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Xenomrph posted:Either one would work, to be honest. Any idea where I could buy some? Like, would a hobby supply store have one? Online stores like the War Store, etc? Microscale.com has tons of numbers and alphabets in various colors (including white).
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May 27, 2010 08:13
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They had white for drippy/messy numbers, but not for clean numbers like I'd want.
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Xenomrph posted:I just stumbled across this rust effects stuff, anyone know if it's any good/worth the money? Along those lines, I've been curious about RUSTALL. Anybody tried this stuff? Also where do you guys order your models online? I was looking for an AH-64D Apache and found a place that sold a nice looking kit (I think it was a Hasegawa) and when you selected the product, it showed accessories such as photo-etched brass parts available for the model you were looking at. Problem is, I can't remember what that site was.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:50
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Cakefool posted:Those people scare me. There was this one article I read where a fella used 4 kits to build an artillery piece, using the most accurate bits from each kit and still ended up scratchbuilding the entire cockpit with controls, then painted & weathered it & glued the hull top on. Back of the (scratchbuilt with hand-wound springs) drivers chair was just visible through the 12mm hatch. I have that one bookmarked. The level of detail and accuracy this guy strives for is something else: http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4172 Ensign Expendable posted:Can I have a link? I can't find it. If you are referring to the space barbie painting thread, it is here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=1
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Jun 23, 2010 04:40
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I had a very similar problem just a couple weeks ago. You are going to want to do this in a place where you will be able to find very tiny parts if you drop them. The spring 50-020 is tiny and can get lost very easily. Remove the main valve body from the brush by putting a wrench or pliers or whatever on part 50-013. Once that is out, use a small allen (hex) wrench to remove 50-015. Be careful not to lose the spring because it will fall out when you take 50-015 off. The rubber gasket 50-0141 should be seated snugly against the underside of the head of the needle valve 50-014. You can see in the picture that there is a little ridge that is supposed to keep it there, but running high air pressure through the airbrush can pop it loose and jam it up towards the tip of the needle valve. This can be tricky to diagnose because when the trigger is released, the spring will push the needle valve back up, which will cause the gasket to reseat itself in the correct position on the needle. When you take it apart, everything will look correct, but as soon as you put it back together and put air through it, the gasket will slide up the needle valve again and block your airflow.
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Jun 24, 2010 05:08
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Doubleposting because I'm not sure if editing will mess up the attached image.crime fighting hog posted:I clean my airbrush after each time I use it, running it under water and then leaving it cleaner for an hour or so. I think this is the cause of all your problems. That cleaner you are soaking it in could be deteriorating the rubber gasket (O ring) on the needle valve. If you are going to soak your airbrush, remove the air valve assembly and set it aside. No paint ever passes through that part of the brush, so there is no need to clean it. For cleaning, I use two of those 3oz jars and this cleaning station. The first jar is just plain water. I run that though the brush until it comes out clear, then switch to the other jar containing W&N Brush Cleaner for about 30 seconds. I'm not saying that the W&N Cleaner is the best stuff, it is just what I have and seems to work well enough. For the occasional thorough cleaning, you really only need to soak the head assembly, the needle, and the chrome part of the body. Maybe the trigger as well to remove all the cheeto gunk and boogers left behind from your grubby finger. There shouldn't be any paint anywhere else. Just remember to slide the needle forward out of the brass chuck (after you have removed the whole works from the body) so you aren't dragging a dirty needle backwards through the chuck and getting a bunch of gunk inside of it. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Jun 24, 2010 |
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Jun 24, 2010 05:38
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crime fighting hog posted:It says leave in for an hour without degradation. I usually only leave it to soak for about 40 minutes before I put it back together and start my next color. You clean it that thoroughly between each color change?  Hopefully, all you need is a new O-ring. I probably wouldn't have never figured out that was the problem with the used one I recently purchased if I didn't have an identical 150 to compare it to. I didn't really need a second airbrush, but got a deal on it for $40 including one of those little hobby compressors. I guess I didn't need the compressor, either, but for $40, I wasn't going to turn it down. I figured I'd keep one brush with a medium head/needle for basecoating and put a fine needle/head on the other for detail work. Anyway, I got the thing home and was only getting a little puff of air each time I would depress the trigger. At very low pressure (around 5 psi) I could get air through it, but if I cranked it up to 60 psi, I wasn't getting any airflow at all. I took the air valve assembly apart (after having the same "how the hell does this thing come apart?" question you did) on both brushes and everything looked identical. So I just started swapping pieces one at a time between the brushes to see where the problem would follow. That got me to the needle/gasket. Since the needles were identical, I checked the gaskets and found the bad one was a lot looser than that good one. From there, I was able to figure out what was wrong. Hopefully, it's the same for you and can be fixed with a $3 O-ring. I can't imagine anything else in the air valve assembly could go bad unless you have big gorilla hands and take out your frustrations on the trigger causing the needle to get bent - even then, it would just leak air. I'd think that complete stoppage could only be from that O ring or some foreign material getting in there and blocking the air passage.
