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 Got rid of a leaking hub last night that I've been putting off for a few months. Jacked up the Hummer and knocked off the idler arm, and removed the steering arm/CTIS shield from the geared hub.  It's a portal axle gearbox, so this the shield for the bottom part where the airline goes in, there's 2 seals. A spindle seal to keep the tire air pressure separate from the gear oil, and using gasketmaker, a gasket around the mating surface of the shield. Unfortunately for me there was hardly any around the surface. I took the ring clip out and couldn't knock out the spindle seal. Figured I wasn't using a big enough hammer so I pulled out ye ole 15 lb mallet. It came out with one small tap.  Starting the clean up, you can see where the spindle CTI seal did it's job. The bit with surface rust was air, then you have the seal which keeps the gear oil from working its way into the air compressor system. This is why CTI and beach air isn't a good combination     New seal and gasket, I used to be a bit timid with the gasketmaker, but after watching a few factory AM general techs working on suspension parts at a few workshops, they just pile it on the geared hubs, you don't want to break it down again with another leak. (You can see where the leak was at the lower ball joint area which is full of gear oil, grease and dirt)  About to use a torque wrench to rebolt everything back together. Once tight, I tossed some silicon pipe sealant on the airline threads and wrenched it back. No more air/oil leaks on the wheel! Now to head to the recycling center and drop off all my used oil and gear lube. Also did a oil/fuel filter service. Had to switch grease in the middle of lubrication and now my grease gun won't prime 
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 19, 2009 |
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Jul 19, 2009 19:48
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Baby Hitler posted:Wait, someone is actually stupid enough to use wire nuts on a car? Jesus. Last time I saw something like that was a truck with a siren/PA system on it. It was wired directly with speaker wire and wire nuts with no relays. Nothing like a few amps going through a dashboard switch. 
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Jul 19, 2009 19:58
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I was going to install a New Old stock exhaust system. The old one was fine, until I bent the central undercarriage protection / skid guard which pressed up against the exhaust and pulled out a bolt. Turns out that when the previous owner replaced the CAT with a test pipe, he tossed 3 of the 5 brackets that holds the system in place. And the heat shield where the muffler bolts onto. Fortunately I have most of the parts from another truck so I should be ok.
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Jul 27, 2009 21:18
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Picked up a new heavy duty brushguard from a local fire department and new upper control arms which are modified to accept 2 grease fittings per bushing. Just need to get new bushings installed and repaint the control arms [they're orange now ]
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Aug 9, 2009 18:05
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Had a coolant leak, topped up the coolant and noticed I had an air lock on start [chug chug chug noise for a few seconds].. couldn't get the system to burp so I used a pressure tester to pressurize everything a few times and released air with the bleeder screws. Finally got all the air out of the system. Found the leak on a hoseclamp on the water pump intake hose, so out comes all the hose clamps and in goes all the spring tensioned t-bolt hose clmaps.
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Sep 6, 2009 07:36
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Found more of the magical PO's wiring fixes on my truck. On a HMMWV/Hood there's 2 little compartments molded into the fiberglass hood to keep dirt and mud out of the wiring for the headlights, markers and signal lights. It's closed off by 2 metal shields. I'm trying to track down a small grounding problem with my exterior lighting system, since it's an aluminum body vehicle, all the ground points are linked at certain points, such as the lights. I popped open the shields and took a look at the wiring harneses.. and what do I see? Every. Single. loving. Wire. Cut and spliced.... Badly. On the phone now with AM General to order a new harness.. $140  I'm not touching that rats nest of wiring.
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Oct 20, 2009 19:36
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Oh what didn't I do. On the upshot, I can now drop ship my h1 in little boxes with the exception of the body tub   I keep telling myself it'll all go back together like a big lego technic set. Except AM Generals Factory documentation is rear end, I plugged in all new chassis bolts from Mc Master Carr, 100 lbs worth of MIL spec CAD plated hardware with hard washers and rated locknuts, and all the quantities were botched up in the manual.  Why yes! #17, a 1/2" 1" bolt is totally usable for holding on a cross member bracket through a box frame onto a control arm pocket on the other side. (It's actually a 3/4" 4 1/2 " long bolt) Its time to type up a project thread.
