|
HondaCivet posted:When it comes to stuff like the vet, you sometimes just can't really be nice about it. Heck, even non-feral cats usually have to be dragged to the vet so you shouldn't feel bad. Other than that, there are a billion great guides online for working with ferals. There are lots of organizations around the country (Alley Cat Allies, Urban Cat League, etc.) that offer resources on their websites so check those out. Pretty sure its recommended to have food available 24/7 until a cat is about 1 year old. Then you can transition to feeding times if you want.
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2009 05:33
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 01:05 |
|
|
Cats and kittens will always act starving if there is a new tasty food available. When my kitten was sick and had a low appetite, I could fool him by the simplest thing. He'd eat a bite or 2 of food (super stinky prescription wet food), and not want anymore... until I would pick up the dish and put it 6-12 inches away. OMG new food! He'd eat another bite or 2, and we'd repeat 5 or 6 times until he ate it all.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2009 07:25
|
|
|
I find a little fan does wonders for dispersing cat box stink. I also just tried some (new) Tidy Cats Power Blend, which was a dollar more than the regular Tidy Cats formula, and it really does the trick. But, it's not flushable...unless you are an evil renter that doesn't care if the plumbing gets messed up. And seconding that kitten poo poo smells 10 times worse than cat poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2009 03:26
|
|
|
soj89 posted:I'm looking to adopt a cat but I've never owned a pet before. I want to make sure I do everything right so input from those with experience would be much appreciated. A rescue tends to foster cats, so they know their personality better. They also guarantee to take the cat back if there is a problem, even 10 years down the road. This gives me piece of mind that my cat has a spot at a no-kill rescue if I end up penniless with cancer or something. Ask around for shelter/rescue reputations. Some are good, some are bad. A good place to start would be your vet. soj89 posted:I'm also going to be moving soon afterwards for school. Is the kitty going to be able to handle a 4 hour car ride and re-acclimitize to a new home after coming home from shelter? Are you a college freshman, new transfer student, or someone out on their own for the first time? DON'T GET A PET. Wait at least 6 months or so. It's a crazy time in your life, don't burden yourself with too much responsibility. soj89 posted:I think I'll be looking for an adult cat who can be a bit more independent. There may be times that I won't be able to give super amounts of playtime like a kitten would need. I won't let him out of the house. Good thinking. A pair of bonded adult cats would be ideal. They will have a friend to keep them company, and pairs are harder to adopt out. If you get one now, and one later, they may never ever get along, and it will be miserable. soj89 posted:I'm also worried about the health of an adoptee - the stories in PI about some shelters not really disclosing possible problems has me very wary. Expect your cat to come with a cold, fleas, and mites. These are common, and easy to treat. Always take your cat to your vet asap after you bring it home from the shelter. Even if the shelter vet gave it a clean bill of health. Ask around at vets, and independent pet boutiques about their recommendations and especially warnings about the rescue groups in your area. soj89 posted:Finally, I'm worried about cleanliness and smell. Like I said, I've never had a pet before and some of my friends that do have one tend to have a weird smell in their houses. I'm not adverse to the litterbox cleaning everyday but what should I expect in terms of general grossness? Cat poo poo is really really foul, and their piss ain't much better. Some cats like to puke once a week, you will step in it barefoot at least 2 times a year. Hairballs are icky. If a lizard/frog/snake sneaks inside, you may see its guts strewn across the floor. Cat hair will be everywhere, even in your food when you go out to fancy restaurants. Your bed will always have tiny grains of litter on it, that you can feel, but not see. soj89 posted:Are there any other considerations I should think about before taking on this huge responsibility? Not only is it a responsibility, it's a huge burden. A potential 20+ year burden. Are you married? If not, are you screening all potential mates for allergies and rejecting them?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2009 15:18
|
|
|
soj89 posted:Well not having been a pet owner before, how do you screen for a good vet? That's a very good question. If you can, I would go to as many vets as I could within a few miles of my home. I'd just walk in, and say I was thinking of getting a pet, and was looking into veterinarians. Ask how much a basic visit it, what their hours are, if they can do emergency surgeries, do they have a boarding service, do they offer payment plans, could you get a little tour, do they have any specialists, etc. After you visit a couple, I think you'll get an idea of what ones you like. Also, whenever you see someone walking a pet, or buying pet food, ask them who their vet is, or who they recommend/warn away from. You can also ask the shelters around if they have any vets that volunteer their services to them... I always like supporting those that support rescue orgs. After you visit or even just talk on the phone with a few places, you should be able to get a vibe if it fits you or not. When I first got a cat, I went to Banfield because they gave me a coupon (then called PetVets), which is a commercial chain located in PetSmart (or is it PetCo?) Every time I went, we saw a different doctor (high turnover) the waiting room was packed with all types of animals with various amounts of restraint, and they always pushed their 'packages' and extra vaccines. Now I go to a cat only clinic, that is run by a single doctor, most of the staff has been there 5+ years, there are only 2 exam rooms, and I LOVE her.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2009 22:45
