Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

I hope this is the right thread to ask in and if it�s not my bad and I�ll delete my post but it looked like the closest thing in this sub; I�m looking to get into model trains like Lionel and was wondering if there�s some good reading material or a good starting place to springboard from? I have no experience with them but it�s been something I�ve been interested in as a kid but have always been kind of too embarrassed because of the stigma attached to it to really get involved beyond looking at catalogs and news letters until now

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Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

I�d like to do a setup with a more permanent layout with scenes/scenery around the tracks. Eventually I may go the route of having a more active role in switches and dispatching of the trains but I�m not going for anything super realistic scene wise. I�m looking more to do a layout that will be typical of a train set but have a kind of flight of fantasy running through it like a crashed UFO surrounded by Men in Black style 1950�s agents hidden in some woods as just a random example. The trains will probably be the biggest focus in that the train track layouts will affect the scenes more so then the scenery dictating train track layout I suppose. I only use Lionel as an example because it was really the only train set manufacturer I was exposed to as a kid so if there are better options out there I�d be more then willing to also look into them

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Southern Heel posted:

Hey, I'm probably one of those model rail guys, albeit in England.

The unique selling point of model rail is that it is interactive and moveable after it is 'complete'. Of course you can put them on a plinth on a shelf, or sit in a cough-mixture induced haze and watch trains circulate a figure of eight on a sheet of 8' x 4' chipboard, but by far the most rewarding aspect is operating your railroad.

This is alot less cringey than it sounds. Essentially you aim to build your layout in such a way that it provides scope for either puzzles (think Tower of Hanoi with rails, AKA "Inglenook Sidings" or "Timesaver") or roughly to approximate a real rail operation. For example, you might have a layout that is some staging 'off layout', and then 'on layout' a freight yard with cold store, caboose track, and a brewery. Your train arrives and you then busily sort all the wagons in to the right place while shifting all the empties back into your train, and exit scene left. It's very relaxing and an enjoyable way to get mileage out of your models once they're complete.

If the idea of that attracts you, then you could do alot worse than picking up one of the Model Railroader 'Beginner Railroad' books. The only thing I will emphasise over and over is that you should NOT go for a monolithic board in the middle of the room unless you have a handy billiards table. It is MUCH more space efficient to have it going around on shelves (or even a set of trestles)!

Yeah this sounds much more attractive to me then creating an accurate diorama kind of static piece. I viewed the scenes as simply adding to to the control of the trains rather then being the main draw so I�ll definitely look into those books. Thank you!

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

I hope this is the right thread to ask but I�d like to start doing monster model kits but I�m not really sure where to even start. Are there any resources or books or videos for a complete and utter beginner out there I can look over to see both the kinds of tools I�ll need as well as construction and painting tips?

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Go check out The Clubhouse. Sign up for a forums account there, and you'll have years of peoples posts with tips and tricks and displays of their garage kits. Best resource on the internet for painting statues and busts of pop culture characters. They also having an amazing marketplace section where you can pick up limited run garage kits that you won't find anywhere else in the world.

If you want something a bit different, you could give Amazing Figure Modeler magazine a look. They're no longer a print mag, but they still put out PDF mags quarterly. Top quality work on display, and every article is an exhaustive how-to guide on how the artist created the model on display. They also sell the old ModelMania DVD's. Obviously old and low-res as hell by todays standards, but they're a fun and informative resource where David Fisher teaches you the basics and advanced techniques for constructing and painting kits.

Thanks! I did end up ordering that DVD just cause seeing it visually, even if dated, helps me learn better

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

What�s a good compressor/air brush combo for a beginner? I don�t wanna buy junk that I�ll have to replace for better stuff in like a month but I also don�t need like a $1,000 top of the line airbrush either since I�m just starting

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Dang, thanks everyone for all the advice. Hoping to get my tools this week with a nice work bonus coming my way

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

I do have one for regular tool use like a nail gun but it couldn�t stay where my model station is gonna be, it�s super heavy to drag up two sets of stairs, and it�s very loud and upsets my dog so I�m gonna get one I can keep with my other tools

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Last dumb idiot babby question: is there a good break down of the tools I should be picking up to start scale modeling? I'm off tomorrow so I'd like to hit up my local hobby store to start on the path of making scaled monsters

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Went and got all my supplies from my local hobby shop, which was super friendly and helpful. Got an airbrush, compressor, paints, thinner, primer, self healing cutting mat and all tools I had been suggested

Think I�ve got everything so I�m setting up my space now to do a low skill phantom of the opera model. Just wanted to say thanks for everyone here answering so many of my questions, it was super helpful

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Yeah, that�s it. I wanna do monster and horror figures, I know it�s lame sorry :blush:

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 1, 2023 19:56

Took a week to get everything and get everything setup but my space is finally all ready to go. Just need to decide if I want to use and paint the normal parts or use the glow in the dark pieces

I T B E G I N S

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 2, 2023 17:46

Newbie question on air brushes: the one I got from my local hobby story is an Anthem 155. Seeing as I�m doing figures and not machines I figured I�ll mostly be using it to do convincing flesh/scales/biological things and fabrics so I figure it being a siphon feed would be okay but posting a question on Reddit it seems like I�ve committed a cardinal sin by not getting a gravity fed airbrush. Before I use it and thus make it unable to be exchanged is a siphon fed system really that bad? Or is it just hyperbole because internet nerds?

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 2, 2023 19:32

Skunkduster posted:

I have a siphon feed Badger 150 that I got in the late 80s and I used it for years because I didn't know any better. I bought an Iwata HP-CS gravity feed maybe 10-15 years ago and haven't touched a siphon feed since. The two main advantages are that a gravity fed brush can run a lower air pressure and it is much easier to clean. Cleaning the 150 was a pain in the rear end and discouraged me from using it. The only advantage I could see with a siphon feed airbrush is that they can use a jar as a reservoir for the paint if you need to lay down a LOT of paint. Another problem with Badger is that the air fittings are smaller than than the industry standard, so you'll need to buy hoses and adapters that are specifically made to work with Badger airbrushes. I'm not trying to knock Badger as a company. Their airbrushes are high quality and I've heard their customer support is excellent. Knowing what I know, I still bought a Badger Sotar 20/20 and use it on occasion when I need very fine lines. Since you are doing figures and small scale work, the Sotar 20/20 would be a good airbrush as it can do extremely fine lines and also dump out a lot of paint for priming. The only downsides are that the paint cup is very small (which might not be a problem for you), and you might need to get an adapter or two depending on your setup.

All that being said, I agree with the redditors that a gravity feed brush is much better than a siphon feed for scale modeling. The Sotar 20/20 is a great airbrush, but I mainly use my Iwata HP-CS because of the larger paint capacity in the cup and I find that it is easier and quicker to clean.

Thanks, my store does have a Sotar 20/20-2F in stock so I think I'll go exchange that later today or possibly even keep the 155 anyway as a primer/base coater if the 20/20 has a small capacity

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 2, 2023 20:26

grassy gnoll posted:

You could easily prime an entire 1/35 tank with the cup capacity of a Sotar, it'd just take forever unless you got one of the larger nozzle-needle sets.

A siphon airbrush is for things you'd want to use the equivalent of an entire bottle of model paint on in one go. Super great if you're doing human-sized props, less so for models.

Alright, I�ll just do an exchange then. Thanks for all the answers

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 3, 2023 01:03

Oh the 155 I have came with that little color cup actually

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 3, 2023 04:04

Arquinsiel posted:

If by "figures" you mean like wargames miniatures then siphon fed brushes are basically for basecoating and nothing else.

No, I mean larger scale model monster figures like this The Fly one

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 3, 2023 21:02

Do they still call their miniatures �Jewels of Wonder� or whatever the gently caress they used to excuse their prices?

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 4, 2023 04:08

Another dumb newbie question, sorry. I have the Tamiya acrylics for airbrushing but will they be okay for the small details that absolutely require a brush or for dry brushing? I looked online and from searching everyone says you can't do brushing with them and I'm wondering if that applies to any brush work or just using them for large brush work like base coating?

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 5, 2023 04:36

Maybe I should just buy some Vallejos and save myself the worry

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 5, 2023 15:07

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Well, try both. Half of hobbies is experimenting and finding out what works and what doesn't, and discovering something new along the way. Even the top modelers in the world will be done wrong by a product now and again, but messing around leads to new techniques and skills.

Alright. I�ll attempt using both just to see. I might even prefer using both for various things anyway. I just like to get off on good habits when starting something new just so I don�t have to unlearn bad habits down the line (like when I started learning mandolin)

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 6, 2023 00:52

I�m building my model in pieces and I have noticed that there is lips sometimes between the pieces when they join

It�s not flash, just the pieces aren�t flush when connected at points. Is that fixable with some putty and sanding?

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 6, 2023 01:08

mllaneza posted:

That's exactly what putty and sandpaper are for.

Okay, awesome! And again thanks for answering these really dumb, basic questions everyone

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 7, 2023 00:21

How are Badgers own line of paints? I was browsing another hobby shop a little further away due to visiting some family and when I mentioned monsters the guy at the counter said Badger has Freak Flex paints are pigments made specifically for horror figures but I can�t seem to find anything online that on how they actually look or flow through an airbrush

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 7, 2023 03:08

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

I've never used them myself, but they definitely feel like a last-gen paint. You'd read a lot about people using them to paint statues 20 years ago. I've never heard of anyone using them in the last decade, amongst the pros or the hobbyists.