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Nov 15, 2009 18:23
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FogHelmut posted:
It seems to be a completely random system for programming fobs on vehicles and model years [ie. one year will use a motorola ECU, the other year, something else]. On my 98 Hummer I have to short a spade connector [usually against the ground on the nearby cigar lighter] while the key is set to accessory. Then wait for my lights to blink 4 times then I have 30 seconds to jam the buttons on the remotes I want to sync up. Then wait 30 seconds or re short the spade connector again to turn off program mode. Since the OEM fobs were so very lovely, and I was replacing them almost twice a year, I wired up an arcade plunger button with a terminal connector on one end and a alligator clip on another to make the process go a bit faster. A few years later they actually spared 50 cents and wired up a switch to the receiver so you can just go PUSH BUTTAN and program. Pulling codes from WABCO [Land rovers, some hummers, misc vans and trucks] ABS modules is a pain in the rear end. Short a few pins, and read patterns of flashing lights. I guess it's too much to have everything talk to the OBD ports, but I guess it's a compatibility nightmare to try to get all the vendors to agree to a standard. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Nov 15, 2009 |
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Nov 15, 2009 21:03
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Black88GTA posted:Not home yet, because it has a brake fluid leak somewhere, and apparently AAA won't tow cars that aren't registered or insured. Why tell them that? I had AAA flat bed non operational trucks with big parts missing [I had half a humvee with no lights and no plates towed from an auto mall to my work]. Guy didn't ask any questions, my story was it was going from one shop to another shop on the other side of town to be completed. I guess being at a private residence to another private residence could be an issue. Try asking for a flat bed truck next time [and tip the guy like $20 for the trouble] saying something is seized and you need to really get it back home to your Uncle or something who's a mechanic. /edit On the subject, I'm sticking the interior back into my H1 tomorrow... and some of the really cheap plastic cracked while it was in storage because I wasn't careful enough packing it away God drat interiors, the hardest to find and the most expensive bits of a car.
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Jan 24, 2010 11:56
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Black88GTA posted:Swell guy though, he told me that it couldn't be towed under AAA, but he'd do it if I paid normally for it. "Normally this tow would run $536 plus tolls, but I'll give ya a break and do it for only $400 Yeah, I figure he was going on a technicality. AAA tows are done via fixed rate contract, so the drivers/towing companies make less on AAA tows than someone who is not a member, or a vehicle that doesn't meet AAA requirements. In which case if he refused the tow, I hope he didn't get you to sign anything, I've seen triple A tow drivers show up, refuse the tow then get the customer to sign a form, where they still make the flat rate fee but without the tow.
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Jan 24, 2010 22:48
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Picked up my H1 after it being away at the paint shop for a while. Had a dealer swap out a brake line and bleed/refill with fresh DOT-5. Got a good deal on that.. but.. They quoted me on an alignment and misc service items..... $890 for an alignment and $400 to swap the fuel and air filter ( I didn't ask for service items, just brakes and alignment)   Click here for the full 600x800 image. $60 and 10 minutes later the 2 filters are done. I'm getting the alignment done tomorrow for $75-100 and then back putting the interior in and installing weatherstripping. $890 for an alignment... sheesh, the suspension was all redone with new control arms, bushings and all brand new frame bolts. What the christ. And the service manager wonders why some H1 owners work on their own trucks. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Feb 21, 2010 |
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Feb 20, 2010 23:47
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Was going to replace a missing power steering bolt but my bolt wasn't the correct thread. Then I found out my idler arm nut was only finger tight on my center link. Had to retorque that puppy down and put a new cotter pin on it.