|
|
|
Do not "sneak" your kitten onto a plane. Call the airline, and inquire about their particular protocols.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2009 18:16
|
|
|
Kittens up to 1 year of age should generally be free fed dry kibble. You may supplement that with wet food if you like. If you feed a high quality food you do not need a special 'kitten' formula. Most of the premium foods will indicate they are for all age levels. After a year of age, decide what best suits your family. Most cats can self regulate their food intake. However, many cats cannot, and become obese. If you have multiple cats with varying weight issues, you might do best on a strict schedule. Be wary of feeding first thing in the morning. Cats don't tell time very well, and won't think "I get tasty food at 7:30am," they think "I get tasty food when this person gets out of bed. Get up now!" Don't ever feed your cat in the middle of the night because it's howling/crying. Your cat will remember if you do, and try it over and over for the rest of its life. Dry vs. wet is a long and honored debate. Some cats don't drink much water, and could get dehydrated without a wet food. Some cats drink plenty of water. Some say dry food helps clean teeth. Some say that's hogwash. Does that help at all? Your plan of free feed dry all day and an extra wet meal at night sounds fine. As far as switching foods, it all depends on what food you start out on, and what food you think you want to switch to.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2009 22:47
|
|
|
Redshirt 3 posted:Hmm well he's done it before on the odd rare occasion, but he has done it several times in the last few weeks which is more than normal. We haven't changed anything around the house. Can cats voluntarily control puking? cos one of the times was when the little bastard threw a shitfit about my fiancee not cleaning the litter box soon enough, and pissed on his jacket, shat in the bed, and puked on the floor. Which was nice. That definitely sounds like you should see a vet.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2009 00:14
|
|
|
Paul E. Waug posted:I have a 18 year old cat that LOVES Montana catnip and only Montana catnip. Any other and she turns her nose up at it. And just in case it wasn't made clear, d8 sells Montanta Catnip in the SA-Mart, and it is drat good stuff. Makes my cats all rolly and hissy at each other.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2009 07:53
|
|
|
Going from 0-2 cats is great, because you always have a part-time babysitter on hand. It truly is less work, for a little more $$ and a lot more enjoyment. It is best to get 2 young kittens/cats, or a pair of older bonded cats. If you get a single now thinking you might get a playmate at a later date, you may never find a cat combo that gets along with each other. However, if you are convinced you only want 1 cat, this is OK too, especially if you start out with a grown-up cat. Many cats want to be a solo cat in adulthood. There is nothing wrong with this, it just limits your future options, and you are committed to be the cat's sole playmate forever.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2009 07:37
|
|
|
cuddle bug posted:My boyfriend and I have 2 kittens, they are brother and sister and just turned 5 months old. We had difficulty finding a vet we liked when we got their vaccinations done but finally settled on a cat clinic with slightly more reasonable rates than some of the other vets and what seem like a great staff. The only problem is they said they won't neuter and spay them until they are 6 months old. If you are in America, I would find this very odd. If you are in some other country, I understand the old fashioned thinking of wait until 6 months still prevails in many places. If your kitty does end up getting knocked up, you can do an emergency spay which will take care of things, but it may cost a bit more. If it were me, I'd be kicking and screaming, but sometimes you need to do as the Romans do, so to speak.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2009 01:08
|
|
|
Does your vet think he's fat as well? 8 or 9 pounds does not seem like a lot of weight, but it certainly depends on the frame of your cat. Do you have a tall (6 foot +) tree for him to climb up and down? Cats can exert a ton of energy running up and down those things.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2009 17:05
|
|
|
Daemoxx posted:I suppose this would count as an FAQ. An untreated URI (upper respiratory infection) can lead to worse things down the road. It's best to get it looked at and taken care of. URIs are very common, especially in a cat in a shelter/foster situation. A sneeze here and there is no biggie, but if it's consistent, or accompanied by coughing, it is vet time. Kittens up to a year old should have all the food they can eat. 2 of my cats act like they are starved if they smell raw beef, cheese, or wet food. They are just drama queens.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2009 07:38
|
|
|