The times I did hear people using them ages ago, it was always about how finicky they were to get working.

I'd say the modern equivalent of a paint the pros use for statues and busts would be Tim Gore's Bloodlines series of paints, from Createx. Garage Kit Colors US was hugely popular, but they've recently split from their paint manufacturer Lifecolor, and will just be selling kits now. Lifecolor paints themselves are supposed to be very nice, but they're aimed at taxidermists and not the easiest/cheapest paints to find around.

The Createx Bloodline and Lifeline paints have a bunch of colors I was looking at too, thanks for the suggestion. Do you know if they behave with a Mr. thinner leveling thinner?

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 7, 2023 13:19

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

No! They are a very unique paint, and you ONLY want to use their branded thinner with them. They related to acrylics, but they have a very unique chemistry, and water and typical acrylic thinners aren't great for them. Lacquer thinners like Mr Leveling Thinner will curdle them.

You don't even really need thinners though. They are a true "airbrush ready" paint, and not like how most paint lines say their air-paints are airbrush ready, but they never truly are. Bloodline/Lifelines are very thin right out of the bottle. Their branded thinners are more for traditional airbrush artists doing 2D art and running paint through a miniscule 0.1 needle or smaller airbrush.

Oh alright, so running it through like a sotar 20/20 with the fine needle shouldn�t be an issue than straight from their bottle

Dr. VooDoo · # ¿ Apr 9, 2023 18:09

Slowly getting there. Gotta figure out how those legs sit in the torso. Then it�s masking, putty, and sanding before priming

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

This is mine, luckily I just did a general cleanup the other day.

One day I�d love to have such a big setup

As for my own I only just started but it�s kind of startling how quickly it�s kind of grown already:

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

If I�m airbrushing everything but small details, which I�d paint with Vallejo model colors, would a wet palette be worth it or since I�m not brush painting large areas will a tile and a water pot be more the route to take

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Speaking of enamels I never asked: what�s the difference between acrylic and enamels for model paints? Is one better than the other? Or does the type of model dictate when to use one or the other?

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

One of the bottles of Createx paint I ordered showed up busted so I�m getting it replaced for free but I decided to use the busted bottle for an excitement as I also got the Createx 4012 reducer and their 4030 balancing clear, which is recommended to spray on hard surfaces, included for free.

The left cup is just 10 drops of paint, the middle is 10:1 paint to the balancing clear agent, and the right cup it 10:1:1 paint to balancing clear to reducer

This is after letting the cups sit for a few minutes. I�ve never mixed up paint for airbrushing so what kind of consistency looks best?

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Ok, thanks all!

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

I love it. I love monsters, dinosaurs, slashers, kaijus, and giant bugs. Seems like that makes me limited in the model sphere but I don't care feed me more giant bugs, youtube man

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

quote:

Awesome dino models

If I didn�t know any better I would say you guys are enablers :v:

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

This is gonna be some babby modeler level posting but: I was skeptical that the seams and uneven sections of this model would line up even with sanding, I was sure I messed it up but now I�m looking at a completely smooth arm with no visible seam at all and I feel like I have the biggest brain in the universe. Real good feeling

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

FrozenVent posted:

It�s amazing isn�t it?

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Warmachine posted:

Shot.

Chaser.

In my own example, you buffed out the seam line, but now you have sanding scratches and you're missing a few steps of high-grit.

I got a pack of these little guys to use after sanding. I have a tiny fine mist bottle. You give one pump or two on the surface and then go through the grits from the least to finest and you end up with a polished plastic surface with no marks

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

�I�m just going in to get some clear matte and gloss spray, that�s it� I tell myself, entering my hobby shop, until seeing they got a shipment of new kits in today and leaving with a The Fly monster kit

This is dangerous

Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

So as I�m going through my model to sand and fill gaps and seams I�ve noticed I actually way too nervous about using too much glue and used too little in parts resulting in seams that are barely together with little strings of melted plastic holding them together instead of a solid fuse. So now I�m having to go back and apply glue to them again and squeeze to fit them down better before I can actually work on the seam in earnest

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Dr. VooDoo · Dr. VooDoo May 4, 2006

Dumb question but is Vallejo liquid mask just their brand version of like mold builder liquid latex rubber? I�ve seen some people use that for masking on complex figure parts when taping really isn�t viable but if I can get a bigger tub of the mold builder compared to the Vallejo I�ll go that way to save money