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Wamsutta posted:loving awesome. I need to get some cash saved up to add K-Pro + 3" pulley + water/meth injection to my boosted TSX. Nooooo don't do it yet! Pay off the car first or get it pro tuned before you get more power adders. I know the power is intoxicating but you gotta put first things first.
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Jul 3, 2009 21:06
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 11:10 |
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Doctor Zero posted:Er... when i drove through there on I-80 you could just turn the wheel and drift out over the salt flats any time you like (well, okay, you'd want to slow down a bit). I don't know if it's legal or not, but ... Yeah, there's not really any curb or anything:  Though I probably wouldn't drive off at anything faster than 10 mph, given the many rocks out before the real salt.
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Jul 24, 2009 03:35
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trouser chili posted:
I hope you drove in some wild goose chase route back home to make sure no one followed you.
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Jul 28, 2009 19:43
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Coredump posted:Is this a Forrester? Why does it look so badass? Before the wreck obviously. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Stagea
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Sep 3, 2009 05:34
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Aquatic Daredevil posted:B-b-but.. it's not all about power!! Maybe you should submit some video of a similarly supercharged ED for the jury to decide. I love the sound of a roots blower; I can't imagine how loud it would have to be for it to be annoying.
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Sep 3, 2009 08:17
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Replaced a burnt bulb in my 190E. A task made enormously easy by Mercedes' tail lamp design: All of the bulbs are on a platter that mates up to the back of the colored plastic of the lamps. Untwist two locks, and the platter comes off. A single harness plugs into the platter, which would probably make debugging electrical problems a touch easier. Not to mention all the bulbs use a common ground. Replacing the bulb reminded me of putting a gem in a socketed item in Diablo.
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Oct 9, 2009 08:35
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DogDodger posted:The Forge DV is back in, and the noise is gone. Are you done with the AWE DV1, or do you think you'll try to ask them if it might be defective?
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Oct 29, 2009 21:19
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Replaced the plugs today. The old ones look ok, right?    The bit of grit on the electrode of the first one is from me pulling it out awkwardly. I tried my best not to do that when putting the new ones in.
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Dec 3, 2009 23:14
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Skyssx posted:No and no, but to remove the bar would also require dropping the whole engine, etc, solving the issue of no access to the fastner. It's not that convolutedly shaped, is it? You could sawzall it out it segment by segment.
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Dec 7, 2009 05:13
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Threw some Dunlops on my car today. It's state inspection time and this time the guy said I'd have to perfunctorily address the metal sticking out of the front of my car. He said he'd let me go with tennis balls popped on top of the metal. Also took the piggyback chip off my ECU, which in the Focus in located here:   Thanks to no interior in the way, I skipped about 80% of the steps.  The chip is an old SCT Red unit, which is from the era just before they figured out flashing the EEC-Vs. I know it was making some difference, because the engine response to throttle tip-in is now garbage. But what I'm really hoping for is that the stock ECU now talks to Massachusetts' OBD scan test correctly. Something was blocking all readouts of O2 and cat performance, which caused my emissions to get rejected by default. The shop has to follow up with the RMV, too, since the test was emailed or uploaded straight to them, with no chance for me to fix it and come back to the shop.
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Dec 19, 2009 19:07
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ExecuDork posted:Why is there metal sticking out the front of your car? supports for the rally lights, and a tow hook.
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Dec 19, 2009 20:16
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Cablekid posted:I'm not trying to bag on your car or anything I'm just genuinely curious about something, but your shift lever looks like an automatic yet it has the shifter boot traditionally associated with a manual transmission to me. Some cars put a boot around their automatic shifters. No big deal.
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Dec 28, 2009 01:49
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Drove it for 100 miles just to pass emissions. MA's state inspection for OBD-II vehicles now just requires 4 of the 5 emissions diagnostics to report 'good.' Since I had a piggyback chip on my ECU, it was blocking those diagnostic signals from the reader, so I failed the first test. When I took the chip off, I of course unhooked the battery. But that meant the ECU had 0 recorded miles on it, and not enough info for the diagnostics. So I had to drive past Nashua and back to get 100 miles on the clock. The techs told me 50 mi should be enough, but I've heard 100 elsewhere. Didn't want to take a risk if I was gonna do it in one shot. I wish we just had the old sniffer tests 
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Jan 14, 2010 06:19
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Screw the sniffers tests. Having to change out my chip for an emissions chip in the Buick was a pain. Now I'm in and out in like 5 minutes. I do finally have an OBDII truck though :\ I took it back and passed emissions, but the central office told the shop that inspection "could not proceed." That is, the server put my inspection into a status where I have to take the car into one of the main inspection stations (usually for commercial vehicles. The techs suspected it's because it looks suspicious that the car went from emissions functions not even reporting to all good. Probably would have went by just fine if I had had bad numbers for some of the functions.