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Mar 24, 2010 22:32
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Installing a hidden DC powered camcorder to catch whoever is dumping fruit pieces on the back of my hummer at my parking spot  At least they're not keying it. v v
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Mar 30, 2010 18:03
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Cheap Bourbon posted:I understand it may be bad form to bump something like this, but seriously, I'm guessing it was a vegan who didn't see the humor on my Biodiesel: This truck is a vegetarian bumper sticker It happened during spring break when there was a ton of visiting college students partying it up in our condos pool and lounge area because after that week, it stopped happening. Other cars, like ones who haven't been washed in forever had giant big dicks drawn into him so its pretty harmless.If it happened in public there's not much you can do about it, but in this case it was happening at my home at around the same time every morning which led me to waste my time for the most part. Oh well no big deal, it stopped and that's all that matters. Back to the topic, I have to do another oil change this weekend because I left my filter wrench at home when I did my oil change . Ah well at least I'll get all the oil out of the cooler. I'll also install the new HVAC blower motor and install some trim/interior bits on the truck.
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Apr 17, 2010 18:04
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would possess some green mofo to dump composting materials on your humv1? The mind boggles....
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Well I replaced by HVAC blower motor. High doesn't work and my A/C compressor sorta works now. Fuses are ok, wire connections are good so I'm guessing I'll have to shuffle around the 4 relays in the system to figure out if I need a new relay or to. Good thing they're all the same relay type.
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Apr 19, 2010 01:09
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Getting the cargo bed, rear fenders, and tailgate on the h1 line-xed. And learned a valuable lesson. Never tell a paint shop: " Don't worry about sanding the bed and cargo area and repainting it, I'm blasting it with bed covering anyways...."The body shop power washed and painted over the bed, leaving some dirt/sand/old paint chips under the bed area. Which means the liner is going to adhere to the sloppy paint job and peel the whole works from the metal. Oh well, got a friend who is going to media blast the bed and cargo area down to the aluminum and respray with zinc chromate or another marine grade aluminum primer. Should have left it all banged up and scratched.
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Apr 29, 2010 22:56
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Redid the power steering on my H1, broke a harbor freight pitman puller in doing so. Put a new steering box on, new return hoses, new pitman and idler arm and refilled the system with synthetic power steering fluid. I had a new power steering cooler to install, but the weld nuts on my old one were stripped and I didn't feel like removing the fan to get enough access room to deal with it at this point and time maybe next week I'll drain some fluid out and do the cooler then.
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Aug 17, 2010 13:40
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I'm doing the oil and filter right now.... to check to see if I need a new head gasket a few days before my big off road trip Oil that's still black but slightly snotty, but no white smoke... a mystery to solve. /edit Meh, False alarm, condensation on the dip stick tube, but nothing in the oil or coolant when I flushed it. Ah well I was due for a service. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Aug 25, 2010 |
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Aug 25, 2010 06:25
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Getting ready for a multi-day desert off road trip, so I did the Major service on the hummer. Did a bunch of stuff, coolant flush [lost a bleeder screw, but found it resting on a fuel rail later ], and a oil change.Then I picked up an surplus HMMWV undercarriage protection kit for $100 and installed it since my old one was all warped and banged up.  The Military kit was very through, the documentation included frame/crossmember blueprints and measurements for the M998A2, including plans to drill the crossmembers in case you had a really old humvee that didn't have the collars or holes for installation. Came with all CAD-plated bolts and locknuts all sorted into baggies. Also serviced each axle, greased all the propshafts, ball joints, radius and tie rods. Found a ball joint with a torn boot and replaced that. Drained all the hubs and refilled with lucas synthetic gear oil.  