|
I am by nature a wargamer, but my recent habit of using scale models and kitbashing them into somewhat representative vehicles for Warhammer 40,000   has led me to want to actually make model kits just for the hell of it. The only thing that bothers me is the intense focus on realism in colouring, since it'd bother me to go for realism and get the colour wrong, so I need reference materials really. I don't have an airbrush, which I really ought to get since you kinda need one for a lot of camo patterns. At the moment, I mostly have fun playing with the Tamiya Weather Master kits and have just started experimenting with Mig pigments. I've found the most useful tools are a variety of files, thin ones, big ones, rounded ones and pointed ones for cleaning up the models and ensuring a good fit with parts. There's nothing worse than a cheap kit that needs tons of alteration to make it fit together or look right. Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jun 6, 2009 |
#
¿
Jun 6, 2009 22:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:04 |
|
|
I've heard that zap-a-gap is good. Does it actually fill gaps or is it just easier to use putty?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2009 22:57
|
|
|
Does anyone know of any companies that make modern US military figures in 1/48 scale? There appear to be endless options in 1/35 but I need them for a diorama with something that's 1/48 and I can only find WW2 figures in that scale.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2009 23:04
|
|
|
Some of the Tamiya kits are really nice but some of their older ones are a bit ropey. I reccomend searching for reviews first - sites like Armorama and so on have really good detailed build reviews.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2009 23:47
|
|
|
This has been converted a bit for use in Warhammer 40,000 but since it is mostly a 1/35 Italeri kit, here seemed a good place to post it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2009 22:31
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:I saw you post the jeeps in the warhammer thread, do you know a US supplier? Lots of model stores (online and offline) should sell them since they're from two of the big scale model companies, and Ebay too possibly. This one is an Italeri M998 Desert Patrol kit, the other one that I've finished is an Academy M1025. Amazon has the M998 but I'm not really familiar with US stores since I'm the other side of the ocean, I'm afraid.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2009 22:43
|
|
|
Powdered Toast Man posted:Games Workshop doesn't really say what the general scale of their figures and vehicles is, do they? 1:35 seems close but I'm not sure it's consistent across all the various armies and units. The troops ought to be 1/56, but they're bulked up and have cartoon proportions. Even 1/35 weapons look tiny in the hands of 40k miniatures. Games Workshop vehicles are a variety of scales even amongst themselves (and some are noticeably a different scale to some of the miniatures. Try to fit ten space marines in a Rhino) and it depends on the kind of vehicle. Generally 1/48 model kits will have similar dimensions to equivalent 40k vehicle types but the details will all be tiny and hatches, handles, weapons and so forth will look miniscule next to 40k models. 1/35 vehicles will be too large next to 40k equivalents but hatches and so forth will look about the right size. Vehicle weapons will still be too small, even at 1/35, for the most part. This L/61 Sturer Emil, for example, is massive in 1/35 and is nearly as long as a 40k Baneblade, from the front of the hull to the back. My personal opinion is that if you're using scale model kits in some kind of wargame that has its own miniatures, you need all your vehicles to be models in that scale otherwise it jars. Anyway, enough about GW :-D I'm not really enjoying working with photo-etch. The detail is gorgeous sometimes, but it's so drat hard to work with, especially since kit instructions all seem to assume you're inherently good at bending tiny bits of brass and sticking them in place without folding them into a tiny package and gluing them to the desk by mistake. I have a lot of the various Tamiya and Academy vehicle accessory sprues - I can't reccomend them enough, there are so many awesome bits! I have a nice Humvee accessory sprue that even has a little dog (a mascot I guess) to be cradled by a gunner.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2009 21:33
|
|
|
EvilMuppet posted:They also have electric motors which I have not seen in a scale model before. Can't remember which company it is, but one of the big model kit companies has space for motors in the hull of almost all their tanks. They don't all come with the motors, but I think motorised mini panzer battles must be really big in Japan or something.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2009 18:58
|
|
|
Elendil004 posted:Any advice on how to try and paint marine digital camo? These would be on 28mm models so not anything crazy scale wise, but still a tough little bit to do I think. Some companies sell vehicles marketed as 28mm, otherwise you want 1/56 (which is 28mm scale, or as close as). You could probably get away with 1/48 as well. You won't find 1/56 (usually) on sites selling scale model kits in the more common scales (ie 1/35, 48 & 72). The only 1/56 stuff I've seen is usually APCs for 28mm skirmish games and isn't as nice-looking as proper scale kits. 1/48 would work, to be honest, and would be a better option for buying your vehicles. This page illustrates the vagaries of scale and shows that 1/48 vehicles and 28mm figures mix well. Academy and Italeri both make 1/48 Blackhawks... I doubt you'll find those in 1/56 scale anywhere.. You can definitely get Bradleys in 1/48... but I'm having trouble finding anything other than humvees and WW2 light vehicles in 1/56 to be honest... Here's a tutorial for doing digital camo in 1/35 that might help...