CraigK posted:When do kittens tend to break out of the "ATTACK loving EVERYTHING" mode, usually? My 7 month old kittens have just recently showed some restraint. It used to be if I made the feather on a string toy move, they'd be all over it. In the last week, they've displayed some restraint by watching it for a second or two, and then pouncing on it with thought. I still get face walked on while I sleep, but it significantly decreased around the 5 1/2 - 6 month mark. My 9 year old cat still goes after the 12 year old cat's tail. Tails are delicious, and cannot be ignored.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 30, 2009 14:42
|
|
|
CagedLiberty posted:It's official: kittens are stinky. When my husband and I get into a silly argument, we threaten to "feed the kittens tuna." Oh good god, the farts the kittens had from Trader Joe's Cat Tuna (not fit for humans, it's actual organ meat from tuna) was enough to not just clear a room, but the whole house!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2009 19:40
|
|
|
multigl posted:I just read it. Many people have good luck with OTC allergy pills and/or shots. Many people also become more tolerant of a particular cat the more they are around it. I don't suffer from allergies, so I can't really say anymore, but people manage. If you do let it inside, keep it out of your bedroom, and get a good HEPA vacuum.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2009 23:51
|
|
|
Helvetica Neue posted:Anyone? Where I live, you must give your cat a rabies shot by 4 months of age, by law. So, there is a risk that if your cat ends up at a shelter, and you cannot provide a rabies certificate, you could get screwed. Or if a friend comes over, gets bit, you could be screwed even more. If I were you, I'd call the vet, and get things all squared away ASAP. And your co-worker is a shithead.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2009 17:40
|
|
|
Hady posted:We use a swivel sweeper since it's great at picking up kitty litter on almost any surface. It's not great for anything else, so we just keep them by the litter boxes. I've been thinking of getting something like a swivel sweeper. I have wood floors, and when I use a normal broom, I often just fling it all over the place. I'm glad to hear a good review of the swivel sweeper.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2009 23:07
|
|
|
HondaCivet posted:Two basic questions: I fully expect my 8 month old kittens to grow a bit more. Seems like my older cat stopped getting bigger around 10 months-ish, but continued to fill out until 2 years-ish. And some cats, like Maine Coons, are known to not mature until 4 years or so.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2009 19:06
|
|
|
Dangbe posted:I read through the first couple pages of this post and didn't see anything about the financial responsibilities of owning a cat. I am planning on adopting a cat in the very near future and I want to know about how much money the cat will cost me a month. This is not including any of the initial investment, just litter, food, whatever else I may have to purchase on a regular basis. Also about how much is it for a vet visit? I spent about $50ish a month on my two adult cats. Vet care varys greatly upon the area you live, but here in Nor. Cal., it was $40ish for an office visit, and when you add routine yearly shots, it was about $100-$120 per cat, per year. Kittens cost less initially for food and litter, but more in vet costs. And then elderly cats get rather expensive in vet costs. An emergency visit where I thought my cat might have a broken leg, but didn't, was $200ish. That's $200 to just look at the drat cat when my regular vet was closed.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2009 20:52
|
|
|
Cats are pretty disgusting, they puke, they rip insects and small mammals to shreds, they track litter into your bed... if a little bit of kitten poo poo freaks you out, are you sure you want a cat?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2009 20:16
|
|
|
Murphys Luck posted:I really just want confirmation, but is this cattery http://www.innocentia-cats.com/ in any way reputable? Your co-worker could do a hell of a lot worse than this. They spay/neuter, have a 1 year health guarantee, have shown champion cats, and are recommended by the CFA. It would be much if the kittens' parents were both championed, and if the adoption contract was spelled out, and if the health contract was spelled out. In my totally non-professional opinion based on a website, I'd give them a 7 or 8 out of 10. Would it be better to get a cat from a shelter? Well, it would be for me, because I don't give a crap about cat breeds. But some people do. And if your co-worker really wants a Tonkinese or a British Shorthair, they should be able to get one guilt free.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2009 20:18
|
|
|
even worse username posted:I've seen Feliway recommended here a lot and I would like to give it a shot to see if it can chill out my older cat around the younger one. However I'm in Canada and can't seem to find a place to order it online - Petsmart won't ship to Canada, distributors through Amazon won't ship to Canada - can I only get it through the vet here, as some sites seem to suggest? Looks like there is plenty on Canadian eBay.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2009 05:31
|
|
|
