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Before:.JPG) Click here for the full 1028x768 image. After: .JPG) Click here for the full 1028x768 image. No, these are not the same fender. I forgot to take a picture before I started grinding and welding, but the damage was very similar. 240SX's have a lower fender brace. Well, all of them but this one. This is the result. Now it's time for bondo, high-build, and tons of sanding. First I probably need to find out if the fender is warped after I cut and rewelded the internal brace to fix some fairly severe dents in the very front of the fender. I also went ahead and rolled the fender while I had the hammer and dolly out. Wish they had this one in the junkyard, but every 240 in there is hit on the right front fender. Oh well, I wanted to learn how to do body work anyway. And there's no way I could screw it up worse than it already is.
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Oct 6, 2010 01:10
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 16:03 |
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What's this? Everything needed to put air conditioning in a 1993 240SX, you say? Why, you are quite astute, sir. Junkyard parts...I let about $200 worth of R12 into the wild blue when I cracked the system open, this could mean that the compressor will actually work! It scared the poo poo out of me, it's pretty rare for a car in the JY to actually maintain a seal. The car looked like it had been driven in, though, no real damage to the body of the car. This is cleaned up, there was a power steering leak for the last 20,000 miles by the way it looked and everything on the left side of the engine was covered in a quarter-inch of sludge. Next up, seeing how lazy the PO of my car actually was...did he remove the wiring too? I'm guessing no. 
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Oct 16, 2010 00:38
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Changed oil and the VANOS filter in the M3. That little filter gunks up and is the cause of most VANOS failures. $15 insurance for a $2000+ repair. How much Castrol TWS-Motorsport 10W-60 oil can you buy with $90? .jpg) Click here for the full 948x1080 image. Vanos filter, before and after  Click here for the full 1936x1380 image.  Click here for the full 1811x1232 image.
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Nov 18, 2010 01:08
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Got some of those newfangled ricer lightbulbs. Halogens, I think they call them. Say what you will about sealed beams, when there are four highs, you get a lot of light output. The lights I took out still had FoMoCo emblems in the glass, but I can't possibly think that they were original. wallaka fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jan 20, 2011 |
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Jan 20, 2011 00:53
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DJ Commie posted:Ahh, back before they figured out that keeping both on was a bad idea as it ruines distance perception with so much near-field brilliance. The low beam bulbs' second filament is identical to the outboard high beam single filament, though. It doesn't keep the low-beam filament on, so I don't think it would really have that problem.
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Jan 22, 2011 20:54
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Put the new sunroof seal on the 240SX, then pulled it out and parked the Monterey in the garage next to the Comet. I wasn't sure that it would fit, but I got just enough room to open the tool chest that is located in front of the car.
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Jan 27, 2011 23:05
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Put the stock exhaust and wheels back on the M3 in preparation for a sale... 
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Feb 3, 2011 00:35
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Ran new ignition switch and horn wires in the '68 Mercury where the horn buss bar somehow shorted out and burned the insulation off the ignition switch wire somewhere via the stupid accessory line that comes from the headlight switch--that is apparently unfused and doesn't run through the headlight switch circuit breaker (though it WILL overheat the damned thing and make it so you have no lights in the dark). Had the dash off for like two weeks before I got calm enough to trace the short down, but it's all back together now. Also figured out that the grinding sound was the RF wheel scraping on the control arm. Apparently an 8" wide 18" front wheel is too much with a ET 20 offset, I need a lower offset (AKA spacer) to clear. It's fine when the wheel is testfitted with the car in the air, but not when on the ground. Luckily, I can fit whatever the hell I want on the rear. Fuckin' Ford, now I see why nobody ran wide front tires in the 60's, you can't fit them under the car worth a crap if you have a smaller wheel.
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Jun 1, 2011 00:10
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Replaced the RTABs in my 2004 M3. Pretty easy job, just used a ball-joint tool instead of the couple hundred dollar BMW tool. The new bushings are an updated design, supposed to last longer. We'll see. Installed Vorschlag limiters while I was at it.  Guess all the talk about BMW jacking points failing is true!  Luckily no real damage, just a barely-there crease in the rocker panel. Luckily I was nowhere near under the car--still scared the poo poo out of me.
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Aug 23, 2011 03:39
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Washed my doriftu machine.
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Aug 27, 2011 22:36
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Took a better picture, then did the "washer trick" and lowered the car by .75" or so by shimming the ride height sensors down. Hard to tell, but it's lower. 
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Nov 1, 2011 19:38
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Replaced the stupid Mercedes upright springer hood ornament on the 55 with something more to my taste and less old-man-ish. 
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Nov 10, 2011 23:05
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:No it's no signal then WHAM! FULL PRESSURE! then dead again. does this a number of times, usually when I hit the gas. What kind of truck is it?
