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OhhCrap posted:I hit a streetlight. Heh, you can see where you hopped the curb. I can barely tell your front is damaged in that picture. I changed my spark plugs today. Took me 2 hours because I couldn't figure out how to remove the drat intake.
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Jul 12, 2009 01:28
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This  
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Jul 12, 2009 02:42
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FogHelmut posted:Mine is stupid and under the battery and behind the headlight, but on the right side. Hooray GM. I hope it doesn't involve removing wheels and fenders. If your car is the same way, do yourself a favour and look for a little plastic expanding-bolt (like an arrowhead) that fits into the inside of the fender from the side of the reservoir. I think it's there to keep the reservoir from shaking against the side of the body, and I definitely couldn't wiggle the reservoir at all until it was out. I had a horrible time finding that until I took the fender liner and wheel off, but now that I know where it is I could probably take it off with just removing the fender liner. Knowing GM they probably reused this exact piece for everything from the J-bodies to the WS6. It would've been faster for me to pull the motor, I suspect. Or the bumper. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Jul 12, 2009 |
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Jul 12, 2009 05:15
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Today me and a friend of mine replaced the starter motor in my temperamental 1988 Mazda 929. Had a bad battery, lovely air filter, and a oil-filled starter motor. Because it wouldn't start, my friend pushed the car up onto the ramps... and I didn't jerk up on the e-brake fast enough and it crashed down. Oops. Trying again, we popped the bolts and then spent over two hours trying to get it out. Eventually my friend said "gently caress it" and took it apart right in the housing and just pulled out disassembled parts. A trip to the Autozone later, we arrive back with a new starter motor that takes an hour to squeeze in there. Did I mention my car has a horrible oil leak and everything is coated in grime? It was dirty, curse-filled work for a really irritating job that Mazda apparently did not design their starter motor to be removed or replaced. But we did it, and the car starts like a dream. Just a routine oil change and I'll have a working car again.
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Jul 12, 2009 05:36
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Clay barred and waxed my corrado today. The paint is so smooth and shiny, I love it!
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Jul 12, 2009 09:53
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I changed the oil on my Cadillac myself for the first time since I got it. I have never worked on a GM vehicle that was as easy to access the filter as that car. Right on the bottom with easy access? Awesome! I also went to bleed my Monte Carlo brakes by stripped the bleeder valve.  Oh well.
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Jul 13, 2009 00:25
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Replaced the steering gear box, now no more driving like a boat down the freeway almost killing everyone ,yeah!
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Jul 13, 2009 01:05
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- Replaced broken heater core - New thermostat, housing gasket, and water outlet gasket - New radiator cap - Radiator flush with one of those hook your garden hose up to your car kits Let me tell you the worst thing about replacing your heater core. It is finding a pair of pliers that fit between the engine and the fire wall and under the air conditioning lines and between various other hoses so you can access those horrible squeeze type hose clamps that hold the hoses onto the heater core. Holy gently caress. I ended up just pulling on the hoses really hard until they came off. Getting them back on wasn't as much of an issue because I could angle the squeeze parts so that it wasn't that bad. Though, after I finished, I realized I had a whole drawer full of the screw type hose clamps. Things that I learned: - Plastic petcocks are loving stupid. - Buckets catch antifreeze better than oil drip pans. - People at Advanced Auto know a whole lot more than the people at Pep Boys, like that "the rubber o-ring that goes on the thermostat" is called a "water outlet gasket." - The rubber o-ring that goes on the thermostat is called the water outlet gasket. - Hose clamps are annoying. Things that I am still confused about: - I may be running 30% antifreeze / 70% water. - Some of that water may still be hose water. I drained the hose water and filled with distilled, ran the engine, then drained that. I'm not 100% positive that every time I drained, I was draining everything. When you open the petcock, is the engine supposed to be warm? Running? Not running? Things that I broke: - The plastic petcock. - A metal clip that connects to the body and the center console screws into fell somewhere into the body under the floor. - My HUD is now in KPH instead of MPH, and my trip computer/car status display is not lit up. I forgot to plug something back in. The good news is that nothing is leaking. The engine doesn't get too hot. When it does get warm, the fans come on and it actually cools down now. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jul 13, 2009 |
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Jul 13, 2009 03:12
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Oops, wrong What did you do to your ride today thread. I contemplated working on my Buick today, will probably get to it on Tuesday.
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Jul 13, 2009 04:21
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Not my cars, but: Sister's '03 ZX2 - new front brakes including rotors and calipers. loving rusty slide pins!  Friend's '04 Alero - New wheel bearing.