demozthenes posted:The other issue is that neither of us want a kitten. They are assholes. Google is giving me nothing on RB breeders in my area (Boston) and Petfinder is showing me a bunch of gray cats that may or may not be (but most likely aren't) actual RBs. After the holidays, we're planning a tour of the local shelters and rescues so I can meet the random gray cats, but I'm trying to cut through the bullshit and hives and just adopt a less-allergenic kitty. Who knows a good RB rescue or a breeder that might be able to hook me up with an adult? I am in no rush and am the type to take my time and find the perfect fit, but would like to start looking - the house is so quiet without the rats about, and I already ran out and bought the litterbox, toys, and other supplies for Paddy's supposed arrival. I would start with the CFA's recommended breeders. http://secure.cfa.org/Search.aspx Many reputable breeders will ship a cat, so location isn't really an issue. Email, or better yet call them, and ask about retired breeders, or any rescue groups they know of. There are a couple of other allergy friendly breeds out there, but like most things, there's no guarantee.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2009 20:16
|
|
|
Splurge on an automatic cat feeder, and call it an early Christmas present to yourself. Or just free feed them for the day, but in many small bowls hidden around the house?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2009 23:36
|
|
|
spatula posted:When my kitten gets neutered will he be less annoying? I mean, they have to chill out a little bit once you cut their balls out, right? Serious question. Well, around 7ish months, I'd say they become more like teenagers than little spazzy kittens. Certainly still full of piss and vinegar, but a bit more restrained about it. They probably won't be fully mature (physically and mentally) until around 2 years. This is why kittens suck. It's also why they are awesome.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2009 19:10
|
|
|
HondaCivet posted:Weird question but: Where do your guys' cats usually lose/keep their toys? My cats always seem to lose their toys instantly and they hardly ever end up in the obvious spots (under the couch, under the fridge, etc.). Do cats often stash their favorite toys in awkward spots on purpose? If so, I haven't found their stash yet. My boy Kleng likes to push his toys under a storage container that's on wheels. Then he spends 30 minutes trying to fish it out again. It's the cutest thing. It's not so cute when he dunks them in the water bowl. And he doesn't just keep them there for safe keeping like some cats, he gets them soaking wet, then pulls them out and plays with them up and down the hallway, leaving a big wet mess. Maneki used to lose all her krinkle balls under the stove. Every few months we'd pull them out with a wire clothes hanger. She'd get SO excited when she saw that wire hanger come out of the closet.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2009 05:37
|
|
|
madlilnerd posted:I'd wait until you have him neutered. That's what the vet told us with our girl kitten, she's 18 weeks now and we're not supposed to let her outside until she's been done in January. 3 months is a little young, and plus it's gross outside right now, so why would he want to go out? I agree that cats should be let outside (UK goon too) but we're not having that argument.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 9, 2009 19:08
|
|
|
Firequirks posted:Is this a US thing? I haven't heard of microchipping being a recurring cost. My microchipping was a one-time cost for a national company that houses the data in Calgary, I think. Where do you live? A local shelter gave me a "free" Avid microchip (with adoption) but it requires an $18 fee each time I want to change the info (in case you move, get a new phone #), and the chip was initially implanted with the shelter's contact info on it, not mine. I have heard of other chip brands that require a yearly fee. A monthly fee sounds ridiculous, I think you misheard, or your vet misspoke. I think you ought to find out what the preferred chip for your local animal shelters are. They have universal scanners now, but sometimes they just say "has chip" or "has no chip." If you have the brand that your pound uses, I'd like to think you have a better chance of retrieval in case your pet gets lost and turned in.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2009 19:12
|
|
|
Put up fliers at all the vet offices, and petfood stores in town too. Students like to study together, so there is a fair chance that someone may have be visiting to study, picked him up as a 'stray,' then took him across town to whereever they live. Also, make sure your microchip company has up to date records on you. It's surprising how many people don't think to update phone numbers and stuff. And leave out some dirty laundry and/or used litter box so your cat can smell its way home.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2009 06:29
|
|
|
Silver Nitrate posted:What is the official cat registry? Like the AKC, but for cats. I know there are a ton of pseudo-official dog registries, and I'm looking to avoid something like that. CFA (Cat Fancier's Association) and TICA (The International Cat Association) are legit. edit: I think the CFA is regarded as a bit *more* legit than TICA. Meow Cadet fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Jan 3, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2010 02:39
|
|
|
hog wizard posted:My house mate's kitty was laying on my bed and after it got up there were tiny little black specs on my bed. They kind of looked like pepper flakes. What is this? Is this like flea poo poo? Yes, sounds like flea dirt to me. Get the cat to a vet, and get some flea preventative. (the poo poo from the grocery stores doesn't work)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2010 00:01
|
|
|
TMMadman posted:Talking about flea dirt kind of reminds me that I wanted to ask a question about my girl cat D.D. Yes. My neighbor's cat is super flaky when you pet her, and she's on lovely grocery store food. Look into the nutrition megathread, and get your cat on a good food it likes, and you'll see a marked improvement on her skin.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2010 06:31
