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Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Baronjutter posted:

So I never tried this before, but I thought I'd make a building with a basement door. It's rare to ever see doors like this on model trains because all kit buildings are designed to plop down on some flat surface, something like basement stairs means you need to carve out a hole. So that's what I did, I took my drill and make a hole!





I wanted to make a nasty little 1950-60's ish addition to this pretty 1930's industrial building. The bricks are perfect n scale CMU's, which are a hell of a lot easier to cut than n scale bricks. The whole thing is painfully gray, maybe I should have kept the cmu's raw concrete looking but at least painted the concrete frame some sort of colour, but it's too late now so it's all raw concrete except for the blue door.

I think 'painfully gray' is perfect for the slapdash addition effect.

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Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Nebakenezzer posted:

:thejoke:

I may try and do my entry as bookshelf camouflage, as I did once upon a time, unless anybody has ideas for themes. Rustier than a Vladivostok shipyard?

I'd be down for having my first plane ever be an airfix rustang for this group project.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Well, I'm in. :10bux: to Amazon, it'll be here Tuesday.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



I feel the need to go lazy and leave all of the flashing and sprue nubs on for maximum... hmmm...

I've got an idea...

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Nebakenezzer posted:

^ Nice. 1/35 or 1/72?


I'm gonna assume those handles round the tank are solid chunks of plastic?

:v: Not at all. Two pipes each with nubs on the bottom to slot in.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Went in to pick up some cement for craptank, walked out with these guys from the clearance section.



I have no self control.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



SkunkDuster posted:

Are you planning on posting pictures of the F-15 build? I'd love to see them!

When I get to it. It's in line behind a gunpla and craptank. It's also my first jet, so there's that first time nervousness.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



What is my current struggle? My workspace. I have essentially a 3 x 3 fold-out card table to work with. And pretty soon I won't even have that, since I'll be moving back into dorm housing, and I'm pretty sure they'll frown on my DIY spray booth and air compressor. That said, I'll be making my second home at my mother's new house, and I'd like to see what you guys have for work benches/shop space to get some ideas for how I could lay out my space.

So post pictures of your work benches.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



I'm having the same track problems, only I wasn't smart enough to put them on before gluing the drive assembly to the chassis. What I'm loving with is actually gluing the tracks to the individual wheels with a thicker cement. I had some testors stuff with a 45 second set time from ages past, and after threading the tracks through the top of the assembly, dabbed a bit on the bottom of each wheel, then pulled the tracks together. There's still a gap, but I think with the rest of the track in place, I'll be able to macguyver that together. Maybe.


edit: there's also a big dumb gap in the front where the chassis, drive assembly(s), and undercarriage come together. :wtc:

Warmachine fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Aug 8, 2015

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



So what would this thread recommend as material for modeling 1/72 scale trailer hitch testicles? Asking for a friend.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012





Craptank has been sitting like this for roughly two weeks now, since I've had poo poo for time. I did carve out the muzzle break. I also stuck modeling putty in the tracks and called it close enough. Seriously gently caress vinyl. Not sure if I'll do a camo, or if I'll take the lazy tank crew option and just detail and weather it.

Ahahahaha we all know the answer here. gently caress this tank.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Ensign Expendable posted:

I think you put the rear upper plate on backwards.

That would imply that there was a rear upper plate to begin with. :laugh: :ussr:

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Between the Hi-Mock, the Grimoir, and the Bearguy series, Bandai's been pretty good at putting out generic open canvas kits for people to go hog with. Personally, what I drool over in plammo are the dioramas.




More patience and skill than I currently have. But someday.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Unkempt posted:

Are these things in the same styrene plastic as regular tank/plane kits? If so then I'm in, but if it needs all different glues and such then maybe not.

I've had good results with Tenax on mine, so I'd assume so. They technically don't require glue, but they technically don't require paint, either.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



You don't replace craptank's parts, you merely fill in the gaps with ballast and epoxy and good intentions. Just like your Comrades once did.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Feenix posted:

One last (Sorry if I'm getting annoying...) image of a materials breakdown now that it is morning time and I could work on it...




Between you and Ensign Expendable, this thread is going to overtake Canadians in being apologetic for things they shouldn't apologize for. The aluminum foil tree trunk is clever as hell.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Smoke posted:

Seeing stuff like that always makes me think I still have a long ways to go, and I should really start learning how to build small dioramas for the models I complete.

