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I’ve got my IH Paystar tractor built and the logging trailer. Doing the whole thing in an industrial yellow and will start painting/muddying up from there. Here it is before getting the cab done. With the trailer attached it is loooong. https://imgur.com/a/TsebRqh
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Mar 20, 2024 01:50
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:52 |
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neurotech posted:Does anyone have any tips for cutting XPS foam (without a hot wire), specifically shapes like squares/rectangles? I currently just use my hotwire for foam cutting but I hope to soon get a table top hot wire foam cutter for this purpose. It's like a small band saw that's designed for cutting foam. You can get them for around 100 dollars-ish, give or take. EDIT - thank you to whomever recommended the Tamiya 1/350 class Fletcher as a ship to build. Thing builds like a dream and is a lot of fun! Looking forward to painting it. ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Mar 21, 2024 |
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Mar 21, 2024 14:00
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Darth Brooks posted:How big are the walls? A thicker plastic "For Sale" sign glued to some coraplast would hold up. If you know of a local sign shop they might have some coroplast scrap. The Mack turned out fantastic and those details are on point! I am close to finishing my IH Paystar logging truck build but I'm burnt out on it as I'm working on three r/c racing vehicles for the upcoming season and my Tamiya Dragon Wagon arrives today (I'll post pics of it!)....so I think I'm going to just set it aside for awhile. Everything is done on it save for the hood latches which broke off the sprues when cutting them free, so that's annoying. Due to the parts being tiny and chromed, it makes repair extremely hard so I may just lave the latches off. Outside of that and a couple other small things, it's close. I plan to display it hauling logs on a small diorama base eventually. Until I feel like finishing it though, I'll just have it sitting on my desk like this, with the log bunk in the stowed position. Semi trucks are fun builds, but they all seem fairly involved (at least the few I've built) and are projects best to be tackled when I'm feelin' it.  All that said, I CANNOT WAIT to build the Dragon Wagon. I've eyed one of those kits for many years, even when I wasn't modeling.
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Mar 26, 2024 14:29
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Hell yeah it's finally here
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Mar 26, 2024 23:15
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Lord Ludikrous posted:Thank you! If you’re experienced with R/C cars and are more comfortable building at a larger scale you should consider getting into R/C tanks. They aren’t the cheapest thing on the planet but they’re rewarding projects that offer a chance to really make it your own. You can get out as much as you put in, and some opt to go super duper accurate down to the most minute details, while others are happy to get them working to a decent standard out of the box and go plowing through some mud somewhere. There’s a number of companies that produce them but there are four main ones that you’ll commonly see: Lord Ludikrous posted an excellent primer on RC tanks so I'm reposting it for him.
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Mar 28, 2024 14:22
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Thanks to the goon who several pages ago recommended I build a Tamiya Fletcher as my first 1/350 ship. I have finished the build, not just have to add paint. I'll probably get out the airbrush next week. In the meantime, time to figure out which ship to build next! 
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Apr 14, 2024 00:06
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Raskolnikov38 posted:looks great. one thing i love about the tamiya kit is that they put the rubber gimmicks they use to make tank tracks rotate freely into the fletcher's turrets so you can spin them around. the trumpeter kit has you glue them in place Thanks. Yeah the turrets spin but some of them are pretty loose so I may just glue them if they give issue when painting. Speaking of painting, do most of you guys just build everything and then paint, at least with military vehicles? I feel like when I'm doing cars/trucks I try and paint as I go along but recently it's caused issues because mounting/gluing painted pieces can create some really nasty issues when it's time for final assembly. Painting the destroyer all at once is gonna be the first time I've tried painting everything after it's built. Will be the same with my 1/700 ships. Also, what is the recommended photo uploading service for SA these days to where it's easy to do it via phone?
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Apr 15, 2024 19:48
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Thanks for the input, much appreciated. Going forward I'll stick to subassemblies most likely, but I'm gonna have to do the whole thing at once with the Fletcher and a 1/700 Yorktown that I just finished as well. Question- I'm experienced with CA glue, but primarily for my r/c vehicles as it's used to glue tires to wheels. As such, while I have plenty of CA glue I have nothing in the way of precision applicators to where I'd be comfortably putting it on a model. I've seen folks use toothpicks so yeah, I've got some of those, but how are the Tamiya CA applicators? Those look like just the ticket.
