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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Yeah, there are a bunch of silver watercolor pencils out there. You've gotta cross out the "silver" on the barrel and etch in "toxic masculinity" if you don't want you get made fun of, though.

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Mod Podge, or better still, archival PVA glue. Works on more stuff than you'd think, plus it's a great sealant.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Yeah, but if I got those I'd build even fewer models. I'd just start pretending I had a duck puppet every time I went to use them.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Sure, but what if you could get ten times that much bridge?

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/border-model-bs-002-akagi-bridge-w-flight-deck--1485424

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
It's seriously loving gigantic. A 1/35th Sherman fits neatly into the hull tub with room to spare on all sides.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

HaHA! New toys! Now that the Jim Byrnes table-saw is temporarily unavailable after his passing late last year, I got the next best thing. Can't wait to mess around with this thing in the next few days. First order of business is to build a cross-cut sled.



In today's wideo, I cut finger.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Zodack posted:

I used to shake mine but I figure 30 or 40 bucks to tap a thing on a surface and get it mixed strongly is a pretty good investment. Except, you know, when they crap out immediately.

The ten-to-hundred buck models are all basically the same mechanism in a different body style. Your best bet for a cheap, good vortex mixer is to see if a local college or research lab is getting rid of one. The industrial models last forever because they're designed to be used by research assistants, so they need to be too large to easily fit into a human mouth.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Darth Brooks posted:

There's an estate sale about five blocks away with a colossal amount of model kits.


https://www.estatesales.net/MO/Carthage/64836/3962628

Assuming the person who lived there is gone, I'm sad now I never had a chance to talk to him. That is a lot of cool kits. I wonder what the kits he built look like.

Hey, neat, a grim vision of my own mortality.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I've been putting my scale kits aside to dive into wargaming crap for the past year, and let me tell you, there's something theraputic about being able to build and basecoat a single Tamiya armored car in under an hour, compared to loving around with a GW miniature squad.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Apollodorus posted:

My Flyhawk 1/700 Hood arrived today and it looks amazing. Soooo many tiny bits. The wood decking is sweet.

I need to work out what gets assembled before painting, and what needs painted before assembly.

Oh also…any good primer and airbrush recommendations? I’m planning to go with Tamiya paints.

Primer's kinda subjective, and also you should figure out if you want to do rattlecans, if you have a preference for generic acrylic primer versus lacquer, etc.

Get a compressor with a tank. You should probably expect to drop about a hundred bucks US or local equivalent on this to get one that's good, but not too marked-up in price. The handheld compressors suck, the tiny desktop compressors for makeup suck, but you also don't need a giant shop compressor designed to drive tools or inflate truck tires.

Airbrush recommendations are like going up to someone and saying "hey, what kind of car should I buy?" It's a hellscape. In what country do you reside, and how much are you budgeting for your airbrush?

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Acrylic primers are formulated to shrink a little bit as they dry, so they're getting more of a mechanical fit than a chemical attachment.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Since Akira Toriyama died, I decided to put together one of the Fine Molds kits based off his designs.

This is a vintage '94 model, and I'm pretty sure they made the original master cast out of green stuff, based on some of the textural artifacts. Lotta filling, lotta sanding. That break in the bag strap just outright cannot be made to fit, and I got too lazy to cut the whole thing off and reposition it. Alas.

I get the impression the very detailed PPSh was intended to be about half the draw of the kit, instead of just an accessory.







I've got the Flyhawk T-34 in the mail to replace the Trumpeter one on the plinth, so I guess that'll be my next show-off post in this thread. Look forward to it in six to twelve months.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Blue Footed Booby posted:

That whole build is pretty sweet, but I especially love the wood grain on the ppsh.

Meanwhile, speaking of Russian equipment, I was working on the trumpeter BMP-3 I complained about before when I was struck, as I occasionally am, by how BIG modern fighting vehicles are.

Here's the work in progress with a Char B1 in the same scale. Imagine what a BMP with a 30mm auto cannon could do on the Eastern front.

Thanks!

Comparative bigness is legit one of the reasons I consider buying kits in first place, let alone putting the things together to gawp at them side-by-side. Just scratches an urge deep in the brain to categorize and compare.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Dr. VooDoo posted:

So I bought all the stuff to do scale monster models and was doing well at the first few stages but I ended up freezing up when it was getting into filling seam lines and eventually painting because I’m scared of messing up my models and it’s resulted in me stalling out now for nearly a year. Anyone else experience, I guess for lack of a better term, model hesitation because you don’t wanna gently caress it up?

Constantly. My backlog is gigantic because I'm psyching myself out, not because I'm not regularly in the mood to play with my toys.

The solution is to brazen it out, but ymmv on how easy that is to just do.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Chuck_D posted:

Hi, all. Modelling adjacent, but I just got this book set yesterday and I am tickled pink - Son of Sherman - Second Edition - The Sherman Design and Development - 2 Volume Set. I'm not even a huge Sherman nut, but it's super high quality and is just an awesome reference if you're into the vehicle at all. It's not cheap by any measure (~$250), but I think it's absolutely worth it, and with a limited run, it will only get more expensive on the secondary market.

