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the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

evilnissan posted:

RX8 update.

So it apears that the car had something tapping into the harness at the engine PCM... Which was removed at somepoint and had gobs of black tape holding it together...

So I had to order a new harness for the motor, $390.00 that I really didnt want to spend.

Good news is the new engine is at the shop and the old one should be out sometime today and can inspect the clutch.. It's got 87K miles on it but my wallet still hopes it has plenty of life left in it. $600+ for clutch disk and pressure plate from Mazda.

1) Any half decent shop should have been able to easily repair any harness damage.
2) 87k? Be ready to replace the clutch. I will look up my wholesale cost for one after lunch.

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the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

evilnissan posted:

RX8 update.

The old motor is out, 3 out of 4 oil injectors are bad and wont hold vacuum, the ssv valve was stuck shut in carbon along with a few other odds and ends including the whole wiring harness bullshit.

I really wish I could pull the old engine apart, the number 2 rotor failed in such a way it pumped a bunch of oil up through the intake all the way to the filter and poo poo even more out the exhaust.

They had issue ordering the parts last week, their parts guy ordered the wrong harness and pretty much hosed a bunch of other work orders up to the point they fired him. The harness I need must be made of gold because I shat a brick when they quoted me $1100.00 for it.. But now due to all the hassle they are charging me cost only so $600 for magic wires still blows my mind.

Clutch is good shape, turns out it was done less than 30,000 miles ago with no heat marks on the pressure plate or the old flywheel.


Truck update.

Goddamn brake line blew out again going down the hill I live on. Pucker factor 10 when it went but the parking brake got me stopped just in time or I would have t-boned a loving school bus.

You need to start using Ray Crowe of Malloy Mazda. Not only is he the parts manager, but an avid rotary enthusiast. He gives great deals and his prices include shipping.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I went to the beach! It's the closest house that does not have hard water... Since it finally started to rain, I neglected washing/waxing my pour car. Fixed that yesterday.

dirty girl



washed


claybar'd


helper


much better


quick walk on the beach before it started to get too dark


coat of wax +rain-x




Our neighbor stopped by twice asking if I was prepping for a car show/contours. Apparently I do a better job then the detail shop he paid last time. Nice fellow, shows a Morgan and a 56 T-bird. His son races a 325 w/ a M3 motor.


Edit*

the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Nov 11, 2012

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I installed a new stereo and speakers. It has been two years since it has had one and I am finally re-registering the car to break in the new engine. Sadly i discovered a random fuel leak and need to pull the upper... Maybe Monday.



the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Bought some RPF1's locally for the track.



Cut and buffed this poor car. It went from pink to red after some 3M Extra Cut III and Foam pad polish :).

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Replaced the EGR sensor on the F150, EGR code is gone and it can finally pass emissions.
Replaced the throttlebody/ACV on the Miata, P0421 is still there. Ugg.
Fixed door cups in a 93 Touring RX7
Fixed steering wheel angle/mounted a wideband in a 94 PEP RX7.
Helped a friend get his 93 Touring RX7 started after 6 months of sitting.
Cleaned up some 99-spec turbos forsale.

Overall a productive Sunday.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Curb'd the poo poo out of my 135i's front passenger wheel. Older fellow in a Mercedes 380sl decides he wants to turn into my lane, in the corner, as I am trying to dodge one of Portland's great pot holes. $200 later from Wheel KraftNW and it will be fixed, but I just can't seem to win. Last week I had to replace all 4 tires thanks to camber wear and a split sidewall.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
It got a car cover. I found a importer willing to import anything I send them a OEM part number for. So far it's worked on hatch struts, brake caliper brackets, and this car cover.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

MrOnBicycle posted:

Be very careful putting it on / removing it. Car covers are car scratch heaven.

I have three shades of white on different ends of the car, so I'm not too worried. It's better then the grinding dust/sawdust that it gets covered in sitting in the shop. Downside to not having a separate area to park. Up until this fall it was sitting outside. I really need to start on the covered parking area behind the shop.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
My new turbo got here Friday.

