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Last weekend was window motor and regulator. Tomorrow is blower motor. Maybe a radiator flush if I'm feeling saucy.
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May 29, 2009 14:33
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Money Walrus posted:I'm about to do both on a Volvo 740. I've been putting off the blower mother and regulator for so long since I hate drilling out rivets and the fan is supposed to be a bitch. Any advice? Not sure, I have a Grand Prix, so all I need to worry about is having every metric and US sockets, as well as all the sets of Philips, Flat, and Torx screwdrivers.
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May 30, 2009 02:58
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Good News: Replaced my blower motor in 30 minutes. Bad News: Noticed a slight drip of coolant coming into the cabin from the heater core.
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May 30, 2009 13:01
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DILLIGAF posted:Tore apart the passenger door on the Vette, trying to figure out why the window only worked intermittently. Make sure it isn't the regulator as well, or replace the regulator also if you can. I just did this on my Grand Prix a few weeks ago, except mine seemed to work less when it was humid out. Same problem though, went down fine, had all kinds of issues going back up. I bought just a motor and it worked for a few days until completely locking up in the down position. I got a new regulator and now it works better than the other side.
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Jun 6, 2009 20:05
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DILLIGAF posted:Where is the regulator? Not in the door on my 95. The regulator is the thing that the window rides up and down on. The motor moves the regulator. They either sell the motor and regulator together, or separately. I tried to save some money by just doing the motor, but that ended up screwing me in the end.
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Jun 6, 2009 23:16
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Refilled my windshield washer fluid. 
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Jul 10, 2009 03:18
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FogHelmut posted:Refilled my windshield washer fluid. Noticed that my windshield washer fluid bottle has a leak.  Also, Replaced both headlights because one was out. Why don't these ever go out at the same time? I know you're supposed to replace both because they're supposed to fail at near similar times, but I don't like to throw things out that work, so now I have a small collection of used but still working headlights. And replaced one fog light because one was out, even though I never really use the fog lights.
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Jul 10, 2009 13:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I was there a few months ago. At first I tried epoxy but I couldn't find the leak accurately and it doesn't seem to work on ABS plastic anyway. Mine is stupid and under the battery and behind the headlight, but on the right side. Hooray GM. I hope it doesn't involve removing wheels and fenders.
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Jul 10, 2009 23:42
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- Replaced broken heater core - New thermostat, housing gasket, and water outlet gasket - New radiator cap - Radiator flush with one of those hook your garden hose up to your car kits Let me tell you the worst thing about replacing your heater core. It is finding a pair of pliers that fit between the engine and the fire wall and under the air conditioning lines and between various other hoses so you can access those horrible squeeze type hose clamps that hold the hoses onto the heater core. Holy gently caress. I ended up just pulling on the hoses really hard until they came off. Getting them back on wasn't as much of an issue because I could angle the squeeze parts so that it wasn't that bad. Though, after I finished, I realized I had a whole drawer full of the screw type hose clamps. Things that I learned: - Plastic petcocks are loving stupid. - Buckets catch antifreeze better than oil drip pans. - People at Advanced Auto know a whole lot more than the people at Pep Boys, like that "the rubber o-ring that goes on the thermostat" is called a "water outlet gasket." - The rubber o-ring that goes on the thermostat is called the water outlet gasket. - Hose clamps are annoying. Things that I am still confused about: - I may be running 30% antifreeze / 70% water. - Some of that water may still be hose water. I drained the hose water and filled with distilled, ran the engine, then drained that. I'm not 100% positive that every time I drained, I was draining everything. When you open the petcock, is the engine supposed to be warm? Running? Not running? Things that I broke: - The plastic petcock. - A metal clip that connects to the body and the center console screws into fell somewhere into the body under the floor. - My HUD is now in KPH instead of MPH, and my trip computer/car status display is not lit up. I forgot to plug something back in. The good news is that nothing is leaking. The engine doesn't get too hot. When it does get warm, the fans come on and it actually cools down now. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jul 13, 2009 |
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Jul 13, 2009 03:12
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BigKOfJustice posted:Last time I saw something like that was a truck with a siren/PA system on it. It was wired directly with speaker wire and wire nuts with no relays. Nothing like a few amps going through a dashboard switch. What if I wire nutted and then electrical taped all around the nut and wires?
