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some_admin posted:Meanwhile, I am currently suffering a fascination with RC helicopters and I don’t care for the fuselages. That's pretty cool. My brother is into R/C planes, helicopters and quads (well, and cars also). His largest helicopter is a size 500? I think. The main rotor diameter is like 1.2 meters or something silly. The thing is huge. He also has an RC airplane with a wingspan of about 7'. It's a PA-18 Piper Cub bush plane in I think 1/4 scale.
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Mar 31, 2024 17:42
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lol I have joined the RC club, see some of those giant giant airplanes on CL, will probably have some hijinks there. Meanwhile, the helicopter fuselage thing still draws me.
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Mar 31, 2024 19:18
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The Locator posted:That's pretty cool. My brother is into R/C planes, helicopters and quads (well, and cars also). His largest helicopter is a size 500? I think. The main rotor diameter is like 1.2 meters or something silly. The thing is huge. He also has an RC airplane with a wingspan of about 7'. It's a PA-18 Piper Cub bush plane in I think 1/4 scale. Funny you mention that, I have a 1/4 or perhaps larger scale line drawing of a bushplane (I want to say it is a DeHavilland of some sort) that is old enough to have been drafted by hand by someone decades ago. I was given it by the owner/operator of a model-building shop where I worked when they were cleaning out old things (those are the best days to be a model builder).
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Mar 31, 2024 19:23
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Vaporware posted:Thanks! I'll stick with looking at Heng Long for now unless I can find a good deal on Tamiya. Heng Long does some 1/30 stuff but they aren't that great to be honest. Tamiya 1/35 is still around but is pretty niche and you're paying around 2/3 the price of the equivalent 1/16 Heng Long. Plus at that scale you're dealing with rubber tracks and they're a bit poo poo. 1/16 is the way to go really.
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Mar 31, 2024 20:19
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Hi, all. Modelling adjacent, but I just got this book set yesterday and I am tickled pink - Son of Sherman - Second Edition - The Sherman Design and Development - 2 Volume Set. I'm not even a huge Sherman nut, but it's super high quality and is just an awesome reference if you're into the vehicle at all. It's not cheap by any measure (~$250), but I think it's absolutely worth it, and with a limited run, it will only get more expensive on the secondary market. I've got a 1/35 Rye Field M4A3E8 interior kit on the short list to build and I think these are going to be absolutely indispensable for getting the details right. Anyway, I'm not associated with it at all other than being a happy customer, and I figured there might be some like minded folks out there in this thread. I got mine from David Doyle Books. I'm not sure if they're the only seller, but they're certainly the only seller that has it as it was just released this week. 
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Apr 2, 2024 18:10
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Warmachine posted:When you find it, post it. I think I know what the next group build needs to be. Aoshima makes a 1/24 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10714060
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Apr 2, 2024 20:41
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Chuck_D posted:Hi, all. Modelling adjacent, but I just got this book set yesterday and I am tickled pink - Son of Sherman - Second Edition - The Sherman Design and Development - 2 Volume Set. I'm not even a huge Sherman nut, but it's super high quality and is just an awesome reference if you're into the vehicle at all. It's not cheap by any measure (~$250), but I think it's absolutely worth it, and with a limited run, it will only get more expensive on the secondary market. I'm curious to see how you like the Easy Eight interior kit, since I've been staring at the one in my backlog for longer than I'm willing to admit. The Firefly variant was kinda rougher than I'd like, and if I'm remembering correctly, you had the same experience. Do you have enough catalog with Steve Zaloga's modeler-oriented books to say how SOS compares? I have to assume this set's a little more comprehensive than the usual one-volume books, if nothing else.