This is what I eventually want to get to. School is out in about a week, and when I'm home for the holidays, I'm going to finish my gunpla, and start working on my F-15.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Crapmock: Son of Craptank is turning out magically.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Base Emitter posted:

I thought Tamiya was alcohol based? Or is that just clears?

(I blew a bunch of Tamiya clear red on my hi-mock, but this room is pretty well ventilated in the sense that it can waft through the rest of my condo...)

Fumigating my roommates was my way of getting back at them for always leaving the kitchen a disaster. Now, though, I have to duct my booth out a window.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Blue Footed Booby posted:

I don't model for god like I don't model for Santa Claus. :spergin:

But when your toys come alive, how will they rescue you from Krampus without a fully functional C-130?

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



So I've been on a tool shopping kick recently, and one of my pickups was a cheap pistol trigger airbrush. Kinda boring, wouldn't use it for anything other than primers, clearcoats, and other non-precision work. How is this interesting?

Years ago I bought a bottle of Bob Dively liquid mask before the local Hobbytown USA went out of business--and it is somehow still good 8 years later. Never liked using the stuff with a brush--it goes on goopy, hiding the details you want to slice around, and ruins your brushes such that even your lovely brushes lose their worth. The instructions recommend spraying, but like hell am I putting what amounts to liquid latex through any non-disposable airbrush. But this new brush looked like the perfect candidate to do something stupid with. So I swapped for the largest nozzle it has, cranked my compressor up to 40psi, and loaded it with some thinned goop to try on a test spoon.

Absolute perfection. Went on in a nice, even coat, and thin enough that I'm positive I could still see panel lines and other bits I want to slice around. No resistance to the knife either, and no snagging when I peeled up the slice with my tweezers. And it cleaned up just fine with warm water. Next step is to try it on an actual piece when it isn't 4AM and I have work in four hours, but if it works half as well as it did on the spoon, my opinion on liquid mask might do a 180.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



RillAkBea posted:

But then would you even be scale modelling?

I dunno I got 4 hours of sleep and I'm high on acetone.

Ensign Expendable posted:

I had no luck with liquid masks, they're always hard to cut through and sticky enough that I end up damaging the paint anyway.

I don't even know if they make the stuff I'm using anymore. I'm actually shocked it was still good. The mouth of the bottle was caked with a nasty, dirty plug of cured fluid, but after removing that the contents are as fresh as the day I bought it.

I'm planning to try some of the Mr. Hobby brand stuff as well. I like the idea of liquid mask, but up until now the reality of it has kept me away from it.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Gewehr 43 posted:

I did that with a bottle of Vallejo air silver metallic. That's when I learned that the dropper tip is just press fit into the neck of the bottle. It looked like a metallic silver bomb went off in my model room.

Edit: it was not easy to clean up.

Liquid glitter.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



FPyat posted:

By the way, how do people handle ventilation in winter? My only option is opening the windows so I've been on hiatus all this year.

1. YOLO it and huff solvents like a true hobbiest.
2. Wear a respirator with filters that include an organic vapor component.
3. Open the window and wear a coat.

I prefer option 2, unless I'm lazy or in a rush to try something, in which case it's option 1. My work room is a poorly sealed 3-season room and entirely unheated, so it's just about as cold and ventilated with the storm windows open as shut.

But no, seriously. A respirator will do you wonders. Now, if you've got to worry about other people in the area, that's another problem entirely. There's no solution that doesn't end up with someone being uncomfortable.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



SkunkDuster posted:

I bought one of those $150 or so spray booths from amazon. Ditched the hose that came with it and replaced it with a more flexible dryer hose and picked up some dryer exhaust vent stuff that is installed into a piece of plywood. I removed the window in my basement and put the plywood in place of it. If you work with lacquers and use one of these spray booths, you'll want to get a sheet of HDPE, LDPE, or something like that to put down inside it as a work surface because whatever plastic they made that booth out of dissolves into a gooey mess when it comes into contact with lacquer paint or thinner.



Pretty sure we have the same model. I do not know why they chose cylinder plugs for the LED lights, and acetone does in fact turn the thing into goop.

