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So, I've recently gotten into this scale model thing as well. Due to availability issues and a general lack of decent hobby stores(I'm in Belgium) I'm kinda stuck with the Revell stuff generally available in stores here, and I'm slowly learning as I go along. I've mainly gotten their 1:144 and 1:72 scale planes, and for christmas I got a Volkswagen Kastenwagen I haven't gotten around to yet. So far I've assembled a few kits, but my main issue lies with correctly applying the decals: I seem to have trouble properly aligning them or making sure they stay in place(and in some cases they seem to vanish shortly after applying, mainly the small ones). Any tips or am I at the mercy of plopping them down according to the instructions and hoping I aligned them right? Recent example(although it's 1:450 and I got it because it was dirt cheap):  I only discovered I put the long decal on this kit on a bit too far backwards when I got around to putting on the front bits(not shown in this picture) and I have no idea if it's safe to try and peel off the decal and re-apply somehow. I'm currently working on the Revell 1:144 F-14A Tomcat and I'd like to avoid misaligned stuff, I'm kinda obsessed with details like that.
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May 20, 2015 17:19
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Nebakenezzer posted:Decals go better on glossy than flat surfaces. The main tip is to use water with dish liquid in it for placing the decals. If you wet the surface with that solution and then apply the decal, you can move it around plenty without worrying about tearing. The other two thing that can help with decals are decal setting solutions. In North America we have micro-sol and micro-mark - I'm not sure what they use in Europe. A bit late with responding but I ended up giving both suggestions a try. Found a model kit store that had Micro-set and picked up a bottle, along with trying the dish liquid trick. Still gotta redo the decals on the Boeing(Also considering just picking up a new one for the four euros they cost and just using the decals, or using paint to finish it), but last weekend I assembled a 1:72 Revell Fokker D.VII and decalled it to give it a try, here's the progress and results:    The Micro-set smells terrible when applying, but it does a great job. I ended up not putting on the lozenge camouflage because the entire sheet was black and white and would require hand-painting every single lozenge on there, basically a case of  .Also picked up a new challenge while I was at the store:  That Tomcat in there is one I'm working on right now, it's also 1:144. I'm still pretty much new to the game so most of this is practice on "easy" models just to get the hang of it. Due to apartment living I'm a bit limited in space and what I can do, so all my painting is regular brushwork.
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Jun 10, 2015 10:59
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 Currently decalling up a Revell 1:144 Tomcat, but the missile racks keep falling off. Gonna end up finishing the decals, then re-glueing them on, then fixing paint issues. I've also got the Revell 1:720 USS Intrepid that needs to be painted, but it's an old mold and it clearly shows by having large amounts of flash on it and not fitting together all that well in parts(The hull and the bottom of it have minor alignment issues, I was already able to fix most of it) Gonna have to get some putty to clean that up. Given that I've never done this before, should I go with Revell's own stuff or are there other brands better suited for it?  At least painting and decalling it will be relatively easy, since it's mainly large areas that need to be done.
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Jun 20, 2015 10:55
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Seems my question earlier got kinda missed because I sandwiched it between two pictures. So here we go again! I'm building a 1/720 Revell USS Intrepid, and due to it being a classic mold it has some nasty gapping issues(and flash all over the place), and some parts just didn't fit together all that well resulting in even more gaps. I can get Revell's own putty from a nearby toystore, but I'm wondering if it's good enough, or if I'm better off going to a specialty store and getting another brand. It's not like I'll have to go out of my way to get it either way. I'm also still deeply in the learning phase, but I'm making progress. Picture of said Intrepid:  Only painted the hull and the tiny planes that come with it so far, I wanna fix up the gaps before painting the rest. What I've built and finished since starting a few months ago:  The F15 was my first ever model kit outside of building some kind of easy and cheap Revell kit ages ago when I was young, and a bunch of snap-together kits(Revell Star Wars kits and Bandai's Rockman X line from years ago) I've already learned a lot since then and eager to learn and build more. I'm mainly focussing on the cheap 1/144 kits for now, but I've got a few bigger ones lined up for later.
