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I drove it to a dealership where I put my signature on paperwork to purchase something to replace it. Nothing unusual but it is pretty nice. Expect a thread.
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May 30, 2009 13:25
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This is on the VW camper. Did a halfassed sanding job on the small rust holes I filled with some kind of house gap filler. I know, I know. But it's just a temporary measure to get it through a roadworthy. I also painted the area with white epoxy enamel. It'll do for now. Tried to start on the pushrod tube O rings, but realised I really need to put it up on ramps first. Normally I'd remove the heaterboxes too, but then I'd need to get new exhaust gaskets. Not going to proceed right now anyway because I need to get some degreaser. I have a lot of mud / oil to clean off. Ferremit has nothing on how dirty the camper was after doing some engine testing to find a fault. But I guess most people don't do it in axle deep mud either. Figured I'd have some fun while I was doing it. That mud was from late last year. Still finding more of it clogging everything up.
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May 31, 2009 02:34
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Today, I looked out over the wet yard and contemplated. While staring at the VW on ramps with no radiator in it, thinking about how I can remedy a ridiculous interference issue. Yesterday I pulled said radiator off and dumped the water all over the ground. It just had water because pulling the radiator was my plan anyway. I also removed my recent-ish-ly installed heater duct with a big screwdriver and a hacksaw.
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Dec 18, 2010 22:41
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Tried and failed to install a radiator. Why is nothing ever easy? At this rate it'll probably end up roo bar mounted.
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Dec 21, 2010 01:47
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Looked at it in disdain. yesterday I continued on with the radiator fitment saga. One of the frame rails is bent and I can't proceed until I do something about it. Either stilsons or a scissor jack and crowbar should do it. I also ordered a weber carburettor adapter yesterday. So it will be a factory auto panelvan VW camper conversion with an early manual transmission transplant powered by a Subaru with a Ford carburettor, various mitsubishi bits and truck instrumentation. Just call me Dr. Frankenstein.
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Dec 23, 2010 00:20
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I sort of finished making my ACVW into a wasserboxer. The radiator is finally mounted. It's down a thermo fan, the cowling isn't on it yet, nor is the gap around the rad properly sealed, one of the thermo fan mounts fell off and one of the rad hoses leak where the thermo bulb is but it's finally there, screwed and bolted in. It took hours. So loving sore.
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Feb 6, 2011 08:16
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Parthenogenocide posted:I bought my ride today. very nice. Swap you? You like bleeding, arc burn and throwing away money right?
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Feb 6, 2011 12:53
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I replaced the screws holding the windshield mesh stone guard bracket on to the A pillars. I used tek screws. Nice flat heads and infinitessimally larger diameter than the soft as butter lovely screws that were in there so it screwed in tight.
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Feb 13, 2011 05:27
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Perhaps not today but in pieces during the week I cleaned all the poo poo out of my VW. It had accumulated crap from two house moves, lots of work and an engine swap. The only place I could get in was the drivers seat because the rest of it was full! I actually laid down on the bed for the first time in a couple of years yesterday. That was the feeling of progress!
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Feb 14, 2011 00:43
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My VW... I tried to start it and found it was out of fuel. Weird. Put some in, started it and drove it back and forth in the small space that I could, slamming on the brakes, and doing similar with the hand brake just to keep everything moving.
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Nov 1, 2011 06:21
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Moved the VW and put it on the charger. Aimlessly poked at the wiring. Did a bit more work on removing the mower holder thing from the front of the trailer. Gave up the day before yesterday after getting burnt all over by flying metal. Today no grinding. I realised that I should just be able to snap the front off because all that is holding it is the crumbled remains of the crossmember which I need to remove the mower bit to get to. Seems to be working so far but my son is having a nap so SShhhh...
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Nov 6, 2011 05:39
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Geirskogul posted:Three feet of nylon rope. Push it into the cylinder through the spark plug hole before you do any head work. I also do the same thing when I have to work on my motorcycle's clutch to keep the engine from turning over while I undo the bigass bolt. I agree. I also have a spark plug hole air compressor attachment but have never used it. I intend on misusing it one day on the Tecumseh mower for fun. Uh anyway it came with an in head valve spring tool. So, today, I checked 3/4 of the spark plugs on the VW. After the first three and the position of the 4th I concluded I had seen all I needed too. There was fuel-stinky with loose twiddly bit on top (explains why it may not have been firing), wet but not smelling of anything (Oh no coolant probably), and wet with amber oil and smelling of oil too (How the hell is that possible on an EA81? The plug is up the top and the oil is down the bottom!). The fourth plug is probably radioactive or something. I went hunting for those push in gauge light holders. Was looking for the two terminal plastic type so I can use the damned earth modulating PWM controller for the instruments. I also thought about how to install a nice internal shunt VDO ammeter I just got for $5.
