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Picked it up from the dealer for some service. I love the difference in parts and labor. The air mix door on my 300C was causing the windows to fog something fierce. Turns out you have to pull the entire dash to fix it.
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Mar 5, 2013 01:56
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Friend's been working on his 1986 325i. He works at a body shop, so work area is nice. Worked on the dash this weekend. Dash all out. Quite a mess.  You can see all the cracks in it.  Grooved out all the cracks and filled them with repair, then filled and smoothed them.  Textured, primed, and painted.  Finished product. 
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Apr 29, 2013 18:33
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The material we repaired the dash with was SEM FUS-143 Lord Fusor Extreme Bumper Repair Adhesive (you can find it on the net for less than $20 a tube). It's an epoxy in a tube. We used a die grinder to groove out the cracks larger, and then filled them with the epoxy.  We let the epoxy set up, then we sanded it down. We covered it with some polyester body filler and sanded it to make the dash nice and smooth. We sprayed it with Wurth Stone Guard Black (it comes in different textures, you want the one with the fine texture and we actually got in in Gray). It can be purchased online (unless you live in CA). We primed it before we sprayed the texture on, but you wouldn't have to. It looked like this after the texture.  Then we just sprayed color and uv coating over that. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 01:20
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General_Failure posted:How do you handle sanding it back and not wrecking the surrounding vinyl which is usually pretty thin? You just let the sandpaper do the work. You have to be gentle, but the epoxy works pretty easy, and you're gonna smooth it out with body filler after anyway. It takes a little time because you're careful, but it's not that bad.
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Apr 30, 2013 03:09
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Got the dash back in for the most part. Just some details to finish.
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May 3, 2013 02:06
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Did some buffing today. My friend works at a body shop, and he brought his big buffer and we went to work polishing my car. We used this:  and hit it like this:  It's so smooth. Way easier than the clay bar method.
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Jul 6, 2013 22:10
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Bovril Delight posted:I thought the point of the clay bar was to pull the imperfections off the car into the clay, whereas with the buffing it isn't going to do that? I used the clay bar not too long ago on it, so it really didn't need it again. Buffing it got rid of some of the small scratches I had and gave it that smooth feel like it did after you use a clay bar on it. I was just trying to compare the amount of work involved. We buffed the entire car, and I detailed the interior in about an hour, compared to the 3 or 4 hours it took me to clay the entire car.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:41
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TrinityOfDeath posted:It takes you 3 hours to clay your car? I can get my father-in-laws Durango done in 45 minutes, under 30 if I have someone helping with the towels. If I go full out and do all the paint you can see, yeah. Doing the big areas isn't a big deal, but getting in all the areas under the door handles and stuff takes a little time. Getting a creeper out and doing the panels under the door and whatnot is probably 30 minutes alone. By the time I wash, clay, and then detail spray it, it probably takes close to 3 hours. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 03:06
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Another thing to do if it still won't budge after you've drilled it is to heat it with a touch. The bolt will swell when you heat it, then contract because it's been drilled in the center. After it cools you can generally use an extractor to remove it.
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Jul 15, 2013 18:46
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kastein posted:I generally don't heat the bolt, I will heat the part that it's screwed into though. Eh. We heat the bolts here at work. As an industrial mechanic, I see my fair share of broken hardware. Whatever works really.
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Jul 15, 2013 18:55
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kastein posted:I've got no problem with "if it works, run with it", I've just always gone the other way for some reason. I guess it's probably a lot easier to heat the bolt than the part it goes into when you're working on something huge. I work in one of the world's largest polyethylene plants. If you buy Tyson chicken, Nestle Bottled Water, or Pepsi, I've seen the plastic it comes in. We extrude the plastic (blown extrusion), print it, and either slit it into sheeting or convert it into bags. It's sometimes fun, but in the summer it's about 110ºF all the time, especially where they extrude the film. Each extruder is basically about half a ton of chrome plated steel bits heated to 400ºF. During the hottest days, the handrails on the upper levels (blown extruders are 2-4 stories tall) get so hot you can't touch them with your bare hands. I enjoy the challenge of my job, I do everything from troubleshooting PLCs and servo controls to changing bearings 3 feet in diameter.
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Jul 16, 2013 07:15
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jammyozzy posted:I actually went to these guys in the end: http://www.drill-service.co.uk/index.asp because they sell extensions, I think even a 1/4" drive extension will be too big to grip the end of an M10 tap. Also turns out it's M10 x 1.5, good thing I checked that instead of just eye-balling it. If you get 12 point sockets, you can usually find one that will fit on the end of it pretty snug.