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Jun 24, 2010 15:46
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey Skunkduster, the allen key trick worked. I took it apart and found the rubber ring had slide down a bit from the top, so I eased it back into place, put it back together and it works like new! Sweet jesus!  Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Beats the hell out of buying a whole new valve assmebly!
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Jun 26, 2010 19:32
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crime fighting hog posted:I'll say. It's still a bit leaky, because it sprays paint when I just press down Nothing in the air valve would cause it to spray paint. Is the needle fully seated in the head assembly? Also, they make 3 different sized needles and head assemblies. Is it possible you could be using a fine needle with a medium head or something along those lines?
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Jun 27, 2010 03:30
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I don't know. That's just what the the guy who made the OP refers to them as and I thought it was funny.
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Jul 2, 2010 05:37
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No no...your girlfriend is doing it wrong. You aren't supposed to use an airbrush to paint pictures of your pets.
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Aug 28, 2010 20:15
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jerkstore77 posted:I don't know jack about building boats, but I have to tell you that the inlay work you have there is absolutely beautiful!
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Sep 8, 2010 04:40
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I was thinking about getting an AH-64 Blackhawk. I recall seeing a USA website that looked to have fairly high quality models, and when you looked at the page for the model, there was a box on the right showing available accessories such as photo-etched brass detail pieces. My memory is pretty hazy, but I think the model kit was around $50 and the brass detail kit was another $30 or so. Does anybody know what online store this might have been?
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Sep 8, 2010 12:43
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compressioncut posted:Hopefully you mean AH-64 Apache (the Blackhawk is UH-60). Sprue Brothers has something like you describe http://store.spruebrothers.com/148-hasegawa-ah-64d-longbow-apache-7223-p6148.aspx Huge brainfart there. Yes, I meant the Apache. Thanks for the link! I believe that is the website I was thinking of. Looks like the detail kits are sold out anyway, so I guess that won't be a concern. Do you have any idea what that die cut paint mask is for?
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Sep 10, 2010 05:32
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Nebakenezzer posted:Has anyone seen this before? A Japanese TV show on modelling that introduces modellers with the blare of triumphant trumpets. What are those flat white strips he is cutting at 9:00?
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Sep 22, 2010 04:53
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I use this stuff that will clean dried oils and can also do acrylics with a long soak. http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-brush-cleaner-and-restorer/ Take the airbrush apart and soak it all in a bowl full of that stuff for a day or two, then do some scrubbing with one of these kits: http://www.dickblick.com/products/master-airbrush-cleaning-kit/ There might be a tiny rubber gasket in the air intake valve that you probably don't want to soak in any solvents. However, there shouldn't be any paint in the air intake valve anyway, so don't soak that. The needle, body, and head assembly should be the only things with paint on them. You may be able to use Simple Green, Gasoline, Lighter fluid, or whatever poo poo you find under your kitchen sink instead of shelling out the money for that Dick Blick cleaning solvent to dissolve the paint. However, I would recommend getting that kit with the wire brushes.
