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Forgeworld also seems to have prices that are far more stable than their parent company, Games Workshop.
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Feb 5, 2013 02:26
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Baronjutter posted:So a project I was working on just got ruined because I used CA glue to do my glazing. It was fine all day but when I looked at it this morning the glazing had horribly fogged over in patches. I'm reading now CA releases fumes which does this to most glazing... Try a gloss varnish over the affected glazing. It might fix things.
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Jul 8, 2013 21:53
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Nebakenezzer posted:Having read through world war 2 from the perspective of Life I can tell you that minor mis-identifications are pretty common. I think somewhere in their Normandy coverage they identify a front-on Mk.IV Panzer as a Tiger, for example. Reading contemporary allied accounts from the West after D-Day, one might be convinced that every German tank was a Tiger.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:52
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Mr. Funny Pants posted:How is Master Grip stuff? Costco has this set for $20: For $20 you can't go far wrong, and even if the blades turn out to be crap, decent x-acto ones can be readily had.
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Nov 10, 2013 20:10
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Things like Kickstarter are also a massive boon to the smaller indie operations.
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Nov 23, 2013 01:54
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Ensign Expendable posted:There are scale model kickstarters? I have never seen one, but then again, I don't look too closely. There are loads of them for wargaming miniatures. I can't recall any that are explicitly for scale models (mostly for want of looking), but based on how the funding model has allowed a lot of concepts to see the light of day, it's only a matter of time before someone makes the leap.
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Nov 23, 2013 02:27
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I finished a thing for the Sea Cadet unit I work with: The cadets themselves fitted out the hull and worked on the mast, I finished the rigging and decals for them. They did a decent job on the hull and it was a good learning experience for them, and now the unit has a pretty kickass training aid.
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Nov 30, 2013 15:57
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That label is loving vile. I love it.
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Mar 16, 2014 02:11
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But guys, it's handcrafted by skilled partisans.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:10
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You know, backing some photoetch brass sheets like that with a piece of masking tape would help secure parts enough that they wouldn't fly off when cut with a knife or even flush cutters I bet.
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May 31, 2014 23:22
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Don't be so hard on yourself regarding the planking and nails. Whatever imperfections exist at this stage stand out because they are the only details added to this point; when you get more features on the deck, I doubt anyone will notice. That said, I think they look just fine!
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Aug 17, 2014 21:45
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Ludicro posted:I've not built a model plane since I was about 13 years old. Tamiya tape (or any low adhesive painter's masking tape) and a sharp scalpel work well for me.
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Aug 20, 2014 20:26
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porkfactor posted:Not quite - from playing around I can see the decals don't quite cover the tail fully (particularly at the top, and along the front) so there's going to be an obvious transition from decal black to paint black. Keep the decals nice and wet when you apply them and maybe brush on a little water to keep the tail surface slick to allow you to move them around more freely. Also, apply one, let it dry/apply MicroSol, then do the other later once the first is good and set.
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Sep 13, 2014 23:31
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SkunkDuster posted:I see what you mean now. I guess I would just put a thin bit of black down where the seam is with the confidence that nobody but I would ever notice the transition. Judging from your progress so far, I think it is safe to say that however you end up doing it, it is going to look good. Also seconding Fearless' suggestion of Microset/Microsol. That stuff is fantastic. I use it to help settle chapter insignia on the pauldrons of my space marines. I am pretty sure that is one of the most miserable surfaces ever devised for decal placement.
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Sep 14, 2014 21:56
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I use a twin bladed box window fan and a furnace filter that matches it in size to catch my overspray. Oh, and my booth is composed of a cardboard box and duct tape. Lots of duct tape. I think I have about $15 into it.
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Dec 3, 2014 11:47
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Some of the Sheep posted:These ships were bespoke when made, so getting them 'perfect' would probably not look right anyway. Your model looks like a ship built by master craftsman, so by that measure it is perfect. Yeah, classes as we understand them today are a pretty laughable notion when every shipbuilder zealously guarded his secrets. Aside from the number of guns mounted, most ships in a rate were similar only in the broadest sense. poo poo, there are even subtle differences in modern ships of the same class, and I'm not talking about intentional amendments made to plans. Interestingly enough, a lot of the old ships of the line were actually lopsided due to the imprecision of measuring instruments. I seem to recall reading something about how the construction of the Swedish ship Vasa featured several different linear measuring instruments, each with creative interpretations of what a set unit of measurment would be. I think one side extends further from the keel than the other.
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Jan 21, 2015 03:58
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Pierzak posted:Annd it almost sailed a mile without sinking, too It's been a while since grad school, but apparently her builder had never attempted to build a ship of that magnitude and complexity before. She had stability issues from the get-go-- apparently, running 30 men from port to starboard a few times was enough to make her rock badly enough to cause fear of a capsize. Anyways, that wooden ship under construction by The Locator is absolutely gorgeous and I love seeing periodic updates of its progress.