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Jul 13, 2009 08:22
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Installed the hub-bolt caps on my 240sx that finally came in to the dealer. I had to mangle the ones that were on there since 89 to remove my front hubs to get new studs pressed in because the stock ones were stripped because of having to put bolts on with spacers, because I installed coilovers on which the crappy offset aftermarket wheels rubbed on. See isn't that fun? Took me a few weeks working on and off (the car is at my parents 1200 miles away)
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Jul 13, 2009 09:13
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A friend of mine and I dropped the Samurai tranny and transfer case from my '84 SJ410. Apparently the rear main seal was leaking, which caused the clutch disc to swell up, making shifting progressively harder, until finally the clutch seized in place, shredding the clutch cable. Since the tranny - transfer case driveshaft is custom made, this job was an incredible pain in the rear end. BTW - when this happened I was like 10 miles from my house, so I had to start it in first with the starter, and drive clutchless. Now if I could just get up the nerve to crack back into my languishing 318is.
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Jul 13, 2009 16:08
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A couple of months ago I was driving my brother's 1995 Acura Integra after replacing the rotten factory exhaust pipes new factory-style replacement parts when the timing belt started coming apart. In the process a piece of timing belt punched a hole in the valve cover trying to escape. I got the car pulled over right away and had it towed to my mom's house where I replaced the timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner, and water pump. I ordered a replacement valve cover on ebay and finally got it installed yesterday. Also yesterday I pulled the starter to replace the pitted and gouged contacts inside the solenoid. I put the fresh parts inside and put the starter back in and everything is hunky dori dori. I also guided my younger brother through his second oil change. It took a lot less guidance than the first time. I think he has gained a lot more confidence about automotive tasks from helping me change the timing belt.
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Jul 13, 2009 23:58
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I installed new Agent 47 mirrors on the Mustang to replace the stock dumbo ears. Hello new dremel tool! Also clay bared the bugs off the bumper. Once Koni ships me my yellows from back order ill be putting those on with my new J&M UCA, LCA, Vogtland Springs and Panhard Rod.
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Jul 14, 2009 00:06
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Didn't happen today. Few weeks back, thankfully the car did not hit the passenger door cause my gf was there.   At least my car is with other mustang
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Jul 14, 2009 00:16
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Torqued my transmission pan bolts to spec. The PO left them so loose I could unscrew them with my fingertips. No wonder it was weeping.
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Jul 14, 2009 02:28
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Wow, ive been constantly working on my sc300 these past few weeks. So far, i've: -Mounted new rear tires: Nitto NT05s 285/35/18 -Partially gutted the interior -Replaced my oem fuel pump with a Soarer pump -Installed my pioneer 7010BT head unit -Installed a new pioneer 10" sub on the stock location -Removed driver side window regulator, now looking for a replacement -Installed new exhaust gaskets As for tomorrow: -Install new throttle body -Replace old vacuum hoses with new silicone hoses -Take a brake from all this madness and concentrate on my summer class
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Jul 14, 2009 08:59
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Pushed it home when it broke down around the corner
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Jul 14, 2009 19:24
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Started dismantling the center console to get at a blown bulb, got stumped by a pair of stuck screws. Sprayed them with WD40 and drove to the store only to find that the bulbs I need are now made of unobtanium. Admitted defeat, popped the heater controls back together and drove home. At least I know why the PO didn't replace it. Tomorrow or maybe the day after, replacing the rear wheel bearings in my quest to track down a horrible grinding noise coming from the back of the car. jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 14, 2009 |
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Jul 14, 2009 19:37
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Installed new tie rod ends today. Tomorrow I get to put in the new sway bar end links and bushings assuming the bushings arrive on time.
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Jul 14, 2009 23:17
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Yelled and screamed at it trying to get the hood open with the broke cable. Still didn't get it. I'll mess with it more when I get back from Chicago in 2 weeks.
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Jul 15, 2009 02:56
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Changed the clutch and flywheel on the 3 cylinder Charade, getting it together for looking for a job
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Jul 15, 2009 02:57
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I pulled the exhaust off of my 1991 Mercury Tracer. I knew the flex pipe had gone bad, but it was a surprise to find that the midpipe was broken in two. In addition to this the muffler rattles like a maraca when shaken.      
PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 03:47
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1989 Chevrolet Celebrity wagon. This wasn't today but it was recently. I used to roll on these 14x6 basketweaves from a Cutlass Ciera GT: They weren't quite true, and would shimmy on the highway even after having them balanced.  So off they came, to be replaced by these MAD TYTE DUUUUUBBBBBZZZZZ DAWG:     Cost around $140 at Pic-A-Part, and I didn't even have to take them off of a car. They're 16x6.5, and are from a second gen Lumina. Kumho Ecsta AST 225/50R16 tires which cost more than the wheels did, $470. Braking is a lot better, ride quality is unaffected despite the tires being quite a bit shorter, and there is no rubbing, even at full lock in either direction.