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Apr 3, 2024 05:02
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm curious to see how you like the Easy Eight interior kit, since I've been staring at the one in my backlog for longer than I'm willing to admit. The Firefly variant was kinda rougher than I'd like, and if I'm remembering correctly, you had the same experience. My recollection of the Firefly build was that the build itself was fine but the tracks were crap. It seems that rye field gives you just enough parts in the kit to build the tracks, but the track parts are very small and fragile. So if you break even a couple of them you are going to be short on tracks. I ended up buying three or four different aftermarket sets of tracks for that kit, none of which were long enough, so I finally just broke down and bought an additional set of tracks from rye field to complete the build. I have already bought a new set of metal tracks for the easy 8 sherman. I'm hoping that will nip that whole problem in the bud. I don't think I have too many armor-related modeling books so I can't speak definitively regarding a comparison. I can say that now that I'm 100 or so pages into the book, it's very well written and clearly written by people with a passion for the topic. It's a fascinating and enjoyable read so far and I'm not even that big on the Sherman itself.
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Apr 4, 2024 00:09
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Chuck_D posted:Hi, all. Modelling adjacent, but I just got this book set yesterday and I am tickled pink - Son of Sherman - Second Edition - The Sherman Design and Development - 2 Volume Set. I'm not even a huge Sherman nut, but it's super high quality and is just an awesome reference if you're into the vehicle at all. It's not cheap by any measure (~$250), but I think it's absolutely worth it, and with a limited run, it will only get more expensive on the secondary market. I love to page through a good reference book and those look awesome! I'm so happy that Eduard is bringing the ship model mentality to the tank side of modeling. Somehow I managed to not lose any of the wingnuts and glue the thing together.  
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Apr 4, 2024 03:49
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Toothpicks with a little bit of blue-tac on the tip make for good handling options for extremely small photo etch parts, I have learned after many such small parts lost to the void.
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Apr 4, 2024 04:15
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Hey, I need a little help with cleaning -- I have this plastic cement: There's plenty of it left, but it won't come out the metal tip. I imagine a little bit of it has hardened or crystallized inside the thin tip and is blocking it. What solvent(s) could I use to flush it out? It seems too narrow to use a pin or a needle.
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Apr 4, 2024 14:25
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Apollodorus posted:Hey, I need a little help with cleaning -- I have this plastic cement: I just pass a lighter up and down the needle for a few seconds, that clears it out.
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Apr 4, 2024 14:39
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Lizard Combatant posted:I just pass a lighter up and down the needle for a few seconds, that clears it out. I've heard other people say this. That has to be incredibly toxic though. I would do it outside.
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Apr 4, 2024 16:37
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Apollodorus posted:Hey, I need a little help with cleaning -- I have this plastic cement: The lighter method is commonly used and works well, I would suggest ventilation though. Personally I've got a piece of thin copper wire that just happens to fit perfectly in there to unclog it.
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Apr 4, 2024 17:45
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Lizard Combatant posted:I just pass a lighter up and down the needle for a few seconds, that clears it out. Smoke posted:The lighter method is commonly used and works well, I would suggest ventilation though. Personally I've got a piece of thin copper wire that just happens to fit perfectly in there to unclog it. Ah, okay, I'll try one and then the other -- I might be able to scrounge up a small enough pin somewhere in the sewing cabinet. e: lighter seems to work, thanks y'all! Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 18:11
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Starting model number 2, the bizarre 007 Diamonds Are Forever police car. I wanted to try to get somewhat of a nice shine to the paintjob though. I got some absurdly-fine sandpaper and actually bothered to do a coat of primer this time, but I'm not ready to buy an airbrush. Do I have any chance brush-painting the body and sanding it or should I just get a can of spray paint at home depot? Any tips on number of coats/how long to sand/etc. is hugely appreciated
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Apr 4, 2024 23:58
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Charliegrs posted:I've heard other people say this. That has to be incredibly toxic though. I would do it outside. *Taps thread title*
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Apr 5, 2024 09:38
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Friend posted:Starting model number 2, the bizarre 007 Diamonds Are Forever police car. I wanted to try to get somewhat of a nice shine to the paintjob though. I got some absurdly-fine sandpaper and actually bothered to do a coat of primer this time, but I'm not ready to buy an airbrush. Do I have any chance brush-painting the body and sanding it or should I just get a can of spray paint at home depot? Any tips on number of coats/how long to sand/etc. is hugely appreciated That old AMT kit? I haven't built that kit, but having built some re-released older AMTs, I'll say this: please don't let it turn you off of modelling altogether. For painting the body, definitely pick up some spray paint. You can try brush painting (after thinning your paint), but I think it may just leave you frustrated. Give this a read for some tips. Your final finish probably won't come out like his (mine never do), but there's some good tips in here. http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm I would also recommend warming your spray cans. Pop them in a bucket or sink of nice warm water for a bit before spraying.