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Jan 17, 2010 23:23
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PBCrunch posted:Grr. So your brother finally convinced you to trade cars, hunh?
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May 10, 2010 00:50
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I replaced the burnt out remote radio controls. The S2000 uses a weird power setup for the Mute button, and frequently when people install aftermarket head units, they wire it up wrong and cause the mute to be permanently on. The PO disconnected the entire harness to the radio controls to get around this, but I wanted to get the functionality back, since the stock head unit doesn't do variable volume by speed. The next best thing is an easier way to change the volume when the wind noise picks up. This is what the remote radio controls assembly looks like:  And there is where it goes on the dash:  The entire silver dash bezel moves at as a unit, and as you can see, it's blocked by the steering column and stalk controls. I tried a week back to get the bezel off without moving the steering column, defying the advice from the references online. This time, I went by the book. First thing was to disconnect the battery. Going under the dash, there are 2 sets of bolts. This is looking at the rear pair:  Note the black air-conditioning plastic manifold hanging off of the yoke. A closeup:  Prying off the black plastic brad gets the manifold unhooked and out of the way, to let you access the bolts. These bolts need to be loosened almost all the way off. If the camera is swung up more, looking straight under the dash, there's 2 more bolts:  These are revealed once you unscrew the lower steering column cover. These you unscrew once the lower bolts have been loosened -- the effect is that the steering column drops by a few inches as it settles back down onto the loosened yoke:  Now the dash bezel can much more easily be pulled out, given easy access to the radio controls from the rear. I plugged in the new one, buttoned everything back up, and bam, they were working again. Finally, while cleaning up, I found this under the seat:   Good going, PO.
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May 23, 2010 21:41
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PBCrunch posted:I jacked up the driver's rear corner and spun the wheel. It made a terrible sound and then kind of stopped. Does your parking brake still work? The same thing happened to me and it was because the backing plate to the drum had rusted out. I'd check just to make sure there isn't more damage.
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Jun 11, 2010 18:41
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PBCrunch posted:It worked yesterday. I think something got out of shape when I was beating the rotor hat with a hammer breaking it loose from the hub. A misplaced whack of the hammer also popped a wheel stud out. I reseated the stud, but the back end of the stud may have broken some stuff loose in the parking brake system. I don't recall anything really being rusty while I was back there. Arg, for the life of me I can't find the picture of the thing that fell out. I'm pretty sure it was the #8 part seen here: http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=chrysler&t_id=1069&id_pic=6759 The pinging rattle I heard was the #8 bouncing around in there, and the loud grinding that suddenly flared up was the #9 pin grinding under the brake shoe. I'm wondering if the clip you found was #8.
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Jun 11, 2010 19:09
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Which wheels are those? They look like one of the wheels that comes on the 2011 V6 Stang.
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Jul 6, 2010 08:08
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Bojanglesworth posted:Is there a name for that style of editing, where it kinda snaps to a shot? I have seen it a bunch in car videos. Snaps? You mean where there's no screen transition? That's the most basic way to switch shots.
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Jul 19, 2010 02:58
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CornHolio posted:I opened her hood to get to the brake fluid reservoir and noticed the supercharger is without a belt. In fact, the belt was missing. Did she say if the car seemed to be lacking power?
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Aug 30, 2010 06:42
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Black88GTA posted:
How bad is that? I have no idea.
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Oct 28, 2010 08:09
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Looks like I'm gonna need to do a little cleaning up.
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Put a bigger and tinted aeroscreen on. It's supposed to keep air from enturbulating all in the cabin area. It was windy today, but I only took it up to about 45 mph after installing it. It seemed to improve wind noise, which is what I was shooting for.
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Oct 28, 2010 17:50
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Got to  69000: And swapped on my snow wheels, which are the stock ones:  I dunno how I feel about the red S symbols on the centercaps, but they're consistent with everything else.
