|
I managed to put a new battery in my brother's Accord backwards (it was dark) and on the way home from loving that up the timing belt on my 1998 Ford ZX2 jumped a tooth. Edit: I replaced the main fuse in the fuse box of the Accord and everything is peachy. In the last week I have fixed both of my brother's beat up Hondas (95 Integra & 92 Accord). PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Jan 5, 2010 |
#
¿
Jan 5, 2010 20:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 11, 2024 08:17 |
|
|
Skyssx posted:Zetec Timing Belt I had loaned the car to my little brother and then my uncle and both of them were impressed by what a fun little car it was. Then on the way home it lost 90% of its power and idled and ran like poo poo. I pulled the code and it pointed to the engine being out of time. I pulled the belt covers off and there was way too much belt slack in between the two cams. When you replaced the belt did you loosen the cam pulleys? It is a revised service procedure from Ford to make sure the cam belt has the correct amount of play in between the intake and exhaust cam pulleys. Loosen cam pulleys so the rotate free of the cams, install belt, then tighten pulleys. Apparently you also need to remove the cam holder tool while you loosen/tighten the cam pulley bolts or you can break the cams.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2010 00:53
|
|
|
Skyssx posted:Zetec timing belt talk
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2010 21:42
|
|
|
jammyozzy posted:Speaking of timing belts, does anybody remember the post somebody made on here a few months ago about changing a timing belt by chopping the old one in half lengthways and then slipping the new one on? My car will be due a belt change come the summer and I'm curious to see how simple it is. It isn't really that hard to get the belt onto the pulleys, especially on single cams motors in my experience You have to be off by somewhere around 15 degrees to get the timing wrong, at least on the engines that I have worked on. If you are paying attention at all this is almost impossible. If I am replacing a t-belt I am replacing tensioners and idler pulleys and maybe a water pump, and the belt needs to be GONE to be able to replace these parts. Also, I have used an Autozone brand t-belt once and Gates on all the others, and the one AZ belt I used was MUCH harder to get onto the pulleys than the Gates belts. The AZ one was also the first one I ever installed, so maybe that was the reason it was so drat frustrating. In that instance I had my mom and my then-girlfriend wife each holding one cam in place with a wrench while I tried to slip the belt on.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 4, 2010 01:49
|
|
|
I finally got started on tearing down the accessory side of the motor in my 1998 Ford ZX2 to gain access to the timing belt and pulleys. I have reeeeeeally been slacking on that one. Over the weekend I did a four wheel brake job on my brother's friend's 1993 Lincoln Mark 8 and my wife's friends 2002 Ford Crown Vic P71. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Feb 23, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2010 04:03
|
|
|
I broke off one of the bolts for the under engine cover thing. One of the bolts was already broken. I just find places I can stick zip ties for those things. I got the crank pulley bolt broken off via starter tap trick. Top timing cover is off, valve cover is off. I got a pretty good bit done for 45 minutes in the cold rear end garage.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2010 04:09
|
|
|
I will probably pull the motor mount entirely. It wasn't necessary on the BG chassis vehicles I have put t-belts in before (91 Escort GT, 91 Tracer LTS, 94 MX-3) but it made it a lot easier to work. I have big hands (XXL 'Mechanix' gloves) so taking stuff off that is in the way is the norm for me. The crank bolt was easy. For most cars with engines that rotate clockwise (ie not Hondas) you can just put a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt, brace the other end of the breaker bar against the ground and use the key to just barely engage the starter. The torque of the starter motor will break the bolt loose for you with no effort at all. Kind of like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgY3-cAelWo So last Wednesday night I went to my friend's shop to help a different friend replace two rear brake calipers on his 93 Lincoln Mark VIII. We finish up and on the way home I was pulled over for speeding. It turns out that I hadn't updated the address on my driver's license since I moved so I got a fix-it ticket for that as well. (This means I had two weeks to update my license, track down a law enforcement