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Jul 20, 2009 14:23
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Since my car decided not to start last weekend, today I: - changed oil - replaced PCV valve - replaced fuel filter (thank god for PB Blaster) - completely cleaned the interior - quick exterior wash Still terrified of changing my spark plugs. edit- Forgot to mention that I replaced the burnt out lights in my trip computer display. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jul 26, 2009 |
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Jul 25, 2009 22:19
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I used to be able to charge up my AC every few weeks before it leaked out again, but it wont take a charge anymore. I think its dead for real now.
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Jul 27, 2009 21:37
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Fixed my cupholder that I broke when I sat on it. JB Weld Putty and a nail I found in my garage. I lost the spring which swings it open, but it still works fine. The best part is that the putty is the same exact color as the plastic. Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 15:42
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Pulled my windshield washer fluid bottle to find the leak. Leak was coming from the pump. The pump still pumps, and I'm not about to go buy a $30 pump, so I used JB Weld Putty to make a shell around the pump. Now it does not leak.
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Sep 5, 2009 22:21
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Replaced the battery in my keyfob because I have to be a foot from the car for it to work. Turns out I can now be 2 feet away and my keyfob/car sucks. Also ordered a new set of wires for my trunk because it wont pop with either the interior button or the keyfob button. It stopped working one day after I crammed a bunch of stuff in there. All the connections are connected, so we shall see if a new harness works.
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Sep 12, 2009 21:54
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Set out to do all of my struts, but found that Rockauto had sent me 2 Left Rear struts. So I called them and I am returning one of those in exchange for a right one. I did the front struts, which would have taken 20 minutes per side since I was just replacing everything with Quick Struts, but my sway bar link bolts were rusted to hell. The first one broke in half.  I got it out with some Robogrip.  Since it broke, I needed a new one. Advanced Auto only had one left in stock, but I figured I should get 2 and do both sides, so I went to Pep Boys to get a second. Moog looked like it was better quality, but they cost the same price.  The other side was in one piece, but still rusted, and the bushings were horrible anyway. I hit it with PB Blaster, a blow torch until the bushing caught on fire, and several hammers. Eventually I destroyed it enough to get it out. This is my awesome breaker bar of justice.  The car is definitely higher on the front end.  Overall it was an easy job aside from the rusted bolts. However, my control arm bushings look like poo poo, and my tie rod end boots are also in poor condition.
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Sep 20, 2009 22:52
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Ziploc posted:My sister has a FWD V6 GM car and hers broke too. I personally think that design is a retarded way to connect a sway bar to a control arm. Honestly, it is retarded. There's that hollow plastic spacer in between the bushings there, and it was full of bits of gravel for some reason. I imagine that water would collect and sit in there, causing it to rust, which is why it broke at that point. The one on the other side was all rusted in, and I just smashed the plastic piece off with a hammer. The replacement parts had a metal spacer that slid snugly over the bolt.
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Sep 21, 2009 21:49
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Took it for an alignment because I just did all the struts and everything was crooked.
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Oct 7, 2009 17:24
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Removed my subwoofer. It would have been cool to have something so obnoxious back in highschool, but now its just obnoxious. It's funny how once you have money to do things, you don't care about those things anymore. It was mostly just a 'see if I could do it' project, built from various eBay parts. I never really secured it in the trunk properly, and it took up too much room anyway. I guess I'll sell it and use the money to upgrade my front speakers since I blew one out. However, I do still have a power line running to the trunk. I unhooked it from the battery and taped up the ends. Any electrical devices I should install in my trunk?
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Oct 11, 2009 16:57
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TAG BODY SPRAY posted:Cellphone Jammer Good idea, but then it also jams my own phone. Xovaan posted:I'd say if you had the money, get a great sounding sub back there again. Subs really fill out music. It was a 12" sub, and it did really fill out the music and let me feel the music as well, but it took up about 1/4 of the trunk. Maybe something small that would give the music some depth? I don't know. I really prefer the trunk space.
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Oct 11, 2009 22:32
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CornHolio posted:synthetic, duh. The stuff made from melted sunbeams and with a 90% photon density. Synthetic is fine, but on older headlights you want to go with conventional.