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Oct 3, 2010 01:17
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FlashBewin posted:Unless it has a setting that allows you to change how much PSI/whatever measure of unit you use, you might be getting an awful big blast of air out of an airbrush. That yellow knob below the pressure gauge is the regulator. I don't understand what you mean about an airbrush specific brand regulator. As long as it has a tank, a regulator, a hose with a fitting that fits your brush, and maybe a moisture filter, just about any compressor should work just fine.
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Dec 27, 2010 04:41
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I remember seeing a page showing how a guy detailed a cockpit by first laying down his highlight color in either acrylic or enamel, then laying down the base color in lacquer. After the lacquer dried, he used a bit of lacquer thinner on the tip of a toothpick to remove the lacquer from the bezels and tick marks on the instrument panel which would expose the highlight color. Does anybody know what I'm talking about and have a link to a page that describes that method?
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Sep 17, 2011 13:55
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That's exactly the one I was thinking of. Good thing you linked it because I had the order of the paint rear end backwards. Thanks much!
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Sep 17, 2011 17:15
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I recently started shooting lacquer through my airbrush and noticed a huge difference in how much easier it is to clean lacquers than acrylics out of an airbrush. I can get the airbrush squeaky clean right at my desk using a couple squirts of lacquer thinner and a Q-Tip, but cleaning acrylics involves a trip to the sink and metal brush scrubbers. I'm strongly considering a sonic cleaner for acrylics. Does anybody have any recommendations on which sonic cleaner to buy and what type of cleaning solution to put in it? I have a bottle of W&N Brush Cleaner that is very good at dissolving dried paint, but it is also very good at dissolving blue nitrile surgical gloves. It also has an oily feel and doesn't evaporate. It works very well as a brush cleaner, but isn't something I want to dunk my airbrush in and wait for a few days for it to dry out.
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Oct 4, 2011 17:56
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How did you do the stripes on the fuel tank?
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Oct 9, 2011 02:53
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After a 20 year break, I decided to get back into doing models. As a nerdy teenager, I liked building airplanes and painting pewter Dungeons and Dragons figures. As a nerdy adult manchild, I recently ordered a handful of Warhammer figures and vehicles from Games Workshop. I have no desire to play WH, but I thought it would be fun to paint up some of the miniatures. I was sorely disappointed when I got them and found out how terrible the quality was. I scrapped that idea and decided to work on some planes and ordered the 1:48 scale Hasegawa P-51D Mustang and F-104C Starfighter. I'm building the P51 first and am impressed with the quality and detail, but am running into a few problems I'd like some help with. I'm using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It seems like a pretty good glue, but it dries way to fast. The problem is that it is so thin, that it dries up before I get a chance to put the pieces together. Is there a comparable thin cement that has a slower drying time? Earlier in this thread, we talked about a method for detailing aircraft instrument panels using a combination of enamels and lacquers. I can get Gunze lacquers from spruebrothers.com easy enough but am having a difficult time finding enamels. The guy in the linked article uses Tamiya enamels, but the best (and only) online source in the US that I have found is to get them from Tamiya-model.com at $5.58 each. The only other option I have found is Testor's Model Master Enamels for $2.99 each from spruebrothers. The Testor's route seems like the best bet at the moment, but I'd like to know if anybody has any other suggestions for enamel paints (not spray cans). Over the weekend, I finished the cockpit and other interior stuff on the P-51 and glued the two halves of the body together. I ended up with some offset seams and gaps because I did a lovely job of clamping it. I used clothespins and rubber bands, but still ended up with some gaps and parts that weren't aligned right. I can fix those problems with CA glue, putty, files, and a lot of sanding and polishing, but I would like to avoid all that in the future by learning how to clamp it better during the glue up. There were areas where rubber bands, clothes pins, or masking tape just weren't going to cut it, so I'd appreciate it if anybody has some other suggestions for clamping during glueup. All this sanding to repair my lovely glue up job is going to wipe out some of the panel lines. I've been using an X-Acto knife with a broken tip to rescribe them, but it isn't going so well. Can anybody recommend a better tool for scribing panel lines?