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Jan 21, 2015 04:09
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The Locator posted:The bone models are actually one of the prime sources of research for many ships of that period when no other really good records of them exist. They are amazing examples of human ingenuity and craftsmanship, and I never fail to be amazed that they were produced in the conditions of an early 19th century prisoner of war camp only the items and tools that they could come up with and make themselves. British sailors of the same period that were engaged in the blockade of the continent spent up to two years on a ship. If that is all you can see for that long, I bet you get to know it extremely well.
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Mar 21, 2015 16:31
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Pierzak posted:Paint Soviet hardware and accuse all complainers of defeatism, reactionism and sabotage of the glorious people's arms industry I believe the period-correct term is "wrecking." You'd know that if you weren't a filthy kulak. Fearless fucked around with this message at 02:29 on May 16, 2015 |
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May 16, 2015 02:22
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I think that's an Admiral Hipper class heavy cruiser, not Tirpitz or Bismarck. Could be Prinz Eugen, which sailed with Bismarck on her last sortie.
Fearless fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Nov 14, 2015 |
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Nov 14, 2015 07:51
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That is utterly demented. I love it.
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Jun 18, 2016 02:47
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The Locator posted:I highly recommend getting a simpler ship to build first. Very few people who try something like the Victory as their first wooden ship ever finish it. Starting with that is seriously jumping into the deep end on a build that would take an experienced wooden ship builder 2-3 years to complete. This is a very good recommendation. The first wooden kit I attempted was a 1/72 scale Bluenose that defeated me. While I have loads of experience with very large scale plastic and resin models, I have never gone back to any sort of wooden models since and I think if I had started with something more within my level of capability I would have stuck with it.
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Jul 31, 2016 02:59
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lilljonas posted:Yup, sprayed on a coat of grey primer, and then airbrushed a preshading coat, a mid coat, and a highlight. And... rrrrrrrip, lost huge chunks that stuck to the white tac. Plastic tanks survived, though. Are you in the habit of washing your resin kits before you paint them? There is often a lot of casting lube in the molds and that can transfer to the models themselves... a wash in lukewarm soapy water can help, though in the past FW kits have had that oily poo poo embedded in the resin itself and it's almost impossible to remove.
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Aug 8, 2016 15:26
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N17R4M posted:I appreciate that the illustration has significantly more cleavage then the actual painted models. This is dangerously veering towards the German tradition of H0 scale fornication. The scale means it's only a little obscene.
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Feb 22, 2017 13:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:Yup, many thin layers is fine, one thick layer and you're hosed. Ask me how I know this. Painting miniatures? I did that with an old metal space marine dreadnought nearly 20 years ago. Mercifully, being metal, it survived a bath in brake cleaner and was repainted. I doubt that sort of thing would fly with plastic or resin.
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May 27, 2017 09:46
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Arquinsiel posted:You just have to change the bath. Cillit Bang degreaser works fine on resin or plastic. Oh most definitely. I use Simple Green or Super Clean now and they work great so long as it's acrylic paint to be removed.
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May 28, 2017 01:21
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Greyhawk posted:After the usual bout of logistical problems at the start of a Hachette partwork, I'm back at building the Scharnhorst. Issue 4 lets me add 2 frames and side beams to the front structure of the ship. How is the exterior cladding of the hull done in these kits? Is it planking similar to the wooden tall ship kits, or is there some other method involved?
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Aug 15, 2017 03:36
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Gewehr 43 posted:I love how photobucket's recent Crotch Fruit posted:Photobucket started charging $399 a year to be able to use the site for 3rd party hosting. I belong to a forum that covers the care and feeding of Victorian period firearms and we got screwed by that too. A lot of small internet communities got hit hard.
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Aug 31, 2017 05:29
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Colonial Air Force posted:Amazon actually has the Model Shipways wooden longboat for only $50. I think I remember someone saying it was a decent starter kit? They also do really neat metal and wood (mostly metal) artillery kits. I've built two, the Napoleon gun-howitzer and the Whitworth gun and enjoyed building both. Those are also worth checking out if you want to try something a little different.
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Mar 29, 2018 05:47
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The Locator posted:They make really crazy and big airplane skeleton kits too, using wood and metal. I haven't checked those out, but I am putting some serious thought into making another stab at wooden ship building. I tried building a model of the Bluenose about 10 years ago and failed miserably. I might start with the Shipways cutter before making that leap to something larger. Proud Nova Scotian that I am, I'd like to give Bluenose another go and do it right.
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Mar 29, 2018 06:32
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I took the plunge back into wooden ship modelling. I've got a Model Shipways long boat coming in a couple of days to bang away at. I'm looking forward to doing this one right-- I've done tons of plastic, resin and metal over the years but wood's something I have yet to master.
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Apr 12, 2018 09:17
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I got a start on that longboat yesterday and have been able to start planking the hull. It's kind of daunting at first, particularly where past projects have lent themselves to rapid assembly. I've got two pairs of planks on so far and I swear I am learning something new with each plank as I go and each new one looks better and better. I've learned not to rush this, but the process of bending each plank so that it fits just so is therapeutic in its own right.