Works pretty good otherwise.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



SkunkDuster posted:

The first thing I did was remove the cold white LEDs and replace them with warm white LED strips. It was a pretty easy conversion if you can solder. I'm guessing they used cold white because they could advertise a higher brightness rating, but that blue light is awful.

I'll make note of it. I'm not sure how I feel about it because I do use a 100w "daylight" bulb for room illumination, which I'm happy with. But at the detail scale, the blue light... I don't know.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Gotta finish your interiors or God will know.

I checked out a local hobby place I didn't know existed until recently. They advertise themselves more toward the RC crowd, so I didn't think much of them, but they have a pretty OK selection of kits, and their tools section at least beats Hobby Lobby. But the real find was the 30+ year old kits in the clearly neglected airplanes aisle, and a rubbermaid bin full of random waterslide sheets that were probably printed in the early 1980s. I picked through it a bit, and the goldmine is that quite a few have squadron insignias, which are like gold for me because my primary models are Gunpla, and Bandai does gently caress-all with things like squadron or pilot livery. Considering that a few of the customization ideas bumping around my head are "giant robot but real world squadrons/aces," I'll probably be back to pick through that bin in the coming months.

And also pick up that Hasegawa F-14 from 1989 that I inconspicuously tucked away toward the back of the shelf.

This is all, of course, predicated on me finishing my first complete piece, which I've posted a bit about in the Gunpla thread but thought I'd share here. I'm done with the primary coats on almost every part, though a few like the legs still have some detail work to finish. The legs are a mess of different colors that Bandai didn't bother to separate. But I should be on the last steps of that (some exhaust vents need a coat of yellow for the highlights then black for the actual vents). Since I wanted to show SOMETHING, I did finish assembling the head. The glass effect for the eyes/cameras came out better than I anticipated, but I did have to touch up some spots by hand because there was a drop of cement on my finger and that poo poo eats paint like breakfast. I was also a little trigger happy when I was painting the side vents, so the yellow on those is thicker than I wanted. I'm happy with how it came out though, given this is my first serious attempt at finishing a fully airbrushed/painted kit. Just needs gloss, panel lines, and matte. Maybe a decal depending on what comes in the mail this week.



Maybe a touch up around the camera where some of the clear green got out...

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Sash! posted:

Crayola made stuff like that, but I don't remember what it was called.

It was like playing with a huge stale marshmallow. I remember using it for making the terrain around a scale model of Fort Duquesne that I put entirely too much effort into for a school project.

I definitely recall this stuff from elementary art class in the late 90s.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



grassy gnoll posted:

Mr Surfacer 500 is currently my favorite seam filler. I wouldn't use it for big divots or sink marks, but it'll fill a seam neatly and the overflow brushes right off with some iso.

Anything bigger gets white putty and a sanding with a glass file, probably some cursing along the way.

Are you basically brushing it on thick then removing excess like you would with Tamiya putty?

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Jobbo_Fett posted:

Got myself a vortex mixer for my enamel paints because, it turns out, that not using them for 7 or so years really makes it hard to get the pigment to mix by hand.

On the plus side, I can start working on the pseudo-graveyard Raiden and the paint came out nice after two minutes of shaking.

On the downside, I have less of a reason to put off work on the 8 or so models I have waiting on the sidelines now...

138 days until "Backlogust" begins.

Over in the Gunpla thread, someone was beating themselves up and mentioned wanting to get into tanks but being scared of the work involved. I remember a crap build project from this thread a few years (read, 2015 or so) back where I tried my hand at the lovely T-34 kit the thread picked out and picked up a few nuggets of knowledge in what was otherwise a failed attempt. This comment came up from that anecdote:

mllaneza posted:

This is the way. Buy a cheap kit that interests you, mess it up, do better make different mistakes on the next one.

Honestly probably the best piece of advice I've ever heard for the hobby.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



I have a blue sky diorama idea involving 1:144 scale German and Soviet military models (Victrix) and some gunpla, in the same vein as those folks who make diorama of kaiju in WWII scenes. It's a good ways off, but the idea of giant robots dolled up like a T-34 and a Panzer IV stomping around eastern Ukraine circa 1943 as to-scale infantry duke it out underfoot sounds :krad:

Warmachine fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Mar 16, 2023

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Charliegrs posted:

I wonder how difficult it would be to 3D print a lower hull for a ship model? I don't think it would need to be perfect since most of it would be submerged.