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Apr 5, 2024 13:38
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Yeah those old AMT kits can be very frustrating. The first time I built a Tamiya kit after nothing but AMT and Revell was a revelation.
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Apr 5, 2024 16:28
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:That old AMT kit? I haven't built that kit, but having built some re-released older AMTs, I'll say this: please don't let it turn you off of modelling altogether. Oh yeah it's total dogshit (and all I have to compare it to is a revell pickup), I just wanted something to practice painting with before I get a model I actually care about. Thanks for the tips!
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Apr 5, 2024 18:05
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therunningman posted:I love to page through a good reference book and those look awesome! You should look into wax pencils if you end up having to place any more of those microscopic pieces. Lord Ludikrous posted:Heng Long does some 1/30 stuff but they aren't that great to be honest. Tamiya 1/35 is still around but is pretty niche and you're paying around 2/3 the price of the equivalent 1/16 Heng Long. Plus at that scale you're dealing with rubber tracks and they're a bit poo poo. 1/16 is the way to go really. That sucks. Too bad miniaturization hasn't gotten to tanks yet. Buggies and crawlers seem to be moving into a smaller scale.
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Apr 10, 2024 15:22
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Tamiya is releasing a new sportier version of the Datsun 240Z and oh God it's going to get me back into car modeling https://www.tamiya.com/japan/produc...sTN-7rG6Kw9otGU
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Apr 10, 2024 23:56
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Charliegrs posted:Tamiya is releasing a new sportier version of the Datsun 240Z and oh God it's going to get me back into car modeling Oh dip, I may need to grab one of those.
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Apr 11, 2024 00:38
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I’ve got the original one but I do feel the need for a second one.
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Apr 11, 2024 04:14
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Decided to have a bit of fun and do something different and built and painted the Churchill Mk VII party bus.  
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Apr 11, 2024 23:45
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Oh dip, I may need to grab one of those. Seriously. Also one of the kits, those look nice too.
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Apr 12, 2024 00:43
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Can I use Tamiya X-21 (flat base) and Tamiya X-1 (gloss black) to create a semi-gloss black? If so what ratio would you recommend? I'm a new to modeling and I bought the X-21 thinking it was a matt clear coat, but it's an additive for turning gloss paints into flat paints. The model I'm working on calls for X-18 which is a semi-glass black and my local hobby shop doesn't have it. I figured I might as well use this X-21 if I can.
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Apr 12, 2024 16:45
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netizen posted:Can I use Tamiya X-21 (flat base) and Tamiya X-1 (gloss black) to create a semi-gloss black? If so what ratio would you recommend? Never used it but the Tamiya page for it says mix at 1:1 (NEVER MORE) to turn gloss into flat sheen. My guess is you can mix any ratio up that for a continuous spectrum from gloss to flat. I’m not sure where their bottled semi-gloss lies on that spectrum. Do you happen to have any other semi gloss you can match the sheen to? Sorry I know I’m not answering the question but I own it and now I want to know so I looked it up. Most discussions seem to be people mistakenly buying it as a clear coat then looking for ratios to make it work with gloss clear. I did find a source that said in its proper application as a flattening agent: 4:1 ratio (gloss paint:x-21) for flat 10:1 ratio for semi-gloss Hopefully someone that has actually used it can weigh in, otherwise I’d just wing it, testing a couple ratios on spoons or scrap until you are happy.
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Apr 12, 2024 18:53
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uwaeve posted:Never used it but the Tamiya page for it says mix at 1:1 (NEVER MORE) to turn gloss into flat sheen. My guess is you can mix any ratio up that for a continuous spectrum from gloss to flat. I’m not sure where their bottled semi-gloss lies on that spectrum. Do you happen to have any other semi gloss you can match the sheen to? Sorry I know I’m not answering the question but I own it and now I want to know so I looked it up. Unfortunately I don't have any other semi-gloss paints to compare. That's a good idea about testing it on a spoon, I think I have a package of plastic spoons around here somewhere. I'll give that a try and see how it turns out. Thanks.