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Jun 24, 2015 19:30
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The Locator posted:I used to use Green Putty http://www.amazon.com/Tube-Green-Pu...GBEWY9NJE4PDVGN I'll see if I can find it locally, and I'll also ask/look around in the model store. Considering I'm in Belgium ordering online isn't always a good option due to shipping costs and stuff.
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Jun 25, 2015 14:02
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As someone who currently does all his model kit paintwork with brushes and Revell enamel paints, would there be any advantage to switch to airbrushes? My main concerns are a lack of space and ventilation. Currently I do all my building at my PC desk, I'm in a tiny apartment with not too much space or any separate workspace(or even adequate ventilation) Overall results I'm getting are pretty decent though, I just have the occasional missed spot or with some paints(gloss mainly) slightly visible brushstrokes. Also, the only paints I have good access to are the Revell enamels since they're sold in various places, as opposed to others that I could only get from a specialty store or order online. Considering I've got like fourty different paint colors already I'd like to avoid having to rebuy them all, and it's gonna be mainly for larger surfaces as I'm moving to larger kits(started out with 1/144 fighter planes) Reason I'm asking is because I recently built the Revell 1/24 Volkswagen T1 panel van, and painting the larger surfaces on it was a bit of a chore.
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Jul 20, 2015 17:04
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To be honest that is a terrible canopy to paint to begin with. It's even more hellish at 1/144(Revell Micro Wings, good way to spend an hour or so, but the molds are covered in flash and molding imperfections) I really need to take some better pictures using my actual camera, and do some touchups on that one. And I need to get around to finishing that Intrepid in the back, it's just begging me to spend an entire afternoon painting after I get done filling up the gaps. I also have a P51Din 1/72 I need to get around to, as soon as I finish the P47D that's been mostly done for a few months, but I keep getting dragged away by other models. Currently working on Revell's A-10 Thunderbolt II in 1/144 and after that I've got their 1/50 Viking Ship to get around to.
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Jul 24, 2015 22:27
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Jonny Nox posted:1/144 is not that bad. If we go that route might I suggest the Revell F-14 kits? The Revell F14D 1/144 is a pretty neat kit overall, I finished one a few months ago. Not nearly as much of a bitch with decals as the Revell 1/144 Eurofighter Typhoon(Over 100, and some were mislabelled/not mentioned in the instructions in the version I got), and there's barely any tiny parts other than the missiles and the missile rack.  As for boats I am currently working on Revell's 1/50 Viking Ship.
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Aug 25, 2015 09:34
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Probably stupid question, but if I have a choice to get airplane 1/72 model kits from either Revell, Airfix or Academy, which should I prefer, considering most of my other stuff is Revell? I'm in Bulgaria at the moment and found a store that has all three, looking to bring back a souvenir or two. Also spotted the Revell F-15A(edit: This one), proudly displaying a 1982 copyright on the box and boasting a whole 23 parts(and a fully empty cockpit). Wouldn't have noticed normally if I didn't also spot some of their older products among the newer stuff. At least unlike Revell's WW1 stuff this one has colored decals. Kinda tempted to get it as well just because it's an ancient kit. Smoke fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 20:26
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Arquinsiel posted:TBH I think it's a kit-by-kit basis with all of them. I've seen people swear off every single one of those manufacturers. In that case I'd like to know which kits I should either definitely avoid or definitely get. I've already built a bunch of Revell stuff in the past(some of it pretty poo poo though) and can easily get it back home, which is why I was wondering about Airfix and Academy mostly.