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Nov 7, 2011 19:56
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Arquinsiel posted:SkunkDuster, are they actually lovely quality moulds/casts or do you just not like the models in hand? There are options either way. The casting isn't bad. I just think that GW miniatures are severely lacking in detail for the high prices they charge. I had a big post written up describing what I don't like about them, but this thread is about military scale models and I don't want to derail it with a discussion about GW miniatures. 28 Gun Bad Boy posted:So for example fit your fuselage together, then leaving a tiny gap between the pieces, put the glue in the seam with the brush. You should see it draw itself along the seam, quickly repeat until it's all glued then close the seam. That sounds like very good advice. I was using it like tube glue, but the method you mentioned makes a lot more sense. 28 Gun Bad Boy posted:Some hints here This is awesome, thank you! It's a little too late for my poor P-51, but I have an F-104C Starfighter on deck and I think that one will go together a lot better with that information in hand. If I get some confidence after finishing these two models, I'm going to move on to the Hasegawa 1:48 F-15 Eagle, F/A-18 Hornet, or AH-64 Apache. If not, maybe something easier like a F6F Hellcat or F4U Corsair is in my future.
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Nov 8, 2011 17:53
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For an air compressor, you are going to want something with a tank and a regulator. Compressors with tanks aren't just "less likely" to have pulsation problems, they don't pulsate at all. The compressor pulsates into the tank and the tank gives a steady output. Some compressors with tanks allow you to set the thresholds where the compressor starts and stops, so, say you are airbrushing at 20psi, you can set the compressor to kick on anytime the pressure in the tank drops to 30psi, which will give you a steady 20psi output with no pressure drops or pulsing. I'm not saying that you necessarily need to get a compressor that has a low-limit threshold. I'm just saying that is an option and something to consider. I'd imagine that any compressor with a tank that isn't a complete pile of poo poo is going to keep the tank at a higher pressure than what you will need with an airbrush, but I'd recommend checking what PSI the compressor kicks on at if it is not adjustable. I don't know if it was in this thread or the Warhammer thread, but somebody mentioned using a CO2 tank for an air supply mentioning that it would last 6 months between refills under daily use and maybe even a year for doing hobby work. At $30 per refill, plus deposit on the tank and the cost of a regulator, this is sounding like a VERY good idea to me in exchange for silence and lowered electricity costs. My only hesitation is that I know my airbrushes have very slight air leaks. It isn't perceptible, but if I leave the line pressurized when I'm done for the day, the compressor will kick on every couple of hours. That gets my attention and tells me to go downstairs to turn the valve off, but if I was using a CO2 tank, I wouldn't have that reminder. People also talk about an inline moisture filter. I'm in Minnesota where it gets skin cracking dry through the seven months of winter we have and not much better in the summer, so I've never used one and never had any problems. I wouldn't say that a moisture filter is an absolute necessity - it just depends on your environment. For the airbrush itself, it comes down to single vs. dual action and gravity vs. siphon feed. I can't think of any good reason to choose single action over dual action, so my vote is 100% for dual. I use a pair of Badger 150s that are both siphon fed, and have never used a gravity fed brush, so I can only give my opinion based on experience with that and what I have read about gravity fed brushes. From what I can tell, the #1 advantage of siphon brushes is ease of cleaning. It seems to me that cleaning is much easier with a siphon fed brush because the paint cups/jars are removable. Once you are done with the paint, you can just pop out the paint cup and toss it in the sink, then pop in a jar containing your cleaner of choice and spray it through to clean it up. Maybe it is just as easy to clean a gravity brush, so I'm all ears if somebody familiar when them wants to clue me in. The biggest disadvantage of siphon feed brushes, as I can tell, is wasted paint. Even when the cup is out of paint and sucking air, there are still quite a few drops of paint between the bottom of the cup, the tube of the cup, and the body of the airbrush. The amount of paint left over between the cup and the