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Jul 15, 2009 18:49
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Finally got some new wheels(Borbet Type XL, 18") + tires(225/45ZR18 General Exclaim UHP) to replace my OEM hub caps, and I swapped out the factory radio for something my ipod would get a long with (Pioneer FH-P8000BT):   
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Jul 16, 2009 02:19
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A 1-2 hour pads/rotors job became a six hour ordeal because in order to replace the fronts you had to disconnect the front calipers. I didn't want to bleed the brakes, but damnit we did. To make matters worse IPD didn't bother to send me the correct pads anyways.
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Jul 16, 2009 17:27
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King-Kong posted:Finally got some new wheels(Borbet Type XL, 18") + tires(225/45ZR18 General Exclaim UHP) to replace my OEM hub caps, and I swapped out the factory radio for something my ipod would get a long with (Pioneer FH-P8000BT): Your car is desperately asking to be lowered.
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Jul 16, 2009 19:02
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Cobb AccessPort. Surprisingly, stage 1 on a 09 WRX is a noticeable improvement!
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Jul 16, 2009 19:08
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King-Kong posted:Finally got some new wheels(Borbet Type XL, 18") + tires(225/45ZR18 General Exclaim UHP) to replace my OEM hub caps, and I swapped out the factory radio for something my ipod would get a long with (Pioneer FH-P8000BT): Looks good, man. Lower that thing and say hi to Indie for me. Tremblay posted:Cobb AccessPort. Surprisingly, stage 1 on a 09 WRX is a noticeable improvement! Stage 1 on my '05 LGT was a big improvement too, not so much for power but for the way it widened the powerband. I didn't see any mileage hit either, although I didn't see the mileage gains some people claim. Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 16, 2009 |
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Jul 16, 2009 19:37
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I finally decided to try and fix this bogging issue I had today with my car. Basically it'd run at whatever engine speed it wanted to until everything got warmed up after a few minutes, then I could do whatever I wanted. I smelled gas every time I tried hitting the pedal and it would bog, so I started there. I pulled a few spark plugs, seemed alright. Then I said gently caress it and decided to check my cap and rotor. Holy mother of god. I didn't even know it was possible to run with so much corrosion. I looked online for replacement. $70 on ebay?! $75 from pelicanparts? Let's see what Advance Auto Parts has them for..$80! I called to see if they were in stock. Nope. Typical. Next day though, I can't complain that bad. I figure I can sand down the cap and rotor for now while I have it off until I get another day off to replace it fully. The car still bogged, but much less. Today I got the new cap and rotor, some cheesy brand "BWD" I think. How bad could it be, seriously. I proceed to take off my old cap and rotor yet again. I got slowly frustrated with the cramped area, the 95 degree weather, my dogs barking, the rear end in a top hat neighbor mowing his lawn onto my ankles, and the people across the street getting a new roof. I try to save what I can of the old wires ($120 for a set  ). Rotor goes on fine, then I start to bolt on the cap. One bolt, fine. Second bolt..c'mon little lock washer get a little tighter... *CRACK* No...no. Please don't be what I think it is. Yup. Barely got it past finger tight before this cheap rear end chinese, NASCAR branded cap loving broke and took a plug wire nipple with it. I started it up regardless. It ran, but with a definitive miss. I called up Advance, and thankfully they're going to give me a replacement for free. Too bad it comes in tomorrow. I would have been screwed if this happened to a part I ordered online. A little long for something stupid, but I feel the vent necessary today. Edit: Picture for good measure of old cap. [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/9e6ac1497c3f9e131a2a92f972f4f77aa56955e9/t/IMG_0144[1].jpg[/img] fartingfool fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jul 16, 2009 |
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Jul 16, 2009 20:06
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Bud Manstrong posted:Stage 1 on my '05 LGT was a big improvement too, not so much for power but for the way it widened the powerband. I didn't see any mileage hit either, although I didn't see the mileage gains some people claim. The torque increase was very nice 1-3k. Doing pulls in 3rd, you really know when the turbo has spooled. I'll probably keep it there since just a CBE doesn't make a whole lot of sense (from what I've read). I'd like to not have warranty issues  . Do you uninstall before heading to the dealership or ?
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Jul 16, 2009 20:15
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fartingfool posted:
Christ, resize that size that poo poo.
