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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Do whatever you want. Your cats will love it.

Cover it with carpet so their claws can bite and it'll be fine. You can run a walkway along the wall and add interesting waystations.

There are lots of YT videos of stuff people have built. The only real limit is what the landlord will tolerate.

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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Yeah, I'd absolutely leave him at home with a big pile of dry food and a clean litter box. Cats don't like changes, and constantly moving back and forth could stress him out. He may adapt, but it's also a huge hassle to capture him constantly and not worth it. Like RRR said, get someone to drop in on him now and then if you're worried about him.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

LeninVS posted:

Any tricks to get two cats to not fight on sight?
As per my previous posts we took my sister's neglected cat llLucy (6or7 year old female) to live with us and our cat Cora(7or8 year old female).

I watched and read Jackson galaxy's video/books on cat introductions and maybe I'm missing something.

I have Lucy living in our bedroom now and Cora has free reign of the rest of the house. We site swap them regularly to the point that Lucy is comfortable hanging out with us in the living room. Cora seems good hanging out in the bedroom with us aswell.

We did the feedings through a closed door for about a month and then moved to feeding them with a baby gate up.

However Cora still hisses and growls at Lucy on sight if they aren't eating.im not sure what to do from this point on.
Do I just live with two separate spaces for the cats forever, do I go back to closed door feedings, or do I remove the barrier and see what happens?

I don't need the cats to be cuddle buddies (would be nice) but I do want to feel like both cats are safe near each other. In Lucy's previous home she was not safe and I don't want to reintroduce that.

Growls and hisses are nothing. That's basic cat communication. I think you have unrealistic expectations for how cats get along.

The two of them have to work out their own rules for getting along. They can't do it verbally or write up a contract, so they use physical aggression when a boundary has been crossed. That's how they learn not to mess with each other.

In other words, let them hiss, growl, and fight until they work things out. It's what cats do. Unless you see actual fur flying and blood flowing, there isn't an actual problem. Let them sort it out.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

I'd break things up only if you see blood. They may do a fair amount of swatting and rasslin' with claws in. If claws come out and biting gets real, they break them up.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Grey Cat posted:

I'm at my wits end trying to get our cat to stop screaming and yowling from midnight to 5am.

Earplugs. Don't respond or you'll just reinforce the behavior.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Edgar Allen Ho posted:

Anybody got advice for hella vocal cats? A lot of times it is cute. Other times though, you’ll be trying to have a human conversation using words and grammar, and out of nowhere he hears and emerges, meowing a storm.

The other cats barely meow even if you try to encourage them. This fella tho

And yes he’s ball-free and healthy.

Earplugs. Vocalizing is just a personality trait. He's likely going to stay that way.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Edgar Allen Ho posted:

Im used to dogs by upbringing but now surrounded by cats. Is my understanding correct that wet food is better, especially now our automated water fountain is broken? They do mostly just look sadly at the water bowl except for our largest and oldest who will toss it halfway round the apartment in a thing he thinks is « drinking water »

And like I knows me enough biology to know cats need water

The puppies are easier and fine to demolish kibble and drink water a lot and also god help if you leave people food in range

Related: why do cat go loving crazy mode for wet food when the can is cracked, and then just look at it, nap, then yell that it isn’t as good anymore when they wake up and decide they are hungry?

I am trying to be a good dad kitty!!!! Feast! I can’t put food down always i have to go do human things!!

"Better" is relative. Dry and wet food contain the same nutrition. Your cat will do fine on either or both. Wet food is probably tastier and easier to eat, but it spoils. You have to keep opened cans refrigerated and throw away uneaten food after a few hours.

We keep dry food out all the time for them to free feed. We give them some wet food in the evening as a treat (and as a reward for coming in if they've been out).

So do what you and your cats like. It's fine whatever you do.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

I've gotten that a few times. Unplugging it for 10-15 seconds will usually reset it. Sometimes takes a few tries.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

We leave our bedroom door open, and all three cats come and go as they like. Sometimes they jump up on the bed a sleep with us for a while, but they have learned not to make a fuss because we won't respond.

Once the alarm goes off and we're up, they'll howl if the food dish is empty, for example, but they don't bother us while we're sleeping.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

MetaJew posted:

I used a pet safe drinking fountain thing for a few years but I got very tired of disassembling and cleaning it, and my wife never wanted to do it.

Our cats get a lot of food bits in the water so it gets dirty fast.

The best advice I'd say for any drinking fountain is get the one that has the fewest parts and the easiest to clean.

And locate it away from food bowls.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Boogalo posted:

I and everyone I know is happy with their litter robot.

They're expensive but think of it as spending about $100 a year to never have to scoop litter again. It is also still a mechanical device and will break or gently caress up sometimes but parts are cheap and disassembly easy. Get the wifi connected one so it'll tell you when its full, etc.