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Nov 15, 2011 13:00
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I used the VW to squash the ground down around where I dug out a stump. I also did a repair on its sliding door and found a tap for the jerrycan. I also adapted a couple of flyscreen vent things for a truck to fit on the Fairlane. 
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Dec 7, 2011 21:26
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Bought a small ammo box for a basic toolbox for the car. Sometimes I don't want to carry much and don't like them kicking around loose. Also have a mortar shell box on lay-by because it's nice and big and has a good rubber seal still.
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Mar 16, 2012 04:53
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Well, it was yesterday, and I didn't exactly do anything to it, but I got something for it. It still has a good seal so I was considering external mounting somewhere. I don't know. I also had another go at getting an oil pressure sender (not idiot light switch). Sonofabitch will cost me $70+. Does anyone have access to them cheaper and with specific resistance ranges?
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Mar 20, 2012 23:38
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What I did today. I dug out the dented, lovely looking oil pressure sender I pulled form the magna ages ago, connected it to the pressure gauge I have, applied power and air with the compressor. It actually seems roughly right considering I was getting about 250kpa on the gauge with the airgun blowing into the end of a hose with the sender on the other side. When I deadheaded it, it just launched the sender. Letting some air bleed from the airgun side seemed to prevent it. Given the compressor gives about 120PSI I think that's about right. Close enough for me anyway. Now I just need a way to attach the sender. I know exactly what I need but I won't be near the VDO shop or Supercrap until May probably. Damnit. edit... wait. That math is totally wrong. poo poo. nm.
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Mar 21, 2012 03:08
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Motronic posted:
Mm. mm. The AIest barbecue. What I did today was... nothing. Cleaned out the VW partially yesterday and found some trapped standing water and mould. Nothing important thankfully. Just a bit of laminated wood I left on the floor. but still not good.
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Mar 26, 2012 02:18
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Matlock posted:After the third such time of nearly breaking the drat housing to get the air filter back into the Vibe, I got a K&N Typhoon short ram. Wish I had a reason to do something like that. Repairing the airbox every time there is a major explosion in the intake is kind of tedious. LPG. Good when it's good, but when it misbehaves it's a bitch.
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Mar 26, 2012 13:06
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I wish I could get tyres that cheap. the ones on the Fairlane are getting down to the wear markers. I don't want to be looking at $250+ each again for the cheapest I can get that hold air again  gently caress Ford and their dumbass tyre sizes. And their lovely suspension design that prevents normal sizes even marginally larger than stock from fitting. Goddamn upper balljoint is <1" above the top of the tyre. WTF seriously.What I did was check the coolant. Saw all the congealed leaks from every possible place, the worn out, hard to find and expensive serpentine belt and tensioner, the sloppy NLA steering rack U joint and closed the bonnet, pretending it doesn't exist. Also gently caress rare cars.
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Mar 28, 2012 01:03
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some texas redneck posted:Discovered I left the interior light on the last time I drove it. That's a mighty fine battery you have there. I've struggled to start many things that had an interior light left on overnight. To drat easy to do on the Fairlane because it has a couple of lights above the back doors with an auto and manual on setting. The switch is the light cover. it works like a giant, super easy to move toggle. Today, nothing. Not even 7am. Probably more cleanup. So much stuff dumped in there.
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Mar 28, 2012 20:58
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Splizwarf posted:Wonder if it would be a problem ever again if the light bulb was replaced with an LED? I hate LEDS normally, but interior lighting is usually so crappy anyway that that might not matter. LEDs do help a lot. I haven't substituted in this car yet because the light they give out is kind of horrible and reminds me of a hospital at night. Previous cars I did because I've had doors left cracked or intermittent shorts develop in the door switches causing the battery to discharge. It barely makes a dent in the battery if it's left on for a day with the LED based lights.
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Mar 28, 2012 22:19
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I pulled the interior light / map light out of the Magna a while back with the intent of mounting it in the VW. A couple of weeks ago I was at the Magna again stripping more bits out when I looked up and saw the map lights. It got an audible "huh?" from me. Admittedly it had been maybe four years since it was complete and drivable. Apparently I forgot that it had map lights near the rear view mirror and another set on the dome light. It was a loving awesome car. Shame about the motor Now it's just fodder for the VW and Ford.
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Mar 29, 2012 00:12
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some texas redneck posted:A lot of USDM GM's actually put the map lights on the back/bottom of the rearview mirror, with switches immediately under the mirror itself. I never paid too much attention to where the lights are in the Fairlane. I made a point of looking last night and was reminded why I never use the map lights. the dome / map light is so far back that it's almost over the bottom of the back seat. Remember the Fairlane is the LWB variant of the Falcon. So to use it I have to sort of bend sideways and twist around backwards to reach the light. It has a sunroof so the position sort of makes sense but there was enough space up front where they put the sunroof switch to put a couple of map lights to the sides. WTF Ford?