I've got a 1/35 Rye Field M4A3E8 interior kit on the short list to build and I think these are going to be absolutely indispensable for getting the details right. Anyway, I'm not associated with it at all other than being a happy customer, and I figured there might be some like minded folks out there in this thread. I got mine from David Doyle Books. I'm not sure if they're the only seller, but they're certainly the only seller that has it as it was just released this week.



I'm curious to see how you like the Easy Eight interior kit, since I've been staring at the one in my backlog for longer than I'm willing to admit. The Firefly variant was kinda rougher than I'd like, and if I'm remembering correctly, you had the same experience.

Do you have enough catalog with Steve Zaloga's modeler-oriented books to say how SOS compares? I have to assume this set's a little more comprehensive than the usual one-volume books, if nothing else.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Charliegrs posted:

I'm working on the 1/72 Tamiya F4U. It doesn't have folding wings but if it did I would definitely do unfolded. Folded would probably be cool for an aircraft carrier diorama. Id upload some pics but the imgur uploader isn't cooperating with me right now but I'm going with a pretty worn look, like the ones that were land based on Pacific islands. Apparently that lime green color in the cockpit is a primer and the whole plane is painted with it so I did some chipping effects with that color as well as some exposed metal. Again, I wish I could post pics.

I know this is the most stereotypical modeler response possible, but your paint question is going to have a different answer based on what time period your subject is from.

The really late- and post-war schemes in navy blue were glossy as hell. The earlier powder blue and three-color schemes were comparatively pretty matte. As you noted, the primer is all over, and the land-based planes got the poo poo chipped out of them all the time between sea air and debris. If you wanted to do some fancy texture work, you could keep the primer matte and mix a little gloss into the paint so you get hue and texture contrast with your chipping. They'll have a lot of sun bleaching on the upper surfaces, too, which gives you the chance to do some cool color mottling.

The cool bit is nobody's going to nab you for model crimes, so if you like a particular sheen to your paint, go for it.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Ensign Expendable posted:

I checked scalemates and goddamn, it too me a year to make this.



Full album: https://imgur.com/a/eNtoyus

I mean, a year seems like a pretty reasonable time frame to paint over a dozen large-scale figures, two guns, and an entire scenic diorama. I think it looks great.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Fearless posted:

Some work in progress shots of a Charles Stadden 54mm figure of a British Light Dragoon officer, probably the 13th. I think the uniform is pre-Victorian, c. 1835. This was during the period in which the British light cavalry had been switched to red coats at the insistence of King William IV, who had spent significant time in the Royal Navy prior to ascending to the throne and felt strongly that dark blue belonged to the RN. Anyways, the figure itself is probably from the late 60s-70s. Stadden was a prolific sculptor and his extremely detailed (for the time) figures that also featured a very high degree of natural looking animation as opposed to the rather stiff poses of earlier toy soldiers. This was a significant departure from what companies like William Britain's and most of their contemporaries (Elastolin was producing wonderfully dynamic poses in their toy soldier lines at this time but they were marketed at kids and pretty soft on detail). In no small part, his sculpts paved the way for the later proliferation of 54mm and larger scale figures.

This particular miniature is lead and pretty hefty as one might expect. It's also a very different approach to figures-- today you will see every insignia and marking reproduced on the sculptor down to minute detail. Stadden left a lot of that off (I suspect because a lot of the detail that is sculpted on today is actually badly out of scale) but added the occasional faint line as a guide for details that he expected the capable painter to add in themselves.





And that's why I spent several hours tonight free-hand painting a royal cipher and regimental information on a piece of lead sheet that was helpfully provided cut out into the shape of a horse blanket. The scarlet of the tunic is nowhere near that bright-- the lighting and my phone camera make it look far more saturated than it really is. I have some finely cut strips of lead that will be fashioned into reins eventually, plus a whole bunch of details to add, the face, gloved hands, shading and highlights for all that gold and so on.

I am forever grateful to an earlier me that made the decision to pick up a set of W&N Series 7M brushes because they have been incredibly helpful in this project.

That's pretty neat. I've always like bigger miniatures, since you get to work in textural rendering and lots of nice face detail, but it's not as arduous as doing a full bust. Plus that's pretty cool just from a historical hobby standpoint.

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I finished my Flyhawk FT today.






With slightly later tiny French tank in similar colors, and obligatory goofy scale object.



Overall, pretty good kit. There's some general smart assembly aids, detail is the usual absurdly high level for Flyhawk kits, and it mostly fits together very snugly once you've got everything up. The tracks actually come as one full plastic part that slip on and mesh with the drive sprocket, like the dream version of vinyl tracks.

My one complaint is that the tail doesn't have very solid attachment points - you've got a small side-to-side contact up at the top part of the brace, and no very good seat for the plate of the tail down at the bottom of the tank. A quick blow-dry to cure my first layer of matte varnish actually pushed the thing off with plain old mechanical pressure.

I'm sorta tempted to try to put together one of my 1/35 FTs over the next little while just for the sake of it.

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