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One thing I've been told when trying to color match is that small kits seem darker than the full size article. Not sure exactly why this is; it probably has something to do with the way the brain sees colors (small things reflect less light). I haven't run into this myself yet; have any of you?
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Feb 12, 2010 04:04
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Midjack posted:One thing I've been told when trying to color match is that small kits seem darker than the full size article. Not sure exactly why this is; it probably has something to do with the way the brain sees colors (small things reflect less light). I've not heard of this phenomena myself but your logic makes sense. Also, I personally (and foolishly) tend to put kits on a shelves rather than well-lit, exposed desktops/tabletops. This habit is, of course, in direct contrast to how the genuine article would be displayed; so I can say on a personal level that the lighting conditions are dramatically different.
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Feb 12, 2010 04:19
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Danger - Octopus! pointed to this thread so I thought I'd show some work off. Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This is a small tank diorama I made. I put it together a few years ago while playing Call of Duty with a realism unit (clan). I made this page explaining how the base was made: http://www.darthbrooks.net/Tank/Tank.html It was made long enough ago to have a 56K warning on it. This is another kit, the interceptor from Mad Max. The car I want is Chitty Chitty Bang Bang but nobody makes it.  Click here for the full 900x471 image.
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Feb 12, 2010 05:17
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Midjack posted:One thing I've been told when trying to color match is that small kits seem darker than the full size article. Not sure exactly why this is; it probably has something to do with the way the brain sees colors (small things reflect less light). As a miniature painter I can say that this is true. If you paint a miniature that is 54mm scale you can use colours in a completely different way than, say 6mm, because you need to use much brighter and more vibrant colours at tiny miniatures to make the colour even visible.
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Feb 12, 2010 09:23
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Generator posted:The hull so far. Nice work. At first glance, I thought this was some kind of sci-fi movie prop.
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Feb 14, 2010 20:51
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This thread inspired me to finish my Zaku 2.0 gundam model kit over the weekend. I ended up having to use more adhesive than I would have liked, but oh well. What's the best glue to use on plastic kits?
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Feb 16, 2010 16:41
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The liquid plastic weld type. I think testors has a triangular black bottle with a needle dispenser that they sell. Should be easy to find in a store. If you're willing to wait for shipment order some online, it'll be cheaper.
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Feb 16, 2010 17:06
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Thanks for the advice! Ordered a few Testors "Model Master" Liquid Cement applicator online. Should be immensely less messy than the tube of gorilla glue I used over the weekend.
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Feb 16, 2010 17:37
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Vaporware posted:The liquid plastic weld type. I think testors has a triangular black bottle with a needle dispenser that they sell. Should be easy to find in a store. If you're willing to wait for shipment order some online, it'll be cheaper. Testors also sells small (~2 oz) bottles of clear brush on cement that works really well too.
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Feb 17, 2010 04:20
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Speaking of glue, I was using Tenax for ages but just bought a bottle of Ambroid Pro-Weld to try it out. I LOVE the Ambroid now. Tenax seemed to evaporate half the time before you even got it on your model, and then when you did it didn't seem to melt the plastic as well it should have. Ambroid stays nice and wet, and seems much hotter on the plastic, melting stuff nice and quick for a good bond. Never going back to Tenax now.
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Feb 17, 2010 05:41
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Midjack posted:Testors also sells small (~2 oz) bottles of clear brush on cement that works really well too. This stuff is the poo poo buy it in quantity if you can.
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Feb 17, 2010 06:02
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Mr. Despair posted:Well I'm glad I found out about this thread. I've built a few things, and while most of it isn't really amazing, I still have fun doing it. Most of the following is hand painted (the stug III, Skyline, and Porsche are exceptions though). I have a paasche, but it doesn't get much use. Great stuff, thanks for posting it. What's the build quality like on Zvezda kits? I've considered getting some of their 1/72 stuff before because they model a lot of planes that just aren't available from anyone else.
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Feb 17, 2010 16:07
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Hello, I don't build models myself but enjoy watching others do it. I really like the kind of stuff on this guy's youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/Jiscuit Any other vids or channels you guys can recommend? I prefer to watch models based on real life rather than giant robots.
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Feb 18, 2010 07:53
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Anyone have an experience with the harbor freight air compressors? from what I see on their website they don't have the fancy regulators. I really need a quiet, cheap compressor.
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Feb 20, 2010 07:04
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Kallikrates posted:Anyone have an experience with the harbor freight air compressors? from what I see on their website they don't have the fancy regulators. I really need a quiet, cheap compressor. When it comes to a compressor, quiet and cheap are generally mutually exclusive.
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Feb 20, 2010 10:09
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Theres a diference between silent and quiet, the compressor at work is small but you can't have a conversation in the same room as it, I don't want that. Something around 65 dBs (conversation level) so I can run it out on my balcony and not annoy my neighbors.
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Feb 20, 2010 23:16
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Kallikrates posted:Something around 65 dBs (conversation level) so I can run it out on my balcony and not annoy my neighbors. And as I said, you can't really get that for cheap. What's your price range? What you're looking for is typically at the very least $200. Something that works well and is quiet enough to run indoors usually hits $300 to $400.