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2009 22:02
|
|
|
Elendil004 posted:How will 1/48 stack up to 28mm (warhammer) models? I'm doing an entire army in real 28mm us marines but i plan on fielding it in 40k games. the 1/48th will be bigger than normal or smaller than normal? Oh right, I saw your post in the Warhammer thread. This is complicated - GW figures are not any kind of "real" scale (truth be told, nor are any marketed as 28mm, but GW are worst). Actual GW figures will look quite big next to 1/48 vehicles due to the figure's unrealistic proportions and gear - the figures are meant to be around 1/56 but their weapons are bigger than 1/35 scale weapons. Non-GW 28mm figures are almost always better proportioned and will look fine next to 1/48 vehicles (as will GW's own figures truth be told). 1/48 vehicles will also be relatively close to the same size as the GW vehicles they're counting as probably. Details such as hatches and weapons etc will look too small on 1/48 vehicles but this is only in comparison to GW's own vehicles which are insanely out of scale and weirdly proportioned. Different GW vehicles are actually in different scales, believe it or not. 1/48 and 28mm should work fine, but if you want to check then just find the wikipedia articles about vehicles you're interested in and scale the measurements down. Proper scale model kits are mostly fairly accurate, so you can work out what size your model will be, based on the real thing. This is a GW Cadian next to a (broken down) 1/48 Willys Jeep for comparison purposes. 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2009 23:14
|
|
|
I think the RC ones are just low detail kits and are for people who want them for RC more than for being SRS PRO MODELLER types. Far as I can tell, Academy do a 1/48 Abrams, and some other nondescript company does, which will probably be a knock-off of the Academy one (there are quite a few companies that appear to do slightly dodgy copies of big-name company kits, which are fine if you don't care about minor details being a bit off or needing some work) Where are you in the world? If you're in the US, I can see Academy and Kitech 1/48 kits on Ebay. Kitech are one of the dodgy knock-off companies, but their kits do generally build fine unless you're the kind of person who cares about every last detail (ie rivets, every last armour seam) being exactly accurate, and are cheap too.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2009 22:20
|
|
|
Powdered Toast Man posted:Tamiya makes fully detailed (and, for that matter, painted) RC tanks, but they're ridiculously expensive. Honk honk
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2009 16:17
|
|
|
There's a few older cars here if you go through all the pages. Pretty sure I spotted a few 50s sports cars in there.. if they appeal.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2009 22:07
|
|
|
^^^^ Guitar strings are perfect for this. Hey, Kerro - I know it's not American, but does a 1/24 scale Kubelwagen interest you at all? I've got one that I'm unlikely to build any time soon. I've opened the box, but haven't taken any of the bits off the sprue. If you wanted it, I could sell it for a tenner including postage since you're in the UK. I can get a photo of the box if it might tempt you? Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Sep 21, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Sep 21, 2009 19:16
|
|
|
Bass strings are a nightmare to work with. Getting them to stay in place if you need them bent at all is horrible. Regular electric guitar strings are awesome for tubing though.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 22, 2009 22:38
|
|
|
Pagan posted:Besides, not everyone has a propane torch. And a welding kit. And a giant antique tractor. And batteries, and one of the coolest DIY threads. So get out of our little tiny toys thread and go play with your big awesome real toy and let us pretend! Actually, you can get cooking blowtorches really cheaply. I have one because I'm a fancy-cookin' metrosexual.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 23, 2009 22:06
|
|
|
Can anyone suggest any WW2 German armour camo schemes that you can paint convincingly without an airbrush? The usual ones that I've seen all have very soft edges that you'd need an airbrush for, but were there any with a hard edged pattern?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2009 17:39
|
|
|
Pagan posted:In the early part of the war, they had time to do paint jobs in the factory, so you've got very different levels of quality, but scale modelers love airbrushing and drybrushing, so even if the "real thing" wouldn't have looked like that, everyone knows that you drybrush to show weathering! You make a good point about the way scale modelers do things. I really like that overpainted winter camo look. I'd imagine it's hard to make it look good, and not like you just hosed up painting the model though!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2009 20:35
|
|
|
