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Iron Crowned posted:I go to the grocery store in the morning when they're restocking and take one of their empty boxes. They don't care, because it's just going to the compactor anyway, but also ask anyway, because it's the nice thing to do. At home, I then break it down into a flat piece of card board, then I take it out to the nearest patch of grass and spray my models on it. Painting outside on my patio has been the way I've been doing it but where it live it's basically 110°+ F every day so my paint is literally drying before it hits model and I'm getting awful orange peeling from it. Just once I'd like to paint in a nice temperature controlled environment. I just don't want to be living in lacquer fumes lol
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Sep 2, 2020 22:16
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Man I am so glad I am only into car modelling.
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Sep 3, 2020 17:53
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Immolat1on posted:I lost a piece. Don't give up. Get down there in the carpet with a flashlight. You are Sherlock Holmes, that piece of your model is the big clue to unravel the mystery. I lost a tail light lens for an R32 Skyline in the carpet recently after it went flying from my tweezers. A clear part in a thick shag carpet. It took me 2 days, but I was able to find it. The model would have looked like total rear end without it even if I was able to cobble together some kind of makeshift tail light.
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Oct 1, 2020 07:02
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I am building a Tamiya Lotus Super 7 and it comes with seatbelts. I've never done seatbelts before so I'm a little confused how it works since all the instructions say is "cut them out". They appear to be the same or similar to water slide decal material except they are on a thicker backing. I'm pretty sure I don't take them off the backing though, I think that gives them a little bit of thickness. But maybe I'm wrong and I need to remove them from the backing? I'm also pretty sure I don't put them in water. I do have to fold them over the seats though so maybe I do wet them? Help lol
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Feb 28, 2021 04:08
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I paint my car models almost exclusively with Tamiya Spray cans. However, I kind of want to try doing an all acrylic build since I have tons of jars of Tamiya acrylics in various colors and I might as well use them through the airbrush. I've never done it before so I'm wondering if acrylics are even any good to use on the body of a car? I'm also wondering how well Tamiya acrylic clear works as a clearcoat for a car because being acrylic its probably really soft and I'm not sure how well it would take to sanding and polishing?
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Mar 11, 2021 18:47
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Does anyone know if there any scale model guns out there? I'm looking for something that needs assembly and painting. The only ones I've been able to find are already assembled.
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Mar 28, 2021 21:36
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Molentik posted:Here is one in 1/3rd scale. That's exactly what I was looking for thanks! I was looking for something in that scale as I don't want it to be mistaken for the real thing.
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Mar 29, 2021 00:44
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Arquinsiel posted:A 1:1 Mauser C-96 kit exists but is extremely difficult to get for obvious reasons. I'm in the US so it's probably easier for me to get the real thing lol
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Mar 29, 2021 00:44
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Does anyone know if Trumpeter makes any other 1:3 scale guns besides the M16? I would love to do a Garand model or Thompson Submachine gun. I don't want a 1:1 model I don't want it mistaken for the real thing.
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Mar 29, 2021 20:50
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I've been interested in getting some Vallejo acrylic polyurethane surface primer. Especially because they offer it in black and while I prefer Tamiya primer it only comes in white and grey. Does anyone have any experience with the Vallejo? Is it ok to use Lacquer paint on top of it? I only do car models and I tend to use Tamiya spray cans which are lacquers.
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Apr 4, 2021 21:19
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SoylentCola posted:A lot of you are distressingly good at this. Please be more poo poo. I am very poo poo at modelling as evidenced by the VW Beetle I'm working on with a splotchy paint job. drat el cheapo airbrush.
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Apr 16, 2021 21:35
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Plus a lot of have grown our modelling skills in quarantine. I mean for goons quarantine started long before 2020 but we had more of an excuse to partake in loner hobbies this past year.
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Apr 18, 2021 07:09
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SkunkDuster posted:For those of you who have used MIG or AK black masking putty, how does it compare to blue-tack or Silly Putty? Just wondering if it worth shelling out 20 bucks for a little tin of the stuff. I can't speak for any of these products but I've had good luck with Vallejo liquid mask.
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May 4, 2021 01:54
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Hey folks if you haven't tried UV glue yet I would totally recommend it. Especially for clear parts. You can apply it where you need it and you basically have as much time to position the part as you want since it doesn't dry until you hit it with the light. And when you do, it dries super fast like 15 seconds and it dries hard as a rock. I only do car models but it has made windshields and windows much easier to glue in place. You can get it on Amazon and it's a little pricey but it should last quite a long time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQVH9TR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9EEEH5WFMVT6VH1NP9Q9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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May 18, 2021 01:18
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Does anyone know any good El cheapo black primers either acrylic or lacquer based? I do car models and the chassis I usually just paint with black primer since it's not an area I look at much plus it simulates undercoating pretty well. I was using Citadels black primer spray but it's pretty expensive. And I haven't heard anything good about Vallejo acrylic based black primer so I was wondering if there was anything else out there that would work well.