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Mar 29, 2012 23:13
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Abused it. The VW that is. used it as a tractor again. This time to play caravan tetris using a tiedown strap tied on to one of the roo bar uprights and one of the rear uprights on the caravan. How it didn't snap I don't know. It was a 500kg strap but I was shifting a ~1300kg caravan which hadn't moved for ages and on really soft ground. I still haven't finished the cooling system but it never hot 100*C even lugging it at idle. The thermo fan comes on about 2* above thermostat full open so I;m happy with that. once I stop the direct path for hot air to be recirculated through the rad the fan should be needed even less. I really would like a winch. The frequency which I abuse the roo bar and tiedown straps to drag things is way too high.
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Apr 1, 2012 13:37
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I spent the best part of two days assembling this: That open side bit goes all the way across. We've had it for three or so years and I've never assembled the annex, nor had any idea how it looked or if it were complete. There are a ridiculous amount of parts, some definitely after market. I have never seen an annex with a peaked roofline before. That made it extra interesting. Now I have to pull it all apart in the next few hours to get the trailer out. Or cut down the front fence
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Apr 14, 2012 22:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Installed a new lighting harness that uses relays and heavier gauge wire to provide for a higher wattage headlight bulb. It'll come in handy for TSDs as well as night driving, as the stock H4s would get drowned out in streetlights easily. I have to do that with the VW. 37? year old wire over 5m long doesn't cut it any more. Especially with 55/100 bulbs. Having so much trouble finding non-ricey looking 0 gauge wire. It all has this fake carbon fibre transparent insulation and costs heaps. I wouldn't trust that poo poo. Perhaps welder wire is the way to go.
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Apr 14, 2012 23:29
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some texas redneck posted:If you just need headlight wire, 0 is way, way overkill. 12 would be more appropriate, 10 if it's a long stretch. Or does it run the full power for the starter through the ignition switch? Only full power for the solenoid. BUT the power for all the lights, engine, stereo, fans etc. goes by one wire. And for the engine and other things of course it's going double the length of the vehicle which accounting for ups and downs, side to side as well it'd probably be a 12 meter run of cable in some spots. Voltage drop is really bad, especially when it's loaded. besides that if I ever pick up a winch, the thick wire will be a godsend.
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Apr 15, 2012 01:32
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Nothing actually done to it, but I did test fit the P clips for the coolant hoses on the VW, trying to find a good place to put them. I did. I just want to do it without drilling any more holes. Might need a couple more P clips before I feel happy with it all though. When I do this the hoses will no longer rest on the trailing arms. Yay! I still need to secure the heater hoses somehow though as they keep falling on to one of the half shafts. Lucky I can't drive it anywhere. Another thing I sort of did was gain a sense of relief over doing the engine swap. On TheSamba I saw someone strip down a heater box to remove melted aluminium fins. They also removed the asbestos matting. What? Oh poo poo so not only do the heater boxes use their exhaust to air heat exchange, they used asbestos matting in there, in an area which has air being blown into the cabin to increase insulation. Thanks for that VW. I know you hate people, but loving hell. Seriously?
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Apr 18, 2012 00:37
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Regnevelc posted:Not my ride, but I installed a VHF radio system into three Humvees today. That was fun and a bit different than my normal everyday job. VHF radio?
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Apr 19, 2012 02:09
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Regnevelc posted:Yeah. SINCGARS. Oh I see. Thanks for showing me that. Today I did nothing directly for anything, but I did get some unused Vulcoflex hoses at a garage sale. Awesome find for me because nobody stocks the bloody things. I had to ignore so much other amazing stuff at garage sales which would have served me well because of severe budgetary constraints, but I'm happy with the bits and pieces I found. For me, a brushcutter, the hoses and another toolbox. kind of AI all round for me 
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Apr 21, 2012 06:33
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I didn't do anything because it's Sunday morning and it was raining last night. WHY DO YOU KEEP ASKING ME? Depending on how much the ground dries out I might fit the other two P clips for holding up the coolant hoses on the VW. I'd really like a couple of those ones that take two smaller hoses for the heater hoses but don't know what they are called. Even though it's definitely not prudent from a financial point of view I'd really like to get the VW registered. It would also afford me the luxury of extended downtime on the Fairlane so I can pull apart its cooling system etc. and repair / replace things at my own pace. There is caked on fluoro green all over the engine. It's kind of scary. What's more scary is the brown gunk I keep cleaning off the coolant tank cap and out of the tank where I can reach with a paper towel. It's not gooey or oily. I think it may be a ferrous paste. All I know is it's brown and there's lot of it.
