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Shaocaholica posted:You can hate on me for not drilling my bumper but that thing is on there tight. I accidentally snagged my pants on one of the t-nuts before I attached the mount and it didn't even budge and thats just one out of four. I would think this method would work on other cars too given the right prep work and fitment. I'm not going to hate on you, but I'm confused as to why you would choose to do something like that. It's one thing to make it non-destructive, which it seems like double sided tape would be good for. But you did plenty of things that would require a re-spray to back out of. And at that point, what's the difference, other than not being as solid as if you bolted through the bumper?
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Jun 3, 2011 01:49
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mutt2jeff posted:I think he is confusing plastidip with spray paint. The plastidip just peels off with a pressure washer. Ding ding ding. I wasn't aware of that. Carry on.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:17
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VideoGameVet posted:I do recall in the 1970's my Dad running a bit of ATF in the oil of his cars immediately prior to an oil change. That I won't try. If you've been doing it since the thing was new there are no worries. If you start after a poor service history you run a very real risk of dislodging something larger than your oil passages can handle. It's no different than putting seafoam in there, honestly. I save the seafoam for induction cleaning. You can't do that with a cup of ATF or diesel.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:55
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VideoGameVet posted:Been running Mobil One in the Echo since 10,000 miles. Changes every 6000 miles. Oil doesn't get that dirty. So far, so good. Still manages to get 44mpg highway and it runs quiet. You should have no worries then. This is all about appropriate oil change intervals.
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Jun 8, 2011 23:17
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Mr.Peabody posted:Even the Army has given up on interval oil changes and uses lab tests to determine when to change the oil, and it saves tax payers tens of millions of dollars a year. * because they have enough vehicles to make having their own lab economical rather than sending samples out to a 3rd party like up slobs need to
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Jun 9, 2011 05:30
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some texas redneck posted:The Altima got a set of horns from a 1990 Cadillac Deville THAT'S what I was talking about.
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Jun 14, 2011 21:59
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Still need to make some proper brackets, but it's better than the pathetic "meepCOUGHWHEEZEcoughmeeeeeeep" ... thing.. that it had.
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heat posted:Isn't replacing something like that with some random poo poo from the hardware store a really bad idea? In general, yes. But likely the worst thing that will happen is a flat (from the brake caliper grinding through your rim as it pivots when you're braking) if one of those falls out or breaks. I wish I didn't know that.
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Jul 8, 2011 23:23
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Paul Boz_ posted:Uh no. Most hardware stores stock automotive grade hardware. It is definitely not a good idea to grab stuff from the general hardware section though! Did you LOOK at the picture? The key word here is "random", as opposed to finding appropriately sized grade 8 bolts and nuts.
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Jul 9, 2011 00:40
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trouser chili posted:If they break free of the bolts the inside edge of the wheel will keep them from ripping off completely. Been there. They sort of act like half disc-brake, half drum, using the outside edge of the caliper as the shoes and the inside edge of the wheel as the drum. I don't recommend it. If the opposite bolt falls out or breaks, it uses the inside of your rim. It doesn't go well with aluminum wheels. Just trust me on that one.
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Jul 12, 2011 15:57
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CornHolio posted:replaced my 12V outlet fuse after a PENNY somehow fell into my outlet and literally fused itself in there, causing much sparkage. Still don't know how it happened, now I have a cool charred and deformed penny. "It was a million to one shot, Doc. Million to one."
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Jul 14, 2011 14:34
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Holdbrooks posted:whats up grenade shifter buddy! For the love of god, what do they put in Alabama water that would make you put a shifter extension on like you're some 1970's porn-star-mustachioed big rig driver?
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Jul 17, 2011 23:16
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Rhyno posted:Have you somehow missed his entire thread? I absolutely did and am fixing my glaring omission right now. Holyshit. Edit: How in the hell did I miss this? Holdbrooks is officially insane, and my favorite AI poster. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Jul 18, 2011 |
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Jul 17, 2011 23:38
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Eat Fresh posted:Flogged it around the local track with an instructor for a couple hours. That's lots of fun. Small critique: don't lets those RPMs fall so much on your upshifts, and learn to "blip" the throttle. It will keep your back end from getting squirreley if you're downshifting in a turn, as well as save wear on your clutch and syncros. It's the same concept as heel-toeing minus the braking.
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Jul 20, 2011 01:48
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Eat Fresh posted:I'll try that next time. I can heel/toe but not very well and the instructor told me not to bother and to just focus on the track this time. I'll be going again asap so I'll have time to practice! Awesome. You can practice all of that on the street. Your instructor was correct: focus on the track while you're at the track at first. But if you drive around practicing your throttle blipping and heel-toe on the street, you'll make it second nature and you won't need to think about it on the track.