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May 21, 2021 02:27
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Whats a good thinner to use for Tamiya putty? I have Tamiya lacquer thinner would that work?
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May 21, 2021 20:13
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Can anyone recommend a decent airbrush in the $60-80 range? Just the airbrush itself I already have a compressor. Preferably with like a .4 or .5 needle. I only do car models and it's mostly for acrylic paints but I've been dabbling in alclad lacquers lately.
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Jun 14, 2021 23:55
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I have an all in one airbrush it's the "No-Name" brand. Its really not as cumbersome as it looks to use and I don't really notice any shaking from it when it's on. I only use it for airbrushing acrylics on surfaces that don't need to be glass smooth because try as I might I don't get that smooth of a finish with it. But it definitely beats brushing acrylics. I'd say it's worth it for what it costs but I wouldn't do a car body with it.
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Jun 21, 2021 23:30
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punishedkissinger posted:What does everyone use for bushes? My Tamiya brushes are by far my favorite. I highly recommend.
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Jul 2, 2021 22:02
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My mind read that as brushes. Well I hope that's what you meant and I answered your question 😊
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Jul 2, 2021 23:25
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mllaneza posted:I can't find which modelling thread recommended Testors ELO for stripping plastic models, so I'm crossposting it. That stuff is magic. I sloshed some over a couple of parts I needed to re-paint and in about 10 minutes the paint and primer were basically floating free of the plastic part. The toothbrush wasn't used for scrubbing, but just to wipe the old paint off. Do you know if it works on Tamiya spray lacquers? I have a couple car bodies that I did really bad paint jobs on and I can't find anything good to strip them with.
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Jul 5, 2021 02:20
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:After not buying any kits since January and getting down to one half finished kit in the stash I thought I'd add something new into the rotation and it is below Hey I just got this kit too. Its typical amazing Tamiya quality. I've only done the engine so far. I did the valve cover in Alclad chrome which probably isn't how they came from the factory but I don't care. I'm really tempted to try to fit some custom (but still period correct) wheels on it because the only thing I really don't like about the 240Z is the wheel design and skinny tires. What are you going to paint the body with?
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Jul 22, 2021 07:36
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Pierzak posted:Stop making me want to lick wet paint. Was that a spray can? That's incredibly smooth.
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Jul 22, 2021 23:11
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:The finish of one project and the beginning of another. I managed to get the Nissian fairlady 240ZG finished last night and I quite like how it turned out. The paint work isn't perfectly shiny but I think it fits the time period when the car first came out so it stays. It's also my first time polishing tamiya spray without clear coating it first. The pics are below: That 240Z looks great. I haven't made much progress on mine. Part of the reason is because I got a set of Watanabe wheels from Fujimi and the rears are WIDE. Like it's going to take some serious modification to the chassis to make them fit and I'm not sure how well I'll be able to do it and I don't want to completely ruin the kit. Maybe I'll just stick with the stock wheels for now. I'll post up some pics when I get a chance.
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Aug 2, 2021 07:18
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Seconding purple degreaser for stripping chrome. In most cases it completely dissolves it in about 15 mins. Edit: oven cleaner works really well too but I think it might be more harsh on the plastic.
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Aug 30, 2021 08:38
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grassy gnoll posted:I forget the brand, but it's basically liquid latex with some bright dye in it so you don't miss any when you scrape it off. If there's good water-based stuff out there, I'll change in a heartbeat. I'm not sure if its water based but Vallejo liquid mask doesn't have any smell that I can remember and it works really well.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:53
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So it's my bday and I decided to splurge and do my first larger scale model: I can't tell if it looks like it will be easier or harder than the typical 1/24 scale models I'm used to.
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Sep 17, 2021 23:29
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Pierzak posted:So, how do you clean an airbrush if that happens and the airbrush isn't cheap enough to just chuck into trash and buy a new one? I'm guessing hardware store lacquer thinner or acetone would probably work well.
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Sep 26, 2021 23:30
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Hey folks so I finally picked got myself a real airbrush compressor today. It's a a "No Name" brand (that's the name of the brand) and it has an air tank connected to the compressor itself. So my question is, I should probably empty the air out of the tank when I'm done using it right? And if so can anyone tell me how? The directions are total crap for this compression. On the side is what looks like a valve to let air out but I'm not sure how it works. Do I pull on the ring?  And on the bottom of the tank is what looks a plug that I could turn to let the air out. I think it just twists off  I'm a bit nervous to touch either of these things with a bunch of air still in the tank. Should I even bother? Of course I could just let the air out with the airbrush itself but it takes forever.
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Oct 3, 2021 04:30
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Charliegrs posted:Hey folks so I finally picked got myself a real airbrush compressor today. It's a a "No Name" brand (that's the name of the brand) and it has an air tank connected to the compressor itself. So my question is, I should probably empty the air out of the tank when I'm done using it right? And if so can anyone tell me how? The directions are total crap for this compression. Nevermind I figured it out. I pulled the ring on the red plug and it bled the air out. It was loud as hell. Anyway I figured I'd let you all know in case anyone else was wondering.