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Apr 22, 2012 00:10
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I have been very slowly installing four P clips to hold the coolant hoses up on the VW. Got #3 done yesterday. Managed to launch a bolt and washer into the only hole in the enclosed part of the frame. Had to get more bolts and washers to do #4, which I may do today. It's a prick of a job because I'm using fender washers and bolts through structural holes to support the hoses. Didn't want to do any drilling. It's all pretty pointless because I got the needed flexible hoses from a garage sale last weekend so I could just route the hoses above the rear torsion beam neatly out of the way (except for the heater hoses which I put in a bad place. gently caress. And the fuel pump too. Double gently caress.). I'm just desperate to get it roadworthy now because issues are creeping up on the Fairlane which require more than a few hours of downtime, and travelling in the interim to fix. Only thing is even if I get the VW roadworthy I'll need to get a loan or something to afford registration. Costs more than the bloody motor I put in it.
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Apr 25, 2012 01:08
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Black88GTA posted:Is there any way you could use one of those magnet-on-a-flexible-stick type tools to fish that bolt + washer out of the frame? Getting a phantom loud rattle everytime I hit a bump would drive me completely insane (I know it's an old VW, but still). No, unfortunately. I thought of that. It's in a horrible position. It's a bit hard to describe properly. The basics are this. The hole that I lost the bits through is on the inner side of the frame. right behind it is a structural member which comes off the frame diagonally, going forwards so there is only a small gap. The wiring loom also passes over the front of this hole. The frame at and in front of this hole slopes downwards. At its lowest point the torsion tube for the suspension passes through it. So th ebolt and washer would have gone through the hole and tumbled down to end up between the frame and the torsion tube in an otherwise enclosed section of frame, besides a small drain hole at the bottom of course which is maybe 6mm dia at most.
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Apr 25, 2012 01:23
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Got this for the VW. No idea how to mount / suspend it though. And this to prevent me from doing stupid things with tie down straps.  Been having amazing luck with markets and garage sales recently.
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Apr 28, 2012 05:06
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I mad another poor quality template for the plate I need to make for the cooling system on the VW. I really wish I had a chunk of flat ABS to cut a final out of. But I dont and will have to use sheetmetal and some supporting stuff to make it work. All I want to do is prevent the cold air escaping before it goes through the radiator, and stop the hot air being drawn back through.
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Apr 29, 2012 04:22
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I made the piece of metal to block the escaping radiator air from the templates, tweaked and tweaked again. It's almost usable. My main issue is how to take advantage of those lovely pre-existing holes in the rear crossmember to hold the back of the metal in place. How do you use unthreaded holes in ~1mm steel that you can't really access the back of? I'm thinking masonry plugs or those push in rubber bits for door card clips. I might reinforce the front with some thick strap steel I have so it sits better against the radiator. Blocking this gap has been pissing me off for over a year. I know I'll figure it out.
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Apr 29, 2012 06:48
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This. now it has the right* fuel fittings and a way of mounting it I just need to figure out where. * I don't remember if my system is still 1/4" or if I went up a size. I'll have to check.
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Apr 30, 2012 02:49
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Won a part on eBay for $0.99 and I'm getting the feeling the seller is lovely about it and I'll get raped on postage.
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May 2, 2012 11:59
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Splizwarf posted:What did you buy on eBay that didn't have listed postage (and wasn't freight)? It's a ..er... thing. Damned if I know what the correct name for it is. It's a part of the heating system on a T2 VW. here's a photo I lifted from the auction. I plopped it in imgur.  It goes here:  You can see it in the middle of the front of mine. I don't want to cut mine up and these things don't come up for sale very often because they aren't exactly a wear part. The seller had reasonable starting prices on their other stuff, so I don't know what gives. When the auction was going I asked about postage and they took a rough stab at how much they thought it would cost ($20-$30 which sounds about right to me). Anyway if this seller isn't a prick about it I'll have another one of those things to possibly butcher to add a blower and heater core. If you have a better idea on how to get heat up front I'd love to know. Really, I would. I'm kind of stumped.
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May 2, 2012 13:56
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 18:46 |
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davebo posted:I actually have one myself, but it wasn't in my car and my dad was right there. I think in the future I'll just check to make sure the spare has air more than once every 5 years. Are they those little black rattly things? I have one of them. Well most of it. It lost a chunk out of its bottom when it was ejected from the boot (trunk) of the car along with everything else in a rollover in '98 or thereabouts. It's fallen apart internally a few times but it was easy to put back together. The last time I used it was probably 6 or so years ago when I got a proper compressor. My proper compressor hasn't been used in a couple of years either because I have another one made from truck parts and an electric motor which I use for tyres. Just haven't really needed my air tools much for a while. Well, I do need to use my die grinder with a cutoff wheel but they don't seem to exist in Australia.
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May 2, 2012 21:59
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