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Jul 20, 2011 17:39
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MadMax posted:-new headlight bulbs This is the shallow end. MadMax posted:-replaced timing, serpentine and v-belts and timing belt tensioner Hell yes. Good on you. That's the deep end. (the timing belt) As far as your brake bleed, make sure you completely fluch out the old fluid (from each wheel). If it hasn't been done (ever/in a while) it will make all the difference in the world and prevent you from replacing parts unnecessarily.
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Aug 10, 2011 19:35
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MadMax posted:Also, is there a general consensus on whether it is worth going to a rear disc conversion from the existing drums? My instinct is maybe if I get into autocross but for now with this as my DD the money can be spent better elsewhere. I don't find braking to be a huge thing in autocross (certainly not of the importance as in racing). Sure, you need good brakes, but spending that money on good tires will be more effective than a disk conversion in the back. Most of your stopping power comes from the front anyway, so just make sure you have those well sorted. Actually, spending the money on more seat time would probably be the best car mod to get faster. MadMax posted:Awesome, thanks for the pointer. Any particular parts I should replace as a matter of course or specific wear indications to check for? I have been reading as much as I can (mostly on VWVortex and whatever Google brings up) but I tend to trust AI much more than any other source. Do you mean as far as brakes? Just make sure that the existing pads have worn evenly. If not, you may be looking at caliper slider pins (they need to be greased. If they are not they can bind up and get gouged) or calipers themselves. Chances are high if you have even pad wear on the inside and outside pads, and both the left and right pad sets are about the same thickness that you are OK. If there is a big difference between them, it's time to look for the cause. Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Aug 12, 2011 |
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Aug 12, 2011 15:23
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Mar 25, 2012 18:28
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Sponge! posted:Got the dreaded call... ......and this is in regards to? The next step is a leak down test to determine where the problem is. If it's top end and the rest appears to be in good shape, I really don't see how "junk yard motor" is the next logical step.
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Apr 5, 2012 17:30
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This. It could just be a hosed valve or something. That definitely depends on what its in, which is why I was asking (i.e. thinks like S10s where you can drop the pan without pulling the motor - brilliant design). But top end/hosed up valve? No way I'm swapping a motor over that. And remember, I'm the kind of idiot who owns vehicles where entire motors are basically consumable items, so it's not like I think swapping a motor is some grand project.
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Apr 5, 2012 21:13
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lathode posted:the outer 1/3 or so of the rotors were warped? wavy? I don't know the correct term. They had ridges in them? That's not warped, that just normal wear that needs to be machined flat or you just replace them. "Rotor warping" is something different and very uncommon. lathode posted:After looking at how to do the rear drums I decided to take it to a shop, good thing too since the wheel cylinders were leaking and the parking brake cable spring thing was frayed. $75 for labor well worth it. Not a bad price, but if you you were able to do the fronts you can absolutely pull of that repair in the back. Next time. It's not hard....the only big difference is bleeding the brakes when you're done (if you're changing cylinders).
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Apr 6, 2012 02:13
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PainterofCrap posted:Saved my bumper I hate this "design feature" most about my engine lift. I mean, what the hell? Not only does it dig into the bumper but it makes operating the pump a huge pain in the rear end.
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Apr 16, 2012 19:34
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DeesGrandpa posted:I did this Wrong thread.
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Apr 22, 2012 01:09
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OneTruePecos posted:Bled and flushed the brakes on the car (86 Porsche 944 Turbo) and the truck (98 Nissan Frontier). Pedal is much better in both now. Doing this using a pressure bleeder was a revelation, NOTHING gives you the pedal feel of a pressure bleeder. I hope you bled your clutch slave too. If not, do it. Also, I'm on a blue year too for my 944. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. OneTruePecos posted:Then, because the 27 year old car is a 27 year old car, the glass flew off one of the side mirrors as I was giving it a test drive with the new fluid. Mine did that last summer when a passenger closed the door in a parking lot. Dammit. I picked the other one off and reglued it before it decided to let go on its own. It didn't take much to get it off, so I assume it was ready to do the same.
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Apr 25, 2012 02:46
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JackRabbitStorm posted:This is more so of "What did your car do to you yesterday". Not know what "my make/model" is since you didn't mention it, I'll go with the most common reason: a filthy throttle body.
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May 10, 2012 18:45
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ExecuDork posted:Roof racks are unnecessary if you can find pool noodles, especially the jumbo variety. Do you get that roof racks aren't primarily there to give you something to strap to and keep your paint nice? They are there to place the load on a stronger (read: not basically unsupported sheet metal) section of your car, i.e the gutters.
