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I bought an Iwata Revolution CR just a couple of days ago. plus one of these : for £80 when they're £140 in my local hobby shop. I bought a bottle of vajello air to start, so I knew what to thin to, now I'm thinning normal acrylics to suit. It's great fun, being able to put down a smooth solid basecoat in minutes using just a dozen drops of paint. I wish I'd have bought one 10 years ago.
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Jun 6, 2009 21:00
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:53 |
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Thanks, toy soldiers is pretty nerdy but hey, it's a hobby. Workspace for airbrushing:  Click here for the full 600x629 image.Knocked this up out of the box the compressor turned up in, I'll make something more permanent soon. After having a play I realise I would benefit from some proper airbrush cleaning fluid and somewhere to prop my brush that isn't in the tank I'm painting. The blue stuff is car screenwash by the way, the chap in my model shop swears by thinning with it, I found it dries a lot quicker than water & I don't need to thin the paint as much, it's pretty good. The compressor is under the desk, it probably ran 1/5 the time I was painting. I also need some method of unplugging my airbrush without losing all tank pressure, is a quick-release on the brush the norm? Sorry to turn this to painting/airbrushing, I'm interested in other aspects as well.
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Jun 6, 2009 22:52
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Does anyone have any links to airbrushing miniatures tutorials? I'm too tight to pay £26 for Forgeworlds Imperial Armour Masterclass. Google isn't a lot of help, other than letting me know that most people that airbrush t-shirts have mullets 
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Jun 8, 2009 06:24
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Silly question - I'm airbrushing with acrylics, in a well ventilated room - do I need fume extraction? I think not, but am I going to kill myself?
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Jun 9, 2009 06:29
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Because I just watched James May get shot to the edge of space, and I'm as impressionable as wet clay, I really want to build a really good model of the Saturn 5 rocket. Where would I look for a good one, brand wise?
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Jun 29, 2009 17:25
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Buy an ork battlewagon, paint saturn 5 on the side, and mount it on a launching pad. A Saturn 5 composed of grotbombs & duct tape 
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Jun 29, 2009 22:12
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Yeah, thanks. I found the 1/96 Revell for about £50 over here, I'll have to act surprised if it turns up and the missus gives me that look 
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Jun 30, 2009 21:22
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I always wondered what those things were, funky. You just dip it into the glue yeah? Might have to look at one. I generally get away with glueing the inside of a seam, but visible glue marks can be unavoidable.
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Jul 13, 2009 19:45
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Archer2338 posted:I'm inclined towards WWII armored vehicles, but some of them look insanely detailed and I would most likely die from frustration if I bought the wrong model. Scale doesn't really matter, but what's the best "starter" size? Kits are also often graded by difficulty, from basic snap-fit to insane 32 kajillion part 1/900000000 bits where assembly time is rated in man-years, not hours. If you have a good local hobby store, go and have a chat. Tell them you're after a decent low to mid difficulty kit to get into the hobby properly. If they're any good they'll try and sell you something suitable, or else you won't ever come back.
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Jul 19, 2009 13:45
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:
Actually, well done 4-8mm square digital camo looks absolutely brilliant on certain armies, Tau especially. I'm googling like crazy in another browser window but the best I've found is a hexagonal varient, which actually has a lot of potential:  edit: The 2 most sensible ways of doing digi-camo I've seen was sets of card templates & air brush, or 4mm masking tape (which a good model shop will carry) & paintbrush. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Aug 31, 2009 20:32
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Speaking of decals, I bought some Archer surface details off ebay the other day, taking a bit of a chance. They're surface details like weld beads or rivets or treadplate pattern, made of resin printed onto decal paper, so you just cut them to fit where you want, decal them on then paint over. I'm disappointed. For super detailed fine scale modellers they might be perfect, but they're tiny, both scale & sheet size, like a couple of inches wide, maybe 5" long. The detail is also incredibly shallow. I haven't got my vernier caliper on me but it's less than .1mm, I can see that. As I said, probably perfectly to scale, but not what I was expecting.
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Sep 9, 2009 19:52
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EvilMuppet posted:Like the guy above me said you are looking for guitar strings or even bass strings depending on the diameter you are looking for. I've found for really thick pieces it's better to make it yourself out of a combination of plumbers solder & electronics solder, wrap the thin around the thick. A good coat of matt varnish keeps any nasty metals in & helps paint adhere.
