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MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

That's a really nice interior.

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MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

88h88 posted:

May I ask what such beauty sells for these days? :o

What model is it?

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Not today, but over that last weeks: Bought it (2009 Alfa Romeo Mi.To - really good looking and fun car. Girlfriend fell in love and I couldn't say no), changed all the fluids since I don't trust random dealers to know poo poo about Alfas. Did some preventive mods / retrofits and fixed the rear washer. It's an imported car that some Greek doctor took with him when he moved to Sweden, and it's only been here for 1 winter which means absolutely no rust at all. Not too many miles and a 155hp turbo petrol engine in a car that weighs < 1200kg makes it pretty spirited.

The rear washer hose had disconnected and some lazy dealer / garage probably gave up instantly and plugged it with a screw. The other end was loose above the pedals. It was a squeeze, but easy fix.

I suspected aftermarket dampers (since they were yellow) and I finally went through all the receipts and other papers again and found instructions for adjusting the dampers, so that's the next project. Would like a bit softer ride for city driving.
Might get FSBs in the future. Hello moneypit.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Really nice looking GTV6. I can't wait for one to show up in my area. But it'll probably be expensive as poo poo when it does.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Spent all drat day trying to dry out the carpets in temperatures around freezeing. I think I know where the leak is coming from. Could be that water gets in below the scuttle panel, then drips into the fresh air intake (stupid design) but doesn't go down the airway. Instead I think the water soaks through the gasket and gets in on the cabin part of the firewall close to the A pillar. It fits location wise, but I do wonder how it can get so wet from that. The only explaination is that it's been accumulating for months and symstoms started showing once the sound deadening / felt mats under the floor lining were saturated (god they hold so much water).

So now I'm constructing some poo poo to try to prevent further leaks. I really hope this is the solution because this is really loving boring to deal with.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Now I'm properly scared of suspension springs. :ohdear:

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
You make me jealous every time you post that car. How does it handle winter and cold temperatures?

Only a few more years then I'll get one...

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

DoLittle posted:

It is not very good in freezing conditions because the heated air can only be directed trough two circular outlets on top of and/or below the dashboard. The air vents at the both ends of the dashboard are only for cold air and they are directly connected to the fresh air inlet in front of the windshield. There are these plastic flaps that can close the vents, but they always leak and there is no way to direct heated air to them. So it takes really long time to melt left and right edges of the windshield and the side windows. They also tend freeze again while driving if passengers speak or breath too much. :) In my car there is no heat or noise insulation either, which makes it a bit worse.

It is possible to make warm and eliminate above the issues, but I haven't got around to it because it requires removal of the dashboard (not that difficult):
- Clean the heater core from possible debris
- Check that the flaps that direct the air flow close and seal well
- Block the direct cold air flow to the nozzles at the ends of the dashboard and install flex-hoses inside the dash that direct warm air from the heater plenum to the nozzles.

Windshield wiper motor and washer pump are also on weak side at least in my car and the wipers only operate at one speed. Originally they had three (intermittent, low, high).

Starting in cold weather is a not a problem. Limited slip diff and studded tyres help a lot on snow and ice.

Cool. My only hope is that they don't shoot up in prices while I sort out other things. Can't really justify getting one right now.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Cool as the 4-cyl can be, I have my heart set on the Busso V6 because my god does it sound great and I've never owned anything with more than 4 cylinders:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTqX0J6Dp5g

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Edit: wrong thread

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jan 31, 2017

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

the spyder posted:

It got a car cover. I found a importer willing to import anything I send them a OEM part number for. So far it's worked on hatch struts, brake caliper brackets, and this car cover.



Be very careful putting it on / removing it. Car covers are car scratch heaven.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

dissss posted:

Question for paint and panel goons.

I've just got my car back from a nightmare of a bumper replacement and I;m not overly happy with how the colour matches the car.





Full sized here http://imgur.com/a/bJ57d (not sure you'll even be able to tell a difference, it's hard to photograph and doesn't show very well on all screens)

What can be done in the situation? Should it be blended somehow, or should I demand they try and paint the whole thing again? It is an insurance job, but insurance companies here are notoriously stingy so it'll only be fixed if I do a lot of complaining.

Has the original panels been polished? It usually helps if the old panels are polished.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Aren't aftermarket LEDs almost always utter poo poo for both the user and oncoming traffic?