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Sep 5, 2015 17:14
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Slight paint question here: Yesterday I went to a model building trade show(they had a shitload of various massive train setups, some beautiful things there, but also other stuff) Picked up the Revell Lamborghini Diablo VT. I haven't started work on it yet(working on a few other kits first), but the instructions call for the body to be painted as follows: 1) Coat body in aluminium-colored paint 2) Overlay body with transparent orange paint 3) Coat results in clear gloss I've got all of these colors readily available, but decided to test their method at first on a piece of scrap sprue. Painted the aluminium on it last night, then in the morning I covered it with transparent orange. However, the transparent orange started stripping the aluminium off after a brush or two. Is this a case of me not waiting long enough for the base coat to dry(about 10 hours or so), or am I missing something? I'm using Revell's own enamel line, unthinned, for this. Along with that, the transparent orange looked rather light and transparent rather than what I'd expect based on some casual Googling for images. I'm also painting by brush due to not having space for an airbrush setup, and no real ventilation options(Small apartment) As penance for my sins in not knowing how to layer paint properly have a picture of the 1/100 Tamiya MiG-21 I picked up in Bulgaria and finished yesterday(and am now noticing some details on that I should have done better): 
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Sep 28, 2015 17:58
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Midjack posted:I can't vouch for the drying time but you should plan on needing multiple thin coats of orange to get the effect you want. Already planned on that due to some earlier experience with the transparent orange, so I think I'll blame the drying time and test again letting it dry for at least a day or two. Good thing I have plenty of scrap plastic, partially thanks to building the Revell VW Kastenwagen earlier this year which comes with all the parts for the Samba bus(bumpers, bench seats, windows) outside of the bodywork.
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Sep 28, 2015 20:53
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Both are Revell enamels, mainly because that's what most toystores around here have available, I'd have to go to a model kit store(and there is a pretty good one not too far away, but its opening hours don't mesh with my work hours as well and it's a bit of a detour) to get anything else in terms of paint. Looks like it's a curing issue though, as previous cases of overpainting tended to have several days between them(and no issues) and thinking about it more I recall having a similar issue a while back with layering two paints. Only difference this time is that I'm using transparent paints rather than "solid".
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Sep 28, 2015 21:59
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Are they the same type of paint? Lacquer, enamel, etc.? I know that some types really don't play nicely together. You might want to check for a "candy" orange in a spray can. Might get some better results. Ended up picking up a rattlecan of Tamiya metallic orange(and some other unrelated supplies) today, after some testing with long curing times revealed that Revell's method doesn't work well for me with a brush. Gonna test this first too of course, good thing I still have a decent amount of spare plastic.
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Oct 1, 2015 14:37
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Nebakenezzer posted:e: nm, according to it is the same kit. PS> This site is excellent for finding out if the box is a old kit or a new one. The instructions for this kit explain a hell of a lot about the instructions for the 1/144 Revell A-10 I built recently: It's the exact same paintguide with less decals. The only thing is, the 1/144 doesn't have some of the physical mold details the 1/48 has. It confused the hell out of me as I was painting it, since it was instructing me to paint parts that didn't even exist on the mold.
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Oct 20, 2015 22:04
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A while back I asked for some info regarding spraypaints. This is the result:   Revell 1/24 Lamborghini Diablo VT. Bonus picture of the 1/72 Mustang P-51D that preceded it in being built:  I've still got a decent ways to go in learning how to paint I feel, but I'm slowly getting better.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:19
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I've got a Revell 1/720 USS Intrepid in half-painted status because of the camo pattern, I just haven't felt like mixing up all the paints required for it yet. Previously I also had an almost-finished 1/72 P-47 due to losing one of the bombs, ended up just removing the other one and finishing it up(and even then screwing up part of the paintjob, but at least I can call it finished) Might go back to painting it after I'm done with my current build, or just not do the camo and paint it in a single color except for the deck.
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Nov 3, 2015 13:02
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Molentik posted:Scale Modeling Thread; We are all scared of the Carpet Monsters! Tile floor, but with open stairs going down nearby. And since my PC desktop doubles at my workspace, my printer has also already tried to eat a small part once.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:17
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Seeing stuff like that always makes me think I still have a long ways to go, and I should really start learning how to build small dioramas for the models I complete.
