|
Went to Auto Zone and bought everything I could afford for my car since I had a 20% off coupon. The list was pretty drat short, since I'm broke, but it included new spark plugs and R-12 to R134A conversion high and low end valves. Then I flipped it off because I just read the detailing thread and the clear coat on my car has failed on pretty much every body panel.
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2009 04:16
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 14:26 |
|
|
Fixed my A/C, had to convert it over to R-134a, which is kind of a pain in the rear end, considering where my compressor it located. Good news, though, was that it was a compressor that could handle it and I didn't need to get an entirely new one. Now, I get to clean and doll up my windows, since I can actually keep the rolled up (I live in Texas).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2009 00:33
|
|
|
Went through 4 Mr. Clean Magic Erasers and a lot of Woolite scrubbing down every piece of vinyl and plastic in the interior. Went back over everything with the Meguire's stuff (forget what it's called, but it's amazing). Then I went down to the car wash, took out my seats, scrubbed every inch of upholstery with a carpet brush and vacuumed. Went over it a few more times with Resolve heavy duty carpet cleaner, Woolite w/ Oxy Clean and aforementioned carpet brush and vacuumed a few more times. Went back over some spots of plastic/vinyl that I couldn't get to easily with the seats in with the Meguire's. It's not spotless, but it looks 100x better, and I think I lost 5 pounds sweating it out under the Texas sun. vvvvv: I didn't even think to take any before pictures. I also still have a lot of work to do on my seats, but I got to the point where I was about to pass out from the heat. Also, it's an 88 Honda Accord that doesn't look like it's ever been vacuumed out other than a passing vacuuming here and there, so after a certain point, there's only so much you can do without replacing all the upholstery. zamin fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Aug 11, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2009 00:48
|
|
|
Tried to remove the dash so I can get to the heater core, since I think my plenum door is stuck open, causing the A/C to blow hot. Gave up because all my screwdrivers are too long to get to a lot of the screws at the stage I'm at and I really don't feel like going to buy some shorter ones, especially since it's already getting dark out.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 18, 2009 02:42
|
|
|
Went nuts with Stoner's Glass cleaner on my greenhouse and Meguire's Vinyl and Rubber protectant on all of my vinyl and rubber after leaving the windows open a bit all day to let it completely dry out after the rains we had last week. Tomorrow I'll be hunting down and repairing a leak in my interior/weatherstripping which is causing it to stink and giving me a wet rear end after a hard rain. Threw some Gumout in the tank before a fill-up and will be replacing the main fuel filter after this tank is done with. I don't think that filter has ever been changed, if the spark plugs were any indication, so it should really help things out. I'll keep on putting Gumout in there and will probably change both fuel filters again about 1k miles after I change the main. zamin fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Sep 27, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2009 22:37
|
|
|
I ripped out my passenger seat and have it sitting in my living room. Have a few products I want to try and completely restore the upholstery in the car. All the upholstery is in great condition, it's just dirty and stained as gently caress. After reading Paul Boz's thread, I might also switch the interior color to black, but that's more long-term.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2009 03:46
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:I did this today after a terrifying drive home last night where it was pouring rain and I could hardly see the road. The previous owner had put in some lovely Korean bulbs that were shaded dark blue (enough that I couldn't even see the element) and the difference is phenomenal. I still need to do this and re-align them. My driver's side is pointed almost 45 degrees towards the ground and my passenger's is pointed left of center. I have no idea how I past inspection last year with it like that. I just finished changing my main fuel filter, the one just outside of the gas tank. From the pain in the rear end that is was and the look of the gas in the filter (a charcoal gray color), I don't think it's been changed in god knows how long. I'd be surprised if it's been done in the last 5 years. I also SeaFoam'd it the other day, and combined with the filter change, it drives a lot better now. It's noticeably smoother and I would get throttle delays every once in awhile, and so far those are gone.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2009 04:11
|
|
|
Replaced the driveaxles on my 88 Accord. When I bought the car over a year and a half ago, the CVJ boots were torn up, and recently they started clicking very loudly during turns. Between this and the timing belt that I'm going to change fairly soon, it shouldn't need any major maintenance for another 100k miles or so, unless something really hosed up and out of the blue comes up. FYI, popping the steering knuckle ball joint out of the lower control arm of a car that probably hasn't had it removed in over 2 decades is a giant pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2010 00:36
|
|
|
