Powershift posted:

I found their e-mail on a complaint website and we went back and forth a few times this morning, They've accepted fault and will accept the return and cover shipping but...

The water pump and tensioner pulley work and are already on the car. after shipping, a water pump and pulley alone are more than the price of the kit.

There is nowhere near me that has a water pump or pulley available, Toyota is getting me a timing belt for $77 but the pulley is $380 in their system and not available anyways. The only parts store with a timing belt in their system also had a part number ending in 070 which would be the 4ac belt.


They did the right thing. It's still going to cost me a little more but i'll have a genuine toyota timing belt on it. It would have been a little cheaper overall getting the right parts the first time but I'm happy with the resolution.


I probably didn't even need to replace the water pump but it looks like it was double gasket anyways. The coolant passages i can see, and the old coolant and subsequent flushes look fine. Definitely not toyota red though.




The tensioner pulley was gummed up with belt schmoo so definitely has to go.

Because i've got both power steering and A/C, getting into this stuff is hell and i'd rather not do it again any time soon if i can help it.

This is the last timing cover bolt AFTER removing 3/4 power steering bracket bolts and rotating it out of the way a bit. The 4th bolt would require removal of the A/C compressor.



I knew the car would be an adventure, but drat.

At least with the Lincoln, half the parts were shared with 3 decades of f-250s and various cars. and there's only one variant.


tl:dr: Rock auto made right. Car hopefully on the road this week for the first time since George W Bush was president.

Powershift posted:

Powershift posted:

I've never heard of them, but a quick look for stuff on my list, most of it isn't available Even basic stuff like spark plug wires and coolant hoses

It's probably good to get part numbers for interchange though. There are a lot of ae86 specific sites that do have stuff at ridiculous mark-ups.

It does have an air filter for $6 which is nice because they're oddly hard to find and expensive when found.

It also does give a part number for the Jan 87+ accessory belt which was a headache. Just on the three belts would have saved me $100.


Seems like a good tool to have in the tool belt.

KakerMix posted:

Took delivery and washed, polished and waxed it, it will look nice for 12-13 hours.

His Divine Shadow posted:

Last night I finally welded up the rust hole in the mazda 6. I notice where it rusted out there is a hole on the bottom/side that will let water and crap into the beam structure, but I can see no drain hole. When I cut away the rust I had so much debris logged in there, no wonder it rusted out. But why! Why have those holes there?

His Divine Shadow posted:

Last night I finally welded up the rust hole in the mazda 6. I notice where it rusted out there is a hole on the bottom/side that will let water and crap into the beam structure, but I can see no drain hole. When I cut away the rust I had so much debris logged in there, no wonder it rusted out. But why! Why have those holes there?

Also I wonder if I am really bad at welding or if I can start blaming my mig welder, but it sure turned out ugly lumpy mess even after I ground down the worst. The welder is so inconsistent from weld to weld. I wonder if the ground cable is broken still, I've gone through the handle and cleaned out the liner and got new rollers for the feeder, it feeds very well. I cut off a part of the ground cable when I got it as it looked to be in bad shape but maybe the whole cable needs replacing. Or it's just me.

Using straight co2 might get some blame but I didn't do much better with mixgas, I think they act similar enough.

His Divine Shadow posted:

Last night I finally welded up the rust hole in the mazda 6. I notice where it rusted out there is a hole on the bottom/side that will let water and crap into the beam structure, but I can see no drain hole. When I cut away the rust I had so much debris logged in there, no wonder it rusted out. But why! Why have those holes there?

Also I wonder if I am really bad at welding or if I can start blaming my mig welder, but it sure turned out ugly lumpy mess even after I ground down the worst. The welder is so inconsistent from weld to weld. I wonder if the ground cable is broken still, I've gone through the handle and cleaned out the liner and got new rollers for the feeder, it feeds very well. I cut off a part of the ground cable when I got it as it looked to be in bad shape but maybe the whole cable needs replacing. Or it's just me.

Using straight co2 might get some blame but I didn't do much better with mixgas, I think they act similar enough.

StormDrain posted:

Do you have the polarity correct? Might be worth doublechecking. This is me posting as a guy who did this once and was so confused when welding as nothing was wrong the way I'm used to it being wrong.

Darchangel posted:

Weather was nice and I had a three-day weekend. Time to work on something! I chose to fiddle with the AE86, since I got in the parts I needed.

