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Oil change for the E39.  Used actual BMW oil for once, it was about the same price as the Castrol Edge I usually get anyway. Also went to the junkyard today. Picked up a distributor cap and rotor for my Volvo for $9. The Volvo has a misfire on every cylinder and I think it's the cap and rotor, even though they have about 10k on them. Saw a VW Passat W8 at the 'yard, too: 
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 06:37
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VelociBacon posted:I have very similar drive-on ramp things for working on my stuff, and have thought about using it for oil changes but was concerned that the oil pan not being level would mean it wouldn't drain fully/properly. Is this not a concern? Or do you do this on a slight downhill slope so that it's level? It's such a slight angle that it's never been a concern. I've been doing it that way for many years. As someone else said, you're never getting all of it anyway. Sir Cornelius posted:Isn't BMW oil actually Castrol Syntec? It's the European formula, yes. From the Old School Maintenance Guide (available through the BMWCCA): quote:Note that the commercially available Castrol products sold at Wal-mart bear no resemblance (other than name) to the Castrol products sold at the BMW dealer and through BMW parts houses. It was $7.45/quart, which is what it usually is at Autozone anyway. ...times nine loving quarts  The manual says 7.9 quarts, but it drank all nine and was right at the top line on the dipstick.
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 16:29
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_firehawk posted:Did you include the volume of the filter? I'm assuming that's where the extra went. I just thought the capacity listed in the manual included the amount in the filter.
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Dec 3, 2012 21:05
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I replaced my fog light bulb. Exciting, I know.
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Jan 13, 2013 07:09
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Fixed the Volvo's loose wiper arm, throttle (the cable had jumped the track) and replaced the passenger side hood catch, so the hood closes fully again. She's back to her old self again!
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Jan 19, 2013 21:56
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Crustashio posted:Did a post-cat O2 sensor. I loving hate these things. I applaud you for doing that in the winter but why didn't you wait until it wasn't all snowy and cold and stuff? A post-cat is hardly anything that requires immediate attention. Unless, of course, you're just masochistic. I mean, I need new rear brakes, but gently caress doing it in this weather, they're not that bad that I can't wait a few more months.
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Feb 17, 2013 00:16
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Not my car, but I changed the oil and wiper blades on my brother's '98 Accord. He had called me a few days ago saying his oil light was on. I had him describe the light, and quickly realized it was the oil pressure light. When I drained the oil, maybe a half-quart came out. He couldn't remember when his oil was changed last. I pulled the code as the check engine light was on, and it threw a P1259 VTEC system malfunction. Doing some research (since I'm unfamiliar with VTEC and Hondas in general) it looks like it runs off of oil pressure and the solenoid is cooled by oil, so I think either one (low level or low pressure) could have thrown it. Amazingly, with fresh oil the car still seemed to drive fine. He was probably driving for at least a week with oil so low he had very little oil pressure.
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Mar 3, 2013 16:22
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I finished replacing the rear pads and rotors on the Volvo. To say they were bad would be an understatement. I only drive the car once a week, so it's something I'd been putting off.    Also, rusty pins are kind of a pain in the rear end. Thanks, Volvo.  Got them out with liberal amounts of liquid wrench, a pin punch I bought at harbor freight and a big fuckin' hammer.
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Jul 29, 2013 23:56
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