I parked my '88 Accord in my parking lot at work and some dumbass on a cell phone and in a work van backed into my rear driver's side door. I walked out to take a look at it and it turned out to be just a slight dent (on a door already covered in dents) and began calling the local PD to come file a report. He stopped me and offered me a cash settlement of $100, which I gladly took. The dent is barely even noticeable and the body looks like poo poo, anyway, so I'm not at all concerned about it. I'm sure I probably could have gotten a bit more from insurance, but that was a potential huge hassle that I really didn't feel like dealing with. It was funny, because there were already 2 accidents in my parking lot within the last 3 hours, and I had just gotten done bullshitting with my manager that it'd be nice if someone hit my car so I could make a bit of money.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2010 15:19
|
|
|
Grashnak posted:I got my car back from the repairers earlier in the week so I spent a total of about 6 hours over the weekend giving it a proper clean. It almost looks brand new now except for all the rock chips in the paint work. That is loving sexy as hell and that paint looks amazing for its age. My car's only 3 years older and it has clear-coat failure all over the place.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2010 16:22
|
|
|
I drove it to the gym and then got rear-ended on the way home. The guy was driving a company vehicle (F250 with a big-rear end grill guard), so he wants to keep it "off the record". Really screwed up my trunk lid and kinda messed up my bumper, but nothing that's gonna cause any real problems or that I can't fix myself. I'm about to take it in for an estimate and then get a check for that amount.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2010 20:23
|
|
|
Ordered a new and bigger carb for my '88 Accord LX. Been having gasket issues, choke issues, vacuum issues, etc, so I figure if I'm going to spend all this time and money fixing a lovely carb that's old enough to drink, I might as well use that time and money and get some more power and a lot more reliability. Upgrading to the Weber 32/36 DGEV from the OEM Keihin ~22/~30. Can't wait for it to get here so I can install it and play around with it.  This is my first "upgrade" on the car (well, any car). I'm hoping it doesn't get addicting, but I'm sure it will.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2010 23:18
|
|
|
zamin posted:Ordered a new and bigger carb for my '88 Accord LX. Been having gasket issues, choke issues, vacuum issues, etc, so I figure if I'm going to spend all this time and money fixing a lovely carb that's old enough to drink, I might as well use that time and money and get some more power and a lot more reliability. Upgrading to the Weber 32/36 DGEV from the OEM Keihin ~22/~30. Can't wait for it to get here so I can install it and play around with it. Finally got the time to install it, and goddamn is this thing a lot better than the stock one. I've still gotta properly tune it and make some adjustments to my throttle linkage, but it got dark and I have to work in the morning. I also left part of my old carb in there because the top hat's connected to a coolant line that I have no way to plug until tomorrow. Once I get the time, I can now remove about 20 pounds of poo poo from inside the engine bay.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2010 03:37
|
|
|
Drove it to work today to find out that I either screwed up the gasket job between my intake manifold and carb adapter plate or I just didn't seal the coolant hole well enough and it's leaking a decent amount (enough to where I can smell it and see it burning off after driving 2 or so miles). So now I get to take the carb off and try it again, this time without having to rush it because I've got tomorrow off. The good thing about this is that I can see the color of it is almost orange. I'm guessing it's my car's way of telling me that it desperately wants a coolant flush.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2010 23:17
|
|
|
zamin posted:Drove it to work today to find out that I either screwed up the gasket job between my intake manifold and carb adapter plate or I just didn't seal the coolant hole well enough and it's leaking a decent amount (enough to where I can smell it and see it burning off after driving 2 or so miles). So now I get to take the carb off and try it again, this time without having to rush it because I've got tomorrow off. After removing a ton of crap that my car didn't need, and then taking off my carb, found out my gasket job and sealing job were both good. Could have came from a lot of other places, don't know where, but everything is sealed up and just took it for a ~10 mile test drive and there are no leaks anywhere. The barrels sound kind of asthmatic when I give it throttle, like it's running too lean, but that's more than likely a problem in tuning and something I can deal with. I've got maybe 20-25lbs of junk now sitting in my back seat waiting to be thrown away. It's amazing how much space there actually is in the engine bay once you get rid of all of the vacuum lines. The only thing I have to do now is toy around with my throttle linkage since the pedal's a bit loose and I'm not getting the kind of response I want, delete the charcoal canister by routing the line into my air cleaner, and figure out what in the hell I'm going to do with the tube coming off my exhaust manifold that used to be for my TAC valve on the old airbox.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2010 03:13
|
|
|
I started the process of stripping away all of the oxidation in the paint of my 88 Accord. After about 3 hours with about a quarter bottle of rubbing compound and a lot of pads, I managed to make the about a fifth of my hood look almost factory fresh. The car might actually look pretty drat good with another 60 or so man-hours. I think I need to invest in an orbital because my hands loving hurt. At least I know what's possible with my paint. Now the dents on the other hand...