I find that the various review sites online such as Armorama and so forth, or sites that detail builds are really great for telling you what a kit is like before you buy it. That way you'll know if you're buying a Tamiya kit that's been around for decades, or if it's a brand new set of sprues in the box.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2009 18:45
|
|
|
Wibbleman posted:Crazy superdetailed build here I love how he does all that work for parts that aren't even going to be visible, but he'll know it's there. I have heard stories about judges at scale modelling/painting events using dentists mirrors on long handles to peek inside hatches.. but daaaamn. I'm currently spending most of my time with GW stuff, but am sitting around 3/4 done with a Merkava II kit. The ball and chain assembly is driving me absolutely insane, because it just won't stick so I am tempted to leave it off, even though it's a fairly defining feature, unless I can get a way of doing it that works and doesn't drive me mad. Other than that, I've got a 1/24 Kubelwagen kit that I got because it was on sale and I really like Kubelwagens. I keep thinking about starting it because I figured the large size would make it fun but even the box is intimidating... Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Oct 4, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2009 00:09
|
|
|
For people ordering from the UK, I have had very good experiences with Models For Sale.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2009 12:00
|
|
|
No Pun Intended posted:Anyone know anyone who makes aircraft in 1/100 or close to it? Italeri make a few 1/100 aircraft. That's a bit of an odd scale though, isn't it? You can get quite a lot of aircraft in 1/144 scale from various manufacturers, if that would be close enough?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2009 23:32
|
|
|
Shachi posted:Also I'm pretty interested in WH 40k but not the table top game it self. I play the PC games a lot and would be more interested in doing pieces for a diorama more than I would for actual use. Is there anyone else who does this or is this just a travesty? I have spent a lot of money on GW in the last two years. I play so infrequently it isn't even funny - I spend a lot more time painting and gluing than I do gaming, for sure. I enjoy painting (not very well) more than I enjoy the actual gaming really. While their vehicles leave something to be desired next to proper scale models, their actual figures (well the recent ones) are nicer sculpts than a lot of other 28mm stuff. Also, check out this thread
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2009 21:42
|
|
|
ZenMastaT posted:Would any of you know what paint (applied by paintbrush) most closely resembles US Navy gray? My helicopter model thing recommends gunship gray, but some reviews and online galleries show that this is a ridiculous color which is too dark and wrong. Vallejo Model Colour has a selection of greys and I'm certain of them one of them will be a close match for US Navy grey - accurate military colour matches are pretty much their thing.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2009 23:37
|
|
|
So, are 1/72 kits meant to be put together with tweezers? Trying to glue a 3mm gearstick into place is just a nightmare!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2009 21:28
|
|
|
Buy a few modelling magazines to take a look at weathering. Most of them have build/paint reports where they show step by step photos and descriptions which are really good for working out how to attempt fancy techniques like weathering, pre-shading, filters, oil washes and that sort of thing. I don't usually paint each piece before assembly. It's worth reading through the instructions and working out if there will be any visible parts that will be impossible to reach (interiors of a helicopter, for example, if you're going to model it with doors open, or the interior of a cockpit with a clear canopy) once it's made and paint those prior to assembly or, as Pagan says, when that sub-assembly is complete. 1/48 and 1/35 are in some ways more forgiving than 1/72 as far as assembly goes, but as soon as you get a detailed kit, you'll find even tinier parts to represent details that aren't even present on a 1/72 kit. While I'm struggling to glue a tiny gearstick into place, in 1/35 it would have a separate piece for the knob on top, and those windscreen wipers might be photoetch.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2009 23:06
|
|
|
ZenMastaT posted:So what do you guys use to apply modeling putty to gaps? I tried using a Q-Tip but it tends to smear a bit more than I'd like and the cotton can get stuck to the model too. I use a thin rectangle of plasticard, to be honest.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2009 20:19
|
|
|
lilljonas posted:Edit: anyone with experience of making icicles? If you carefully heat up a bit of sprue, you could stretch it when it melts or you could use hot glue since the drips will set if you're careful - I've seen people do that to make drool for 40k 'nid monsters.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2009 23:29