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Mar 22, 2014 17:32
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I found my local Menards had full synthetic oil on sale with a mail in rebate for $2.88 a quart. Ran over, picked up 7 quarts and a filter. Changed the oil and filter, and put a new ac compressor on the 300C. The clutch had gone bad in it. Ran it over to my friend's body shop, and he charged the ac for me. Cold air and fresh oil. Feels good.
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Jul 28, 2017 05:26
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I jacked up the ole 300C and put brakes all the way around it. They weren't worn, but there was a ton of brake dust and they squeaked at low speed. Since I got Bosch pads from Amazon for $40, I just decided to change them. I also installed LED headlights in both the high and low beams. I got Auxbeam. They're pretty bright. Let's see how they hold up.  
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Aug 8, 2017 03:30
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Darchangel posted:According to the videos and articles I've seen so far, they are bright, up close, but halogens typically have a longer reach. As has been said, probably depends on reflector, and how the LED is designed. It's tough to get an LED to mimic the dispersion pattern of an incandescent. From what I've seen, they aren't all dispersed like in the video. Mine still have a defined cutoff. The high beams lit up the stop sign at the end of my road from a long, long distance away. I need new housings anyway, as the lenses have some oxidation that I couldn't polish out. I had a bulb burn out, and at a few bucks cheaper, I thought I'd try LED. 
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Aug 8, 2017 23:29
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Raluek posted:Are the cutoffs bowing, or is that just a trick of the eye from how uneven your garage door is? If they're not straight, I'd be concerned about what the light pattern is shaped like at the edges, because that is about where oncoming lanes would end up. Still, the pattern is better than I was expecting. What's it look like from 25-30 feet away? It's just my lovely garage door. I have a new metal one to put up, but it's down on the list of things to do.
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Aug 9, 2017 01:18
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violentlycitrus posted:bro im not going to beat up on you because as i said i bought auxbeam led replacements and all i can say is get in another car and park it 10 15 feet away in front of yours and see if you think the pattern and the brightness are ok. Standing and sitting in a car 20 to 30 feet from it, they're bright, but not like "shining directly into your eyes" bright. If you're not staring directly at the lights from that distance, they're fine. They're also super white (like the color), so they seem a little more robust than they are.
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Aug 9, 2017 04:28
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So last week, the chrome cladding fell off my passenger side rear tire. I lost the center cap, but luckily the cladding stayed mostly on thanks to the balancing weight and the tire stem. So I did a quick google search, and $65 had me a brand new center cap. I had some heavy duty 3M epoxy adhesive, so I cleaned up the cast aluminum wheel as best I could, put a bead of adhesive down, and put it back on.  I guess I'll see if it can last until I get my 22s for it here in a couple months. At least I don't look like a slob driving a car with one oddball wheel. 
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Sep 3, 2017 19:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I've never seen cladding like that. I assume all Chrysler stock wheels are similar. It's a cast aluminum wheel with a plastic chrome cover glued to it with some sort of adhesive. The adhesive had become rock hard. I knocked it off with a putty knife, then hit it with a wire wheel. sneakyfrog posted:does that mess with your wheel balance at all? I'm sure it'll make a slight difference in theory, but won't change much practically. I'll find out this week .
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Sep 3, 2017 20:46
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The "chrome" on my front grill is starting to peel off. I found a cheap on on Amazon for under $45. It came, and it's sturdy, but I didn't like how the "mesh" was faux chrome also. I masked everything off and painted the mesh satin black. Tomorrow, I'll take my bumper off, replace the driving lenses and bulbs, and put the grill in.
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Sep 6, 2017 20:42
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Rhyno posted:Make sure you buy a "B" to put in that empty spot on the grill. Yeah, no. I'm going to try to salvage my stock one. If not, my best friend is a body guy, I'll get a new one.
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Sep 7, 2017 00:44
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So pulled the bumper off, and replaced the grille and fog lights. I was impressed by what I got for the price. The fog lights were $35 on ebay and were actually direct replacement, and the $45 grille fit perfectly. My friend is a body guy, and he said it's one of the best he's had to deal with. He said tons of aftermarket body parts are trash and he's shocked companies can get away with selling them. I replaced the halogen bulbs in the fog lights with LED. The old ones were nasty.
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Sep 10, 2017 18:06
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ExecuDork posted:I need to replace my fog lights, and $35 on eBay seems ideal for my budget. Rather different vehicle (97 Ranger) but if you have a recommendation for a seller or parts-maker I'd love to hear it. They came from a seller on eBay called dt_moto. The fog lights were from SpyderAuto (SpyderAuto.com).