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2010 23:09
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:I am very interested in this. Please post pictures, and more updates once you get your hands on an orbital. This is what I've accomplished so far:   Pretend that it looked this this before:  Excuse the lovely cellphone pics. The area that's been restored actually has a really good mirror finish and is incredibly smooth, and it even has those metallic flakes like the rest of the paint job. The oxidation on the side of the ridge that I've been working on is pretty hazy and looks like it's about to come right out, so that part will be easy. As for rust, it's lived its entire life in Central Texas, so there is very little rust. There's a handful of spots on the hood that are maybe .5mm x .5mm or smaller, so I'm not worried about those. The doors have a couple spots that are slightly bigger and my rocker panels are pretty terrible, but other than that, it's mostly just dents and dings that I need to worry about popping. After I get this half of the hood finished, I'm going to clay and wax it and all that jazz for a good side-by-side photo.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2010 15:56
|
|
|
Coasterphreak posted:So you're telling me that I've been driving around with lovely looking paint on my accord for no good reason? I just need rubbing compound? And a LOT of elbow grease. Trust me when I say that unless you have an orbital/rotary, this is gonna be a long process.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2010 16:00
|
|
|
Finally got around to doing a coolant system flush using Prestone's Super Radiator Cleaner. Before I even got started, I figured I would need to remove the plastic shielding under my engine. It was only after I got it all down that I realized that I didn't need to take it off to get to my radiator drain petcock.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2010 02:31
|
|
|
Lum posted:Now if anyone knows the normal idle oil pressure for an RB20DET engine, please let me know as it seems a bit on the low side at around 20 psi. Just looking around because I'm bored, the R32 manual says it should be "around 1 kg/cm2" for idle, which would be about 15psi.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2010 05:03
|
|
|
Lum posted:I found that too, but it seems awfully low. My Accord's idle pressure is supposed to be 14psi, but it's also a 2L 4cyl, so I don't know if that makes a difference. As for what I did today, spent the last 5 hours working on my paint. The first 4 were with the rubbing compound on my hood, and made a lot of progress. Then I took the rubbing compound in a kind of half-rear end way to the driver's fender and the driver's door. Managed to knock out a decent amount of oxidation on those two panels and severely reduced how bad a couple of scratches on my door were. After that, washed, clayed, washed and then stuck two coats of wax on those panels, mostly to protect the paint until I can get another shot at it. It doesn't look amazing or showroom fresh (yet), but it looks about a million times better than what it was before and the rest of the car. I've got a friend that's gonna let me borrow his orbital and rotary buffer, so once I get my hands on those, I can probably finish the rest of the car in a couple weeks, schedule permitting.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2010 22:10
|
|
|
Finally got around to replacing the belt on the AC compressor of my 88 Accord. Jesus gently caress, that's more of a pain in the rear end than it has any right to be. Jack it up, remove front-drivers tire and then underpinning to get belt access, unbolt PS pump and move it out of the way, undo 4 bolts, 2 of which are in ridiculous locations that require inching them out, then undo the tension to get the belt off/on. The most fun part? Putting tension on the belt. There's a small 10mm headed nut-looking "thingy" attached to the tension bolt. However, you can't get access to it except by bending a hand incredibly uncomfortably around a cross-beam of the subframe to get access to it. I'd rather not take that off and screw up my alignment to get a ratchet to the tensioner. Ya, maybe I could have hit it with a tiny box wrench, but I don't own any and gently caress putting my car back together to go buy one on the off chance that it would have fit in that tiny space. Good news, though, is that I now have a much firmer grasp of just how much time it's going to take to do my timing belt, and can plan it out accordingly.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2010 01:31
|
|
|
Spent about an hour with a file on the throttle plate from my OEM Keihin carb so it would fit on the throttle shaft on my Weber 32/26. The angle of connection, pivot radius and overall stability with the throttle plate that came with the Weber absolutely sucked. I've been meaning to do this for awhile, but recently I've been having the issue of the throttle cable becoming disconnected at anything more just under half-WOT throttle with the Weber plate, so that prompted me into action. Runs a lot better, now, and I've got that piece of mind back that my throttle cable will actually stay connected regardless of throttle input. Only thing left to do on that is mount the return spring properly, bore out a hole in the cable mounting bracket to get a straighter angle and then retune it, which will probably take all of about an hour or so. Up next, adjust my clutch pedal since I found out it's a mechanical clutch instead of hydraulic like I thought, install a new stereo so I can actually listen to the radio in the car ($400 stereo system (deck with iPod connectivity and speakers for my front doors and rear deck) for $200 because of Black Friday week), timing belt/water pump and then full tune-up before my Christmas drive from Texas to Indiana at the end of next month. December's gonna be a busy car month for me. Money permitting, I might even get an alignment. zamin fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Nov 24, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2010 07:07