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Nov 14, 2015 14:45
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Revell's 1/72 WWI kits have a habit of being ancient toolings with decals of about the same age(dunno if it's the same for their bigger-scale stuff) I've built this one as well, and it's as flashy and gappy as shown. Never bothered painting it since at the time I barely had any paints(Second kit I ever built), and the decals seem to be from an age where printing multiple colors per decal was some kind of advanced wizardry since you have to layer some of them(yet others are multicolor) On mine the pilot was slightly deformed as well, and the machinegun's barrel was drooping down. I've also got the Fokker D.VII which is about the same age and came with pure black and white decals, expecting you to manually paint the lozenge camo decals prior to applying. Since they're only like four Euros here I might buy another one sometime and paint it up proper, but it just doesn't seem worth the effort. Smoke fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Nov 26, 2015 |
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Nov 26, 2015 11:55
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I'd be down for Crap Plane myself. I've already built some of Revell's 1/144 modern jets, they can be had for really cheap and are fairly detailed, if quite fiddly(especially in terms of armaments) because of the scale. They make a pretty drat great F-16C. Alternatively, Revell also has a decent bunch of old 1/72 WW1 molds. They're all fairly basic and suffer terribly from mold flash and degradation, so they'd fit the crap theme(and they're about 4 euros around here)
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Dec 1, 2015 21:03
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lilljonas posted:- Miniatures/diorama Although I'd be more tempted to pick say 3 different kits in the same theme and have people choose one of them(or more if they so desire)
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Dec 2, 2015 18:00
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I'm kinda building all over the place as far as scale goes: Modern jets in 1/144 but I'm thinking of getting some in 1/72 as well, I've done a few WW1 and WW2 planes and a helicopter in 1/72, and that's not counting some other stuff(boats, passenger jets) in various different other scales. For cars I stick to 1/24 though.
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Dec 6, 2015 22:38
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Ensign Expendable posted:Is it sufficiently poopy? I thought Revell was generally good. Revell's older kits, especially the ones brought over from other companies, tend to have their own nice share of issues: Mold degradation, deformation, large amounts of flash, ill-fitting parts, missing or wrong details, sparse or nonexistent cockpits and decals, paint guides with their own set of issues... Their new stuff tends to be overall pretty good if not great, but I've learned to be wary of the older kits after building a few. Oddly enough, this set has been on my to-buy list for some time too, mainly because I've built the Revell Focke-Wulf TL-Jäger Flitzer which is of a similar design. EDIT: Gave the instructions a quick glance, and it looks like if you want to build it gears-down you'll have to cut 'em up. So much fun. Smoke fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 19:03
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lilljonas posted:The normal revell kit seems to be out of order in most places around her, yeah. Guess I'll get a crap brush and crap paints for my crap plane. To be honest, the paints aren't THAT bad since they're just Revell Aqua Color paints(although you only get three colors, so that really limits things) although you don't wanna mix them or even paint over them with any non-Revell Aqua Colors. The brush is at least somewhat decent, and the glue's also good. I've gotten a few kits like this because the molds weren't available otherwise.
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Dec 7, 2015 21:32
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Nebakenezzer posted:It is so very very craptank. DOOOOO ITTTTTTT In 2011 Airfix made a whole new tooling for the Zero though, and based on the sprues that's the new mold version. I was actually looking into buying the Zero when I was in Bulgaria, but ended up with a few other kits instead.
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Jan 5, 2016 21:46
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As a reasonably experienced Revell builder by now I can tell you that the weight is not just for that, it's also for keeping the plane level when you're building it with landing gear down and would like it to not end up pointing its nose in the air every time you put it down. Some of their kits lack this instruction. The indicated weight also tends to be a low-end estimate in a lot of cases, or there's simply no place to put it without it being in plain sight(I recently built a Bell UH-1D that needed to be weighted in the front to prevent tipping back, and the only place I could put something was in the 2 or so mm under the cockpit floor) You usually discover this right after you're mostly done and there's no way to go back and add it afterwards.