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Sep 22, 2009 21:40
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Shachi posted:So I'm looking at getting back into scale modeling. Good man. Shachi posted:I've pretty much settled on getting a Iwata Revolution brush and possibly an Iwata Sprint Jet or Smart Jet compressor. Is this good for starting out? Am I starting at too high of a level. Is there some sort of middle ground I can reach? I have that brush, the CR. It's a brilliant staring point because it's sturdy & does everything a good brush needs to. I'm not sure about that exact compressor but a tank is worth getting. If you run a line from the compressor into the tank, then out through a filter/dryer/regulator to your airbrush you'll basically have the same kit. I'd say that brush is the middle ground, considering cheaper means dropping down to a non-brand or replica brush or single action etc. In the world of crazy-nano-tank-building-men-with-beards brushes easily go up to £300 & are pieced together from different needles/etc to get a certain range of abilities. Enjoy your brush, get stuck in & practice, if/when you feel the brush is holding you back, do some research. Until then, have fun.
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Nov 27, 2009 19:59
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Those compressor prices sound ridiculous, try this one, exactly the same tank I've got, $148 shipped. It comes with a free hose which I had to pay an extra £10 for, regulator built in, it's reasonably quiet too.
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Nov 28, 2009 14:36
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to get exactly what you want in the right size, you're either going to get magic lucky or make it yourself I'm afraid. Comedy option, try lego
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Nov 30, 2009 21:07
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Generally you don't need to glue 100% of the seam, a few spots here & there will be adequate.
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Dec 9, 2009 20:00
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I use a clayshaper to apply modelling putty.
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Dec 11, 2009 21:15
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If all you're after is laying down a basecoat, see if you can find a spraycan in the colour you're after. Much cheaper if that's all you're after.
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Dec 16, 2009 22:20
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Stupid question, have you tried Ebay?
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Feb 25, 2010 22:50
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alcyon posted:Secondly I scoured awoy the original weld lines, and redid all the beads with an epoxy putty (they are about 1.5mm wide) You will tell us how you did this, or you will not leave the forums alive 
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Mar 14, 2010 22:37
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Weld please. 
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Mar 15, 2010 18:13
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alcyon posted:Alright good sir, weld beads it is, huzzah! The welds shown here are classic 'fillet' weld the most recognizable type of weld. Brilliant, thanks. I'll try & have a go in the next couple of weeks. Unfortunately yes I mostly play with GW crap, but I'll try & get some magicsculpt or aves, kneedtite has always been a bit too rubbery for me. Tell you what, 1 more tutorial & Plat is yours. Your choice of subject.
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Mar 16, 2010 17:42
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A few excerpts from your scratchbuilding knowledge would always be welcome. Edit: Painting - do you use an airbrush? If so, some more realistic effects & tips are also welcome.
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Mar 16, 2010 19:55
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I have an Iwata revolution CR, I'm familiar with the salt/hairspray, that was actually quite good fun. I'm happy with acrylics, thinning, basecoating, a little bit of shading etc. Just starting really. I need to get some oils & appropriate thinner & try the streaky rust effect, also the effect where you put spots of different colour over a basecoat & blend them to remove the uniformity. I tried colour modulation after reading a badly written article & tried to go from light down to dark, that really didn't work as well as it should. 
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Mar 16, 2010 22:50
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Hey, sorry for the delay but I've been busy with over-due pregnant wife. I'll buy you plat right now, if you haven't already got it other ways. Right now as in SA secure payment system is open in another tab. edit: and apparently expires after 5 minutes. I promised, if you want it you got it. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 15:37
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After some heated debate behind closed doors I'll be posting my laughable attempts at weld lines in penance.
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Mar 26, 2010 11:23
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Funkydory. Would you consider molding & casting the head, to save yourself some work & make money off fellow nerds? Also, could I get some putty advice please? EModels uk is just down the road from me and have a whole bunch of different putties. What would you suggest for something like weldlines?
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Apr 2, 2010 19:55
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Noted, thanks. I understand the different colours are just colours, not grades/working time etc?