|
|
|
DONT DO IT posted:I currently have 2 cats, one is a 5-6 year old female (~8-9 lbs), the other is a ~1 year old male (~12 lbs). I've had the male for roughly 3 months, and the relationship between the two has not improved. The male LOVES (at least he seems to) my other cat, but she begins hissing and tensing up if he so much as starts meowing in another room. He's very playful, she is not. My concern is that the female rarely eats, drinks, or uses the litter box when he is out, and since I am letting him stay out at night this is more of a problem. The only times I have seen her relax around him is after a scuffle, where he typically ends up falling over on his back. This will last only a short while before he starts coming after her again. Some might say get another younger cat to entertain the male and give your female some breathing space. I say, just let them work it out, provide multiple litter boxes and multiple food bowls so the female can 'get away' if she needs to. Be sure to give her a little extra attention when you can, maybe she feels replaced by the younger cat. I know my middle cat got very butt-hurt when I brought home 2 kittens last spring. She's very jealous, and unsure of her place in our household, even 10 months later.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2010 05:49
|
|
|
chippy posted:I'm having trouble with my 4/5 month old kitten making GBS threads next to the tray. Litter training was a pain with him anyway, I had to put him in a pen until he got it, but eventually he was fine. Then over christmas a couple of things happened - a change of food which gave him the violent shits (he's sensitive to something in it), and a change of litter, because I literally can't find the one I was using anywhere, anymore. Over this period he stopped pooing in the tray. He's back on his old food, and I've found a litter that's as close to the old one as I can find, but he's not using it. He knows what it's for, he pees in it just fine, and buries the pee (which is odd, because when he shat in the tray, he wouldn't bury piss, just hop on, go and hop off again), but he shits right next to the tray. It's like he knows that's where he should be going but just doesn't want to for some reason. Does anyone have any suggestions? It's starting to drive me a little bit mental. You might try a different type/size of box. I have 3 different boxes, and there is one box in particular that seems to get poo poo 'just outside' of occasionally. I guess it's a little too small, or they don't like the litter guard, or the color is bad, or something. I ought to replace it with one of the other types of boxes I have that is less offensive to dear delicate kitties.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2010 05:10
|
|
|
Chin Strap posted:I took food away from her from 7am to 7pm yesterday, and I put a new bowl of food down, and she wouldn't even take a bite. I bought some different food yesterday evening and put that down instead and she ate a few bites. As of noon today she hadn't even had 1/3 of a cup of the new food, so I bought some more different food, and she ate a few bites and is wandering about now If it were my cat, I'd be worried. It could be that she has stomach pain or mouth pain (or something) that is making her not want to eat. Cats hide pain/illness as long as possible. So while she looks and acts normal, her not eating is a huge red flag. Or maybe you cat is just weird. I think a trip to the vet would at the very least ease your mind, and at best, fix a medical problem.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2010 01:03
|
|
|
Doc_Uzuki posted:Yeah, we got him from the Minnesota Humane Society and he was the last left of his litter. They fix their kitties real early as well - both had it done before we took it home. Emma, the new kitty, got to stay with her litter a little longer and was fostered for a few weeks by a vet tech at the facility. We will just keep them seperated during the day until she gets big enough to handle the rough playing. Kittens are a lot tougher than we give them credit for. They can also be drama queens. When I brought Ęsa home, she would scream bloody murder if an adult cat just LOOKED at her funny. It's good to keep them separated and take it slow, but at some point you gotta just let the chips fall where they may.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2010 19:09
|
|
|
I've heard of catgrass helping cats throwup, but not catnip. Perhaps you misheard? And I think it would be weird if your cat had problems with turkey, but not chicken, but on the other hand cats are weird so....
|
|
#
¿
Feb 28, 2010 21:49
|
|
|
It's best to let him take his time, don't try to pull him out from his safe spot. I know it's hard, but let him come to you, don't shove your hands at him even though you just want to give him loves and pets. When I first brought Nyanko-chan home, she spent 3 days under the bed. As long as your new cat is eating a little and drinking some, it's fine.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2010 16:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 4, 2024 01:05 |
|
|
Teatime Prize posted:I don't know if this has already been answered because this is a pretty long thread, so sorry if it has, but what do I do with an apparently stray cat that seems to want to adopt me and my flatmate? It's a shame you can't talk to your neighbours. If you ever see them in the hall or whatever, try a "Is that fluffy cat yours? It's so pretty, if you ever need to unload it, let us know." But also, if you can't afford to go to a vet at a moments notice, you absolutely cannot afford a cat. A pet needs much more than food and love.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2010 20:57
|
|