Or even just the equivalent of a shim in the direction you want your list to go. You might be able to get away with very little depending on the degree, what is being exposed, and if your ocean base is opaque or clear.

A clear one with the ship on the surface and a submarine below (or torpedoes in a battle scene) would be sick.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



FPyat posted:

My finger dexterity is good enough but drat are my hands shaky.

I was doing some hand touch ups tonight and my fingers were rock steady.

A short while later I was doing some panel lining, and my fingers were like seismometer needles in an earthquake.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Does anyone have a recommended brand of clear gloss and matte coats for airbrushing? I've been playing with decanting Mr. Hobby UV cut gloss and matte, but even factoring in vacuum chamber degassing I think whatever propellant they use makes it particularly fizzy, which causes problems when feeding it through my brushes.

Ideally whatever it is ends up being lacquer based, since I've got tons of lacquer thinner laying around.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Dr. VooDoo posted:

What’s a good compressor/air brush combo for a beginner? I don’t wanna buy junk that I’ll have to replace for better stuff in like a month but I also don’t need like a $1,000 top of the line airbrush either since I’m just starting

More seriously, this has pretty much everything you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B002KSQHB6?th=1

Compressor, tank, regulator, moisture trap, and a passable brush. It's what I started on. The only things I've done is buy more brushes. I have 4 now--the brush that came with this kit, a similarly cheap pistol-trigger style brush, an Iwata Neo and a Badger Sotar.

I'd recommend getting a spray-out pot as well, and looking into what you can do for a spray booth. There are lots of DIY booth guides out there--my starter booth was a rubbermaid container and furnace filter strapped to a bathroom fan :jeb:

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Blue Footed Booby posted:

Lol the old standard.

I have the tankless version and it works fine. It's quiet enough that the thing running isn't really a problem, but if I could do things over I'd get this version.

The brush isn't the best, but it gets the job done and it's still my go-to for laying down primer and stuff like that.

Instead of a booth, I use cheapo plastic drop cloths, some magnets, and the top of my washing machine.

That's exactly what I use that brush for, though it gets very little actual use these days because the pistol-grip version is so much more comfortable to use for that.

The Sotar is my workhorse, since I'm primarily doing Gunpla in 1:144 scale. So lots of small fiddly bits which is where the Sotar excels. It draws fine lines and other small work like a goddamn dream, to the point where I kinda shocked myself freehanding some work and only needed a couple minor hand touch ups after. I bought the thing in my initial manic hobby purchases during my 2015 internship and I could not be happier.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



I think basic model stuff has been covered pretty well. A lot of things you won't know you need until you need it.

Since I'm trying to expand into dioramas and terrain, this YouTube video I found last night felt like a pretty good rundown for scene creation needs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pGLE8mjjRE

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Southern Heel posted:

Speaking of equipment: does anybody outside of the “YouTube modelling community” use, either black or flexible superglue?

Somehow I've missed this post. I've used flexible precisely once--when repairing a friend's John Snow action figure. I used it in combination with a metal pin to fix the wrist that had sheared off when it fell from a shelf.

I'd say its primary use is to get a bond in a place that might get more stress than other parts and you need it to be able to give a little without snapping, since the key downside to stiff CA bonds is that they are very brittle.

No idea about black though. The video I linked on diorama tools suggests some black-dyed mod podge but that's kinda the terrain equivalent of a bottle of Mr. Surfacer 500. I have a hard time seeing a use for colored glue in general because if the color is going to be visible after everything else is done, I feel like I've probably done something wrong.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Nerobro posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

This might be the best explanation of thinning paint I've run across. It's worth the 20 minutes.

I jumped into airbrush so fast because I could never quite figure out the thinning technique with traditional brushes. The extra steps of analyzing what we want the paint to do, and actually showing the painting process with thinned paint puts a lot of the nonsense "thin your paint" "make it like milk" "multiple thin coats" comments into much better perspective.

I kinda wonder how many people out there are blindly following whatever first comment they read about thinning without stopping to ask why and how?

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Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



This is the chill out and vibe video I've been watching today of someone putting together a diorama of Shinjuku Station in 1:150 scale. Makes me real jealous of people with CAD experience and laser cutters... and watching them work with the detailing it makes me feel less bad having shaky hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVoQyT-IvNs

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