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Oct 3, 2021 04:45
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Slugworth posted:Bought a cheap Revell VW Beetle kit on a whim, and it's quite an obnoxious kit. The sprues are lettered, but the instructions ignore that fact, and just call out pieces by their number. Which, ok, fine, then surely the parts will all be sequential on the sprues, right? No? Part numbers are just dispersed randomly throughout every sprue? I need to check every single sprue every single time I need to find a part? The Tamiya Beetle kit is a dream to build and I don't think it's that much more expensive.
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Oct 6, 2021 19:21
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I do only car models and mainly I've painted the bodies with Tamiya Spray cans, which are lacquer paints. I've recently got into airbrushing and I've started experimenting with Tamiya lacquers paints that come in the jars. I've used Tamiya acrylic jars for a long time but not for the body but mostly other things like suspension and interior bits. My question is, do the acrylics work well through an airbrush for painting the body? Is there any noticeable difference between them and the lacquer paints? I don't have very good ventilation in my apartment so I'd prefer to use the acrylics if I can as the lacquers are getting me high as a kite. I know Tamiya acrylics aren't "true" acrylics since they are solvent based and not water based but they still seem to have way less fumes.
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Oct 14, 2021 21:21
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nitsuga posted:934 is well under way now, but I really don’t like painting the rubber bits on the car’s body. Some of it went well with the paint marker, some didn’t. I’ve been able to scrape most of the splotches thankfully. Will do more and try smoothing things out with a mini brush. Are you painting the black trim freehand? That might be why the line isn't smooth. I did a similar 911 model but I masked off the area with tape and got a very clean trim line. You might want to get some Tamiya tape it's safe to put over painted surfaces.
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Oct 15, 2021 01:23
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I've done a number of Revell car models and never really had any issues with the decals. But the decals for this 70 Plymouth AAR Cuda model I'm working on have some weird kind of issue with the glue. I cut them out, dunked them in some water and after about 10 seconds the glue started to coagulate and turn yellow. I applied the decals on the body anyway and I was able to rub away most of this weird yellow glue but there was some on the underside of the decal that I couldnt remove and now it's dried and looks ugly as hell. This is pre clear coat:  Anyone know why it's doing this? Maybe the kit has been sitting around for a long time and they are just old decals. There's probably nothing I can do about these decals but in the future is there anything I can do about this?
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Oct 16, 2021 00:43
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Has anyone had any issues putting Tamiya tape over Alclad chrome or their other metallic lacquers? I need to mask off an area that has Alclad on it but I'm afraid I'll mess it up with the tape since I don't think it's the most durable paint around.
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Oct 19, 2021 02:31
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Raskolnikov38 posted:put a protective clear coat layer on top of it before masking I was thinking this and I have Alclad Aqua Gloss to cover it with. My issue is the area that I have to mask off will also get a different type of Alclad lacquer over it so is it safe to put Alclad lacquer over Aqua Gloss?
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Oct 19, 2021 05:14
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So Vallejo liquid mask gets pretty gummy in the spout which makes it hard to dispense. So that causes me to just squeeze it harder. Which causes this to happen:  Oops. The cool thing is it's super easy to clean. Just give it like 15 minutes to solidify and then just roll it with your hand and it becomes a ball of sticky nastiness.
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Oct 19, 2021 07:00
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Hi folks. I'm still trying to get this whole wet sanding and polishing thing down on my 70 Plymouth AAR Cuda model. I painted it with Tamiya LP-7 Pure Red and then clearcoated it with Alclad Gloss clear. I wet sanded it with 3000 grit sanding sponge, then used Meguiars compound followed by Tamiya fine and then finish polish. The result was... Good but not great. It's pretty smooth but not as smooth as I was hoping for but the main issue is I can still see scratches in the clear. You can kind of see them in the reflection in these images:   I think the issue is I should have kept wet sanding after using the 3000 grit and worked down to something like 8000 grit? Also this was my first time using an airbrush so I think my clear coat wasn't laid down as smooth as it should have been.
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Oct 20, 2021 23:51
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I've color mixed a few times with pretty good success but it was mainly because it was late at night and I couldn't just head over to the local hobby store and get the color I needed. I've mixed up various Tamiya acrylics to make a perfect tan leather color for the interior of a Ferrari before. One thing I learned is to mix up a lot more than I think I need because I'll never be able to get those ratios right to reproduce the color exactly should I need more in the future.
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Nov 2, 2021 07:44
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punishedkissinger posted:my Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 works great with minimal shaking. It does need to be thinned at least 50/50 with Mr Color Levelling thinner though. Mr Color leveling thinner is the best stuff ever. I thin almost anything that isn't water based with it. Tamiya acrylic, Tamiya lacquers, Mr Hobby paint, AK paints, etc. It just works beautifully and really does level nice.
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Dec 22, 2021 20:43
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