Ours is in a bathroom we use regularly, so just looking for the flashing blue light is sufficient. No wifi needed if you check it regularly. Save your money.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Rescue Toaster posted:

I'm REALLY lost on what to do for cat food. Every single 'good' brand I read about as like 'This is the best nutrition content blah blah blah' is followed up by recent reviews saying the formula changed and the cats won't eat it or it's trash now or whatever. It's like a new brand of 'Best food ever' shows up every month and another turns to poo poo every month. Not to mention the whole 'grain free vs not grain free' that every single person has an opinion on. It feels like it's all just designed marketed to drive loving engagement on youtube cat review channels rather than actually be decent food. Get the reviewers to promote it for a few months, then after a year start adding in the sawdust filler and once it tanks change brand names, all out of the same factory.

Lacking anything else I guess I'm just going to get Hills Indoor from Chewy since it most likely won't be actively bad for them I guess. I'd like to introduce some wet food for her (since she doesn't drink very much on her own) but it's basically the same problems.

All cat foods are regulated by the FDA to have proper nutritional levels. There is no "better" nutrition. They're all the same, no matter the price. Most of what you're dealing with is marketing bullshit.

What matters is what your cat likes and what, if any, ingredients it's sensitive to.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Lanky Coconut Tree posted:

I don't think I'd go so far as to say they're all the same. Big difference between say, Royale Canine and Friskies.

I think getting the highest protein content with the most amount of actual meat in the first few ingredients is good enough. And if you can afford it, get them on a wet food diet. Applaws is my go to for wet food.

Also I wouldn't free feed kittens as it'll be hard to control their portions and know if they're eating enough.

The nutritional content is the same. Cheap food uses a fair amount of cellulose filler, which is just indigestible fiber so your cat eats more and poops more. So they're less nutritionally dense, but it's all there in the right proportions - and the lower cost is somewhat offset by the fact that cats have to consume more of it.

So it goes back to buy whatever you want. It doesn't really matter.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

bltzn posted:

One of our always very well behaved cats has started aggressively and persistently pawing at the TV and I can't figure out what he actually wants (aside from food which he always wants) :negative:

It's instinctive behavior to pursue moving shapes. One of ours does it, too.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Hyperlynx posted:

I just got a Litter Robot 4. The idea was to make my place smell less like cat box, but the thing reeks.

I see they sell carbon filters. Do they actually help? Or has this all been an expensive waste of time? :(

I keep a container with baking soda in it at the front of the poop tray. It seems to help.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Hyperlynx posted:

I'm sorry you're going through all this, Countblanc. Please don't feel like you're monopolising the thread. Helping people deal with kitty problems is the whole point, whether that's fixing them or coping with them.

I'll give that a go.

How does it work, though? Absorbs the stink particles? I'd sort of assumed that poo just keeps stinking indefinitely. Or the baking soda gets it before it gets out?

Wait what. But what's the benefit of an automated litter tray if you've still got to manually clean it daily?

Most of the odor is from ammonia from the decomposition of urea. The baking soda reacts with it to keep it out of the air.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

I think you're good. It's bleach, and a good rinse will take care of the bulk of it.

It's not particularly dangerous in the tiny amounts that will remain.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Diogines posted:

That is what I figured and a relief to hear, though I don't think I can wash it. The mold came from a leak which is not fully resolved, I need to do my best to keep the room dry while I deal with the situation.

By "rinse" I meant the sweep/Swiffer wipe down. There's not going to be much residue at that point. You can go over it with a damp mop if you're still worried. You don't need to do anything more than that, though.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

cash crab posted:

weird question. one of my cats gets like. very into covering his pee, always steps in it and gets out of the box with a chunk of pee stuck to his foot, which he has at least one occasion wiped off into my bed. neither of this love this. it is only pee and it is only him. i use an extra light litter because i am small and i can't carry most conventional litters, and besides they they're usually quite dusty. any suggestions for litter brands or some other modification?

You might try some clumping litter. It will tend to cohere more and maybe not stick to him as much.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Annath posted:

How can I stop my idiot cat from loudly yowling for food at 4am?

He's always been almost insane about food, and he and his sister were overweight, so about a year ago I started strictly portioning their food. Previously they had free access to food.

While it has not resulted in any visible weight loss, he is still extremely obsessed with food. When he started getting hungry he would do this thing where he'd wait outside whatever room I was in and as soon as I stepped out he'd dash across my apartment to his food dish, and when I didn't follow him and feed him he'd dash back to me, and then back to the food dish. It's honestly pretty annoying as he's a naturally larger cat, and overweight, so he's quite loud when running around.