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Feb 20, 2010 23:43
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:And as I said, you can't really get that for cheap. What's your price range? What you're looking for is typically at the very least $200. Something that works well and is quiet enough to run indoors usually hits $300 to $400. If you're running it indoors remember that you're going to have a very not-silent ventilation system running in that room too. Right?
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Feb 21, 2010 16:57
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Midjack posted:If you're running it indoors remember that you're going to have a very not-silent ventilation system running in that room too. Not necessarily. Personally I don't even use an actively vented spray hood. I just have a hood made out of a cardboard box, with a furnace filter at the back to catch overspray. I don't do a ton of airbrush work, so it suits me. Actively vented can be quiet as well. The store bought hoods do tend to be loud, but you can build one for relatively cheap, and you can vent it with PC case fans which are pretty quiet. Saying that though, even the noisier spray hoods are a LOT quieter than noisy compressors. Loud compressors are not just loud, they're loud enough to the point where you don't even want to be in the same room with them.
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Feb 22, 2010 09:08
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Powdered Toast Man posted:Great stuff, thanks for posting it. What's the build quality like on Zvezda kits? I've considered getting some of their 1/72 stuff before because they model a lot of planes that just aren't available from anyone else. It's ok. That's about the only thing I can think of to say about it right now, actually. It's not bad, but it's not real high quality either. Everything fits together like it should though, so putting it together has been nice, just don't expect super nice quality plastic or details.
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Feb 24, 2010 05:31
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I was just pointed to this thread from another and have scanned the first bunch of pages looking for the places to buy models. Megahobby.com and squadron.com are both good starts but I'm still going to ask; can anyone point me to a good place to get 1/35 scale armor. Specifically the Sturmtiger 38cm mortar tank. I don't care which company the kit comes from but I want it cheap. Thanks. edit: after checking the web fairly closely (I think) I have come to the realization that most models are not cheap, especially when you add shipping that is 40-50% of the model price. Any good shops for military models in or around Toronto, Ontario? 2nd edit: A more complete list, on the slim chance someone has one of these. 38cm Assault Mortar Sturmtiger AFV Kit #AF 35103 Italeri Kit #299 Tamiya Kit #35177 Revell Kit # 03080 Testors Kit # 10299 Sturmpanzer IV Brummbar late Sd. Kfz. 166 Dragon Kit #6081 Dragon Kit #6026 Dragon Kit #6042 Sturmpanzerwagen A7V Tank Emhar Kit #5003 Tauro Kit #106 Tauro Kit #101 Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Feb 25, 2010 |
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Feb 25, 2010 12:35
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Stupid question, have you tried Ebay?
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Feb 25, 2010 22:50
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There are not a lot of decent online model shops in Canada. The two I order from most are Sprue Brothers and Lucky Model. Sprue Brothers in the US has excellent prices, excellent service, and 100% perfect real-time stock quotes. What you see on the site is in stock for sure. Quick shipping from them too (I'm in Vancouver). Lucky Model is in Hong Kong, and generally has the lowest prices you will find on models. Just make sure when you buy something from them that it says "In Stock". A lot of items are listed as "Available", which just means they can get it, but it might take 3 days or 3 months. Great Models is good too, probably the largest model shop on the web. They're not great at keeping stuff in stock though, as some items most other shops keep in stock regularly may not be reordered at Great Models for months/years at a time. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Feb 26, 2010 |
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Feb 26, 2010 02:16
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I've bought my stuff from Model Hobbies, and can't complain about anything. Don't know if the shipping is expensive outside Europe though.
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Feb 26, 2010 16:22
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/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ Not crazy expensive, but after paying for shipping I'd be paying FLMS prices. Thanks though. Cakefool posted:Stupid question, have you tried Ebay? I have checked ebay, not much choice and the shipping costs destroy any savings I get from low bid items. Thanks Bloody Hedgehog, I've checked a bunch of online sources as well as emailing my FLGS (FLMS?) and I'm either going to buy local for about +25% over the best online price or order from luckymodel.com The only bummer there is that two items are Available and not In Stock, I may just say to hell with it and pull the trigger on the two items that are In Stock. Sadly the cheapest shipping option is a slow boat from China (literally) which sucks, but what the hell I can wait. Thanks for the assist guys. edit: Perhaps the first post should be edited to include all the info Bloody Hedgehog and others have supplied so people can find retailers more easily. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Feb 26, 2010 |
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Feb 26, 2010 16:39
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Indolent Bastard posted:...as well as emailing my FLGS (FLMS?) I think most guys doing historical modeling use LHS, the Local Hobby Store. Are the other two acronyms used in the tabletop gaming circles?
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Feb 27, 2010 04:00
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I think most guys doing historical modeling use LHS, the Local Hobby Store. Are the other two acronyms used in the tabletop gaming circles? Friendly Local Game Store, and I'm guessing the second was Friendly Local Model Store. I guess hobby stores aren't friendly places. 