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Apr 12, 2024 19:16
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Vaporware posted:You should look into wax pencils if you end up having to place any more of those microscopic pieces. Good idea, always open to improving the toolbox. I used a China marker I had around this time, sorta worked but was very sensitive.
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Apr 12, 2024 23:06
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uwaeve posted:Never used it but the Tamiya page for it says mix at 1:1 (NEVER MORE) to turn gloss into flat sheen. My guess is you can mix any ratio up that for a continuous spectrum from gloss to flat. I’m not sure where their bottled semi-gloss lies on that spectrum. Do you happen to have any other semi gloss you can match the sheen to? Sorry I know I’m not answering the question but I own it and now I want to know so I looked it up. netizen posted:Unfortunately I don't have any other semi-gloss paints to compare. That's a good idea about testing it on a spoon, I think I have a package of plastic spoons around here somewhere. I'll give that a try and see how it turns out. Thanks. X-18 which is semi gloss black tends towards the glossier end of the spectrum. I've taken to living with it these days although it annoys me a little but I did at one point mix my own semi gloss black which was a 70:30 mix of semi gloss black and flat black. I'm sure the semi gloss used to be a different level of sheen but has changed along the way. If you can get some a can of TS29 might give you a good indication of what the semi gloss used to look like.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:36
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I run a lot of x-18 through my airbrush and it comes out drat near identical to ts-29. Just brushing it on tends to come out glossier, though.
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Apr 13, 2024 04:06
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Yeah I go through piles of it but mostly brushing it on because even though I have an airbrush I need to use it outside and thats a pain for quite a bit of the year
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Apr 13, 2024 07:40
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:X-18 which is semi gloss black tends towards the glossier end of the spectrum. I've taken to living with it these days although it annoys me a little but I did at one point mix my own semi gloss black which was a 70:30 mix of semi gloss black and flat black. I'm sure the semi gloss used to be a different level of sheen but has changed along the way. I'll probably just mix something up that looks acceptable and use that. It's just for the instrument panel on a F4U Corsair so I don't even know how visible it's going to be. This is only my second model and my first airplane. I was mainly just curious if I could use the X-21 to make a semi-gloss. I figured I have it so I might as well use it...
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Apr 13, 2024 15:10
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I don't see why you couldn't. Try 2:1 color:flat and see what happens. If it's too flat just hit it with some nose grease  .
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Apr 13, 2024 15:23
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Alright, 1:150 scale pre-illuminated LED vehicles isn't something I knew I wanted, but these look awesome. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baShXPp24mQ
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Apr 13, 2024 15:47
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therunningman posted:Good idea, always open to improving the toolbox. I used a China marker I had around this time, sorta worked but was very sensitive. As mentioned not too far above, a blob of blu-tak or similar on a toothpick works really well.
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Apr 13, 2024 16:12
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I don't see why you couldn't. Try 2:1 color:flat and see what happens. If it's too flat just hit it with some nose grease I wonder if this X-21 stuff might be kind of useful if it works well. I can just purchase gloss paints and convert them to different sheens instead of having to buy gloss, semi-gloss, flat variants of the same color.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:29
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netizen posted:I wonder if this X-21 stuff might be kind of useful if it works well. I can just purchase gloss paints and convert them to different sheens instead of having to buy gloss, semi-gloss, flat variants of the same color. It's pretty handy stuff. I've built a few kits that call for it being mixed with gloss paints that aren't available in flat versions.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:45
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I am also working on a F4U Corsair. I have been building car and tank kits for a while but this is my first plane. After painting it I hit with a gloss coat so I can do the decaling, but my question is what kind of clear should I put over it after that? Right now it kind of looks "correct" with the gloss coat so maybe I should use gloss? Or would semi gloss look more realistic? I have matte too but I feel like that might not look right. The real planes seem to have a little bit of shine.
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Apr 13, 2024 22:00
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