I'm thinking of getting an extra geared hub since they're universal on all wheels, the only difference being the spindle cover which bolts on and provides a mounting point for the radius/tie rods. With a spare hub so I can hot swap them for seal service without any downtime. I swapped the IAT, the truck was running a bit rougher than normal, and threw a IAT temperature error. Tech 2 showed it coming in at -30 [failure/no signal].  There was a few drops of oil on the old sensor, I pulled the intake and the turbo seal is seeping a bit, I'll have to redo the intake/turbo seals in a few months, I was planning to do this and install a boost/egt guage while I'm at it, so I'll do all that in one shot.   Next up was the t-case. The H1 and newer HMMWV transfer cases uses the NV242, the same as on a few jeep models. Since the two vehicle are different weight classes, the NV242 on the AM General application is a mutant version, beefed up to handle monster torque, and a gvw of 12-14k lbs. They beefed up the shafts, the planetary gears, thicker chain, etc. Otherwise it's the same design, just a tad bigger, it's usually labeled NV242-HD-HMR Theres one unique issue to the design, it runs very, very hot. Which requires active cooling. The engineers decided to use ATF from the 4L80/4L80E as a cooling medium and pump it through a finned cooling loop on the 242. On top of that, these trucks have a milspec drivetrain venting system, where all the ventlines are linked together. Which... introduces an interesting failure point. The cooling loop is soldered together [ ] and has very, very specific torque requirements during assembly. Something like 162 inch lbs, otherwise, the assembly can be tweaked or crushed, allowing a crack and leak. You can see it pictured above surrounding the front output shaft. This one pictured is the "fixed" version with small metal shim holding the 2 boxed valve sections in parallel as the nuts are torqued. One of the lines is marked blue externally, so a tech can pull off the hose on the case and check in a matter of a minute if the t-case was "fixed" or if it's the old lovely design. Anyways, the reason why I measure the overflow and what comes out of the t-case, is if there's a crack, the t-case will suck all of the ATF out of the transmission. And pump it through the vent system. Into the geared hubs, into the diffs, into the air filter. So if you don't check things out on a semi regular basis, you'll be sitting on the side of the road wondering why your transmission is burnt up, and hey.. why is there ATF dripping from my air filter? What a messy failure point. On my service, there was only 2-4 oz of overflow with 2.5 quarts coming out, any more than that would have indicated a leak or blocked vent line. I refilled with Dexron VI synthetic and buttoned it back up. The failure point is easily bypassed with a bunch of atf hose, you can loop off the cooler lines, and isolate the t-case. Some owners have decided to move the transfercase cooler into a separate circuit with it's own radiator and pump, which I might do if I'm really really bored one weekend. Oh, if anyone wants Dexron VI synthetic for cheap, I bumped into an SKU fuckup at pepboys. It was ringing up as 3.79 or 3.99 instead of 6.99. I pointed this out to the cashier and the manager twice and they rung it up on the scanner and were like, nope, thats the correct price.  So I got a few cases. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Aug 30, 2010 |
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Aug 30, 2010 16:51
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Is it for pumping fluid right out of the bottles? That would be awesome. Yeah, I got 2 sizes of them, they run like 8 bucks at pepboys. The technical term is a outboard motor oil pump so it'll be in the marine section of the store with the chassis grease. They have one for the gallon jugs as well. I use it for diff oil and transfer case stuff.
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Aug 30, 2010 22:23
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 IAT line error code popped back up again, Intermittent.Tore off the intake, and started poking through the cowl wire harness. Found the problem. Apparently the IAT line was cut/damaged, and was repaired with electrical tape [ ] a few years ago. Now it's brittle and rusted and about 2 or 3 copper strands barely keeping contact.I couldn't get a good crimp on it with a butt connector, so I wound up cutting a chunk out of the harness, and creating a new weatherpack connector with nice f-crimps [ ]. Hopefully that's the end of it. If not, I'll take the engine harness from a project truck and just reinstall the whole underhood electrical system.While I was at it, I decided to swap out my alternator, only to find out that my new spare, has the wrong case/mounting system for my truck. Welp, time for another rebuild. On that front, I picked up a Painless Wiring Circuit Boss fuse box with relays, so I'll rewire all my auxiliary stuff in a secondary electrical system separate from the factory system. It'll have it's own circuit breaker and relaybox in a pelican case bolted to the firewall, then I'll run lines with weatherpack connectors down to my lights, radio, etc. I'll probably do that next weekend when I have to pull the dash out.
