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Wow, that looks awesome. I'm following this thread just to see what everyone else is doing. I'm terrified just contemplating trying to work with that much transparent plastic. I'd mess it up in a second 
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Jan 25, 2010 09:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Trains More trains please! When I am old and retired all of my money will be going towards this ridiculously expensive hobby. 
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Apr 17, 2010 09:08
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EvilMuppet posted:Some shading and highlighting would do wonders for this, at the moment it looks like a toy. Even just blacklining the panels with ink and some light drybrushing would be good. I was thinking exactly this. Would make it really come to life. Good job with the rest of it though. The joins and everything look good
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May 2, 2010 04:53
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Ensign Expendable posted:I also practiced my weathering/wear and tear/battle damage. I think it looks pretty good. There are still a few too many shiny bits. Though maybe that's just the camera?
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May 30, 2010 05:02
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I've brushed painted all my life (only just getting backing into modelling), but thanks to some spare cash I can finally get an airbrush. I've already bought a small compressor (like this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Start-Stop-Air-Brush-Compressor-Airbrush-Holder-Kit-Art-Make-Up-Free-Hose/140903827581). Now I need an airbrush and probably a hose. Does this airbrush look any good? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190517807516?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Cars and planes is what I'll be painting mostly. Would that airbrush be fine with both acrylic and enamel paints? Unfortunately the more talked about airbrush brands (paasche etc) don't seem to be readily available here in Australia, but there seems to be many cheap and cheerful models on ebay like the one above, so I'm hoping it will be ok. Remember too that prices here are insanely expensive for anything hobby related. While I've supported my local hobby shop for most kits and small tools, I just can't afford to pay ~$350 for a small air compressor and $150 for an airbrush, so my choices are realistically limited to online/ebay.
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Oct 2, 2013 12:37
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Thanks heaps for the info. Based on that I'll look around some more for a reputable brand. If I get anything made by Iwata I should be ok?
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Oct 2, 2013 23:44
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The weathering overall looks very nice. The front section in particular is extremely convincing.
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Oct 6, 2013 13:27
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Congratulations! Can you provide pictures and/or a description of how you did it?
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Oct 9, 2013 07:02
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I'll be picking up an Iwata revolution this afternoon thanks to recommendations in this thread. I've only half-completed one model, but painting with brushes was such a pain I'm willing to take a gamble. I also got the brush for a pretty good price - $150aus. The local hobby store wanted $350+ Compressor for $90 from eBay. One of the little ones with a tank. I don't yet have a cleaning pot but hopefully a jar with a hole in the lid will be ok. How important is ventilation when spraying with acrylics? I've watched a few YouTube videos and most people don't seem to have any sort of ventilation. I assume it's less bad for you than spray cans, but is a cracked window enough to keep me out of strife?
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Oct 11, 2013 07:37
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krushgroove posted:I do have a question though, for the car modelers: I know someone recently posted how they got a nice gloss finish using acrylics, but do most car modelers use Tamiya paints pretty much? And those are enamels, right? What sort of thinner is it, does anyone know specifically - maybe cellulose thinner? Tamiya makes both acrylics and enamels. I've only ever used their acrylics and they are quite good. I have a few car models waiting to be built, but I'm waiting till I know how to get a decent gloss finish. From my (pretty limited) understanding, most brands of paints are all good, the key is to not mix them with other brands, use the same brand of thinner as the paint you are using etc. I just chose Tamiya since they seemed to be readily available in Australia compared to everything else.
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Oct 22, 2013 09:53
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This might be my memory failing, but was there a goon-made app (for iOS or Android) that let you look up and convert paint codes for all manufacturers?
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Oct 26, 2013 23:24
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Wow, that looks so good. Congrats. I can only hope I can get a paint job that shiny on the 86 I keep putting off starting...
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Dec 4, 2013 11:48
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I think you've done a great job! I'm still working on my Airfix mustang, and if it turns out as good as that I'll be very pleased.