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Changed the rear wheel hubs yesterday. In the back of my mind I knew that I'd need a rewind tool when it came to putting back the brakes, but was absent minded when and bought a normal pressing tool... so had to drive 1½ hours to get one.. But it all worked out great. The car is quieter and seems to return better MPG now. I was going to change the top strut mount bearings at the front as well, but hit a snag. Not only did I not really have the right socket (so had to file off to falt sides on a 19mm socket), but the motherfucker sits hard as gently caress. So time ran out. Not something I have to get done asap, but I've heard the symptoms a few times.

My whole loving body is aching from this.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Put in a CD changer Bluetooth adapter that I got for like 30 bucks. Best investment in a long time. Going from silence/bad radio stations to having Spotify starting on my phone by just pushing "next track" on the steering wheel is a godsend. I have missed having my own music. Added bonus is that I now can take phone calls, so I don't have to stop and call up to ask if it was important.

Only weird thing is that some songs, mainly downloaded from YouTube, mess with the satellite speakers to give off a buzz at high treble, not dependent on volume in the way that the buzz is there at any volume but still louder/quieter depending on volume. Encoding of the songs that messing it up, maybe?

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Replaced the rear torque gearbox mount as well as the sway bar end link. Now my gear shifts are back to normal, and the sway bar end links were really dead. Now the car doesn't go clunkclunkclunkclunk over every drat little roughness in the road. Well worth it.
But laying down on cold rear end concrete for hours sucks rear end.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

kastein posted:

This is why I bought a 300 dollar mounting machine and a 250 dollar balancing machine. The only time I see the inside of a tire shop is bringing my old rubber to be recycled now.

It's hard work on my ancient mounting machine but a little elbow grease should fix that up and even if not, I could use the exercise and I know no one is loving it up but me.

Yeah this is probably going to be a buy in the future. I swapped to summer tires yesterday and fair enough they didn't charge extra for buying tires online (deal with the online retailer) but still had to pay $120 to have them mounted, balanced and fit on the car. Didn't like how the rims were all dirty, scuff marks on the interior (had one rim in the back seat of 2-door car). My dad will be buying the same tires for his V70. He'll be paying at least $200 for the pleasure of buying the tires from the tire place.
Oh and they filled the tires to 2.9, 2.8 in the rear, 2.6 and 2.7 in the front (should be 2.3 front, 2.1 rear). I was thinking "drat this feels harsh and bumpy". Yeah no wonder...

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Apr 14, 2018

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
All that tool talk made me jealous of US Tool prices / deals. I just got a Bosch Blue Professional drill/driver 10.8 volt kit. Next in line will be an impact wrench when I can afford it. The impact drill will be amazing for all those drat screws / small bolts that are littered everywhere in cars. I do have an air impact wrench, so not a huge deal.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Speaking of PO fuckery: Installs Koni dampeners but tightens the top bolts so loving hard it's impossible to get the top mounts off, meaning a simple top mount swap now has to go to the mechanic. Hopefully I can get an alignment a bit cheaper when I get it done though. Also installs new brake pads but cuts the brake wear sensor cable (don't really care about this one, but still).

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Hah, buying a $150 car in Sweden that actually works and (more importantly) actually passes inspection is quite a feat. Nice!

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Spend 3½ hours changing gearbox and engine oil + teaching GF to change air filter.
30 min was annoying loving inaccessible oil filter not wanting to come off. gently caress modern compact engine design.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

MasonF posted:

Looks sad just sitting there waiting :(


I love the "Rally" vibe I'm getting from this. So drat cool.


Edit: "vibe", not "vide".

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Oct 13, 2018

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Replaced the turbo diverters solenoid/valve/membrane thing on my MiTo. Welcome back turbo, welcome back power. It's like having a whole different car. $100 part and 15 minutes. Gone from struggling to get up to 120km/h when passing while flooring it, to flying past people using 50% throttle.

(I'm making my 155hp small car sound like a Mustang, but hey, it makes a huge difference).

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Did a interior and exterior decon wash on my new car and protected it? Check. Looks nice.
Checked and confirmed that I have the proper head unit for aftermarket bluetooth steaming. Check.
Removed the horrible tint on the back passenger windows + rear windows? Check. Finally not like driving on a dark purple night. Top tip: Steam! No glue residue.
Failed hard at replacing the dogbone gearbox mount and now it clunks more? Check.............

