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One thing I've been told when trying to color match is that small kits seem darker than the full size article. Not sure exactly why this is; it probably has something to do with the way the brain sees colors (small things reflect less light). I haven't run into this myself yet; have any of you?
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Feb 12, 2010 04:04
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Vaporware posted:The liquid plastic weld type. I think testors has a triangular black bottle with a needle dispenser that they sell. Should be easy to find in a store. If you're willing to wait for shipment order some online, it'll be cheaper. Testors also sells small (~2 oz) bottles of clear brush on cement that works really well too.
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Feb 17, 2010 04:20
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:And as I said, you can't really get that for cheap. What's your price range? What you're looking for is typically at the very least $200. Something that works well and is quiet enough to run indoors usually hits $300 to $400. If you're running it indoors remember that you're going to have a very not-silent ventilation system running in that room too. Right?
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Feb 21, 2010 16:57
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I think most guys doing historical modeling use LHS, the Local Hobby Store. Are the other two acronyms used in the tabletop gaming circles? Friendly Local Game Store, and I'm guessing the second was Friendly Local Model Store. I guess hobby stores aren't friendly places. 
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Feb 27, 2010 04:10
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Indolent Bastard posted:
Halftracks are good too. Put a steamroller on the front and you're in great shape.
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Feb 27, 2010 20:55
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Vaporware posted:There's very little cross-interest between the fantasy types and the realism guys. I mean if it was just techniques then yeah great, but you can't expect every niche to get along. I started on planes as a kid, then did Warhammer for about a decade in high school and college. I took about 8 years off, and now I'm back building Gundams. I pay attention to all of them but post more Gundam stuff than here or Warhammer. One thread would degenerate into a riot way way too fast.
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Mar 18, 2010 23:01
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alcyon posted:
Endorsing both these. The clay tools are great for putty manipulation and the panel scriber is much easier to hold than a needle. Both are cheep, so even if you only use it once or twice ever it's still worth it.
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Mar 19, 2010 15:38
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But you might want to look into those little dull blade and prods that clay sculptors use. Available in any arts&crafts store.
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Xenomrph posted:Awesome, thanks for the tips, I'll pick up a sanding mask next time I'm near Home Depot (or does Wal-Mart or something carry those, too?). Wal-mart might, try looking in the paint section. People sanding paint off houses would want them too. I always get a P100 filter because I use them for other things too but you can probably get away with an N rated filter.
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May 24, 2010 03:58
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crime fighting hog posted:Holy poo poo, thanks Skunkduster. I don't have an allen wrench that small but I can pick one up. Also, the cleaner I use says it doesn't hurt the rubber and plastic rings, but I wouldn't be surprised if that's bullshit. Sometimes it's more true for a splash or other brief exposure but less so for a long soak.
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Jun 24, 2010 14:52
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hentaipanda posted:Colours and airbrushes. Do not forget to spray some of your new colour outside the model first. Some of the previous colour you used will be stuck in the airbrush and the first sprays will be a mix. That being said, spray lighter colours first, darker ones later. I sprayed black first and then white, and was spraying grey for a good while afterwards. And clean it VERY thoroughly between colour switching. But be careful with the previous issue when spraying dark over light. Mask it very well or you'll have a mist of black over white areas. You can get around color contamination by attaching a bottle of thinner between colors and spraying onto a piece of white paper until it's clear. The thinner may get tinted by the drops left in the brush but that's OK for this.
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Jul 5, 2010 14:46
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Ensign Expendable posted:If they're hollow, you can thread some string through the center, hang them up, spray them and have them dry like that. If they're not hollow, get a sewing needle and VERY gently pierce them in a place that will be covered when the model is assembled. Go just deep enough that the piece doesn't rotate freely or blow off the needle.
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Nov 21, 2010 05:53
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laratron posted:Quick q! I've acquired a suitcase of old model train sets and I'd like to give them a clean up. At some point a joke rubber hand was left in the case and has melted over a few of the models and bits of track. Rubbing with a gum eraser will often nondestructively remove sticky stuff from plastic - but it may have been on there long enough to have discolored the train cars. Try it on a less obvious location if you can find one.
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Jan 17, 2011 07:16
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Future Floor Wax is the BOMB for scale modeling: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html The use suggestions start halfway down the page.
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Feb 11, 2011 04:12
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Nebakenezzer posted:There was a thread in ADTRW a while ago that was everything you ever wanted. Those mech guys are just like scale modellers, except that the kits are really really expensive. Well, that and our stuff doesn't really exist so arguments about "authenticity" of markings and paint jobs pretty much never happen.