I've made a terrible awesome mistake.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I'll post a update later in my thread. It's a S472SXE, which is between the EFR9180 and S480/488. It has the best compressor map I've seen for this application and would easily make 900HP on a 13B-REW.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I'm expecting the rotor (or pieces) to come out with the apex seals with a turbo this large.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Those are definitely shared with my 97 F150. They were ~$20 each on Amazon to replace too.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

I'd probably just use a puller.

Anywho, I guess I don't have to...


Welp there go my hopes of an easy fix on the tractor.
That key is perfectly in place. I tried to start it after loving with the throttle linkages and poo poo and it runs exactly the same.
It sounds like it's misfiring at full to half throttle. If I drop the throttle all the way down the engine recovers and runs much more smoothly but still doesn't sound quite right. Also it runs way faster than it should at low throttle.

Have not had a chance to read all the posts- but does this engine have a decompression valve? Check out mustie1 on youtube.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

kastein posted:

This is why I bought a 300 dollar mounting machine and a 250 dollar balancing machine. The only time I see the inside of a tire shop is bringing my old rubber to be recycled now.

It's hard work on my ancient mounting machine but a little elbow grease should fix that up and even if not, I could use the exercise and I know no one is loving it up but me.

I'm 100% regretting not buying the newer Hunter mounting/balancer from my neighbors shop when it closed. Even @ $1,800 for the pair it was still worth it. I've easily spent double that much on M+B so far.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I put new* wheels on it.




Factory BBS 17x8 and 17x8.5 wrapped in RE71r's. Known in the Rx-7 world as Spirit-R wheels from one of the 1,500 produced. Repainted in a dark hyper-black. Really like how it changed the look of the car, despite having similar wheels before. Next up is installing the factory carbon-kevlar Recaro seats.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Bought it. Wife's new DD. '19 CX-3 Touring.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Echotic posted:

This. Friends of mine has a new 3 hatch and a CX-3 as company cars. The 3 was definitely roomier inside.

AWD

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Took the day off and built a new motor for my FD.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Today I bought a turbo and I can't stop smiling.




the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Picked up one of my stalled projects today. 9 months at the machinist... Worth it.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Darchangel posted:

Pretty!

I put a modern head unit in my Scooby:


Alpine mechless, BT, CarPlay, camera inputs, etc. Very nice. One feature I like that's unique to it (for now) is that you can two-finger swipe up and down for volume, or side to side for track/station skip.

Link? I really like how shallow it is in your other photos.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I made some great progress on a bunch of small projects today.
1997 F150 - Got stuck in 4WD High, could not get it out no matter what. Ended up pulling the actuator on the transfer case and using some YouTube videos to figure out the 4WD vacuum solenoid was still engaged. Pulled the battery and it cleared the memory (I'm guessing in the GEM). The odd thing was moving the switch did nothing. Hope the GEM/switch aren't cooked. But after 365k, what do you do. Also replaced the column shifter which has been long broken and replaced the turnsignal/wiper switch. We've had a long standing problem with the wipers/lights cutting out depending on the column position. Turns out it was a broken tab holding in a pin. Zip tie fixed it, probably for the rest of this trucks life. I've got new brakes/master cylinder/steering stuff for the next time I have free time.

2001 BMW E46 wagon - replaced the broken radiator level sensor I fried when the tank cracked. Still going strong at 265k. Leaks... a lot of oil still. Someday I'll do the FMS.

1987 Motorhome - We've been helping a family during this awesome situation we're all in and the mom was given this R30 Suburban based motorhome. Big old 454. Was gone through 6 years ago with new tires/brakes/suspension. Ordered plugs, wires, fuel filter, and pump. Has 50k on it, but I swear the plugs and wires were last done in 1988. One was burnt clean off at the boot. It's running 10x better now and we can now help them figure out their next steps.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Most sketch shops I've seen just take some quality 3m silicone and lay a nice dab inside above the pinhole. Same stuff most 3 piece wheel companies glue their barrels together with.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Spent $1200 on Rock Auto to fix all my hoopties.