officer, have them sign the ticket and then mail it in for dismissal). There is a DMV down the street from my workplace in an industrial area. I have been driving by a couple times a day to try to swoop in at a time when the line was short. I had no luck with that. So this morning I got up and drove to a different DMV closer to my house and arrived at 8:01 AM. There was no line. It still took FIFTY minutes to change the address on my DL and my car's registration and title. NO LINE. FIFTY MINUTES. Fifty minutes of the DMV lady typing almost non-stop to get my DL and registration updated. And they didn't take my picture or administer an eye exam or anything. I filled out a form, the lady typed and they gave me a black and white temporary driver's license printed on a laser printer. Grumble grumble. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Feb 23, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2010 19:23
|
|
|
I washed the salt off my 1995 Lexus SC400 at the pay and spray car wash. It is looking much better now. I could barely see out of the side windows and it had only been a couple weeks since the last wash.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2010 16:52
|
|
|
I charged the battery from my brother's Integra so I can figure out if I need to put another alternator in it. I am pretty sure it does indeed need a new alternator and I dread putting it on. Not a fun job at all. This car has a belt for the AC, a belt for the alternator, and a third belt for the alternator. Guess which belt is the closest one to the block? I took a wheel off my wife's car and put the full size spare on so that I can take the wheel/tire to the tire shop to have a slow leak repaired. I put the summer wheels on my 1995 Lexus SC400. I lowered the jack too fast so I had to listen to the suspension clunk all the way to my brother's house since the spring didn't go into the top part of the coilover sleeve the way it was supposed to. I got that fixed once I got to my brother's house. I went to my brother's house to try to unstick the driver's side drum that was frozen up. Two good whacks with the hammer and it came loose. I also picked up my shop vac so all my dirty car carpets can be vacuumed out. I dropped off my wife's wheel/tire and another one from my brother's fiancee's car at the tire shop. All this was before 9 AM this morning, which is pretty good for deliberate old me. My wife's wheel turned out to have a small hole and was very slightly bent (but still usable). The other wheel was cracked on the inside and is good for scrap. No matter, I found a replacement wheel for $50 shipped to my door on car-part.com. A couple of weeks ago I helped one of my brother's friends replace the rear brake calipers on his 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII. He was pretty much a newb, but he tried his best to learn and help. His car's driver side fender was all smashed up so I told him about car-part.com thinking he might buy a fender and call me to help put it on. Nope. He bought the fender and took everything apart and then put it all right back together and the car looks as perfect as a seventeen year old daily driven car can.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2010 23:03
|
|
|
Cop posted:Clean out the inside of my car, thoroughly. Don't put the keys in the ignition with the seats out of the car. On many newer cars this will trigger the SRS light and you will need special equipment or a stop at the dealer to clear the trouble code.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2010 17:18
|
|
|
Is the SRS light in the gauge cluster illuminated? Does it flash for a second when the car is started? I'm pretty sure GM kept the airbag wiring separate from the radio wiring. I think the door chime is the only thing you really have to worry about. You can probably find the correct harness that you need on ebay for $40 or less. The retail markup on dash kits and wiring harness is unreal.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2010 04:53
|
|
|
I went to the junkyard and got four stock springs for my brother in law's 1999 Nissan Maxima. The previous owner installed lowering springs with dampers with stock valving. Therefor likewise such as the car bounces like crazy over bumps. My Snap-On cordless electric impact is awesome and I love it. Two things: It was awesome when I bought it used. Over the winter I sent the batteries to Voltman Batteries for rebuilding and now the gun is really badass. The impact gun also answers an important theological question. People have asked for a long time that if there is an all-powerful god can he create a rock so heavy he can't lift it? To answer this question you must first understand that the Snap-On cordless electric impact is all-powerful. I have personally observed it tighten a bolt so tight that the gun could not loosen it afterwards. Ergo god can create a rock so heavy he can't lift it. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Apr 16, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2010 14:07