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Jun 6, 2014 12:09
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That's some great advice about practicing on paper. I've never done it before and just went straight to the models. Are there any good guides with images to show what techniques you should be aiming for on paper?
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Nov 8, 2014 22:06
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Amazing photos of the models made for blade runner: http://m.imgur.com/a/mv8qf
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Mar 18, 2015 08:54
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Sauer posted:A large number of my supplies come from hobby shops in Australia. Which Australian online stores would you recommend? I'm in Australia but am yet to find a store with decent range and reasonable shipping costs.
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Jun 25, 2015 13:55
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Great stuff! I love the little blue door. And it really does tie the building into the scene a lot more.
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Jul 25, 2015 22:13
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I've heard of people using PVA glue heavily diluted with water in a spray bottle.
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Oct 17, 2015 03:50
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N17R4M posted:Can any train wizards confirm this is a decoder chip? Yep, almost certainly a retrofitted decoder.
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Jan 18, 2016 03:26
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It makes me sad there isn't more car stuff on here so I thought I'd post some WIP stuff. Note that I have only just started with the hobby, having botched a terrible airfix plane (don't remember what it was) and did a passable job on the 1:72 Airfix P71 Mustang as my entry points. Painting is still very hard but I think I'm slowly getting better. Not looking forward to doing the actual shell and trying to get a blemish-free glossy coat, especially since I can't just weather over it Tamiya Fiat Abarth 695 I've mixed up a nice body colour and done the main chassis/floor pans, plus engine and primary suspension components. Some small interior bits next, then the dreaded shell...        Ugh I need to redo those horrible exhaust pipe holes. Should I buy a pin vice and put real holes in them or just paint the whole end black? Also whats the consensus on weathering cars? I tried putting some very light oil stains/shading on the transmission and block but nothing too crazy. And I've left the suspension pretty much factory-fresh. I think they look a bit too sterile being completely perfect.
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Mar 2, 2016 13:53
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For something a bit different I picked up a little takoyaki stand diorama kit from Tokyu Hands on a recent trip to Japan. You're provided with some small wood pieces, mostly pre cut, decorations, some poorly printed paper or flags and things, a couple of pre-made diorama pieces, and what supposedly is the assembly instructions. With a little help from google translate, I stumbled through most of the steps - this isn't like a typical kit with nice illustrations and language independent symbols; it's mostly text and all in Japanese. You're expected to have quite a few parts on hand as well - tooth picks for the window bars, skewers for the flag pole etc. It's coming along pretty well so far, but it seems the tricky parts are in making all the tiny decorations and pieces of food - for that you get a piece of packing styrofoam which you cut into tiny cubes (tofu?), spheres (onions) and eggs. Thankfully there are some spheres of foam already provided for the takoyaki but they need to be halved first. Not looking forward to that. It's quite an enjoyable build and something that's a bit different, where I'm not really worried about screwing it up.         
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May 22, 2016 14:30
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Finished the little Takoyaki stand. It was fun doing all the little accessories and landscaping, and nice that it came with all the landscaping stuff.  They have all sorts of kits available at http://www.billy-doll.co.jp but I haven't ordered from there, not sure if they ship overseas.
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Jun 16, 2016 04:40
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Are metal transfers any good? I tried to apply some that came with a tamiya fiat abarth and the adhesive was stronger on the outside of the transfer than the inside, so I had a hell of a time getting them to stick. Also managed to loose one only to find it stuck to my arm 6 hours later.