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Oct 21, 2009 15:54
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Programmed a new keyfob that I got on eBay. Now I can lock/unlock my car from more than 2 feet away. Car computer systems are so goofy. Remove fuse, turn the key to accessory mode, wait for dings, turn key to off then back to accessory, open and shut door, wait for ding.
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Nov 15, 2009 20:53
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I swear, if I had to do all of this because of a crooked seal in the airbox around the heater core.... Work in progress. edit Note the white blend door on the right side. Note that the left side it is not there.  Oh hooray, cracked plastic gear in the blend door motor.  This part is $126 on Rockauto, holy poo poo. Honestly, I want to get this back together today. Let's try gorilla gluing that gear back together. More info http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,41201.0.html edit edit - Gorilla glue did not work. I don't consider it lost time however. I had no way to get to the store to buy quick set epoxy. Now I have epoxy. If this doesnt work, then gently caress it, I'll manually close the blend door so that I have heat. Its winter and that's all I need anyway. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Nov 16, 2009 |
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Nov 16, 2009 19:33
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Hypnolobster posted:
I was able to plug in my HVAC control unit without the dash to test things. Are you able to do that? Anyway, I ran out of daylight. I don't have time to put it back together until tomorrow. I hope I remember where everything goes.
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Nov 17, 2009 13:21
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FogHelmut posted:I swear, if I had to do all of this because of a crooked seal in the airbox around the heater core.... Reassembled this mess. Is it common for cars to have extra wire harnesses that don't connect to anything? I found a couple that never were connected, and had nothing to connect to. I ended up with an extra screw that goes somewhere, but it's all back together so who cares. And I lost the retainer clips that the bolts for the center console go into somewhere down into the body of the car. So the center console is only half bolted in. Regardless, epoxying the gear worked, sorta. The gear held together but the epoxy was too thick for it to work properly. So it only works half way. So what I ended up doing was switching the driver's side and passenger side actuators. Now the driver's side works, but the passenger side doesn't. This isn't a problem, however, because I can access the passenger side actuator simply by removing the glove compartment. Which is a shitload easier than taking the whole interior out of the car to get to the driver's side actuator. And apparently this actuator is in every GM car from the last 12 years that has automatic climate control. So its easy to find despite being a ridiculous $125 for a new one. So at some point I'll hit up a junkyard, grab a new actuator and some of those clips for the center console.
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Nov 18, 2009 20:48
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New front valve cover gasket. Also my tire was losing pressure. A day or two after, it would drop down to around 25 psi. Took it to the tire place. The rim was corroded, they sanded it and sealed it.
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Nov 30, 2009 17:46
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PBCrunch posted:I continued my tint removal project. Removing the tint a square inch at a time from the back window while trying not to gouge the defroster lines really sucks rear end. Does Goo Gone work on tint adhesive, or will it just gently caress everything up?
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Dec 4, 2009 17:48
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PBCrunch posted:No idea. The ammonia-based window cleaner that I bought at the dollar store is doing a pretty good job of weakening the adhesive. It is definitely doing a much better job than the "Tint Adhesive Remover" I bought at O'Reilly's for six bucks. The only thing I'd be worried about with something like Goo Gone is that maybe with cheaper tint the plastic could melt.
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Dec 5, 2009 02:28
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It was the first weekend day in several weeks that it didn't rain or snow. - About 2 years ago I had bought replacement headlight housings off of eBay. They didn't really fit well and had a weird light pattern, but it was better than the clouded old original lights. Last year I had restored the corroded ones, and finally today I put them back in. Gonna sell the other ones on Craigslist or something. - Changed oil. - Wire brushed rusty areas on my sub frame. Cleaned it all off and spray painted it with rustoleum.