|
|
|
Tuesday I replaced both outer tie rod ends on my wife's 2000 Honda Accord EX 4cyl mantran coupe. Yesterday I replaced the mantran fluid in my 1992 Honda Accord DX mantran coupe. I have also replaced six or seven light fixtures in our house in the last week, mostly for cosmetic reasons, but a couple were broken. I also hung up some pegboard and a retracting reel light/extension cord on the ceiling in the garage.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2010 11:54
|
|
|
I FINALLY finished installing a new timing belt in my 1998 Ford ZX2. I also replaced the water pump, valve cover gasket, the serpentine belt, replaced the coolant. I cleaned out my garage a little bit and moved the stand up tool chest I got for Christmas over to a spot by the door into the house so I can grab tools without having to crawl around cars and get my feet all dirty. Tomorrow I replace the alternator in my brother's (maybe mine in a couple days) 1995 Acura Integra. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Apr 25, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2010 03:01
|
|
|
You can take a (relatively clean) piece of paper and bend it around to improvise a funnel. Any of you with old cars with mantrans: replace the oil in your transmission. It will probably be pretty easy and the shifting will feel a lot better. I replaced the gear oil in a couple of Honda boxes and they are waaaay improved. Just make sure you open the filler hole before you drain the fluid out. It would be a drat shame if you got the fluid out but couldn't put more in. My wife and I bought a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L auto four door with part time 4x4 yesterday. I also went to the junkyard and grabbed some clips for the interior of the 1998 ZX2 I am selling. I used some bug & tar remover to clean some gunk off the front end of the ZX2 (waxed area afterwards of course). The day before that I put UV leak detector in the AC system of the ZX2 and discovered big leaks in the compressor and one of the hoses where it transitions from rubber to metal. Oh, and ordered a new rear hub for my 1995 Lexus SC400 to replace the one that got wiped out along with the wheel bearing. Here is a picture of sad Lexus:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Both sides are taken apart like that. OMG so many loving ball joints! And how on earth am I going to get the parking (drum) brake stuff all back together?! PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:10 on May 9, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 9, 2010 14:44
|
|
|
Grashnak posted:Now you can barely even see a difference between the old and new paint. I'm honestly rather amazed that 19 year old red paint has come up so well.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2010 14:58
|
|
|
Grr. A couple weeks ago I replaced the alternator in my 1995 Acura Integra SE (a GS-R minus the VTEC motor, it has GS-R suspension). To pull the alternator out it is "easiest" to pull the driver side axle out. To do this one must remove the fork mounted to the bottom of the shock. To remove the fork one must remove a pinch bolt that fixes the fork to the shock. Well the pinch bolt broke. The car COULD NOT be reassembled with a broken pinch bolt. So I had to remove the shock and the fork together to fix this problem. To remove the shock/fork assembly I had to have a lot more travel on the lower control arm than I could get with the sway bar link in place. Of course the sway bar link broke off where it connects to the lower control arm. I got an identical damper fork and pinch bolt from a 94 Civic at the junkyard and put the car back together with the broken end link. I ordered a full set of end links on the internet and waited for them to come in. They came yesterday. So I jacked the car up and proceeded to remove the sway bar link from the sway bar. It fought and fought and fought. The threaded part sticking out of the mini ball joint kept spinning when I turned the nut. I spent ninety minutes trying to keep the threaded part from spinning with a Vice Grips while turning the nut. I finally got it after heating everything up with a propane torch for a few minutes. And then I opened up the box of end links and they are the WRONG ONES GOD drat IT. I ordered the right ones, they just decided to send me the Integra LS end links that are just a threaded rod with some bushings. gently caress!