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Sep 2, 2010 18:40
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Splizwarf posted:Post some photos of this, would you? It sounds pretty interesting. I'll document it, I'm pissed off at all the lovely off road wiring kits out there so I'm rolling my own. I want to leave the factory electrical and harnesses completely unmolested, and I don't want anything on the battery box. Right now I'm hunting for a nice dedicated relay box. A early 90's Toyota Celica relay box, might do the trick, It's just a small angled box with 4-5 automotive 5 pin relay connectors, and I can get salvaged ones for $10. It'll make it super easy to troubleshoot electrical in the future. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Sep 2, 2010 |
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Sep 2, 2010 18:56
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Finally fixed the power steering leak I've been chasing after for a few weeks. Cheap o-ring replacements did me in on the high pressure lines on the steering box. The 2nd set didn't seal worth of poo poo, and wound up getting Vitron o-rings and those did the job. Third times the charm I guess. No dripping with the brakes applied or steering lock to lock. I'll know tomorrow since , hopefully I'm going up into the mountains off road  Better bring spare hose and spare PS fluid.gently caress, when I did these jobs in the past I had no problem using generic o-rings. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Oct 29, 2010 |
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Oct 29, 2010 22:02
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Hmm something went south yesterday. My truck isn't charging at the correct voltage, my lift pump relay is intermittent and my boost pressure is lagging... Time to break out the meter.. it's probing time!!
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Jan 29, 2012 18:17
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Blew up something in the drive train today after playing in the mud. And had to pypass a seized vaccum pump... good times. I'm guessing water/mud contamination in one of my portal hubs. The gearset and spindle is fine since a wheel didn't pop off [ ], but I'm guessing the bearings are nice bits of metal pinging around in the hub.Ah well I was meaning to rebuild the hubs anyways. Time to hit the timken catalog.. On the upside I made a perfect mud casting of a 6.5 turbodiesel.. 
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 04:27 on May 14, 2012 |
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May 14, 2012 04:23
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 Ordered a new transmission crossmember for my H1 when checking out a speed sensor error I had during my last trip and a rattling noise. I went on a 1800 mile road trip to offroad in Colorado and Utah for 2 weeks with a cracked transmission crossmember. Didn't discover it until I got back home. Ah well at least its a cheap fix, $19 for the sensor, $150 for the crossmember.
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Oct 6, 2012 08:40
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kastein posted:Isn't that always great? I discovered my trans crossmember was a LOT worse than I thought when I prepped to leave for the latest new england AI get together, it was nearly flattened by rocks and had some pretty good cracks forming. So I brought the new one I'd fabricated from 1/4" wall box tubing and plate and installed it when I got there, since I don't have a paved driveway and Pipkin does. Yeah the boxed in trans crossmember is the way to go for any offroader. Its interesting the H1/HMMWV has everything on the chassis build as 1/4" HSSS steel box except for the tranny cross member which is a little flat C channel that gets banged up on rocks. Back in the 1990's someone made an aftermarket kit from 1/4" wall box tubing, I should look into milling something out like that... big improvement over OEM.
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Oct 6, 2012 16:08
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 22:37 |
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Had a new bumper I've been meaning to install over the past 3 years. Probably because the drat thing weights over 120 lbs and it had a few seized bolts. I got to sand the mounting surfaces and repaint, and install the new bumper once I pick up all new bolts and locknuts this week. Godspeed old bumper, your 1/4" box steel section saved me from damage from being rear ended by an Impala, a Cadillac CTS, and an old K-car dynasty...
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May 28, 2013 18:37
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