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Feb 28, 2017 13:27
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I've used pva for small pieces. Worked out ok but no idea how durable it would be
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Mar 18, 2017 12:28
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That looks fantastic. What did you use for the silver metal on the prop? I've only ever used Tamiya acrylics and the metallic pigments are so big they look like garbage at 1:72
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Jul 10, 2017 08:50
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Crotch Fruit posted:I am trying to get my my old HO trains set running again after 20 years in storage. Most of my track is Bachman EZ track with the black roadbed, I believe the rails are "steel alloy", I purchased a power pack from eBay and my trains will not run on the steel alloy track. I have a few pieces of Atlas track with a brassy appearance and my trains run much better on the brass track so I am certain the EZ track is part of the problem. Is there a good way to clean the track preferably without purchasing a special tool? They almost certainly have completely oxidised. You can get special abrasive blocks to clean and polish the tops of the rails. If you are going to be running the choo choos for a while this is probably a useful investment. Otherwise any kind of mild abrasive that won't leave a residue would be fine. Very fine sand paper, a scotchbrite pad, even a pencil eraser would probably work. Crotch Fruit posted:The next problem I have is the power pack. . . I bought an MRC 1300 for $10 on eBay as "working" and it only outputs a constant 9v to the rails, the train runs at the same speed with the throttle set for stop or full speed, the stop function doesn't work. I was going to attempt to open the power pack to see if there is anything serviceable inside, but it uses security screws which would require either destructive disassembly or $7 on AliExpress. Does this sound like a type of issue that might be repairable? If I do go for a new power pack, are there any brands to avoid in the dirt cheap range? Depends how handy you are with electronics. No idea how complex these things are but I doubt they were using SMDs or anything, and I assume it would all be analogue. If you can get it open, some folks in the magic blue smoke forums could probably help. Alternatively just buy something different.
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Aug 20, 2017 07:18
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Also gotta remind yourself this can be a very cheap hobby, and typical plastic kits form a very small proportion of the overall cost. So grab a couple of cheaper kits and go nuts. I was in a very similar situation (got a few nice car kits as a gift) and started with this strategy but just ended up trying to perfect even my beginner crappy kits, but I think that’s just my personal hang ups and I assume most people wouldn’t fall into the same trap. I still haven’t started on the “nice” kits. That was 5 years ago.... poo poo. Anyway good luck, have fun! It can be a dumb cheap, relaxing little hobby, but it can take some effort to stay in that mindset. Like anything else really.
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Jan 28, 2018 11:46
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We have a very small house so my collection/workspace is limited, but this old writing desk serves its job pretty well. I put the compressor in the bottom cupboard which makes it a lot quieter when running. Air and power are run in from the back/top so I can shut the doors. It was critical I had a space I could close up because our loving cats love to run off with sub-assemblies and play with them downstairs. I nearly lost the exhaust system for the fiat that way. Not pictured is the diy extraction fan made from a bathroom fan I found on the side of the road.   
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Feb 26, 2018 10:42
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Symetrique posted:Wow, I have a name, you know Thanks for posting, this is real good. Wish I had known some of those things when I first got my airbrush.
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Nov 4, 2018 09:43
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I was having a hell of a time with some Tamiya decals tearing on some 1/24 cars. Turns out the hot water from my tap wasn’t hot enough - using 60 degree c water from the kettle resulted in way faster softening and less tearing. Still they are a huge pain in the arse. Need to get some less strong mark fit.
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Dec 14, 2018 14:33
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Southern Heel posted:The copper tape is a power bus, from which everything takes AC power. A digital signal is sent over this bus, and there are chips inside each locomotive and point motor which listen for commands specific to them and convert to DC using a rectifier. The immediate effect is much smoother control, because there is full power to the chips at all time. It also means you can do lots of interesting things with speed curves, braking, lights, sound and smoke - but you can also hook it up to the PC via USB or Wifi for automated control. My layout is a bit small for that, but on a larger layout it would be very useful if you were operating alone. Much like a self-driving car you can set the rules for the layout so you can do whatever you want, while th trains move around you.