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Nov 14, 2010 04:30
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Covered my car for it to sit in my driveway this winter. I learned a long hard lesson in buying cheap rear end cars this year. Bought a $1,000 DSM with "only a few things wrong with it." Those few things turned out to be about $1,000 in parts I put in myself. And it still can't drive, since I found out it has a blown head gasket. Not to mention its rusty as poo poo. And unemployment hosed me over so I won't even have money for a month or two. At the time you said you wanted something, anything, to get to work, and people said you'd probably want something more reliable than an abused DSM for that.
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Dec 6, 2010 02:33
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awesome-express posted:
I guess you don't have to worry about the engine overheating now.
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Dec 14, 2010 12:19
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You were still on your autocross tires, were you?
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Jan 24, 2011 01:22
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sk8bored posted:No, Lotus did that the factory. I assume cuz the heat might eventually anneal and harden the swaybar?
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Feb 13, 2011 21:18
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It's winter here, but it's no longer so cold than 40W should be a problem, I imagine. Following the bangup caused by snow/ice falling here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3388073&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post387963972 I got my hood "straight" again:  Just hammered up under the hood until things popped themselves out. The fenders are still busted, but you can see my genius paintwork on the right side dent there. Truly the beauty of having a beater -- you can shrug this stuff off and it doesn't burn your soul one bit.
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Feb 21, 2011 22:39
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After a huge water blister formed under my paint, I had to pop it. It was calling out to me. Caused this to the paint: Not caring about this car (I mean, you can still see the half-finished patch on the center of the hood), I just peeled back all the paint, scuffed it with a fine-ish grit, and gave it 3 coats of spray paint. Came out really well, to my surprise:  It beaded that rain pretty well. The color doesn't look nearly as off in real life. There's only one Ford white paint at Autozone, and that one was worse. This is some GM white that's a bit closer. I wish I lived in a better neighborhood in Boston; I could scandalize more yuppies and alienate more hipsters that way.
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Mar 17, 2011 23:47
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Huggable Bear King posted:I'm pretty sure the color you need is "performance white" My Grand Marquis is the same color. There's not really any rust on this car, which is surprising, given its use for over 130k by some NH police department, and then 50k more by the really shady PO who put that mileage on in 8 months, driving all over New England. When I got it, there were patches of exposed body metal all over that had no rust on them. The quality of modern car metals, I guess.
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Mar 18, 2011 06:19
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MATLAB 1988 posted:The W123 looks a little goofy as a hardtop coupe. I think the proportions are superior to its contemporary hardtops.
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Mar 18, 2011 22:31
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Got a misfire code for cylinder 5 a few days a go. Fortunately, this is where the coil is on cylinder 5: All the other ones take more effort to remove. This one is the least work. I ordered an aftermarket replacement for $15 and on it went. No codes have come up and it sounds normal, so I think it's good. I didn't have any dielectric grease to seal the outside of the boot, so I'm running that risk 
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May 24, 2011 15:40
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Muffinpox posted:I also have JDM duct tape on the soft top tear. Aftermarket black Gorilla tape is way better.
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May 30, 2011 20:31
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Wow, they call it a VRX in some places? That's a bit desperate.
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Jun 3, 2011 02:17
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Muffinpox posted:Well mr. Pussy, send me an e-mail to muffinpox@gmail.com and we can meet there! Prepare for bizarre trucking fanfics and offers of "trying out this shift knob"
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Jun 3, 2011 03:47
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tobu posted:drat, I thought Americans and English also used the term 'get fair up the bitch'. There's "got all up in that bitch" for Americans, but I dunno that I would understand to mean hauling rear end if you said that about a car.
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Jun 4, 2011 00:59
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daslog posted:As I recall, it was a Mallory conversion and it would misfire after 20 minutes. Something to do with ballast. I'll have to look into it some more. Iirc, dalabast of the swap Mustang Mach 1 fame had an issue where his MSD coil wires were leaking radio waves that was loving with his Pertronix.
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Jun 6, 2011 23:48
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One of the headlight adjustment screw covers must have popped off from the headlight housing, so I ordered a replacment: Hmmm, I was expecting a little envelope or something. Oh ok:  Some serious packaging overkill.
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Jun 19, 2011 19:23
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 11:10 |
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ZombieLicker posted:Why don't more car companies have this!?
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Jun 25, 2011 17:20
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