeah! YouTube certified mechanic stickers are a thing. Factory service manuals are available and will cover every nut bolt and washer on your car. Then theyre just giant adult Legos.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 01:30
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:Hell yeah! YouTube certified mechanic stickers are a thing. I literally said that last part to myself as I was replacing the last bulb. It's just like my computers. Nothing more than a big adult LEGO kit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 01:43
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:Hell yeah! YouTube certified mechanic stickers are a thing. Mine is “internet certified “ in the style of the ASME mechanics logo, but I have the t-shirt! Kvantum posted:I literally said that last part to myself as I was replacing the last bulb. It's just like my computers. Nothing more than a big adult LEGO kit. Basically, but like computers, some stuff is more esoteric if you haven’t seen it before. And sometime not logical in the context of anything but cars. Sometimes not then, even! Studying manuals and looking up a tutorial or two usually gets it, though. I’m 63 and have been wrenching since I as a kid and still have to look stuff up sometimes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 02:35
|
|
|
Knowing how and when to look stuff up is pretty core skill for repair of anything. Pros in most trades pay big moeny for acees to service data.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 02:37
|
|
|
I paid 15 euros for a PDF of almost every Saab workshop manual between 79-94, for some reason this is called a "Bentley manual" in english. I dunno why, maybe they did the translations or something. Mine are original swedish. It's over 6000 pages worth but fortunately there's a complete index in the PDF. Anyway last níght I got the brake shield off, I drilled the bolts out from behind since they are thru-holes then I twisted off the bolt heads. By cutting away a portion of the brake shield I was able to slip it off. It's now been in an electrolysis bath over night. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 04:43
|
|
|
After reshaping the throttle body tube with a heat gun so it's not shaped like this: I swapped the stock airbox (with new FRAM filter!) in, because the C5Z pings at WOT high in 2nd and into 3rd with the aFe intake, and apparently installing a new airbox on these cars sometimes requires a tune to make it not ping? And, being a CA registered car, I can't show up to emissions testing with a custom tune. I know I'll have to do that laptop-based back and forth if I blow up the LS6 and replace it with a newer crate motor, but I don't want to do that dance for an airbox. I also set up an appointment with a dealership to check for updated programming, because 91 octane E10 at sea level didn't exist when this car was released. I'm also tentatively wondering if I can ballast (via sound deadening and slow tires) this car into NASA TT4, because that sounds more pleasant than adding 80hp, a wing, and a splitter to a street car to then lose at TT3.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 07:52
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I paid 15 euros for a PDF of almost every Saab workshop manual between 79-94, for some reason this is called a "Bentley manual" in english. I dunno why, maybe they did the translations or something. Bentley is the name of the publisher of a series of vehicle repair manuals. It's got nothing to do with the car company.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 15:39
|
|
|
If possible I'd advice to get the brand stuff unless it's known to be a good manual. I find the S10 Haynes manual pretty lacking compared to the "real" manual.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 17:17
|
|
|
Bentley manuals are way better than Haynes in my experience, they have actual assembly instructions as well as tightening torques. Of course the factory manuals are the best ones for most brands, but can be a pain in the rear end to get ahold of. Sometimes you have to download a pirated version of the workshop software from some shady site if someone else hasn't already extracted the manual as a PDF (ask me how I know).
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2024 19:25
|
|
|
I've seen the english Bentley manuals for the Saab and they're basically copies of the original factory manuals intended for the dealers and service network, I assume that was always the intent at least with Saab. They just outsourced the translations. I suppose this makes sense for a non american car manufacturer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2024 09:16
|
|
|
Speaking of manuals, just in case someone doesn't know, I have a whole lot of manuals for Mazda rotary cars (some of which I personally scanned, cleaned up, and PDF'd myself) on my personal site here, and fellow goon Sgt. Fox has most if not all of them as well on his site. edit: pretty sure most of RADL knows these two sites, but just in case. Folks new to dorito motors are a thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2024 22:36
|
|
|
Dude I love your site. The old school shittiness (meant in the nicest way possible!) is rad and sorely missed in todays streamline big corporation web. I'll scan my 1965 Dodge Dart Manual when I get some free time, and I might even make a similar lovely (i.e awesome) website for it. I don't think there is MY1965 manual that I've found... at least last time I checked a year ago or so.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2024 17:47
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Dude I love your site. The old school shittiness (meant in the nicest way possible!) is rad and sorely missed in todays streamline big corporation web. +1 Hit me with that nostalgia baby, awe yessssssssss.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2024 17:50
|
|
|
Kvantum posted:I'm a total idiot with a total idiot car (2013 Honda CR-V, 87k miles, all but 7 of those are me personally driving it) and I did my first fix today at 44 years old. I feel like such an idiot and a toddler being so happy about it, but, still, yeah, I think I finally got the wrenching bug late in life. $17 of parts to replace my own turn signal bulbs. As a former 2013 CR-V owner, I regret to inform you that you won't learn much wrenching on it because it will never loving break, and the regular maintenance jobs on it are as easy as it gets. In all seriousness it's a great car to learn on because you will not waste any time cursing the engineers who designed it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2024 05:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 17:33 |
|
|
Finally, many parts are becoming a lesser amount of larger parts again. I went with silver and black since that's what was available. The brake shield is showing some wear but I think I'll get a couple more years out of it.    Haven't really done much to the bolts, wire brushed them and oiled and wiped down. Used ATE brake grease on the pins and cylinder. I dunno if this is supposed to be used only on the cylinder but I'll be hosed if I am buying two types of grease for this. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2024 17:05
|
|