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MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Wow, they really captured the likeness of the pilot and his seat in the instructions!

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MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

I use an Ikea halogen for spot lighting, a flourescent strip for main lighting, and a long winding strip of leds to make it nice and bright for my old peepers. And a standard ceiling boob for overall room light.
The halogen is good for being aimable from different directions. Gives some better depth to small parts that way.

The only issue I have is when using uv curing resin. There's some.uv from one of the sources, so the resin very slowly gets thicker. Usually not a problem unless I have a puddle of the stuff I'm working with.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

FrozenVent posted:

Airbrush propelled a tiny landing gear strut into the aether.

It’s going to turn up when I’m finishing the model uh?

Or two months after you box it up and sadly put it on the unfinished pile.

By then you'll have forgotten which kit it was from.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Arquinsiel posted:

For those of us who can't do the maths, what's the turning radius of the F15?

Laden or unladen?

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Or you can use a clear barrier coat like Future. Or whatever it's called these days.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Daco does some really nice Belgian decals. Especially for those Tiger Meet specials. I got an F16 way back in the 90s that was a Revell kit, but the model quality was iffy, so I put them on a Hasegawa kit. I did have to touch up a couple of spots with some black paint, but I liked the way it turned out.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Yes. Because it being illegal in some countries (notably Germany, for some reason no doubt due to political correctness) to sell anything with a swastika.

"BuT MaH MeSsErScHmItTs!"

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

And, besides the cut down the middle swastika parts or the arms and center piece swastikas, you can also just buy decal sheets with nothing but swastikas for various planes and years of the war.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

I sprang for a pair of godhands and Holy crap is there a difference!

The just slide through the plastic with ease, and cut super close. I'm going to take good care of these, they go back in the sleeve after every use.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

The Skyraider is a really good kit. Typical Tamiya - goes together great, nice detail out of the box and looks great once painted up.

You could go for some aftermarket detail sets, resin or PE, but really you should.be happy with the kit as is.

Only cabeat is the usual thick decals.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

If you check on ebay, there are a couple of United Airlines livery decal sets for the DC-8.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

A great way to cut PE is using the little scissors on the tiny Swiss army knife. I have several - can't find it, buy new one, find old one, repeat as necessary. I carry one at all times and I end up using it Every drat Day.

The little scissors are very sturdy, as well as sharp. It lets you snip the gate pretty close to the part,and if it's on a straight edge, it can cut it close enough a few swipes with a file cleans it up nicely. Also, the design let's you use one of the blades to support the piece. That way it doesn't get bent, the gate does.

The ones I'm talking about is the one that's maybe 2.5 inches closed, and has the blade, screwdriver/file, scissors, tweezer and toothpick. They're about $20, and we'll worth it.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Well, duh. The port side is heavier than the starboard.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

You could also go with a CO2 tank. No worries about water in the lines, silent and rechargeable.

For starters you can go with a small paintball or portable pneumatic tank. I got a set at Lowes that had one 20 oz. and two 10 oz. Depending on how much you spray, they can last a while. I don't have to get them refilled often, but I go to a sporting goods store that does paintball refills and its pretty cheap.

A step up from that would be a soda charger tank. They start at around $50 for a five pound tank. You might need to fiddle around a bit with an adapter for your brush, but once you have that you're set. I use the standard quick connect at the tank end of the hose.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Fortunately, our bodies are set to detect excess CO2 instead of low O2. You could breathe pure N2 and not realize it until you dropped, but let the CO2 levels get a little high and you start getting the "I need to breathe!" reaction.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

I was repairing a pepper mill at my hobby desk today, and went to pick up my file case. That's odd.... it won't budge.

Maybe because of the bottle of extra thin CA that fell over, which also won't budge? Mmmmm, could be!

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Anyone know of a source for 1/25 or 1/24 scale weapons? Pistols of various types, shot guns, revolver grenade launcher, like that.

I'm making the car from Supernatural for my girlfriend, and opening the trunk to show the big box o weapons. Oddly, they include the decal for the inside of the trunk lid, but you have to open it up and do the trunk itself on your own.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Just grab some spiders and let them go to town.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Three peglegs and a half dozen eye patches - the Black Widow of the Caribbean has been through some poo poo!

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

tidal wave emulator posted:

One of the funniest results of scale weirdness is we've ended up with 1/35 as a standard for armour and 1/32 as a standard for aircraft, but helicopters - as vehicles often used in conjunction with armour - exist in a liminal zone between the two and can be tooled in either scale.