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Feb 25, 2011 02:54
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who cares posted:I am interested in historical spacecraft and rockets and want to get into building models of them. I'm in an information-gathering stage right now regarding construction and painting. Some people swear by Testor's Metalizer paint but I've never used it personally. EDIT http://www.hobbyplace.com/tools/MetalizerInstructions.php
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Apr 7, 2011 02:43
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Sun Dog posted:I love this idea! Thank you! I'm always saving pizza boxes, too, for the cardboard. (I like to model in cardboard.) What do you do about the grease?  I favor boot trays myself.
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May 10, 2011 12:49
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Sun Dog posted:What's a boot tray? (Barefoot hippie) Plastic tray you can get at Bed Bath and Beyond for putting shoes in when it snows so the don't leave a puddle as the snow melts.
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May 11, 2011 17:20
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Nebakenezzer posted:Like Jack said. (So Jack, how do you quiet down a helicopter rotor anyway? I'm looking at the Dragon model and what comes to me is larger blades = more lift = slower rotation speed?) I'm remembering all the Stealth Fighter and Stealth Bomber models we had in the mid-80s and I'm sure we'll see the same stuff here. Dragon had the first good models of both if I remember right, that 1/144 two-pack.
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May 25, 2011 22:59
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Ensign Expendable posted:The snap together stuff is really boring. You'll get like 10 or 15 pieces for the entire model, and half of them don't even hold together very well, so you have to glue them anyway. I don't think any kit that doesn't cost ridiculous amounts of money will be too difficult to put together. Grab some $20-30 kit that looks interesting and dig in. After your 6th build it'll look like rear end and you'll want to throw it away or redo it but that's part of getting better!
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Jun 12, 2011 21:19
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Ensign Expendable posted:I don't think it would stop at the 6th kit. I look at the stuff I made when I was starting out that I thought turned out pretty well, and it looks terrible compared to what I can do now. At least you can always strip off the paint and redo it to acceptable standards. You're right, it pretty much never stops, I arbitrarily selected that to illustrate the point.
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Jun 12, 2011 21:44
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Vaporware posted:If you're even tangentially interested in robots, don't feel bad buying a gundam. The latest gundams are technical marvels even without paint. Start with a High Grade (HG) and if that's do-able jump immediately to Master Grade (MG). more parts, more details, more fun. They put all sorts of bits in that ONLY the builder will see. It's a lot of fun, and really really different from the poorly fitting boat & plane kits I remember building so many of as a kid. If giant robots are your thing come on over here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3271194
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Jun 13, 2011 03:15
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LP97S posted:Here's a stock picture of the model box I found on ebay after learning I could have saved a few bucks. Don't kick yourself too badly. There's something to be said for getting it NOW while you're enthusiastic and ready to go!
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Jun 20, 2011 22:23
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Well, I suppose if you like food for the visuals but everything you make isn't quite perfect enough you can get some satisfaction from gently caress I can't finish. Though I guess it's no less silly than giant robots and there's a legit fake food industry for dessert trays and displays in restaurants.
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Jul 30, 2011 19:53
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Nebakenezzer posted:I don't know if these techniques translate to giant robots, though. They do. Armor is armor, be it a box with wheels or a 30-foot tall human shape. Some people make their models bright and shiny, like they appear in the source material, while others weather them like they've spent time outside. Neither approach is wrong; it's to your personal taste.
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Aug 3, 2011 21:59
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Nebakenezzer posted:Anyway, it occurred to me that it'd be easy to re-create a model of one of these, right down to the period markings. Then I realized that you could do what the US navy has done (period paint on modern aircraft) to whatever you wanted. I'm thinking a Luftwaffe Eurofighter painted up like a Me109 would be pretty cool. Philadelphia Experiment 2 was a terrible movie but featured an F-117 with Luftwaffe markings, which was more than a little creepy. EDIT: vvvv I endorse the Samurai pens too. Midjack fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Aug 4, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 05:08
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Mystery plane looks like the old Testors Soviet stealth fighter but I don't remember what they called it.