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Jan 10, 2016 23:27
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They label them as level 3 with that part count? Although I shouldn't really be surprised, Revell's difficulty level never made that much sense and seems to start at 3 for everything that's not an EasyKit. Looks like the scale is all over the place too. On the other hand, if they're cheap I might start looking for those. EDIT: Looks like they're just modified reissues of the 2007 era EasyKit line, which was prepainted and snap-together. I've assembled the TIE Interceptor from that line and it's fairly neat. Smoke fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jan 16, 2016 |
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Jan 16, 2016 19:48
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lilljonas posted:Nnnnh, all this talk about huge kits makes me want to build one. But there is nowhere in my three room apartment where my wife would be ok with me keeping it. Kinda the same problem for me. I do have a Revell 1:144 Airbus A350-900 kit ready to be built though, but that's relatively small compared to this stuff(50cm wingspan and length) It's also why I've mostly stuck to 1:144 fighters and the occasional 1:72 helicopter(and a bunch of 1:24 cars) I'm already running out of shelf space, but my girlfriend has built a few display cases for me, which should free up some space. Still wanna build something nice and big though.
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Jan 29, 2016 14:38
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So I'm working on a Revell 1/24 Citroën 2CV Charleston. It's mostly done other than general cleanup and details, but that's where I'm encountering an issue: The real version has silver trim around the doors and on the beltline, while the decals only provide trim for the bottom. I've tried painting it with my smallest brush and silver paint, but there's a bit too much spillover to get a nice result, and cleanup with a toothpick takes too much off. I'm thinking the solution to go to here is a thin silver paint pen and handle it that way. Or is there a better way I can do it with paint and brush?
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Feb 2, 2016 23:04
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Okay, possibly stupid question time. My father-in-law used to build model kits when he was younger, and he still has an unassembled wooden Mantua Models HMS Victory kit in 1:98 lying around, purchased sometime in the early 70s, in its original box(which is in an original Italian Mantua shipping box, although that has some moisture damage, the kit's own box appears to be OK, same with the instructions inside. Haven't had a chance to check the wood itself yet and I have no idea how it's been stored over the years) Googling shows that this kit is still around and can be had for around $350 new. Of course, now they wanna know what it's possibly worth these days compared to a new one. Unfortunately I can't find any decent resources, or even images of the box this old one has. It doesn't help that the model number (776) hasn't changed since the 70s either, as every reissue is under that same number. Is there any way I can help them out or would this be best left to a professional?
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Feb 13, 2016 23:11
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Yeah, I figured as much when I noticed it was still for sale. They have no intention of selling it but just think it'd be nice to know what it could be worth(the whole attic treasure thing) I'll check out the parts when I have some time, a first glance showed them looking pretty OK, but of course the risk of warping or drying is always present and not always immediately obvious. If I had any affinity with wooden models I'd ask them if I could build it, but plastic is difficult enough for me already sometimes. Also, I'd have no place to put it. Finding place for the Airbus A350 I'm working on right now was difficult enough, and that's only half as long and nowhere near as high.
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Feb 14, 2016 18:07
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I build mainly at 1/144 and Revell tends to be pretty bad with older kits, but their recent stuff is great(barring a few slight issues with including cockpit decals but not mentioning them in the instructions, or even misnumbered decals on the Eurofighter Typhoon) I recently picked up their new 1/144 F-15E(also with a ton of weaponry), it looks pretty amazing. Same with other 1/144 jets I've already built from them(Tornado, Typhoon, F-16, F-14) They're also really nice on the bigger-sized stuff, I'm working on the Revell 1/144 Airbus A350-900 at the moment and so far it's been a joy to build. On the other hand, their 1/72 WW1 and WW2 stuff is mostly ancient stuff and tends to be a hateful assembly of degraded ill-fitting molds, especially the Sopwith Triplane that's been mentioned before in this thread.