nozzle may actually negate the cleaning advantages of having removable cups/jars because you have that much more poo poo to clean out. I'd be interested in hearing from somebody with experiences with both types in regards to cleaning. Cleaning isn't something that is focused on in airbrush reviews I've seen, but it is a very big aspect of owning and using an airbrush. Air pressure - vote goes to gravity fed: Suction feed brushes require higher PSI to pull the paint out of the cup than gravity brushes. No biggie, because you can just turn the knob on your compressor to get that extra push, right? Well, yes, but the other factor is that you are blasting your model with a lot of extra air along with the paint causing it to dry faster - and often too fast. You can drop the pressure down on a suction brush for slower drying, but then you are skirting on the line between atomizing paint and spattering it. This can be overcome by keeping the pressure high and holding the brush closer and using a more narrow spray pattern, but if you hold it too close and/or spray too much paint then you get that spider web spray which fucks everything up. I use retarders to slow drying time, but that just adds an extra variable to the whole voodoo magic of thinner/paint/pressure/distance/spray/retarder equation. It would be simpler to just reduce the pressure and use a gravity fed brush.
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Dec 6, 2011 19:47
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PicnicBasket posted:I'm working on an Italeri F-15C that will be both airbrushed and hand painted, and can provide pictures of the process when I finish. I'd like to see some WIP pictures. Too many tanks and not enough planes in this thread!
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Feb 14, 2012 18:35
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who cares posted:I finished my Corsair a few days ago. That looks very nice! I'm far from an expert on insignia, but I assume the arrow on the tail designates which carrier that planes is based on. Is that correct? Does the arrow on the wing indicate the same thing? I don't recall ever seeing insignia on the wings and it is kind of curious.
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Mar 11, 2012 10:11
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No Pun Intended posted:
I haven't used the Tamiya putty, so I can't make any comparisons. I got a tube of Squadron Green because that's what I had when I was a kid and the smell brings back nostalgic memories. It works okay for larger seams or holes. Dries hard and sands out pretty well. It may not be the best, but worth a try if you can find a tube for $3-4. I also tried Squadron Gray, but I think the tube had been sitting on the store shelf for several years and got funky. The tube I have is poo poo, but a fresh tube might be great stuff. Last fall, I ordered 40ml jars of Mr. Surfacer 500, 1000, and 1200. The 1200 is fantastic for an airbrush primer (when thinned with lacquer thinner) and the 500 is excellent as a brush on seam filler. I have just been applying 500 as a seam filler with a brush and sanding it down and haven't tried using any solvents, but this page gives a writeup on his results with various methods and solvents. He does say, "Methylated Spirits might be a little out of the range of practicality for most modelers", which isn't true at all. Methylated Spirits is another name for Denatured Alcohol and you can pick up a quart of it for under $10 at the hardware store. Mr. Surfacer 500 seems kind of expensive ($13 for a 40ml bottle on Amazon), but one bottle is going to last a long time unless you are doing something really wrong.
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Apr 10, 2012 18:02
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Morgenthau posted:Just finished my Sea Harrier the other day and it turned out to be quite a neat little kit for like 8 months worth of work. I need to build faster... That looks very nice! I like the striking color scheme. Is that a 1:72 kit? I know what you mean about building faster. I've been working on a 1:48 P51 Mustang for almost 6 months and I haven't even gotten to the landing gear, drop tanks, canopy, or propeller yet 
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May 1, 2012 11:33
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Nebakenezzer posted:I've tried this before, but my personal liquid mask sucks. What are the cool kids using to mask? I've used Micro-Mask with good results. I mostly have used it for masking areas that will be glued and haven't tried a large surface like the water lines on a boat. It says not to use it with water-based paint, but I haven't run into any problems using with acrylics applied with an airbrush.