First up is the phenolic carb spacer I bought to hopefully ease the dieseling the thing does on shutdown, presumably due to the intake and therefore the carb sitting right on top of the exhaust manifold. Like, literally (non-crossflow head.)
Before:


gently caress you, Weber:

Couldn't have made the base a little wider, or the damned filter flange a little smaller, eh?

Then there's this bolt:


Which lives under the accelerator pump, among other things:

That's also going to make it entertaining to install the 12mm longer bolts needed for the spacer.

Got 'em all out, though.


Note the slightly tapered hole, to accommodate the larger secondary bore versus the primary. Mainly means you have to get the gaskets and the spacer on the right way around.

Spacer successfully installed.

I was just able to get the longer bolt in that one corner. If not, I would have cut a bolt down to a stud and used that. One annoyance - locally-available M8 bolts are, of course, 13mm head size rather than the correct 12mm. I hate that.

Once that was done. I moved on to attempting to tune this pig.
I followed directions from Redline (purveyors of this carb) which noted several things you could easily screw up, which is nice. One of the main ones is setting the idle stop too high so that the throttle blades uncover the transfer slot, which completely bypasses the idle mixture circuit. I though I had it right, but cranking the idle mix all the way closed, the car continued to idle, so obviously I had that wrong, or something else was wonky.
I actually left that for another day. that next day, I made absolutely sure the idle stop was at 1 turn from contact, and additionally pulled the idle jets to check them.

Initially I thought the primary idle jet was unmarked and sized it with some tiny drill bits:

but "0.6mm fits and 0.8mm doesn't" still left a pretty wide range of jet sizes it could be. Eventually, I cleaned it with a brass wire brush and was able to make out the very lightly stamped jet size:



60 would be correct for the default jetting on an out-of-the-box DGEV, according to what I found on Ye Olde Internette.
That should also mean the secondary idle jet was 50, but that one truly was unmarked.

Per the idle circuit tuning procedure (idle didn't clear up until 2-1/2+ turns out), the 60 was too lean, which was a surprise to me. I actually had to go up two sizes to a 70 to get the best idle between 1-3/4 and 2-1/4 turns, and it is definitely better. Less stinky, too, so I guess that was from being too lean rather than rich. It never did belch black smoke, so that tracks, I guess.

Box o' jets:


Changing the secondary idle jet to larger seemed to make it worse, so I left that at what was in there, though I had to do some "machining" to make the jets fully seat in the holder:





The idle jets are accessible externally, which is very nice. Main jets are down in the float bowl. You can do these on the car, however. The Weber design means you can just pop the top off of the carb with 6 screws and releasing the choke linkage. Before I get into that, though, Id like to know what it's actually doing, so I previously bought an AEM 30-0300 wideband O2 guage/controller and sensor kit.

Sensor on the 4AC is fairly easy to access, at least:

That's the right side engine mount and steering rack lurking underneath. Don't even have to jack up the car, though there is this power steering pump bracket in the way of accessing it directly from the front on mine. This is where the bracket was (the three clean bolt bosses)

(O2 is behind it looking from the front, O2 off to the left in this picture.) The car was converted to a manual rack by the PO, so I just finally had a reason to delete the bracket, I guess.
Nice straight access:


Of course, neither of the O2 sockets I had would fit due to the proximity of the two bolts in the mounting plate, there, so I had to undo those wo nuts and take the whole thing to the vise to get the O2 out.



Thankfully, it came off easily, and didn't leak when I put it back. O2 came out nicely, too - an advantage mounting it in steel rather than the cast iron directly, I suppose.

I cobbled a cigarette light plug onto the harness for the gauge/controller,

and found a convenient grommet to pass the harness for the sensor into the car, and hooked it all up:


Velcro plus carpet dash cover make for easy mounting and cable management!

It all fired up, and after a moment to let the sensor heat up (during which time the gauge says "heat" and the LEDs around the perimeter count up to done) I got a reading for idle:

It was fluctuating, but around about 13. Not bad. A little rich at idle, but ~*carburetor*~, so not outrageous.

Varying the throttle in neutral didn't look too bad:
http://i.imgur.com/NClBa2B.mp4

Not as wildly as I had assumed. In fact, seemed lean when I got the secondary to open...

This was confirmed with a test drive:
https://i.imgur.com/yN9C8Dx.mp4
(there is sound in both of these videos. Handy for hearing the shift points in the test drive.)