$100 Mazdaspeed Miata - Coils, plugs, wires, filters, belts, gaskets
$50 Forester - Gas cap (evap code) and trans/air/fuel filters
$350 Wrangler - Oil filter/cooling housing, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, filters
$700 F150 - Coil packs, plugs, plug repair threadsert tool+loctite, steering arms/joints (complete overhaul), evap can sensor, fuel filter, trans filter

I'm not excited about the ~20 hours of work ahead of me.
And now that I've wrote this I forgot about ordering a Master/booster for the F150. Shoot. Goodbye money.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Replaced our CX-3, BMW 325xi, and now the Subaru Forester.
Many thanks to the Goon who was selling it. It will be a great commuter for us.



the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Yerok posted:

Got the new 7.3 super duty shitbox to run today. Guess I was right on about the IPR being stuck open. Replaced it and got pressure out of the HPOP, replaced the batteries/starter, and it actually fired up.

Turbo impeller was full of acorn chunks and the waste gate is stuck wide open (maybe more acorns).

4R100 is empty and it sorta looks like it was leaking out of the solenoid pack connector but it's hard to tell exactly what has atf on it because everything is covered in black oil maybe from someone trying to diagnose the HPOP before me or maybe the turbo pedestal is pissing oil everywhere, who knows.

Hopefully I can throw some supertech in it and at least be able to move it under its own power out of the middle of the driveway instead of dragging it everywhere with my other shitbox 7.3

2WD or 4WD? I've got a spare 4r100 from the roll over I bought the motor/trans from for my shitbox 7.3

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Tried to start my 7.3 today and it hydro locked. I’m also missing coolant. Let’s play a game. gently caress.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Powershift posted:

My money's on injector cups.

My 7.3 is shamefully still running on the same coolant it came with <checks watch> 8 years ago? oh dear.

It's unbelievable how much abuse and neglect that truck has put up with. but it needs new batteries right now and i'm teetering on just pulling the drivetrain and scrapping it.

That was my first thought. My Buddy has the tool and I considered doing it while the engine was out. Now I’m really regretting not just spending the $300.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Parts arrived to fix the above mentioned hydrolock on my 7.3l.
$220 and I've got new International Cups, OE o-ring kits, and 4oz of Loctite 620. Just waiting for my friend to stop by with his puller/installer kit. And for a nice day. Winter is not the time to be fixing this, but I'll survive.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Yerok posted:

7.3 clutch master, slave, pedal, clutch switch mounted. Transmission cooler lines blown out, cut, reflared for ZF6. Driveshafts on. Clutch feels good & disengages correctly. Impeller & turbine outlet swapped out.

Dealer ordered me the wrong HPOP reservoir lower gasket and I forgot to check the box before I left but at least I knew it was wrong when I saw it and didn't crack the timing cover and end up setting it all on fire.

No dealer wanted to flash my PCM, local shop said they could but "there might be complications" so gently caress that I'll just get a hydra.

Waiting for correct HPOP gasket, compressor housing o-ring, gotta do the stupid loving dipstick flange and then I guess I should probably try to fix the exhaust it came with so at least it has a downpipe on it when I start it up to verify it all works.

I guess I just did a ZF6 conversion outside during the winter.

Any Black Friday deals on the Hydra? I might just have to order one.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Rock Auto specifies belts for most cars as with AC and Without AC. I’d start there.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

the spyder posted:

Parts arrived to fix the above mentioned hydrolock on my 7.3l.
$220 and I've got new International Cups, OE o-ring kits, and 4oz of Loctite 620. Just waiting for my friend to stop by with his puller/installer kit. And for a nice day. Winter is not the time to be fixing this, but I'll survive.

In a strange turn of events, I asked my wife to roll down the windows on the truck (very nice day) and she walked out, turned the key one click too far and it cranked.
Curiosity got the best of me, cranked it over, and it started. No smoke. Coolant level is right where I left it. Oil is still new and clean looking. Was I in some alternative dimension when it stopped cranking two weeks ago? Drove it, ran fine. No smoke. Oddly enough the battery light is now on. Time to toss a MM on it to test the alt.

I'm still replacing the cups as time allows. But now it moves under its own power, again.
Sigh.