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Dec 27, 2009 20:06
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Installed a set of Michelin Radius wiper blades. Not sure how they compare to the RainX Lattitude or Bosch ones, but at $13 each, the price may be worth it compared to the $18-$20 for the other brands. Also I keep forgetting that there is a little button that releases the old blades, and I smashed my finger pretty good pulling the old ones out. Also confirmed that I broke my rear passenger side ABS sensor when an errant hammer swing struck it. So that means a new hub/bearing/ABS sensor all in one unit. Probably going to hold off on this because I'll need an alignment afterward, and I have to do tie rod ends, and might as well do sway bar bushings while I'm at it, and the control arm bushings are on their way out too, so probably rebuild the entire suspension so I only have to get one alignment. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jan 17, 2010 |
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Jan 17, 2010 01:58
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Rubiks Pubes posted:It is. The recall removes the two black spark plug retainer brackets and zip ties the plug wires out of the way, but in most cases they don't replace the gasket under the recall. I took my 98 in a few months ago and they did the gasket. Took about 30 minutes at the dealership. Now I get lots of flyers in the mail telling me to buy a new car.
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Feb 7, 2010 18:58
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Took the day off from work. Went down to the auto body shop to get the head unit out of my sister's totaled car before they hauled it off. Then I replaced my rear wheel bearing hub units. Oh look, the factory shop manual says to just undo 4 bolts and I'm free. Oh look, so does the Haines manual. Oh look, you have to take off the parking brake poo poo before you can do that and then everything is rusted together. Many hours later, I have ABS again. Also I hate parking brakes a lot.
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Mar 19, 2010 23:02
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Got the back windows tinted Fixed the regulator in the driver door. Don't buy the cheapest part you can find because it's likely from China and does not work properly. I bought a reputable part for not much more than the crap I had in there and now my window works again.
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Mar 27, 2010 23:58
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Both outer tie rod ends. New PCV valve, new air filter. Screwed around with my idle air control valve, now my cel is on, oops. Changed my supercharger oil.  175000 mile old supercharger oil. Mmmm.
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Apr 10, 2010 23:32
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Mobius1B7R posted:GP GTP? Yep. Today: Spark plugs And the CEL turned itself off.
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Apr 11, 2010 19:19
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Mobius1B7R posted:How's it been for you? I just got one. What are the problem areas? My dad had bought it used from a dealer with around 30k miles on it, I bought it from him around 130k miles. I really wouldn't say it's had any problems you wouldn't see on any other 12 year old car with 175k miles on it. Just regular wear and tear I guess. After 100k miles and up, things that have been replaced on this were starter, alternator, air conditioner, heater core, thermostat, blower motor, window motor/regulator, struts, wheel bearings, outer tie rod ends. The auto dimming rear view mirror cracked inside and all of the liquid crystal goop leaked out. The automatic trunk pop button hasn't worked for a while, still trying to figure that one out. Normal stuff for an old daily driver.
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Apr 12, 2010 01:31
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The air conditioning on the driver's side just started working out of nowhere, so I performed magic on my car today. I figure the stupid plastic gear in the blend door actuator got all retarded again and I'm probably going to have to take the dashboard off again if I want heat this winter.
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Jul 9, 2010 15:17
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I was driving home and my car died and lost all power in the middle of the road. I didn't get out of the car because that road is busy. I called the police. They wanted to push me off the road, but I had put my car in park and couldn't get it to neutral because I had no electricity. So I convinced the cop to let me open the hood and screw with my battery. So I'm retarded. I had taken my subwoofer out a while ago, but I had left the power cable still in the car. I had detached it from the battery and secured it to a brace with electrical tape. The heat made the tape unwind and lose its sticking ability. The metal end connector of the wire hit the battery terminal and shorted and melted the terminal. I messed with the wire, got enough electricity to get it to neutral, and the cop pushed me into a parking lot. My girlfriend came and got me, we went to Pep Boys and I got a new part for $2. I installed the new terminal in the Dunkin Donuts parking lot because I keep tools in my car. I secured the subwoofer cable with more tape and drove home. Then I secured the cable with zip ties. The end.  
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jul 16, 2010 |
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Jul 16, 2010 01:30
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That reminds me that I need some car pliers. This thing is awesome and compact though.
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Jul 17, 2010 02:45
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The sprinkler system at my condo complex has been spraying shitwater all over my car, leaving a residue that will not come off. I've washed it numerous times, nothing has worked.  Click here for the full 1600x957 image. So I got some scratch remover/polish. I did the windows by hand, now I can see properly. I'll take it to my dad's at some point and get the rest of the car with a buffer.
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Sep 18, 2010 17:59
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