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Jul 16, 2009 20:16
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Tremblay posted:The torque increase was very nice 1-3k. Doing pulls in 3rd, you really know when the turbo has spooled. I'll probably keep it there since just a CBE doesn't make a whole lot of sense (from what I've read). I'd like to not have warranty issues Depends on what they're doing. If you're just taking it in for oil changes/tire rotations, don't bother. I probably wouldn't even bother for the big maintenance (30, 60, etc.) unless you're throwing a code or they have some other reason to check your ECU. If you get a recall or TSB notice about any ECU updates - there have been a couple for the LGT, don't know about the new WRX - then I'd unmarry it before I take it in. CBE ... eh. I don't think the '09 WRX has a catted up-pipe, so don't bother replacing that. The next step in the powertrain upgrade path is probably downpipe and midpipe, either catless or high-flow cat depending on where you live and what you want to do. Mufflers are primarily a sound issue, and some guys just upgrade the exhaust and leave the stock mufflers on.
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Jul 16, 2009 20:40
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Bud Manstrong posted:Depends on what they're doing. If you're just taking it in for oil changes/tire rotations, don't bother. I probably wouldn't even bother for the big maintenance (30, 60, etc.) unless you're throwing a code or they have some other reason to check your ECU. If you get a recall or TSB notice about any ECU updates - there have been a couple for the LGT, don't know about the new WRX - then I'd unmarry it before I take it in. Yeah if I do exhaust I'd do a catted DP with it. If that happens it will be after the warranty has run out. This car had plenty of power before. With the current flash I'm more than happy. Previous vehicle was a slushbox 01 sunfire. HUGE difference .
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Jul 16, 2009 20:58
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Bud Manstrong posted:Looks good, man. Lower that thing and say hi to Indie for me. Indie's appearance was used solely to weed out those in-the-know! By the way, we need to get our trivia on. Wamsutta posted:Your car is desperately asking to be lowered. Yeah -- Nissan made these things comically high - it's on my wish list. But from what I've seen, there isn't much available aftermarket. Just a couple of spring kits, but don't those trash the suspension over time?
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Jul 16, 2009 21:11
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Its a really, really bad idea to use wire nuts in any sort of automotive application. They will work loose, and you will short poo poo out. You need to replace those with proper crimp connectors ASAP.
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Jul 16, 2009 21:24
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Not technically today, but this week at least. Finally pulled the transfer case from my e30, and tore apart the shifter in preparation for a Z3 shift rod and new bushings all around, including delrin replacements for the terrible stock rubber. It's amazing how many BMW required "special tools" can be replaced with a flathead screwdriver or a big fuckoff pipe wrench.   
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Jul 16, 2009 22:35
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 Got rid of a leaking hub last night that I've been putting off for a few months. Jacked up the Hummer and knocked off the idler arm, and removed the steering arm/CTIS shield from the geared hub.  It's a portal axle gearbox, so this the shield for the bottom part where the airline goes in, there's 2 seals. A spindle seal to keep the tire air pressure separate from the gear oil, and using gasketmaker, a gasket around the mating surface of the shield. Unfortunately for me there was hardly any around the surface. I took the ring clip out and couldn't knock out the spindle seal. Figured I wasn't using a big enough hammer so I pulled out ye ole 15 lb mallet. It came out with one small tap.  Starting the clean up, you can see where the spindle CTI seal did it's job. The bit with surface rust was air, then you have the seal which keeps the gear oil from working its way into the air compressor system. This is why CTI and beach air isn't a good combination    New seal and gasket, I used to be a bit timid with the gasketmaker, but after watching a few factory AM general techs working on suspension parts at a few workshops, they just pile it on the geared hubs, you don't want to break it down again with another leak. (You can see where the leak was at the lower ball joint area which is full of gear oil, grease and dirt)  About to use a torque wrench to rebolt everything back together. Once tight, I tossed some silicon pipe sealant on the airline threads and wrenched it back. No more air/oil leaks on the wheel! Now to head to the recycling center and drop off all my used oil and gear lube. Also did a oil/fuel filter service. Had to switch grease in the middle of lubrication and now my grease gun won't prime
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 19, 2009 |
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Jul 19, 2009 19:48
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King-Kong posted:Wait, someone is actually stupid enough to use wire nuts on a car? Jesus.
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Jul 19, 2009 19:52
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Baby Hitler posted:Wait, someone is actually stupid enough to use wire nuts on a car? Jesus. Last time I saw something like that was a truck with a siren/PA system on it. It was wired directly with speaker wire and wire nuts with no relays. Nothing like a few amps going through a dashboard switch. 
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Jul 19, 2009 19:58
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