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Aug 2, 2012 19:12
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Bruiser posted:What am I going to need other than an Xacto knife set, brushes, decent cement, a drop cloth, and some files? The tool I use the absolute most is an old airbrush needle. It's my paint stirrer, scraper, parts holder (not my picture, but you get the idea), paint bottle unclogger, and sometimes glue applicator. A little more on the expensive side, this sonic cleaner is very useful. I'm not saying that's the best one out there, it is just the one I have and seems to work pretty well. Even after going through a 2-3 stage cleaning process with my brushes, I'll put them in the sonic cleaner and paint will come seeping out of the ferrule. The sonic cleaner works with the lid open, so if I'm using solvent based paint, I'll just set the jar of solvent in the water (kind of like a double boiler) and hold the brush in the solvent jar while it hums away. The sonic waves vibrate the solvent inside the jar, so it works just fine and is a lot less wasteful than filling up the whole sonic cleaner with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner or whatever. Other than that, some other cheap common supplies handy to have around are: Q-Tips Disposable eyedroppers Paper Towels Windex Sandpaper Masking tape (I like Frog Tape) For paint, I'd go with acrylics. I mostly use Vallejo Model Colors. There is a time and a place for enamel and lacquer, but acrylics will hold you over until then. I had the brilliant idea to insert a 1/8" stainless ball bearing into each of my paint dropper bottles to act as an agitator. It works well for mixing the paint, but I found that when I turn the bottle upside-down to squirt the paint out, the bearing drops into the nozzle and acts as a ball valve to block the paint flow. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Dec 4, 2012 |
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Dec 4, 2012 10:09
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There are two different 1/32 F4F Wildcats in the Hyperscale Gallery. One by Revell and the other by Trumpeter. Both have the option to fold the wings, although the Trumpeter is the only one where the modeler actually folded them.
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Feb 4, 2013 14:14
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I'm happy to see all the planes being posted over the last few pages. I would like to contribute, but I made a couple of very critical errors on a 1:48 Hasegawa P-51 after getting back into modeling after 25 years and am not at all proud of the results. Either I am retarded, or getting a realistic metallic finish with Alclad II aluminum is a hell of a lot harder than it looks. I hosed it up pretty good and that killed all my motivation. That model sat on my bench untouched for 6-7 months before I admitted to myself that I was never going to finish it and dropped it in the trash. My next model on deck is a fairly simple 1:48 Hasegawa F6F Hellcat with a standard blue/light blue flat color scheme. I have an F-104 Starfighter (Man on a missle) in the box as well, but I think I am going to go with a camo color scheme instead of bare metal until I figure out how to get a good metallic finish with Alclad. I wasn't a great modeler in the first place and getting back into this is harder than I thought it would be. I hope to put together a few more simpler WWII planes (F6F Hellcat, F4U Corsair, B-24 Liberator, B-25 Mitchell) and then move on to two of my favorites - F-15 Eagle and an AH-64 Apache when I have more confidence. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 22:28
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It turned out looking almost exactly the same as silver paint out of a rattlecan. I'm guessing the problem is that they recommend using a gloss black enamel basecoat for polished aluminum and I used gloss black lacquer. I polished the hell out of the basecoat using automotive polishes and cleaned it very well before applying the Alclad, so it wasn't a result of the basecoat being dirty or not glossy enough. It could also be a result of using a siphon fed brush which requires higher PSI than what they recommend. I'm going to wait until I get a gravity fed brush, then buy the recommended enamel basecoat before I try again. There was also a problem of this strange blemish on the side of the fuselage below the canopy that bore a striking resemblance to the thumbprint of my left hand. edit: I was just looking on the web and found a post by a guy that says he uses a lacquer base coat with great results, so maybe it has more to do with the air pressure being too high. I'll just have to experiment on some plastic spoons until I get it right. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Mar 9, 2013 |
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Mar 9, 2013 08:32
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That looks awesome! Can you get any more pictures of the interior? Does the license plate have any significance or did you just use the default decals? It is cool to see more planes, trains, and automobiles in the thread.