So, yeah, needs a little more primary and maybe a lot more secondary. That would explain why it was accelerating better with less pedal that flooring it. It was gong way lean with the additional air from the secondary. I ran out of time, but eventually I'll need to open it up and see what's in there. Stock jets on the carb should be 140/140. The kit has a 145, 150, and 155. Hope that will be enough. I've read that the primary and secondary should be the same or within 5 of each other.

Onward and upward.

While I was fiddling with the carb, I also went to change out the wiper blades, and decided I couldn't stand the rusty wiper arms any more.
Pulled the driver's side arm (with the aid of a small gear puller) and noticed:


Huh.

Does that mean...
Yeah.



Well, that would explain why the arms had previously contacted the hood (note the huge gouge in the pot metal.)


They are definitely different:


Some wire wheeling and sandpaper later:


primer:


paint:


Gouges sanded out relatively smooth:


Certainly less noticeable when all black.

Nut storage:

[spoiler[this is mainly to remind myself where I put them when I inevitably can't find them later[/spoiler]

The PO-installed (as I recall - I don't *think* I replaced them, though if I did, I just measured what was there) were two seperate sizes:


Rock Auto spec'd (2) 18" blades, so that's what I got. Looks like what was there was 17" and 19", possibly because of the arms being incorrect?
I guess I'll see when I put them back, after the paint cures a couple days.

A reasonably fulfilling venture, on the whole.

His Divine Shadow posted:

Last night I finally welded up the rust hole in the mazda 6. I notice where it rusted out there is a hole on the bottom/side that will let water and crap into the beam structure, but I can see no drain hole. When I cut away the rust I had so much debris logged in there, no wonder it rusted out. But why! Why have those holes there?

Also I wonder if I am really bad at welding or if I can start blaming my mig welder, but it sure turned out ugly lumpy mess even after I ground down the worst. The welder is so inconsistent from weld to weld. I wonder if the ground cable is broken still, I've gone through the handle and cleaned out the liner and got new rollers for the feeder, it feeds very well. I cut off a part of the ground cable when I got it as it looked to be in bad shape but maybe the whole cable needs replacing. Or it's just me.

Using straight co2 might get some blame but I didn't do much better with mixgas, I think they act similar enough.

Motronic posted:

That's a really good point. If that used to be a flux core box it's probably set to DCEN and a mig torch should be positive.

Darchangel posted:

Lazily quoting myself in my own thread.
TL, DR:
re-jetted and adjusted idle on the Corolla's Weber, still need to do the main jets (too lean, as it turns out) and painted the rusty wiper arms.
It idles much better now, at least.

StormDrain posted:

Do you have the polarity correct? Might be worth doublechecking. This is me posting as a guy who did this once and was so confused when welding as nothing was wrong the way I'm used to it being wrong.

PhotoKirk posted:

I paid $10 to ship two screws.


Stupid Toyota uses stupid M3.5 screws for the stupid rear wiper blade on 3rd Gen 4Runners. $2.50 for the screws, $10 for shipping.


Stupid Toyota.

Night Danger Moose posted:

Hit me up next time, I'll get them for you cheaper and without ludicrous shipping. (This goes to anyone who wants Toyota oem stuff.)

KakerMix posted:

All Toyota parts or just USDM stuff?

Night Danger Moose posted:

Probably just USDM stuff unless you got a part number but I can try to research on parstouq or something.

Powershift posted:

coooooooool.

Pretty much everywhere that sells this kit has it listed as the correct part for the car, it is not, i don't know what combination of answers you have to give rockauto for them to correct it, but i apparently did not guess them. There is no way to contact them, they have no customer service. There doesn't even seem to be a way to report an incorrectly listed part.

They're just an absolute last resort now, i guess. I can still use the water pump and belt tensioner so it's only a ~$50 lesson.

Night Danger Moose posted:

Hit me up next time, I'll get them for you cheaper and without ludicrous shipping. (This goes to anyone who wants Toyota oem stuff.)

Night Danger Moose posted:

Hit me up next time, I'll get them for you cheaper and without ludicrous shipping. (This goes to anyone who wants Toyota oem stuff.)

afen posted:

more like what my car did to me today!

https://va.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_s9boujV8N21a4kan9_720.mp4

StormDrain posted:

Just a simple oil change. I write the date and mileage on the filter with a sharpie. The one I took off said FEB 25.

I changed my process to include the year.

His Divine Shadow posted:

I've never written anything on the filter. I always write things down in the service book.

Infact I just ordered a customized notebook for me to write all my service stuff in because the factory one is now filled up. On the inside back cover I put a table for oil changes. 17 rows should be enough I hope.