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Apr 16, 2024 16:48
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I'm still mulling over getting an r/c tank as I know it will be a slippery slope. How is Heng Long with parts support? Is it relatively easy to get stuff?
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Apr 29, 2024 14:55
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Ok cool, yeah I was looking at a Tiger 1. I had always wanted to do a Tamiya 1/16 Tiger 1 but never enough to invest that kind of jack in something that really, for the most part at least, would be a static model that I'd rarely drive.
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Apr 29, 2024 18:22
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I am very close to pulling the trigger on a Heng Long professional edition tank- either a Tiger 1 or 2. Worst case, it'll be a sweet 1/16 sitting on my bench to display! After building several Tamiya 1/700 waterline ships as well as a 1/350 destroyer and struggling to paint them all, I'm shifting back to 1/35 tanks for awhile. I'll get around to painting some of the ships in due time. I find that with how ships need to be painted as they go along, that I need to be in a specific mood to do them, kind of like building/painting semi trucks and other automobiles. Tanks are different vibe. I like how I can for the most part I can just assemble them completely and then do all the paint at the end and therefore just constantly be in a state of building them and it's fine. I really dig doing ships, but I think I may focus on them during the winter when I have more time indoors for projects.
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May 9, 2024 15:19
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Nice! I use a cheapo Paasche as well for priming, or running weird paints through that I don't want in my Iwata. They're cheap enough, especially when they're on sale, that you can get a few for different tasks. One for primer, one for metallics, one for sealers, etc etc. Real workhorse of an airbrush. I have actually been wondering if folks use different airbrushes at the same time to make jobs quicker. I use a knock-off Iwata harbor freight brush that's like 25 dollars and it's been great. To speed up jobs, I've been mulling over picking up a couple more so one could be a permanent primer brush, one a permanent clear brush, etc, and maybe have two for different colors I'm shooting. Maybe that's a lot but at the very least I'm probably going to pick up a second brush to have on hand so I can easily swap between two colors when needed without having to clean-up between them.
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May 13, 2024 13:50
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My whole airbrush experience has been such a wacky one. My first attempt at airbrushing was in the late 90's or early 2000's, I forget which, when I picked up a crappy canned air Testors kit at a department store. Upon trying it out, the hose shot off and I got paint all over my parent's kitchen. Back to rattle can jobs for the next, oh 20ish years! I was mainly painting r/c bodies, so rattle can got me by good enough. A few years ago as I started to get into scale static modeling, just doing rattle cans wasn't gonna work so I figured fine, I'll invest in a nice airbrush setup. I got a Paasche Talon and good compressor from a local hobby shop and it worked great the first time I used it, but then it never shot right after. I'm sure this is because I didn't clean it correctly at the time, but it was a nightmare of constant reassemblies, etc. I even picked up a sonic cleaner at my buddies urging and it still would not function properly. I again assumed that airbrushing just wasn't for me. Last year once I REALLY started to get into scale modeling and needed an airbrush as a tool to use, I figured it just can't be that hard so I must've been doing something very wrong before. I watched a bunch of youtube tutorials on how to thin and clean airbrushes and then went to Harbor Freight to pick up the cheap Iwata clone to give another, this time more informed, try. It's been fantastic. I make sure to thin paints at a correct ratio, I shoot at a proper pressure, and always make sure I clean immediately. Everything works fantastic. Both my static model and r/c body paint game is improving. I'm at the point where I probably need to start experimenting with different nozzle tips, and therefore probably should jump up to an Iwata kit that has several. I'm guessing that I jacked up the Paasche with a bad combination of shooting paint that was too thick, allowing it to dry, shooting at improper pressures, probably not totally proper re-assembly. Basically every mistake I could make. Been smooth sailing since I've course corrected, though. That Harbor Freight brush takes minimal work and shoots really nicely. PS - if one of you would be interested in my Andy's Sherman 1/16 Sherman Easy 8 kit, I have one that aside from me doing like the first step, it's brand new. I'm going to be moving into 1/16 r/c tanks so I dont really need the static one. I was going to post it on my local FB marketplace, but if you one of you wanted it I'd ship it UPS for $80. Shoot me a pm if you'd like.
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May 13, 2024 18:50
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:52 |
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That old school lead model is awesome. I bet it weighs a freakin' ton compared to the typical plastic fare!
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May 15, 2024 21:31
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