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Mar 10, 2013 16:07
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There were (are?) two types of Testors model glue. The stuff in the orange tube that smelled good and Orangey and the stuff in the blue tube that smelled like brain melting chemicals. I always thought that Squadron Green Putty smelled pretty good, too. Must be the toluene.
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Mar 21, 2013 12:06
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I'm looking at Sprue Brothers for detail kits for a 1/48 Hasegawa F6F-3 Hellcat. The model number of the kit is 9134, but all of their detail kits are for different model numbers. As long as the scale is correct, does it really make any difference if it was designed for kit XXX and I use it for kit YYY?
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Mar 24, 2013 18:17
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Jonny Nox posted:http://www.scalehobbyist.com/ Awesome website, great selection, shipping less than $10 per order. I use their website to see what is out there, but have never ordered because Wow, thanks for that link! I had been looking at spruebrothers and thewarstore for "stuff" and getting models from Amazon, but that website is very well organized and with good prices. I'll be going to them first from now on. I am kind of wondering if I am missing aftermarket cockpits for aircraft on that site. The only one I saw was for an F6F-5 Hellcat. That is convenient because I just finished building the cockpit of a Hasegawa F6F-3 and wasn't happy with it. I'm more concerned with having a nice looking model than historical accuracy (which is also why I am not painting every surface in the interior zinc chromate/interior green  ), so sticking a -5 cockpit in a -3 model is just fine with me. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places, but I'd expect to see aftermarket cockpits for most every common plane, but the only other ones I saw were for bombers. Am I just using the wrong filters, or do they really not have full cockpits for popular stuff like F-15s and P-51s?Edit: Nevermind, I was able to find them by searching for the type of plane and then narrowing it down. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 05:21
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George Zimmer posted:You could probably make an air racing P-51 pretty easily. Just for the hell of it, I've really been kicking around the idea of painting a P-51 Mustang in Richard Petty's livery, and then either a Charger or 1968 Daytona up like a P-51 Mustang complete with metal skin, panel lines, and rivets. The plane probably wouldn't be that hard, but I'm going to need a lot more experience under my belt with Alclad, carving panel lines, and doing rivets before I would attempt the car.
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Apr 9, 2013 04:53
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space pope posted:I finally finished a few kits the last few weeks. Here is a 1/49 Monogram Mosquito that I made as a night-fighter. Some Microset and Microsol would really help those decals conform to the panel lines and stick to the model. I haven't tried this yet, but here is an interesting method of using enamel washes and very thin coats airbrushed on to tone down the bright colors and contrast of decals and make them look a lot more natural: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/Su27/day24.htm
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Apr 22, 2013 03:31
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That looks real nice! Did you use any of the tips from this site? He has a lot of nice techniques that I'd like to dip my toes into and am wondering if you had used his tips and had any thoughts about them. A Hind is on my wish list after I gain some more skill and confidence from my 25 year hiatus of model building. Who made that kit you did and what scale is it? Was it a good kit, or would you have gone with a different one if you had to do it all over again? I'm looking at this 1/48 kit and am wondering if it is a good kit or if it is just an exercise in frustration. From my foggy memory of the 80s, it seemed like Monogram were the good kits and Revell were crap, but now they are the same company and I don't know what to think. [/quote]
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May 7, 2013 04:45
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Molentik posted:Are there others here that do 1/6th (Battle Barbie)scale? I've never done it, but I have to say, that is some fantastic paint work you have going there!
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May 16, 2013 02:50
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