Here's a bad rear picture of it (on winter rims) though:

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Oct 21, 2018

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I loathe doing anything for the first time on a new-to-me car because I can be almost certain that something will piss me off to no measure. Latest thing was wheel nuts that were torque to all loving hell and I had stand on the bar and jump. I weigh 90kg. Oh and the idiot who balanced the wheels didn't account for the front brakes when doing the rears, so I can't rotate the tires. They weren't marked neither, so probably put them on wrong side since I have vibrations. That is unless they got balanced improperly...

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

chrisgt posted:

Did they put stickon weights in the center of the rim so they hit the brake calipers?

Swapping a wheel from side to side shouldn't cause a vibration, wheels aren't balanced to the car so it shouldn't matter.
If they did a bad job a weight may have fallen off when you removed a wheel, shouldn't cost too much to have them all re-balanced.

Yeah rear ones have weights where they hit the front calipers. It's my first time using these wheels since buying the car as they are the "winter rims" with winter tires. Not new, but almost. I was thinking that the tires maybe had worn "asymmetrically", but then again the alignment is bang on (summers were like a dream at all speeds), so shouldn't really matter that much right? Just read somewhere that you shouldn't rotate from side to side. Didn't spot any obvious spots where weights could have come off, and it didn't happen when I put them on.

Getting the wheels aligned is probably going to set me back 70-90 dollars accoding to some places and I have to take the time to do it. Fun times.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

chrisgt posted:

It depends... If the tires are directional of course you don't want to swap them from side to side... I've read you don't want to swap studded tires side to side, even if they are non-directional. Once studs wear in going one direction they tend to come out if you change their direction (apparently). I've never tested it myself, but I can see validity to the argument.
If you have regular non-directional stud-less tires, however, go swap them side to side, doesn't hurt.
It is possible for tires to go out of balance as they wear, it's also possible they were never balanced correctly and the last owner just didn't care.

Just because your car is properly aligned and drives straight doesn't mean you don't need to rotate your tires. The tires on one end are inevitably going to wear more. If it's 2wd, the drive axle tires usually wear more, if it's awd the front tires usually wear more. Just the nature of the beast.

Not directional or studded. I think it's likely that they weren't balanced properly. I brought up the alignment just to further reinforce that it's the current tires and rims that are causing it. I was hoping to put the slightly more worn but not significantly so fronts on the back to even out the wear. After driving some on the tires I'm not that happy with them anyway (Falken), so will most likely change them before next winter anyway.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I have a secret love/fetish for the two Camry gens. around the new millennia. The older gen is cooler looking, but the new on is safer. As a proper European I've never driven a 6+ cylinder until recently - a Sonata V6 Automatic. I instantly got why Americans like their V6 autos. So smooth and comfortable.

So now I kinda a want a V6 auto pensioner-mobile.

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Dec 31, 2018

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

chrisgt posted:

I daily drive a V8... :911:


I'm starting to lose hope of ever owning a V8 car. The LS400 would be perfect as it gets decent mileage as well as being safe. Cheap to buy. Just missed out on one the other day, but I'm not going car shopping on the day before NYE.

The 4-cyls I own now are pretty nice sounding and characterful for being modern engines, but I'm getting real tired of 4-cyl cars, and time is kinda running out for bigger engines. Even a V6 Sonata got me excited for crying out loud...

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Decided to remove my engine mount that I suspect is bad. It looks fine but:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5WWUFhnHw4

This is with minimal effort...

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
So I finally got all the parts to change one of the three engine/gearbox mounts in my car. I posted a video in the stupid questions thread showing a mount that basically flopped around when being moved.
I went to one of thewell knowns specialist online stores and found that they didn't offer the same part that was on my car anymore and that (which I learned through emailing them) that Alfa had recently changed the part. Ok, I'm thinking great! I'm assured it'll fit and it's a part from a stronger engine, which in theory should mean better durability and performance. Well.... upon inspection I found that I need 130mm bolts instead of 65mm ones. Ok no problem. I order some bolts from loving France (because of course I get no reply when asking the same store that sold me the mount about getting the correct size bolts...) Ok. Ok. Still good.