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Sep 11, 2017 15:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I don't even like 300s (specifically because of all of the chrome), but that looks drat good. Thanks. I think I'm going to get black headlight housings, and I'm considering removing the body trim to eliminate some more chrome. When I get my CNC machine finished, I'm thinking of making custom C badges to replace the trim. My projects are probably: 1. Headlights 2. 360A Mechman Alternator 3. New head unit, door and rear speakers, amplifier. Finish beauty panel for subwoofer. 4. Trim delete, probably going to dip the car for giggles this winter. 5. 22" wheels and new tires. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 11:29
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bEatmstrJ posted:Well, that's on purpose. Its a "color-shift" color, so yes, it changes colors depending on light/angle. Its the "Phoenix" pearl color from plastidip. What's the actual color? I'm going to dip my car soon. I was thinking about colorshift. You used the DYC sprayer? I was going to try shooting it through my DeVilbiss primer gun.
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Oct 14, 2017 22:58
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Enourmo posted:Finally got my stuff from Kenwood, and the stereo is mounted in the Crown Vic. All these months I thought the stock speakers were either blown, or just that crappy compared to the system in the MSP. Turns out no, the speakers sound fine, i just get crap FM reception, through either the Ford stereo or this one; currently playing some Pink Floyd over Bluetooth and it sounds excellent. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i519_universal-antennas.html An antenna is an antenna. If you want to add a second one to improve reception, all you need is a y adapter (cheap) and another antenna. Your head unit doesn't know or care if you have 15 antenna. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 12:36 on Oct 29, 2017 |
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Oct 29, 2017 12:25
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Just buy the proper installation harness, trim it, solder and shrink it, and install your stuff. Never use wire nuts or mechanical connections. It's not that difficult or expensive to do properly.
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Nov 3, 2017 04:09
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They make glass polish. I've used the 3m stuff, but I know Meguir's and other brands make some also. It's kinda what I use on my watch crystals, only more robust.
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Nov 10, 2017 17:44
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Colostomy Bag posted:God I can't think of it now but 20 years ago the flavor of the day was some cleanser and some newspaper. Ajax?
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Nov 10, 2017 18:27
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I took the door trim off. Working toward getting rid of a lot of the chrome bits. Black headlights and black 22" wheels are next on the agenda.
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Nov 14, 2017 21:45
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Yay! Not smoke, the non reflector parts are just black instead of chrome. 
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Nov 14, 2017 23:08
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Why is there a speaker in the headlight? I wish. Just projector style headlights.
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Nov 14, 2017 23:37
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 Got up early, went to the hardware store, picked up some dip while I was there. Came home and dipped the factory wheels as a black trial.
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Nov 15, 2017 17:43
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I masked off most of the chrome pieces and dipped them gray. Just a test to see how much I like it prior to spraying the entire car.
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Nov 21, 2017 23:11
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Peeled all masking off. I like it without so much chrome. I think I'll dip it with an accent color when I do it. My smoke fog lights get delivered today. Hoping to install my new black headlights and fog lights after Union business today. I took the bumper off and installed the new lighting on the front. 
EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 17:29
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Ordered some custom decals to replace the badging I removed until my cnc is finished so I can make aluminum ones. Put them on. Had a Check Engine light, so I hooked up the OBD scanner, and it showed p0158, which is the O2 sensor behind the catalytic converter being stuck on high voltage. Cleared the fault and monitored the voltage, it never showed above 0.3V. I dunno. I'm going to keep an eye on it. I might just swap it, because as it gets colder, my remote start won't stay running if I have a Check Engine light, and I don't want to get into a cold car when it's freezing.
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Nov 26, 2017 01:47
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Powershift posted:If i saw non-stock hemi badging on a mopar, i would immediately assume it's the 2.7 liter. The C badge is still on the trunk, but I decided I'd try a little something on the fender to see how it worked. I'm loving the look without the side trim, I just want a way to put a few badges back on it. When my cnc gets finished, I'm probably making a badge similar to the stock one with Hemi on it somewhere, since my trim actually doesn't say Hemi on the car anywhere.
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Nov 26, 2017 02:00
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Swapped out the O2 sensor. The check engine light came on after a day of driving. Hopefully this fixes it, since I grounded the plug and the OBD reader showed 0.0V, meaning the wiring is good. If this doesn't fix the issue, I either have a bad pcm or catalytic converter on bank 2 (the passenger side). It's only 30 bucks and took me less than 15 minutes, so I went ahead and did the 98% fix and I'm crossing my fingers.
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Nov 27, 2017 21:07
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Trying to smoke out my taillights a bit and blacking out the emblem in the back. I might just remove the emblem altogether, but I'm just playing around for now. 
EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 17:51
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savesthedayrocks posted:My unsolicited opinion: keep the smoked emblem, remove the smoked tails and advert for the dealership. The dealer advert is gone as soon as everything completely dries. I'll see whether I like it when I get it into the sun.
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Dec 3, 2017 19:22
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