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Nov 11, 2011 00:27
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Just checked the EVTM; it looks like it's a single wire that runs from instrument cluster to the pressure switch. YAY! Hmm. Fords used to be bad about the instrument cluster voltage regulator going bad, but I think this is too new of a vintage for that. Dang.
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Nov 11, 2011 16:03
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:I'd been wondering where that smilie went. Besides, wouldn't it be :kraut: for German cars? Maybe  ?
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Nov 11, 2011 16:06
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More  What do you need a a cheater bar for?  For a crank pulley bolt that's torqued to 150 ft/lbs plus 90 degrees. Note the size of the bolt next to the socket. This should wake it up a bit. 180mm crank pulley. It's good for another few pounds of boost. Uprated intercooler pumps come next.  Pretty easy install, took me about 3 hours. Had to pull the belly pans in order to lock the flywheel, but they were surprisingly easy after dealing with the M3's crap. There were only 8 bolts, all exposed and easily found. The fan comes out through the top after the core support is pulled-another 8 bolts, again easy. Unsnap the coolant hoses from the shroud and it pulls right up. The pulley was on there pretty damned tight, but it eventually came loose and out. The hardest part was putting the inner serpentine belt back on; the crank pulley is in front of the tensioner now. I finally found a way with the prybar and the rest was a snap. Eurocharged is putting a tune on it in a couple of hours and it's done.
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Nov 14, 2011 21:37
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Das Volk posted:Haha that's a familiar looking USB cable you got there Yeah I have another one that looks just like it for my motorcycle. I imagine they're all the same--USB-serial converter with the OBD connector.
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Nov 15, 2011 04:48
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New supercharger heat exchanger and I/C pump for the E55. A bit of difference.  
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Jan 21, 2012 21:05
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Chinatown posted:Blacked out my chrome grill and badges on my '05 330ci today using Plasti-Dip. Its pretty amazing stuff, 100% idiot proof, totally removable, and looks really good. I was wary about using some 'cheap' spray on stuff on my car but I really can't argue with the results. Did this a few months ago on my E55, still looks great.
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Feb 10, 2012 23:37
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Splizwarf posted:
It didn't, and we don't.
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Feb 13, 2012 20:19
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Started it for the first time in 3 years: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkfrx5yaqaA It's my granddad's old truck. My grandmother gave it to me, I'm going to try to pull a much less ambitious Mooecow. It's a 1967 Ford F100, 240 inline six, 3-speed column shift. Me and Dad really didn't have to do much to get it started, just charge the battery, splash some fresh gas in the tank, change the points out (conveniently there were new ones in the glove box), and there she goes. I wasn't expecting it to crank or I would have caught the whole thing. Still need to unstick the clutch and check all the brakes and brake hoses, and get some new tires on it before I'll move it. The tires hold air but look terribly bad. Oh, and replace that carb with another Holley 1100 I have sitting around. It's pouring gas from what looks like the throttle shaft seal area--maybe the float is just stuck. Wouldn't be surprising, but it doesn't flood.
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Oct 29, 2012 21:34
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some texas redneck posted:It would be leaking from the vent, not the shaft seal, if it was sticking. And it would also flood. I'd imagine maybe the top gasket is screwed then, but there's so much grime it's impossible to tell. I'm just going to take my other carb up there with a new gasket and put it on, then rebuild the old one.
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Nov 1, 2012 03:24
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Got a part in the mail:
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Nov 9, 2012 01:38
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Rhyno posted:God drat it. Bet you won't.
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Dec 18, 2012 08:07
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Rhyno posted:I'm so annoyed! This happened once before years ago but in that case my neighbor stole the plate off my car. That's pretty hosed up, the only reason I'm ok with living where I do is no HOA.
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Dec 18, 2012 08:34
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Viggen posted:My HoA essentially disbanded about the time I bought my place. It was then sourced out to a known piss-poor management company. I just got an invoice for ~$400 for the next year. Hindsight is a bitch, wow. Umm...my neighborhood was built in the 70's, no streetlights, I have a 1 acre lot and cut my own grass. I'm also in a suburb of Montgomery, AL, so there's a 99% chance you still have me beat.
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Dec 18, 2012 08:44
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Viggen posted:Well, yes, and no. NoCal/NV probably isn't that far off. With the lack of jobs (and dropping property values), it's just going further downhill. It's sill a fairly nice place to be, and MUCH better than my last rental, but.. well, the world is changing without us, it seems. Oh yeah. No CARB here but man it's full up with rednecks. ... What did I do to my ride? I bought a 1979 big intake/big valve, pocket ported and .010 skimmed head for my 1965 Mercury Comet with the 200 inline 6. Now I need a 1.75" bore 1V carb, maybe a Carter YF. Maybe a mild cam too, already got 6-2 headers.