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Feb 29, 2016 20:24
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Quick question, hopefully someone has experience with both molds I'm asking about here. I'm planning to pick up another aircraft carrier to build after finally finishing the Revell USS Intrepid(1:720) a while back, as I'm nearing the end of my stash. Due to general availability in my area and not wanting to order online I'm kinda stuck with Revell's offerings. I've noticed they have the USS Nimitz both in 1:1200 and in 1:720, and I can pick up either one locally. The 1:720 mold appears to be from the 70s originally according to Scalemates and there's not all that much in terms of reliable reviews I can find, and the 1:1200 is a pretty new mold. The 1:720 version would look nicer together with the Intrepid for scale reasons and is more detailed from what I can see, but the 1:1200 looks like a better mold overall, even if it's less complex. It also takes up less space overall obviously. I'm not planning on building a waterline version, so the hull being one big part on the 1:1200 version isn't a problem. So, which one of these is the better choice?
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Mar 4, 2016 15:45
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makka-setan posted:This is the Revell UH-60A Black Hawk (04940). Don't build this kit. This warning applies to a lot of Revell helicopters. They tend to rebox old kits and hope nobody will notice. I'm pretty sure 90% of their current offering as far as helicopters go is some kind of rebox(and I'm 100% sure about the civilian 'copters on their site)
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Mar 7, 2016 23:05
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That F4U-4 looks pretty nice, I had been eyeing the current release but this version looks even better. The ERJ 195 also looks neat, and since I like passenger airplanes(recently finished the Revell Airbus A350) it's something for the wishlist as well. Gonna wait for some reviews first though.
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Mar 16, 2016 21:25
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Here's a few. To be honest, I didn't feel like mixing up the paints for the wings(and I lacked one of them anyway) so I just stuck with the base grey component, which is somewhat visible because of the sharklet decals.    EDIT: That's all handbrushed by the way, I'm nowhere near as good yet as some of the stuff I see posted in here so I'm kinda reluctant to post things I've made. Smoke fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 17, 2016 |
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Mar 17, 2016 00:13
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Here's a few older examples then. Someday I'm gonna have to sit down and try some weathering/washing techniques. These are all going back in time from the first one, the Airbus is the most recent thing I've built. Revell Bell OH-58D Kiowa. Gaps are mostly because it's an older mold with its fair share of issues.  Revell F-16C. Unfortunately the nose came damaged in-box.  Revell F-104G Starfighter. I'm not that great at camo yet either, and I have no idea what happened to the orange parts.  Revell USS Intrepid, 1944 version. I delayed painting this one for a long time because of the dazzle camo.
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Mar 17, 2016 09:55
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At least you got a swastika, even if it was a DIY version. Looks like a pretty neat kit overall, and a good paintjob. The fade works very well. I picked up the F4U-4 linked a few pages back as part of Revell's march releases(store had the Shackleton as well, but not the other two) I like this new instruction style, but as usual there's at least one error in them. At least it's more readable than trying to decipher 5 different styles of dithered black and white with the occasional letter pointing at it. It looks like it'll be fun to build as it's a fresh mold, which hopefully means no fitting issues.
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Mar 25, 2016 21:11
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Greyhawk posted:Yeah, it makes a great first impression, even has photo etch parts for the interior. I've been looking at getting this same kit at some point once I'm done with what remains of my stash. Are there any issues you've come across so far? My main problems with some Revell kits have been fitting issues, or the occasional vague instruction. And since we're on Revell, I finished the F4U-4.  Their new instruction style is pretty nice, although they don't include a gear-up build or even acknowledge that there's two bombs included other than listing the paint color and then never using it.
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Apr 17, 2016 19:39
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