Helicopters were only 1/32 for the longest time (or 1/48 or 1/72). It wasn't until the 90's that a 1/35 helicopter came out. I want to say it was an Academy kit, but it's been a while.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

I think my oldest incomplete model is an M-10 I bought in the late 80's.

I have finished other models since then, honest.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

And the cheap bubbling window film - spray some clear decal with Tamiya smoke, then put spots of flat clear on the glass, and let decal silvering be useful for loving once!

And leave a corner or two folded up so it's peeling around the edges.

On that note - what model is available of the most expensive car?

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Just remember to not put rust holes in areas that are plastic, fiberglass or composites! Not sure how much metal skins those supercars these days.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

And lovely bumper and window stickers! Does anyone make scale stick figure families?

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

You should have a look at the technicals the Ukrainians have been converting or building.

Seeing a BMW armed with a rocket launcher or a machine gun armed dune buggy zooming around eastern Ukraine is pretty cool.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Arrrggghhhh!

Went back to do some farting around with plastic bits and found my thin CA had tipped over.

Wasn't too bad getting the bottle unstuck, but there's now a half centimeter high craggy lump of solid CA stuck to my work desk.

And as a special bonus, the flat platform for the launch table of the old Convair Space Shuttlecraft is also a semipermanent part of the desk. I tried debonder, but that's not going to do much when the CA is between two flat surfaces.

I'd already glued the launch table to the platform.

Guess I'll be cutting it free and making a new platform from sheet styrene.

As for the CA berg and the platform, any suggestions for removal of bulk fully cured CA that won't be entirely destructive to the desk? Please don't say "Chip away, my friend!"

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Yeah, yellow doesn't have much pigment. Since printing is usually on white paper, that brightens it up to the shade you want.

With clear decal paper, your only option is to either paint the background where the yellow is or put the decal on white decal paper and cut it out.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Geez - I've got a shelf of doom, a closet of doom, and some boxes in the attic of doom.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Humbrol Metalcote gunmetal.

For small stuff like guns, stir forever, take a few drops out and thin just a bit. Brush paint, wait a few minutes.

It starts off looking like a dark matte gray, but polish with a soft cloth or even q tip and it becomes a very realistic dark metal. It's my go-to for guns.

Trust me on the stir forever part! The pigments settle out into a pretty solid clump, but once back into suspension work out excellently. The polished steel is similar but a much lighter color. They really do look like metal.

It airbrushes nicely, too.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

There's plenty of USB rechargeable mini vacuums around. They can be had for ten to twenty bucks.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Even a big hobby/art store like Michael's should have packs of chalk pastels. Can't think of the brand, but you get eight pastel sticks. One pack has earth tones good for rust and dirt, and the other has a range of grays.

Got mine decades ago, and they're still going strong.

For other colors, you should be able to get a variety of colors as individual sticks. I found getting lighter warm and cool greens really good for fading effects on plane paint jobs. A more specialized art place should have pots of chalk pastel powders, but they're pricy.

On topic, I used the rust color and green for the rust ring and streaking on the 1/1000 TOS Enterprise. Looks really good.

Just make sure they're chalk pastels and not oil. Totally different animal!

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Just add every spare wing in your collection.

"Oh, it's the rare sesquicentenniplane version"

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Your best bet to fix an area is to use styrene for the main part of the shape and then do the final contouring with sprue goo or other putty. Fill with as much styrene (even lengths of sprue) as you can and use as little goo as possible.

Tamiya Grey putty is a fairly quick drying one. It's a little porous so it let's the solvents out more easily.

A really thick layer of goo would take forever to dry, and likely leave sink marks.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Best bet is a pva like Krystal kleer. Any you get on the clear part is easily cleaned off with water.

UV resin could be an option, but any smears would be harder to get off the inside.

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MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

netizen posted:

I wonder if this X-21 stuff might be kind of useful if it works well. I can just purchase gloss paints and convert them to different sheens instead of having to buy gloss, semi-gloss, flat variants of the same color.

Wasn't there a paint line that did this? The colors were all glossy, and you then hit it with the appropriate clear to get the finish you wanted.

I want to say Xtracolor, but I could be wrong. I remember hearing about it in the 90s and some people swearing by it, others swearing at it.

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