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2010 18:20
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:So your brother finally convinced you to trade cars, hunh? Then my wife and I bought a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4x4 four door. I still have the 1995 Lexus SC400 and my wife still has her 2000 Honda Accord EX five-speed coupe. Technically I still have the ZX2. My friend gave me half the money for it and asked me to keep driving it and shake it out before he drives it down to Arizona for her. Today I installed an Alpine CD player with aux input and iPod cable into previously mentioned 1999 Jeep.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2010 03:06
|
|
|
This weekend I: Put an aftermarket CD player in 1998 Ford ZX2 Replaced downstream oxygen sensor in 1998 Ford ZX2 Replaced front sway bar links on 1995 Acura Integra Installed aftermarket CD player in 1995 Acura Integra Gave 1995 Integra basic interior/exterior cleaning, lots of work left to go Put 2000 Jeep Wrangler wheels on 1999 Jeep Cherokee (used existing tires) Removed foam tape residue from 1999 Jeep Cherokee Cleaned glass with Stoner's Invisible Glass on Cherokee and Integra, then applied Rain-X Did not work at all on putting rear spindles with newly pressed-in wheel bearings back onto 1995 Lexus SC400 sitting in the middle of the garage on jack stands.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2010 22:52
|
|
|
I put the rear spindles with new wheel bearings on my 1995 Lexus SC400. Back on the ground!  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2010 03:41
|
|
|
I drove it today for the first time in about a month! For proof here it is in my work parking lot:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2010 15:41
|
|
|
It barely even counts as my ride, but I put a timing belt in the 1998 Ford ZX2 I bought the other day with "bent valves". I knew it was a non-interference motor, so I bought it and put a timing belt in it. It fired up on the first try tonight.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2010 03:13
|
|
|
I pulled the timing belt off my green ZX2 and put it back in using a new one piece lower timing gear. I also put in a new water pump and valve cover gasket. I ran it for ten minutes in the garage, and yet I wasn't even around the block before the car lost power and then died. The bolt holding the upper t-belt idler pulley backed itself out and the t-belt went slack. I bought the car disassembled and that bolt was the one that looked most appropriate for the t-belt idler. I guess I was wrong about that. gently caress!!! At least it is a non-interference motor.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2010 12:23
|
|
|
I got a bolt from a junkyard car and put the whole thing back together on the side of the street because my brother was too lazy to come help push. mwells: did you polish those or get new lights?
|
|
#
¿
May 24, 2010 00:44
|
|
|
Last night I put the exhaust manifold back on my 1998 Ford Escort ZX2. I had removed the EM in order to look for a big oil leak in between the EM and the block. I though I had found and repaired the leak. Before I put the front end back on the ground I ran the engine for a few minutes. There was no leaking or burning oil smell. I got up early this morning and replaced the brake pads on the car and drove it to work. I hadn't made it three miles before I could smell burning oil and see smoke coming out from under the hood again. gently caress! As an aside, the design of the front brake calipers on these cars is completely retarded. I have done pads on this and similar cars several times and every time it strikes me how dumb the design is.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2010 17:30
|
|
|
I changed the oil in my 1995 Acura Integra SE, 1995 Lexus SC400 and 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport. 10W-40 for all since they all have high miles and it is summertime. I also changed the MTX fluid in the Integra. This made a huge mess and smelled terrible. I did the smart thing and removed the bolt for the fill hole first, since a transmission you can't fill with fluid is no fun. Well, someone had apparently filled this transmission using a different hold because a LOT of fluid went all over the garage floor when I removed the filler plug. And of course the filler plug went into the drain bucket and I didn't figure this out until later. Big mess, oily fingers, grumble grumble. I also replaced the cam pulley/spark plug valley covers on my 1995 SC400. They have been off the car for over a year, but after dealing with the aftermath of stuff getting into the timing cover on another car I decided to play it safe. The car threw a code as soon as I started it; I had forgotten to plug two big vacuum lines back in. The car was purring like a kitten afterward. I did not know the Jeep needed 6 quarts of oil (I've only had it for about 3 weeks). That is fine. The Integra only needs 4 quarts, so they can team up to drink down two 5 quart bottles. Tomorrow night I need to change the oil in my wife's 2000 Honda Accord EX 2.3L five-speed. I will probably change the MTX fluid in that car too since I have two more bottles of Honda Genuine fluid and a new drain plug gasket for it. I only change the oil in my cars twice a year since I don't put many miles on anything since I switch cars so often. Sadly, my wife's car gets the same treatment. I hate changing oil. Every time I do it there is a mess and I swear next time I will just take it someplace. And yet, I buy oil and filters and do it myself anyway. The green ZX2 HAD a nasty oil leak that left stains all over my driveway, garage, and the street in front of my house. I spent like two hours today pushing Oil-Dri around and grinding it into the stains with my shoes. All the concrete does look a lot better now. My neighbor said I can borrow his pressure washer after he picks it up from his storage locker this week. I have never used one before and am looking forward to it. Saturday I washed, clayed, and waxed the 1998 Ford Escort ZX2 I bought with a broken timing belt and nursed back to health. The paint looks really good except for all the scratches and dings the previous owner got from parking in college parking lots. The sides of my wife's Accord look like the surface of the moon because of all the parking lot dings, especially the passenger side.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2010 05:04
|
|
|
I cleaned the inside and the outside glass of my green 1998 Ford Escort ZX2 using Stoner's Invisible Glass and their awesome Reach and Clean Tool. Then I applied Rain-X to the outside glass. Tonight I will change the engine oil and MTX fluid in my wife's 2000 Honda Accord EX. If it doesn't rain I will probably wash and wax it too. Maybe even use the clay bar if I am feeling really enegertic (unlikely).