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Apr 2, 2010 22:06
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If you wanted to cast it in 2 parts top/bottom or front/back etc, you could make a 2-part mold for each half, you could make the whole thing 5mm thick or so. Far less resin, bit more work.
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Apr 3, 2010 21:50
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Bobx66 posted:This is just a thought, call it a jumping off point. Get some liquid mask material, the art store should sell it in the acrylic mediums section, put it in a deep enough dish, dip it in from the bottom (opposite the ring) dip it up to the correct height and let it dry. Slightly different came to mind, half-fill the intake with putty & pour in masking fluid up to the right point, then pull the putty out the bottom to drain the excess away. Comedy 2nd option, do you have a record turntable in your house? Centre the intake then with it running at the slowest speed hand paint the line you need.
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Apr 8, 2010 13:36
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm looking at getting an airbrush in the near future but I won't be using it terribly often. What's the longest that I can leave the paints in the vials before I need to dump them? It depends on the paint/thinner and how well the pot seals. If properly sealed & kept upright/in the dark they should keep for weeks.
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Apr 10, 2010 18:04
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If it's a good seal, you might be good. Just keep fastidious notes of your mixes/recipes so you're not relying on a decade-old pot to colour match.
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Apr 11, 2010 08:09
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No Pun Intended posted:Has anyone had any experience with scratchbuilding something in a smaller scale using an larger kit as reference? I've done it the other way round, no reason it can't be done your way. H w big to how small & what model?
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Apr 11, 2010 13:08
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'Proper' 28mm is closer to 1:50 scale I think, lets see: 28mm from ground to eyes, assume 5'6" ish, is 164cm. ratio between 28mm and 1640mm is 58.6. Okay, you're closer to a real scale. The way I'd do this is to buy the 1:32 kit, measure & replicate in plasticard all the flat parts (applying a scaling of 72/32=0.44) & assemble, building up a frame/armature underneath the curved areas. When you're happy with the flats, gently bend plasticard in warm water to replicate the plain curves, putty/sculpt the compound curves. Of course, you could do this in absolutely any scale you wanted, so you could use 58.6/32=0.55 for 'true' 28mm.
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Apr 12, 2010 10:01
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It may interest you to know there is a plugin for Google sketchup that turns a model into papercraft templates. I've not tried it (the plugin) myself but I've heard good things. I've successfully turned papercraft plans into models previously, allowing for material thickness. Also, google sketchup is as close to fun as CAD gets in my little mind.
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Apr 12, 2010 17:09
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Unkempt posted:As for the rust, I was already thinking of some sort of rust coloured paint, then patches of masking, then top coat, then taking off the masking leaving patches of rust, which is pretty much what's going on in that article. Think I'll try it on some plastic card first. the Salt'n'Hairspray method works well here - put down random rust/metal colours, sprinkle salt on top, seal in place with hairspray, spray with topcoat colour, rub/wash the salt off to reveal the rust colour.
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Apr 30, 2010 06:14
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Anyone got a source for Aves sculptie in the UK? I've got Ebay (ripoff) & Antenocitis workshop (always out of stock).
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May 2, 2010 11:02
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Too contribute to the thread, this thing is radio controlled (not mine). This hurts my brain  I know it's a model but the only things that look wrong are the screws on the rear lights & something about the lower damper pins. Otherwise it's a struggle. What scale is it?
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May 6, 2010 19:04
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I read someplace about working with resin wet, i.e. keep spraying it with water when sanding etc to keep the dust down. As I'm going to be poisoning myself trying to cast at some point this interested me. Seems like it'd work & prevent the dust getting everywhere, anyone have an opinion on this?
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May 21, 2010 06:21
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:53 |
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Nebakenezzer posted:Well, my big project is nearly finished. Expect photos soon. In the mean time, random question: a random tip I heard for building say, a airplane, is to spray it with the color that the underlying metal is before painting over it. By doing this, you subtly change the finish on the paint on top, making it more realistic. Good idea/ bad idea? Basecoat colour does affect the final look of the topcoat colour, yes. Priming white or black gives a completely different finish, as does priming with a bright silver. Some of the light that would normally penetrate the topcoat (let's say blue) & be absorbed by the black primer will be reflected by the white (or silver) & shine back through, making the final top colour brighter (or slightly metallic-looking).
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May 27, 2010 18:43
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