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May 25, 2012 14:45
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ExecuDork posted:I assume had the roof deformed, the sunroof tracks would have also been bent or otherwise changed and the weak motor driving the sunroof would not have been able to move it. You assume incorrectly. The sunroof frame it it's own assembly. If it bends you've already REALLY bent the roof sheet metal. You would have to somehow pull the aperture for the sunroof far enough out of shape to bend the sunroof frame, which would be quite obvious and permanent. I'm not saying don't do it. By all means, it's your car, and by the pics it appears that the load points of the canoe are at least somewhere close to the edges where it's stronger. But don't be surprised if it goes wrong, and don't think you somehow figured out that roof racks are a big scam.
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May 26, 2012 01:47
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Sockington posted:I thought roof racks were just for the lowered dubber crew. Something like that with exceptions. 
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May 26, 2012 02:09
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PBCrunch posted:If it is anything like the manual transmissions they used in Maximas, the problem is the diff carrier bearing. It is bad and it allows the axle to move in a eccentric way that eggs out the axle seal. This too, but don't overlook a clogged breather first. I had a friend replace rear axle seals on a pickup about 3 times before I found his breather bent over and clogged.
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May 28, 2012 02:14
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I think I've put all the patches on this one that it can take. I know this isn't more than 6 or 7 Sockingtons of rust, but I'm not good enough to weld to rust. The exhaust has just kinda been wafting out of the wheel well. I put my passenger's side window down a couple of days ago and it stopped moving entirely at about 3/4 of the way up so I'm also re-flowing the solder on some Lucas poo poo (window lift ECU). 
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Apr 7, 2013 20:03
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General_Failure posted:Dun dun DUN! Holy poo poo, congratulations. I pretty much figured something lovely was going to happen and you wouldn't get this one/make it home. I expect to see englishrussia-wtf-level photos on a regular basis now as you work on this thing.
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Apr 13, 2013 14:38
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N is for Nipples posted:Today I removed the front air dam on my truck. I understand its purpose and I do expect to see a slight drop in fuel mileage, but it decreased my effective ground clearance to a level I deemed unacceptable. I don't know how bad the fuel economy was on whatever this is to begin with, but I seriously can't tell the difference on my Rover. It still gets 14 before and after. Something that's not shaped like a loaf of bread might produce more noticeable results but you're right: if you use it off road the clearance is worth it. The way I see it I could take it off under controlled circumstances in my shop or I could wait for it to jettison on it's own out on a trail somewhere.
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Apr 26, 2013 14:50
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ExecuDork posted:
Holy crap what did you put that on there with? An edging shovel? That's gonna be miserable to sand and looks like you're going to have a ton of low spots. You will need a long board sander to unfuck that. Don't even try with anything else.
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May 13, 2013 16:01
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ExecuDork posted:I have no experience and no skill at this kind of thing. I'm learning at a ferocious rate! OK....sand it out. With a long board sander. Use some paint dusted on the work, and then sand. You'll see the low spots. Get all the high spots knocked off. Then go buy a proper set of scrapers so you can fill in the low spots without making a mess of it again. You still have a chance at pulling this off reasonably. But you really should have found a junk panel to practice on first.
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May 13, 2013 20:41
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Tusen Takk posted:Okay so everything went great with the axles~ You don't have any shoes on but are wearing knee pads. You are just confirming your complete retardation. I'm sorry IOC, do what you must here.
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May 17, 2013 03:44
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Tusen Takk posted:I have bad knees and couldn't find the boogie board that I usually use. Stop assuming the worst about everything What the hell does that have to do about not wearing shoes while your feet are under a car that has been lifted improperly as you work on it?
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May 17, 2013 04:08
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Your valve guide seals are also bad and have been so for quite some time (specifically on the exhaust side). That was probably the bulk of your oil consumption before the head gasket issue. Whenever you see that kind of buildup under the valve cover you can be pretty sure there's some blow-by exhaust baking it on.
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Jun 4, 2013 14:58
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Ozmiander posted:...either china is invading my town, or the Chinese restaurant is using CBs to communicate with their drivers, since CH9 is full of Chinese speech and addresses. Yeah, why buy MURS radios so you can be (license free) in compliance with the FCC when you can just use a CB instead?
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Jun 18, 2013 00:34
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kastein posted:You should have seen the number of people who nearly got whiplash double-taking as I passed them on the highway on the way to my job interview last Friday. Shoulda drove the 5 ton for maximum effect. Yeah, yeah...registration and all of that. I know. But still.....
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Jun 29, 2013 16:20
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Why did this make me smile? I didn't even see it was you posting at first. I'm so screwed. (enjoy your Indian Head/Anaerobic Permatex on the way back together!....and tell me more about those injectors and why I want them on the '98) Motronic fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 05:48
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StormDrain posted:they're a lovely bleeder with a loose fit (air leaks past the threads when I tried to vacuum bleed them) Take them out, apply a small but covering amount of never seize. This takes care of two problem at once.
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Jul 7, 2013 23:21
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