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Apr 13, 2018 22:06
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I ran into a little trouble planking my longboat. The instructions detailed the process of measuring out the available space left on the middle bulkhead and dividing that by 10 (the remaining number of planks needed for the hull) and indicated that this process needed to be done for each bulkhead to discover how much taper had to be given to each remaining plank. The instructions indicated that the taper would be quite gradual, but my math showed something very different-- I wound up with a very strong taper in each plank as they ran towards the bow. I was able to finish the planking and after another fairing pass, the hull is quite smooth and looks good. The other reference photos I have seen of this kit do not have the same extreme taper that mine does so I'd like to get a better handle on where I went wrong so as to avoid making the same mistake in the future. I still really enjoyed the process though and would like to do it again.
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Apr 16, 2018 09:35
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The Locator posted:Close-up photo's might help so we can see what you mean and maybe be able to help you figure out what happened. Sure. Here are shots from multiple perspectives. I did manage to make things pretty symmetrical overall by planking two at a time, so I'm happy about that. This is my first serious attempt at planking and I feel like I learned a lot about it but I'm at a loss to explain how I wound up with results so divergent from what I've seen from other completed versions of the same kit. E: I think that part of the problem might be that my garboard planks may have introduced a curve that built progressively over the course of the next few planks... but that still doesn't quite explain why the formula in the instructions produced such a severe taper.     And for a bonus, an old WIP of something I was more used to working on: 
Fearless fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Apr 16, 2018 |
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Apr 16, 2018 20:46
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Greyhawk posted:I'll assume this is the 18th century longboat designed by Chuck Passaro? It is indeed the longboat by Chuck Passaro. The garboard actually ends just ahead of the scarph joint in the keel (about 1/8" past it. It looks messy in there because I threw a patch in there to fill the gap, thinking that the garboard plank wasn't supposed to turn inwards to the keel like it did. This would explain why it looks that way (because functionally it does). I see what you mean now and it makes sense. Anyways, thank you for the guidance and kind words. I like the boat and intend to paint the hull white and black like one of Victory's longboats so the Many Sins of the Planking will be concealed from all but knowledgeable eyes.
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Apr 16, 2018 22:38
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The Locator posted:Being able to see it on my monitor at home, and reading about your patch, I can now see clearly the problem. I am terrible at paint, but I'll try to illustrate as best I can the flow that you should have used. The green squiggle is your patch, and the orange lines are where the planks should have been placed to properly flow without hooking upwards at the bow. Very little tapering should have been needed I think. I have this kit and really should build it someday! Yes, I see what you mean. I like this kit a lot. It's been a great way to ease into wooden model building without committing to a much larger vessel. It's also kind of a labor of love; the longboat is very similar in form and function to the whalers and cutters I trained in as a Sea Cadet a very long time ago. I've gotten into the habit of keeping log books of my hobbies to track progress and record lessons learned. I've already got several entries on this project and don't mind learning more as I go. Based on your work that I have seen, I'd say you've learned your lessons well.
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Apr 17, 2018 05:30
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I've done a bunch of work on the longboat. The interior is almost done and I am heading onto the rudder and tiller, then onto the rigging, mast and spars. I am seriously considering a vise of some sort to hold the boat as I install the rigging.  I opted for a colour scheme reminiscent of that worn by HMS Victory's longboat. I like the simple contrast between white and black (and it spares me from having to do all kinds of loopy freehand).
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Apr 20, 2018 01:45
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The Locator posted:Looks like you are doing really well! Many thanks. I've gotten the hull basically complete and the rudder fitted. My task this weekend is to start the rigging, spars and mast.
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Apr 20, 2018 17:26
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I've made more progress on my longboat. I have discovered that I do not enjoy rigging nearly as much as I do planking, but if I pace myself and set small, realistic goals it isn't so bad. 
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Apr 23, 2018 06:53
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The Locator posted:Rigging is a lot more fun when you are using quality line and blocks, not the garbage that kit makers supply. Thanks for the advice. It's not quite the quality of the materials that is presenting the biggest hurdle, it's my decidedly not-dainty sausage fingers and gorilla hands. I've been waxing all of my lines and it has made them far easier to handle than the really slippery condition it's in as-issued. Also, I just checked out that site and holy cats those lines are nice. When I move on to my next kit I know where I am headed. Bloody Hedgehog posted:Excellent work so far! Really digging your work on this build. Thank you. It's by no means perfect but unless something is egregiously bad I'm not going back to fix it. Each error is a tiny little monument to the learning process. That said, I am mostly happy with it so far. I've been painting and building models since I was six. Most of them were plastic, with a fair few metal and resin kits thrown in there. My first stab at building a wooden model ship did not end well, but I think that I am better positioned to build a kit like this now that I am older and more patient than I was 12 or 13 years ago. Fearless fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Apr 23, 2018 |
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Apr 23, 2018 10:15
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