*Side thought, I'm wondering if I have a dirty/leaking injector. Two things make me wonder. 1) I just realized I have no idea how old/nasty/waterlogged the 1/4 tank of diesel that came in it actually is. I'll check the fuel filter/drain it into a cup and let it settle. 2) It pulsed during warmup. Like a tiny bit of extra fuel was being squirted in only 1cyl, causing it to rev ~50/100RPM and it did it like clockwork. Went away after warming up. It's never done that before, but I have no history on these injectors.

the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Nov 30, 2021

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Yerok posted:

Got the oil cooler off the shitbox 7.3 to reseal. Both my OBS and super duty sprung a leak in the front on the first cold day of the year.

I guess I should have figured but the inlet end of the coolant side looks pretty crusty. Fins in the oil side look perfect. It wasn't mixing coolant and oil yet so I guess I could clean it up and run it but I probably shouldn't cause it will eventually.

I already drained the block and it was relatively clean coolant that came out so I guess it can sit with a couple gallons of cleanish antifreeze in for a few days.

I really just wanted to get it back together today so I can drive the loving thing.

I have to say, it's great to see someone else "enjoying" their 7.3 ownership experience as much as I am.
Since adding some Amsoil diesel treatment, I've had no issues starting the truck.... knock on wood.
Once I'm over this cold, I've got ball joints and a diff cover to install. Oh and put together the half torn apart interior where I started to re-cover the seats.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I've seen the copper line trick - and like you said for a 4R100 truck, it's not a problem. But boy do I hear you on not wanting to wreck a new clutch. On one of my cars, the PO had the flywheel ground/new clutch installed, but they left the old RMS. 5k miles later and the new clutch is trash and there's a pool of oil when you park. All because of a $10 seal.

Even with the frustrations, they are still great trucks. I'm pretty sure every truck of that era is a time-sink, the difference being some are larger money pits than others.
I figure I have another $3k to dump at this before I'm happy with it and at that point, I'll be in it the same as normal market value. So break even? (Never will happen...lol).

For reference, I'm helping a buddy get his dad's 93 W250 back on the road. He's taken it to a few shops and is already $10k into a truck that now has wheels/tires that won't clear the front fenders, a clogged cooling system, and a bad transmission. Ugh.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Changed the thermostat and water pump on our 14' Wrangler. It would overheat going ~60 down the freeway. I read the plastic pumps had problems and just decided to replace both the thermostat and water pump. After tearing it apart, I could have gotten away with just the thermostat. Someone put a cheap MotoRad in and the housings was cracked at the bleeder. Oh well, $230 later it has new parts that will last another ~80k hopefully.
I hate Chrysler and the 3.6. Who the gently caress makes you REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND MOUNT to install a belt. WHY DOES IT HAVE 3 DIFFERENT BOLT SIZES?!?!






And yes, I am using my FD as a work bench.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

STR posted:

Loaded a different tune, feels like I'm running on 7 cylinders at idle now. :sigh: Runs fine when I give it gas. :iiam:

No CEL yet, but I've only put 2 miles on it. If it pops a flashing CEL tomorrow, I'll pull over and reload the 87 octane tune. If I still have a miss, guess I get to do coils. :homebrew:

I've got a spare set of new in box ebay coils that I think are compatible- I ended up going OEM after blowing that plug out the head.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I swapped the summer wheels/tires on to our dailies last week. Not three days later when driving home late at night I hit a new-since-Friday pot hole - bending not one, but both passenger side wheels. Thankfully it's a minor bend on both and the wheel shop I've used for wheels is only charging $100/wheel to straighten them - but drat it. Our roads are finally going to poo poo and catching up with the rest of the area/state/nation.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

NitroSpazzz posted:

This is what the newer Toyota OEM looks like and what I have on the way

And Nissan/Mazda.

Buy OEM if you can. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F66NZ2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Yerok posted:

Cleaning out the final bore for the 7.3 injector cups. Doing this poo poo in the truck with the cab on loving blows.

The old 620 is so hard the first step is a 90 degree pick and on the back cylinders on the passenger side that means a pick and a light and a mirror.
I should have done mine with the cab off. I've definitely got a leaky injector, but so far no coolant loss.

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