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Oct 8, 2011 23:29
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Morgenthau posted:That's correct! I remembered seeing it as a kid and having my memories blown when I encountered the Italeri rerelease at my local hobby place. I may have to get my paws on that; I didn't know it had been re-released! EDIT: And this one:  was once Monogram's stab at what the F-117 looked like, when we thought it was curvy and called the F-19; looks like they either recolored it afterwards or the F-19 was a recolor of this one. Midjack fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Oct 9, 2011 |
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Oct 9, 2011 17:01
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SkunkDuster posted:This is awesome, thank you! It's a little too late for my poor P-51, but I have an F-104C Starfighter on deck and I think that one will go together a lot better with that information in hand. If I get some confidence after finishing these two models, I'm going to move on to the Hasegawa 1:48 F-15 Eagle, F/A-18 Hornet, or AH-64 Apache. If not, maybe something easier like a F6F Hellcat or F4U Corsair is in my future. Your first one will always look like hell, and as you improve you'll always see thing you could have done better. Learn on a couple of cheapies, then euthanize them and build something nicer.
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Nov 8, 2011 20:16
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Dissolve some extra sprue in a bottle of liquid cement (Testor's clear or Tamiya) and it will make an easy-to-work filler.
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Jan 17, 2012 06:17
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Ensign Expendable posted:People have printers and ebooks, but traditional books still exits. While people will certainly homebrew models, there almost certainly won't be the level of quality or accuracy found in models today. Plus there is stuff you can't do on your own, like photo etch (will probably change) or resin. We already have piracy with plastic and resin models today. As you correctly point out, what will hamper piracy for a while is the resolution of the home printers; for the next several years I expect that a well-made injection-molded part will look better than a home-printed part.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:03
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Ensign Expendable posted:Really, already? I've never heard of anyone posting 3D scans of sprues or something. No, they don't do that yet and won't for a while. Piracy for resin kits is done by recasting, in some cases far outstripping the legitimate supply of kits. For plastic kits it can be as simple as the factory in China that makes them for the legitimate company runs another batch of them on the second shift and markets them in different packaging. Sometimes kits that fail the legitimate QC process are collected and sold as pirate kits. In a few cases, worn out molds are reused with an accompanying drop in quality compared to the legitimate kits.
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Jan 22, 2012 04:30
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Ensign Expendable posted:Oh, I didn't consider resin. Is it just figures, or are there full blown tanks as well? I don't actually do resin, so I don't know what it's capable of. I would guess it would be too flexible to support a very large model. There's pretty much everything done in resin; the first Maus tank model I saw as a kid was a resin kit.
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Jan 22, 2012 05:04
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Come on over to the Gunpla thread too! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3271194
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Feb 26, 2012 19:09
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Blistex posted:That would be battle damage. Maybe they have a REALLY high oxygen content in the ship's atmosphere so it rusts super fast in the hangar.
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Mar 17, 2012 05:01
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Blistex posted:1/2 way through the re-enactment he has to inexplicably bring a severely injured crewman to the bridge instead of sick bay. If I remember right one of the deleted scenes explained that crewman was Scotty's favorite nephew. Oh god don't derail the thread. 
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Apr 24, 2012 01:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:That actually wouldn't be so bad, since you're not dealing with plastic bits that break off as you get them out of the sprue and delicate gluing. I bet they're really expensive though. They usually are expensive and if you don't have the holes lined up precisely and/or have some unexpected roughness on the inside of the holes you will be bending a lot of wire and swearing copiously during assembly.
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Jan 2, 2013 08:33
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Nebakenezzer posted:As a gift to a Professor friend of mine, I made a tank with camouflage for bookshelves. I call it a Bibliotank. That is an excellent novelty camo job.
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Jan 13, 2013 23:53
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Nice. My dad did some model train stuff when I was a kid and seeing that really takes me back. You're working with N scale, yes?
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Feb 23, 2013 03:02
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Manufacturers tend to give color listings for their own brands of paint. Honestly you can just take the instructions with you and eyeball the appropriate colors from another brand, or mix your own if factory colors aren't doing it for you. Lacquer paint dries almost instantly and is durable but is very noxious (spray outside or in a vented fume hood). Acrylic is water-based and easy to clean up, nor is it very toxic (can spray in a well ventilated room) but can take weeks to fully cure and even then is somewhat delicate. Enamel is the compromise between the two extremes that most people settle on. I'd suggest using whatever's easier to get in your area.
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Feb 27, 2013 03:18
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Doc Faustus posted:So before I make a terrible mistake: glue first, or paint first? Or does it just depend on the part of the model? Glue then paint unless there are some detail areas that will be inaccessible after gluing, in which case glue major subassemblies and then paint.
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Mar 1, 2013 03:03
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