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Nondo
Jul 5, 2002

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Nondo
Jul 5, 2002

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Private Label posted:

I love this. I've always wanted to learn how to do these types of shots; I read in another thread about either putting exposures together (I have only 30 sec exposure max) or taking a bulb shot. How do you go about doing it? Whenever I do night shots, I tend to have it get way too bright because of other light pollution... how do you get around that?

Sorry I missed this.

Captain Chestbeard covered it pretty well but yes I used bulb mode along with a cable release to lock the shutter open. In my case I avoided most of the light pollution by driving away from the city, I was in the mountains about an hour east of the city. Single exposure taken at f/4 for 1833 seconds.

Nondo
Jul 5, 2002

CODE ORANGE
Perseids meteor shower is tomorrow night. Anyone going to take some photos? Moon rises around midnight

quote:

Perseid meteors will appear to "rain" into the atmosphere from the constellation Perseus, which rises in the northeast around 11 p.m. in mid-August.

http://stardate.org/nightsky/meteors/

Nondo
Jul 5, 2002

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I could use some help.

I've been sitting on some photos I took during the Perseid meteor shower last month because of a huge hot pixel problem. I was in the desert (90 degrees at 11 PM) taking 30 minute, 15 minute, 10 minute exposures back to back with out NR on and I'm left with 3 or 4 photos that look like this when I zoom in...



What's the most effective way to remove all of the hot pixels with out doing it by hand?

Here's the original for comparison sake

Nondo
Jul 5, 2002

CODE ORANGE

octane2 posted:

It's probably a bit late now, but, you may be able to take a bunch of dark frames in the approximate temperature as the original shooting conditions.

This technique is used for astrophotography (I'm an astrophotographer).

Take between 16-25 dark frames to give you an SNR of 4-5.

Use the software provided with your camera, to convert the RAW images to TIFF's. Use Photoshop's stacking feature to median combine the 16-25 images. This will form a master dark frame.

You then load your light frame and use the Image > Calculation > Subtract feature to subtract the dark frame from your light frame. This should remove the majority of the hot pixels. Everything else will need to be cloned out by hand.

Note: this may alter colour balance and other aspects of your image. Anyone who's decent at Photoshop will be able to re-balance the image to match the original.

If you like, send me what you've got and I'll see what I can do.

Let me know if you're interested.

Feel free to read about the procedure in my journal over at octane2.deviantart.com -- scroll down to the bit on The Black Art of Astrophotography.

H

Thanks info and the link octane. I'm going to give this a try. Worst case scenario I'll just do it by hand when I have the time.

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