|
|
|
Charity shop near me had a whole bunch of relatively cheap good-as-new model kits for some reason. Guess I'll be busy.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2009 20:37
|
|
|
localized posted:Plus I thought this thread needed a bump. It did, I have been too busy with wargaming miniatures to finish my Merkava So has anyone tried printing their own decals on that decal paper you can get? I'm getting a printer soon and the idea of custom decals is somewhat appealing...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2010 20:54
|
|
|
alcyon posted:- Primer: gives īteethī to a surface, so your paint wonīt flake or rub off. Is REALLY Important. Make sure you wash your kit toroughly before a coat so it will stick better. I prefer the Japanese brand Mr.Hobby 1200 in rattlecans as primer (expensive but truly superior and awesome). A cheap alternative would be Krylon. I have never used it but some of my Amercan friends love it. ymmv. Donīt EVER use gesso like those warham ītards cos it obscures detail. I've seen a lot of modelling magazines talk about using car body spray as primer but I've never tried it myself. It seems like a possibly good plan, since it comes in every colour you could ever want.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2010 00:13
|
|
|
alcyon posted:Ma.K sex I like your maschine a lot. I found the Ma.K thing really confusing until a friend explained it to me, about how there were the drawings, then one line, now some more lines and scratchbuilding becoming canon kits.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2010 20:52
|
|
|
a couple of companies sell sprues of weld beads, believe it or not. Edit - yours look really nice though. And re. your technique for making a rough looking surface - have you tried using Mr Surfacer? I've heard a few friends talk about it in glowing terms. Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Mar 15, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2010 20:27
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:So I've been looking through SA, and I found that there are like three or four other threads dedicated to modeling one thing or another. Do you think unifying all these threads is a good idea? Probably not. Whatever was the most popular would drown out the rest, so if gundam modellers were more prolific posters, the thread would end up being a de facto gundam model thread until someone started a separate scale modelling thread like this one...
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2010 20:25
|
|
|
Popete posted:Was really excited about this German Stug tank model I was building. Was coming together just perfect. Tell I was almost done and realized I put the cannon mounting in upside down, there was no way to fix this without completely tearing the whole thing apart Tear out the cannon mount but leave everything else and then make it some kind of wreck diorama?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2010 00:16
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Also, could I get some putty advice please? EModels uk is just down the road from me and have a whole bunch of different putties. What would you suggest for something like weldlines? If you're used to greenstuff, then milliput (as an example) handles really differently (particularly when you add water) so it's worth just messing around with whatever you get to see how it works, how it dries etc, before using it on any models. I tried milliput after greenstuff and was somewhat startled that it was very different.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2010 21:25
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:I know I can't handpaint it neatly enough. And it's a detail that is extremely visible, so it should look right. Does anybody have any ideas? If you can't paint that neatly, can you draw that neatly? Not sure how fine the tip is (or how big the engine is), but you can get silver gundam markers that might work?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2010 22:52
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Even though its not true "assemble from a kit" here is a few things I do with model railroading... Tell me more. Do you buy the trains unpainted but assembled and just paint/detail them or are they partially made, or ready-painted but undetailed or what?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 21, 2010 22:31
|
|
|
For adding some detail to a model that I'm planning, has anyone seen any 1/72 modern US military figures that are in poses suitable for looking like they're fast-roping out of a helicopter?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2010 17:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 14:04 |
|
|
Unkempt posted:A question: I saw a really good article somewhere about painting rusty metal textures, but I can't find it now. Anyone know of something like that? Try this
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2010 20:06
|
|