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Dec 18, 2012 09:18
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Viggen posted:I still kick myself for missing out on classic MOPAR. I still want one. A very specific one. Depends on if you've eaten any of their food.
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Dec 18, 2012 09:23
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11BulletCatcher posted:
Dangol eye-talian tuneup, man. Works every time.
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Jan 24, 2013 08:01
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That shouldn't happen.
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Jan 28, 2013 17:41
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Put a new alternator on the E55. Thanking all the gods that I had the foresight to buy an Optima battery or I wouldn't have made it to work or back. It's probably been out for 3 days at least, but it sat right at 11.5-11.7V for 3 hours of run time. Went ahead and replaced the serpentine belt while I was in there, and since the coolant was drained, I flushed and filled with MB-recommended fluid. Luckily I had my buddy helping me, getting that inside belt on is a pure bitch by yourself--the hex on the tensioner that you're supposed to turn with a socket is completely covered by the 180mm blower pulley. There was obvious burning on the back of the alternator where the windings exit the case but the regulator was fine. It smelled like burnt hair. I had to get a reman alternator--a new one was $1100 at the dealership and $800 or so online. Got a Bosch-branded rebuilt for $185 with an employee discount from a friend at Carquest. While we were at it, we replaced the thermostat on my buddy's 2003 Audi A4. Wow, gently caress that right in the rear end. Throttle body, alternator, bracing, all that has to come out for a friggin' computer controlled thermostat that regularly breaks. The Mercedes was a joy to work on compared to this; plenty of room and straightforward removal procedure. All that and a central jacking point.
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Feb 17, 2013 07:37
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DoLittle posted:words Goddamn. 
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Apr 5, 2013 09:20
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Finally found some reasonably-priced wheels for the E55. They're replicas, but for $120 I'm not complaining. The front tires are even at about half tread. 19x8.5 ET35, 19x9.5, but they're both ET 35. I think I'm going to need some 5mm spacers to clear the brakes. Gonna refinish them gold or bronze, I think. Haven't decided. 
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Apr 19, 2013 03:18
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XCPuff posted:drat, that's a good price. What is the bolt pattern for these? They're 5x112. Of course they gotta be different than everybody else.
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Apr 20, 2013 21:02
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Learned how to use a Hunter Auto 34 machine. Holy poo poo, this is the best machine for tire mounting. These wheels have an abnormally small drop center but this handled it like butter. Once I figured it out, anyway. The guys at the shop hadn't been trained very well, apparently--they weren't confident and tore the bead a bit on the first rear tire. Not sure if they were happy about an IT guy coming in and showing them how to use it. Luckily it was where I'd worked years ago and I knew the guys, and my best friend is a service writer there. These are 275/30 R19, 245/35 R19 Hankook Ventus V12, 2006 Mercedes-Benz S65 wheels sprayed in bronze. Not sure about the color, it has a ton of flake in it when the sun hits but is a bit dull in the shade. Guess I need to get the centercaps on there too.  The old tires were worn a bit--  
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May 14, 2013 08:15
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Replaced the crankshaft angle sensor on my Mercedes E55 in the parking lot of a liquor store in rural Alabama. I only dropped the damned thing into the undertray twice and the bolt once. Luckily I had the foresight to bring a magnet and a metal coat hanger so I got all that cleared out.
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Jul 20, 2013 03:31
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 Replaced both wheel cylinders and shoes. There was so much poo poo in there that I thought the axle seals were leaking, but they seem to be ok. I'll check later this week to be sure. At least it's a 9" so they're easy to change.
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Aug 6, 2013 03:39
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 Not mine, but helped a buddy do an emergency u-jointectomy on his 1985 Corvette. He bought the thing 6 months ago with 70,000 miles or so and something has been going wrong every 3 weeks or so. Pretty normal for a car that sat for 5 years and is all of a sudden a DD. There was about a half inch of play in the right rear axle, I guess the grease dried up in like 2002. Used the THOR method with the u-joints, it was the easiest part of the whole thing. Wrench sizes needed: 9/16", 15mm, 13/16", 18mm, 1/2", 8mm, and so on. It was fairly frustrating at times. gently caress 1980s GM. It took us about 4 and a half hours but really it should've been 3.
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Aug 13, 2013 07:02
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 Made a kickdown linkage extender for my 68 Mercury. The stock kickdown worked when I had the 1" spacer under the carb, but I couldn't fit an air cleaner with the spacer and still close the hood all the way. The Performer RPM intake is too tall. This works well enough.
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Aug 14, 2013 03:51
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 16:03 |
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GM products, both cars and trucks, have had that intermediate shaft clunk for 15 ears now without a fix besides "replace the shaft" repeated over and over.
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Aug 21, 2013 21:43
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