........and the the mount didn't fit without fouling on the A/C line running behind it. I refused to fit the old one and spend time and money on returning the item, so I filed the fouling bit down until it fit. Fortunatly it was only bits that have minimal impact on the structural integrity of the mount. But it meant taking at least one more our of trial and error. Not to mention risking £80 by not being able to return the part.

Oh and I held up the engine with a jack from below before taking the old mount off. Maybe raised it 1cm max. I kept wondering why the new one was being so hard to fit on the engine. Turns out I had to raise the engine 5-8cm to get it to the correct (default) position. I guess the old mount was way more hosed than it appeared. Hopefully nothing has been damaged from all the time the engine and transmission has spent slanted.

At least now everything is fitted and all is well. Can't wait to test drive it tomorrow.

I also put on an original air fillter because I don't trust the PO and his lovely K&N filter. I opened the box up and wasn't at all surprised to see a ton of oil residue from him using way too much oil on the filter.

Good times!

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Why are the 6's different?

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I was dreading that happening when I removed the lovely tint when I bought my car. I decided to go the steam route and it worked very well.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Lol this is almost exactly like my motor mount episode where some people (not here) were very skeptical that mounts would need to be changed on a 2011. Another thing I've noticed since is that putting in a fresh strong mount (and like you elevating the engine back a few inches to the default position) seems to kill/make the the remaining old mounts show how worn they really are. Everything was nice for a few weeks, but now it feels like the gearbox side is clunking a bit and shifting gears is harder which I interpret as the gearbox mount being poo poo and misaligned the gearbox linkage. It's a bit harder to get to so it'll have to wait until the other car is legal to drive (only got summer tyres for it).

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

STR posted:

I've done all but 1 other mount already. And it didn't really do much for the clunking.

Then I looked at the sway bar. And the bushings. The sway bar is shifted way over, and it can be moved back and forth while attached to the end links. And there's marks on the passenger side lower control arm from the sway bar slamming into it. There's lips molded into the sway bar that look like they're designed to keep it from moving past the bushings - one lip is well into the bushing :flaccid:

I remember when I did the front struts, the sway bar just flopped down like it was on hinges once it was unbolted. Didn't realize it wasn't supposed to do that. :downs:

Even still, having an engine tilted and lower by a couple of inches can't be good for the mechanicals. Noises disappeared after I changed mine, which was a bit worrying at first.
Speaking of clunks and noises, I went around spraying all the bushings with PTFE and ziptied my handbrake cable sleeves to the hanger (were almost worn through from bouncing). Very big difference, which kinda surprised me.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I had to loving remove the front bumper and undo the headlights so I could move them to change bulbs as I can't fit my hand to swap them.
I hate new cars sometimes. It was a bitch to get the bumper back on as well.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Jesus Christ I hope I don't have to deal with handbrake cables like that...but then again I own a car that pretty much requires me to to take off the front bumper to change lights so.....
I'm ashamed to say, speaking of vibrations etc, that my winter tires are unbalanced and I've left it like that. I don't drive that much but it's right at the speed I usually drive outside of towns and it's annoying and probably not that good for the car, however, spending $120 balancing tires that I don't like stings too much. Only a week left of winter tire period anyway.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
How on earth .... :psyduck:

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Swapped in the last motor mount (gearbox side) and put in new OEM spark plugs. Good news is that the mount needed changing, and changing plugs takes 15min (I timed it lol). Bad news is that I still get stutter and shudders. They mainly come when letting off the gas or when at between 1.5-3k rpms. Getting a bit long in the tooth.
Gap after removing last bolt, supported by the jack at the same position it was before I started:


Edit:
Also clean the throttle body:


..and the old plugs. Can't say for sure, but perhaps less than a year old?

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Apr 7, 2019

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MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Feeling a bit dumb for not noticing that the brake fluid reservoir was way down on fluid. In retrospect shifting has been getting progressively harder like as if the clutch was sticking a bit. It kinda dawned on me when I was shifting during braking, and it was easier to shift into gear. Not that it's hard, but not as smooth as it was ~6 months ago. Topped it up and it got better. Still not as smooth as I remember it though. Maybe the brake fluid has gone bad. Going to replace it when it (hopefully) fit the Dodge Dart clutch delay valve delete. I loving hate delay valves. At least when they are implemented poorly.

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