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Dec 30, 2018 21:31
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I'm super pissed. I spent ages getting a reasonable gloss coat on this body, airbrushing with tamiya gloss clear acrylic. There was still heaps of orange peel but it was at a point where I was happy. It had cured for a day, then I masked up the body with tamiya masking tape, so I could paint the window trim. When I took the masking tape off, I think it has taken the gloss coat with it.  What could I have done to prevent this from happening? The trim was painted with flat black but I think ill just sand back the main body a bit and hit it with gloss all over again. Here is the rest of the tub so this isn't just whinging:    
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Feb 3, 2019 11:25
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Scored myself a tamiya Sauber kit today from the hoarders hovel for $60 aud. That’s exactly half of what the cheapest price I can find it on eBay. The decals are a little yellowed but I think I’ll live with it really. What’s the hoarders hovel? Gumtree? Also post some pics of your stratos! I’ve got a hasegawa one in my queue.
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Feb 6, 2019 11:42
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Awesome idea! For the upholstery I have heard of people spraying paint deliberately too far from the model so that it gets all textured. Never tried it myself though.
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Mar 1, 2019 09:33
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Heads up for any Australians in the thread. BNA model world has started stocking zero paints again which is excellent news if you like painting car models. For quite a long time they haven’t had them due to I guess their volatile nature so the only place you could get them was spot models with $100 postage Oh one of the YouTube channels I follow (https://www.youtube.com/user/xrcflash) seems to exclusively use them. Their cars always look amazing. Might order some and see what it’s like. Have you used them much?
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Mar 22, 2019 07:09
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Velius posted:I’m working on my first model, and have a painting question. I’ve decided to be too ambitious and tackle the 1/350 King George V from Tamiya. I’m having two issues so far. First I’m getting pretty bad lapping on the hull due to my brush strokes. This is probably a practice makes perfect thing, and I’m wondering if I should sand the existing paint, wipe with a damp towel, dry, and repost with more care removing excess paint? The other thing is I’ve got some oil or sheen on the guns that’s lasted through two coats of paint. I primed them along with the hull with Tamiya grey primer, but didn’t wash with soap or anything after the primer layer. I’m especially interested in this because I’ve decided to try and paint the other little parts while still on the sprue so I have a lot of little part painting in the future and I’d like to do it right if possible. I found the Tamiya retarder to work really well for reducing visible brush strokes. Might have just been because it was really hot and dry here but might be worth trying out.
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May 14, 2019 04:07
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I just put a coat of matt varnish on my zero and it's come out really weird. It looks like a stretch mark pattern where the clear coat looks like it's split before it's properly dried? I didn't run into this when I put the same clear coat on my kubelwagen (tamiya TS-80) Is this because of surface contaminant? Or did I put down too thick a coat? I have no idea about the answer to your question, but I think this looks like a pretty neat weathering effect, like the wing has been dented or something. Haven't seen anything like that before.
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May 22, 2019 00:27
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Nice job getting those looking so good without an airbrush! Very impressive. Those decals too... that’s the main reason I stay away from track cars and mostly do street stuff.
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Jun 10, 2019 08:53
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Just finished a Tamiya MX-5 kit. Not the best kit, a lot of fitment issues that can really only be found once the model is together so I couldn't do much about them but try and hide them. The moulds seemed pretty tired for the body and one sprue, but another sprue was much better? idk. The windscreen also didn't remotely fit in the shell and needed a lot of persuasion and is probably the worst part. Slowly getting better at putting a gloss into the colour coat, and I was very happy with the masking on the runners. I need to find better polishing compound. The Tamiya stuff is just too coarse, so I really only polished it with car polish and then furniture wax.    Got a new 60mm lens which made it a bit easier to take photos, but its still a pain without proper lighting.
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Jun 17, 2019 13:30
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Finished the Bandai x-wing. I’m happy with it for my first non-car model. Weathering it was a lot of fun. The decals were a huge pain though, found it very difficult to get them to conform without tearing or breaking. Thankfully the kit comes with a spare canopy decal but it’s still pretty bad.   
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Nov 25, 2019 10:16
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