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2010 17:08
|
|
|
I put a CD player and two new pairs of speakers in my 1998 Dodge Intrepid. Sounds good!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2010 04:21
|
|
|
I noticed a weird last night noise in from the driver's rear wheel in the 1998 Intrepid I bought a couple days ago. I jacked up the driver's rear corner and spun the wheel. It made a terrible sound and then kind of stopped. I pulled off the wheel, caliper and rotor and a bent-up little clip fell out from inside the rotor hat. It was part of the drum-in-hat parking brake. I vacuumed the car out before I went to work. The previous owner must have loved to eat in the car because there were all manner of crumbs under the front seats. I couldn't get my vacuum to reach all of them so I just unbolted the seats. The carpets are clean now. Dark colored carpets drive me nuts because you can see every single little grain of sand in the car. Here is a picture of the CD player I installed yesterday:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2010 16:07
|
|
|
It worked yesterday. I think something got out of shape when I was beating the rotor hat with a hammer breaking it loose from the hub. A misplaced whack of the hammer also popped a wheel stud out. I reseated the stud, but the back end of the stud may have broken some stuff loose in the parking brake system. I don't recall anything really being rusty while I was back there.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2010 18:56
|
|
|
It was one of these clips, but it was all bent out of shape, probably from violence inside the rotor hat. Thanks for the picture Autozone! And again, this didn't happen in a vacuum, I just did brake work on all four corners of the car and I had to use IMPACT FORCE to remove all four brake rotors. All of them were stamped "Made in Canada" so I think maybe they were original equipment (at 200k miles?!?) or whoever last had brake work done on this car took it to the dealer or used OEM parts. I just recently had to deal with some parking brake drum-in-hat hardware on my 1995 Lexus SC400 when I took the rear spindles off for wheel bearing replacement. I got it all back together but I never adjusted the star wheel when it was re-assembled so the p-break doesn't work on that car right now. I had an idea in my head that they were self-adjusting, but NOT SO. I have been too busy to take all the brakes off again to mess with it. On the side I looked at this morning the shoes were kind of loose and floppy inside. I don't know if this was because of the missing hardware or not, but I'm not going to drive the car until I replace the whole set of little clips and whatnot. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jun 11, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2010 19:19
|
|
|
Finished changing a couple sensors on the transmission and took it on a 100 mile trip as a prelude to a 1500 mile journey next week.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2010 17:05
|
|
|
trouser chili posted:Wow, I haven't seen one in such nice shape in a long long time. Tell more about it. I re-soldered the solder joints in the EFI main relay from my wife's 2000 Honda Accord. This is a pretty common part to fail on Honda Accord and Civics from the mid 1980s all the way through to the early 2000s. I also re-soldered some solder joints in the automatic climate control in that Intrepid I bought recently in an effort to make the display come back to life. The controls all work, but the display is blank so it is hard to tell if the AC is on or if the system is set to recirculate. We shall see tonight if the Intrepid ATC fix worked. The repair on the Accord won't really show results for a while since the problem is intermittent. It has only manifested itself twice, both on very hot days when the car was parked outside in the sun. A while back my mower wouldn't start. I didn't have a lot of time to look at it, and whenever I had time no one was around to pull the starter cord so I could check for spark. I borrowed my mom's mower a few times. In the mean time my father-in-law's mower broke a wheel. His mower was nearly identical to mine. He went to Sears and they wanted something like $100 for a pair of wheels. So he bought a new mower. He gave me his old mower. First I tried to swap the wheels but they didn't fit. So I swapped over the height adjustment mechanisms and everything bolted together like How It's Made.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2010 16:45