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Feb 27, 2010 04:10
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Midjack posted:Friendly Local Game Store, and I'm guessing the second was Friendly Local Model Store. I guess hobby stores aren't friendly places. It's almost true though. The few gaming stores I've been to, most people there are really friendly and want to show new customers all the cool games and product they have. Most model shops in my area are run by paunchy old men who want you to buy something or get out. The worst was a shop that had a ton of selection. Run by a guy and his wife in their 70's, along with a friend perhaps in his 80's. The whole time you're in there you're eyeballed like you're smuggling state secrets, while the owners scream at each other because they're all as deaf as posts. They closed about a year ago though, I'm assuming because one of them finally went tits up. "Did we get in that pallet of Woodland Scenics in, Mother?" "Wassat? "I said DID WE GET THAT WOODLAND SCENICS ORDER IN?!?" "Wooldung Celtics? I don't think we carry that line." "WHICH?" "I SAY WE DON'T CARRY ANY CELTICS GEAR!" "Heh heh, you hear that Tom, she thinks I said Celtics!" "WHO'S TALKING? Speak UP Bil.... WATCH THAT GUY IN THE CORNER! WATCH HIM, HE'S ONE OF THEM SHIFTY TOJO'S"
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Feb 27, 2010 04:27
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Well I've just found this thread also. Tucked away ain't it? I recently tried some 1/32 scale models for a change away from the 28mm models and the 15mm FoW stuff. I've only done three models but have a Dragon T34 on order which I can't wait to get to try some white wash effects. Anyway this is what I have so far:  A Sherman 76mm  A Tiger 1E  A Hetzer Jadpanzer 
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Feb 27, 2010 19:41
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   Any other suggestions for vehicles to use/ruin as Ork Battlewagons/looted tanks what have you, in 40K? I don't know historical armor very well so just found these by scanning model websites.
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Feb 27, 2010 19:59
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big_g posted:Well I've just found this thread also. Tucked away ain't it? Where did you get this display? How much was it and what are the dimensions of those shelves?
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Feb 27, 2010 20:02
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Indolent Bastard posted:
Halftracks are good too. Put a steamroller on the front and you're in great shape.
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Feb 27, 2010 20:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:
If you're really going to trick a standard model out with extra armour plating, addons, and bitz to turn it into a GW model, I say go with something that doesn't even look remotely like a Warhammer vehicle. Get a Jagdpanther or even a Tiger and go nuts on it. You'll have an extremely unique vehicle when you take it to a game that will be the envy of everyone. Hell, get something russian as their armour was extremely bulky, with loads of heavy rivets and rough casting marks. You're halfway to an Orc vehicle right there with a piece of russian armour.
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Feb 27, 2010 23:28
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you're really going to trick a standard model out with extra armour plating, addons, and bitz to turn it into a GW model, I say go with something that doesn't even look remotely like a Warhammer vehicle. Get a Jagdpanther or even a Tiger and go nuts on it. You'll have an extremely unique vehicle when you take it to a game that will be the envy of everyone. Cool thanks, a SU-85 Russian Tank Destroyer looks great as does the Jagdpanther. I'm looking for something with big gently caress-off treads and a slanted front mounted gun with a big rear deck to try a variation of this: http://www.nightserpent.com/battlewagon.html and those two fit the bill pretty well.
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Feb 28, 2010 01:08
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I just found this thread too. Just getting back into the hobby thing, sucking up the nerve to ditch rattle cans and upgrade to an airbrush. Thinking about the 200-19 set from Badger, they have it listed on their garage sale page. Anyone have that brush? http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Garage_Sale.asp You can also find Cyclone compressors with no reserve on ebay, though they almost don't sound legit at the price some of them are auctioned off at.
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Feb 28, 2010 07:34
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TheFuglyStik posted:The results are never as good as you expect once you get the decal on the model. That inkjet film is extremely fragile and very hard to keep from loving up. I say save the money and have custom waterslides made somewhere for roughly the same price. I know this is a bit old, but somebody tell me more about this. I'm halfway through my first kit for about 30 years and I need custom decals to finish it, and I was kind of counting on the print-your-own ones. Is there a way you can get good results? Or what alternatives are there? I'm trying to turn this:  - into this: 
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Feb 28, 2010 14:20
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http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2007/07/tutorial-custom-decal-sheets.html That is one of the best decal sheet tutorials I have seen on the internet. Great idea for a project by the way. I want to build a Dharma Van and Jeep at the sonic fence diorama with some serious weathering.
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Feb 28, 2010 20:46
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Done more on my helicopter   Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Main body is getting there, have just perched the rota blades on the top, but you get the idea. Next step, poo poo loads of tiny handles and transfers! Woo! The main problem I'm having is that it looks as though the moulds for the pieces are a little off/worn out as I'm having to do a lot of cutting and sanding.
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Mar 1, 2010 19:35
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Does anyone have any experience with the 1/35 scale "Magic Tracks." The type that dragon now seem to be using. Any advice on how best to use these would be gratefully received.
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Mar 4, 2010 18:11
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