A few months ago he added another tactic to his arsenal - he now sits outside my bedroom at night and starts yowling/meowing very loudly starting around 4am. It's loud enough that it sometimes wakes me up, and makes it difficult to get back to sleep.

I actually went out and bought an automatic feeder when this started, in the hopes that after a while he'd stop associating me with feeding. It hasn't worked...

Is there anything else I can do? I love him to death, but it's very irritating.

I think the only solution is to teach him that yowling outside your door doesn't work. You'll just have to ignore him until he gives up. I don't know of any other methods.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Pollyanna posted:

This is making me significantly more wary of adopting two cats instead of just one. :ohdear:

We've had maybe 15 cats in total over the years, always multiples. We've never done any introductions, just drop the new cat in the litter box so it knows where it is, and then left the new and old cats alone to figure out their new relationships.

It's always worked. Our cats aren't buddies, but they get along. Never had any compatibility problems.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

pairofdimes posted:

Is there an easy way to repair/replace the rope part of a vertical scratcher? The cats have ripped off the rope from the top part of the scratcher which is their favorite part. They're starting to rip up the post itself now.

Hot glue it back on. If the rope itself is gone, buy some more at Home Depot.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Rescue Toaster posted:

Our new cat has a little lump (smaller than pea sized) on his leg where he got a vaccine about ~3-4 weeks ago. Vet said it was most likely a reaction to the shot, and wait another month or so to see if it goes away or obviously if it gets bigger.

I know cats can get vaccine site cancers. Is it reasonable to wait another month? Should we have pushed to get a biopsy already? Unfortunately it's too late we'd have to just make another appointment anyway. Any advice on how much longer to wait to raise a stink?

If it IS one of those vaccine-site cancers, are they super fast and aggressive or will another month not make a big difference?

Get a second opinion if you want, but I wouldn't trust the advice of a bunch of idiots on the internet over your vet.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

china bot posted:

Makes sense, and she has no choice but to be a solo cat until mid-July so I figure I'll be able to tell by then

Kittens usually need a companion because they have so much energy it's better that they beat up on each other rather than tear your house apart.

Older cats are usually fine being alone, but adapt well to having partners, too.

Do whatever seems right.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

jimmychoo posted:

good god why is it so hard to figure out what food to feed my kitten? i’m trying to transition him to adult food now that he’s older than 1 year but the online discourse of whether to go the heavily standardized brands like Royal Canin vs grain-free brands is so confusing to me. feels like there is absolutely no consensus at all. is the pet nutrition thread still active at all? what do y’all feed your kitties?

All foods have the same nutrition, regulated by the FDA. There's a lot of advertising gobbldygook that passes for knowledge in the pet food area.

Feed your kitten whatever it likes and whatever you can afford. It will be fine.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Nuclear Tourist posted:

I've always been under the impression that the big brands usually found in grocery stores (Meow Mix, Friskies, Purina etc) are for the most part garbage filler, and if you make a habit out of feeding your cats that stuff it will increase the risk of them turning into fat blimps with diabetes and kidney issues. But I will also admit that I don't compare ingredients and nutrients as much as I probably should, so maybe I'm way off base.

That said I usually alternate between a few different brands so my cats don't get bored. For wet food I usually give them Hill's Science Diet Chicken Entrée pate (current favorite) and different Weruva flavors. Applaws wet food is also excellent, but pricey. For dry food I'm feeding them Royal Canin Adult Indoor at the moment.

I've had multiple cats live past 20 yo on cheap grocery store food. The filler is non-digestible cellulose, so they eat more and poop more, but they get the same nutrition in the end.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Yeah, give her some time. She's spent a lot of her life hungry and worried about food. Now it's free and readily available and she can't quite believe her luck.

She'll get used to the situation and settle down after a while.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

cash crab posted:

alright, so i let them meet today.

the girl, aanyeong, won’t really leave my bed because she’s scared of tandy, and tandy doesn’t understand why she’s mad when he charges at her to play wrestle. he’s not being aggressive, just annoying, but it’s obviously distressing to her and i am not sure how to tell her he’s not trying to kill her.

Give them time. They'll figure it out.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Karia posted:

Anyone have toy suggestions that Anna can play with while I'm at work? I feel bad leaving her by herself, especially since my current place doesn't have a good view to watch for birds or whatever. I've given her a few catnip mice but she hasn't really reacted to them.

(And for the record yes I'd like to get a second cat, but since I'm moving in a couple months and Anna is still adjusting to being indoors I'd rather hold off on that for the moment.)

She probably sleeps all day. Cats are crepuscular, meaning that they're active at dawn and twilight. They generally sleep otherwise.

So don't worry too much about it. Get her some toys if you want, but don't be surprised if she doesn't play with them much while you're gone.

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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Looks like he's trying to nurse.

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