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I re-soldered the solder joints in the EFI main relay from my wife's 2000 Honda Accord. This is a pretty common part to fail on Honda Accord and Civics from the mid 1980s all the way through to the early 2000s. The repair on the auto HVAC control display on the Intrepid was not successful. I found another one on car-part.com for $35 shipped that should be here Tuesday or Wednesday next week.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2010 15:59
|
|
|
On my wife's 2000 Honda Accord EX five-speed I changed the oil and filter. I wanted to change the mantran fluid, but the filler plug was frozen. Getting to the vehicle speed sensor, another possible place to fill the transmission, was too much work so I skipped it. I know the fluid was changed out around 30k miles ago anyway. I will replace the fluid in the event that the VSS needs to be removed for replacement. The brake fluid level sensor is bad, so sometimes the brake light is on for no reason. I had ordered a new sensor and I put it in yesterday. The cap was very easy to replace and now the brake light is off. Her car has some seatbelt buckles that are faulty and set off the SRS light. There is a recall from Honda for this, but they won't fix her car because it has a salvage title. So I got some junkyard buckles from a car built after the recall. I had to pull the seats to be able to replace the seat belt buckles. Of course once the seats were pulled I had to detail the area under the seats. I vacuumed and used Tough Stuff carpet cleaner and got the carpet under the seats looking really nice. There had been a big soda spill and the carpet cleaner did an excellent job cleaning it up. It has been a long time since the car has seen a coat of wax, so I washed it, ran my Griot's clay bar over it, and hit it with a coating of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. It is not the greatest wax ever but it goes on easy, buffs off easy, and lasts a long time in my experience. I also put some purple gel tire shine on the tires and hit the exterior glass with Rain-X (except the rear view mirrors). I cleaned the inside glass with Stoner's Invisible Glass and the Stoner's interior glass cleaning tool. Today it is pouring rain. Oh well, at least the car has a good coat of wax on it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2010 15:58
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2010 16:00
|
|
that's one of my favorite things to do. Something about looping the belt around all the accessories just so is just kind of fun.
|
I swapped out the AC compressor on my 1995 Lexus SC400. I still need to replace the receiver/drier and take the car in to have the system vacuumed out and refilled with oil and R-134a.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 16:05
|
|
|
I put seats from a del Sol in my 1995 Acura Integra SE. Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2010 15:55
|
|
|
I am pretty sure that is a bad calculation because my 1995 Lexus SC400 which I am pretty sure weighs a little less and has better aero has the same motor and I have never seen any better than 22 mpg on the freeway. V-8, heavy car, automatic transmission and RWD pretty much guarantees poor gas mileage. I changed the receiver/drier in my 1995 Lexus SC400. I also put the timing belt and spark plug covers back on. I just need to take the car to a shop to have the system evacuated and filled with oil and refrigerant. A black car with black leather interior is not fun at all on 95*F days with 85% humidity. gently caress you Nebraska summers.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2010 15:39
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 11, 2024 08:17 |
|
|
I called around to find out how much it is going to cost to evacuate and refill the AC system in my Lexus. The closest thing I got to a straight answer so far is $160. For ten minutes of labor, $30 worth of oil and refrigerant, and maybe a half hour of the car being hooked to the vacuum pump. For that much I think I am going to buy my own loving vacuum pump and finish this poo poo myself. The second replacement auto climate control for my 1998 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.2L came in. This one works, the display lights up and everything. I swapped the radiator in the Intrepid for one I bought on https://www.car-part.com since the old one had a pinhole leak. The radiator was in and the car was coming up to normal operating temperature when the upper hose blew off. I forgot to put the second hose clamp back on the upper radiator hose. I am stupid. My cable operated hose clamp pliers are still loving awesome btw. If you work on cars a lot you should get one.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2010 06:22
|
|