|
|
|
VolumeOverTalent posted:Today, I replaced the fairly plain and boring stock dash panel on my Focus... That looks a hell of a lot nicer than the gray. Took mine to get it inspected, and it passed! Huge load off of my mind, considering when I replaced my carb, I ripped out about 20 lbs of emission control, have my EGR and A/S valve capped off, and the pipe from the exhaust that used to go to the TAC and the lines from the charcoal canister are all pointed under the engine instead of actually being hooked into anything. I kinda thought they'd take one look under the hood, go  and just reject it.And this is an emissions county.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2010 19:40
|
|
|
Installed a new head unit and front/back speakers in my '88 Accord. The old stereo was completely stock and HU only had a tape deck, which didn't work, and basically all the speakers had disintegrated, so most of the time replacing the speakers was spent cleaning up pieces of the cones off my floor and the ground. Now, I can actually listen to music in my car without using my headphones and iPod. My main reason for the swap was because my iPod doesn't have enough battery left to make the entire drive from Texas to Indiana over Christmas, so having a HU with a USB input is great.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2010 01:32
|
|
|
evilnissan posted:I love the 80's. Flip up headlights, slanted noses and giant greenhouses. What's not to love?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2010 03:25
|
|
|
Taught myself how to solder and use heatshrink tubing on the wiring harness adapter and the wiring harness on my headunit. Wasn't anywhere near as difficult or time consuming as I thought it would be, and it looks about a billion times nicer than the rush job I did when I first put it in (and probably about a million times safer and reliable). Twisted it up a few times and threw on some zip-ties and it looks great.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2010 23:16
|
|
|
Got started on the timing belt replacement on my 88 Accord. Took me awhile to find the timing marks before starting everything, and once I got that down, I ran into another problem. The Haynes manual says to remove the tensioner seal. I look at the diagram, not the location of the water pump and then look at my car. The only thing sticking out in that same location has to be the tensioner seal. Well, yes, and no. Turns out, my tensioner seal is AWOL, lost somewhere in the last 22 years of its life. What I spent the last 2 hours trying to remove is the tensioner bolt, which I'm now pretty drat sure just flat out doesn't come out.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 22, 2010 00:50
|
|
|
Not today, but yesterday. Finally managed to get my timing belt changed. Took it to my uncle's huge-rear end garage and, armed with a few more sets of hands and a couple 1/2" impact extensions, we got her done. It was actually a lot more straightforward and simple than I thought it would be, just time consuming. From beginning to end, it only took us just under 5 hours, and that's including losing probably a half-hour trying to get the crank pulley off before I remembered that I had a pitman puller buried in my trunk, losing a half-hour trying to find the Woodruff key after I dropped it (it fell inside the lower timing cover) and maybe another half-hour in smoke breaks. I'm pretty sure I could do this job again in about 3 hours next time I need to do it. Kinda frightening taking my old timing belt off. You could see a bit of breaking between the teeth, and if you look close enough, you can see "Honda Manufacturing, Made in Japan" on the belt. I'm pretty sure this was the original timing belt being changed for the first time, 22 years and 150k miles later. Also my old tensioner pulley had so much wobble and grime in it that it probably would have seized up long before the belt went. zamin fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Dec 27, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2010 18:35
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 14:26 |
|
|
Sponge! posted:Your new belt should say that too, if it doesn't plan on changing it between 50-60k to be safe. I plan on changing the belts every 50-60k from here on out, especially now that I know exactly what to do and how simple it really is. With how much I drive, that will put my next belt interval at sometime in 2016. And ya, I did the water pump, too. Kinda dumb not to when after you get the lower timing cover off, you undo 3 bolts and just put the new one on. My coolant is still disgusting. Even after using one of those "leave in for 8 hours of operation" flushes and spending 2 hours and 30 gal of water trying to flush it out a few months back.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2010 19:19
|
|
