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HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Do any of you guys bother trying hyperfocal focusing type of stuff or is that all airy-fairy?

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HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
I tried shooting a roll of film of landscapes using hyperfocal focusing just for kicks. Judging from the results, I think what it does is simulate human vision a bit in that the stuff closer to the camera is clearer but the stuff further out is blurrier much like how you can't see pinpoint details a kilometer away in real life.

Either that or it's supposed to give the photo a bit of depth by not having everything in focus like if you just adjusted focus to infinity at f/8 or smaller.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

evil_bunnY posted:

Eh, I thought the whole point of hyperfocal focusing was to shoot stopped enough that your foreground *and* background are focused :confused:

I don't know. Infinity focus usually puts everything in focus for me, but then I end up with a very flat-looking photo because there isn't much of a sense of depth with everything being in focus. I have no idea.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

evil_bunnY posted:

When someone smarter than me explained it, what I understood is that you shift focus back from infinity and stop down until both foreground and background/infinity are in the field. It's pretty easy to visualize on old-rear end lenses with both a focus and a depth of field scale.

Yeah, I was shooting with a Mamiya 645 Pro and a 55mm lens. I was shooting at f/8 and putting the infinity mark on the edge of the f/8 DOF mark on the scale on the lens. Maybe stopping down to f/11 or so would have been better?

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Going for more of a layered look:



HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

Way Past Cool! posted:

You've pulled it off well, especially in the second one. The overall composition reminds me of Japanese wood block prints.

Thanks. I'm having 8x10s made of them.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Any goons in France here? I want an aerial photo of the salterns in Guerande.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Bob Ross' trees were happier than that.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
I make the rocks sexy:








Shot on Portra 160VC in 6x4.5.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

Interrupting Moss posted:

This is pretty cool.

Yeah, I like the nighttime shots. They have an awesome "gently caress with your head" factor.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

slearch posted:



Whoah, what the gently caress?

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

quazi posted:

(I developed it a couple days ago in front of about 50 people.)

You forgot to add the lens flare and motivational poster border with lolcat quote at the bottom.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
The colour version has potential. Try mucking around with the levels. Bringing in the low and mid will really give it some punch.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

rockcity posted:

A couple questions for you landscapers. This July I'm going to be venturing out to the Pacific Northwest and plan to do a lot of photography while I'm out there. Right now I'm shooting on a 40D and my widest lens (aside from my 8mm fisheye) is a 20mm Sigma. I'm weighing my options of either renting a 5D or a wider zoom lens, possibly with an ND filter, for my trip and am wondering what might be the best route to go for this one.

Wider isn't always better. Some of my better landscape photos were shot on 50mm equivalent lenses in various formats. It makes you either find a more imaginative angle to fit things in or it makes you focus on the key features of the landscape. With ultra wide angles, you run the risk of having too much in the frame.

Something like a 17-50 can be surprisingly useful for landscape photography.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
I went for a walk in the forest today with a 17-50 and an 80-200. While it didn't yield any great photos, it was an interesting exercise in composition in that I found that using the 80-200 forced me to find actual subjects to photograph whereas with the 17-50 I tended to take broader, more sweeping photos that weren't nearly as interesting because they lacked a central focus to make them interesting.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

fenner posted:

I've tried this by taking my 50mm 1.8 instead of my 18-55 and shooting at the wide end... I never come back with anything I like. It's a possibility I should try this more often to see if it will improve my composition, but I could miss out on some great shots whilst doing it.

Take both lenses just in case. It's not like the trees are going to go running off while you switch lenses.

I think one thing I liked about shooting longer was that I could get much better background separation at f/2.8 with a longer lens. At 17mm, f/2.8 just looks like a blurry lens. At 50mm it starts to look nice but at 80mm and longer I start to get that great shallow and smooth depth of field like when I shoot medium format that really makes a subject pop out against a busy background like a dense forest. It instantly draws the eye to where you want it to go.

HPL fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Apr 19, 2010

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Hey fenner, octane2 is calling you out.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

Momonari kun posted:

Just got back from China and am wondering what to do with these shots from the Great Wall. The weather was really rainy and while some shots have a good atmosphere to them, some are just plain hazy. I'm not really sure what I need to do in post to get rid of the color cast in them.

I actually have to deal with this issue a lot in concert photography. The key thing to remember is that fog and haze reduces contrast so you have to try to restore that contrast. I don't know what program you're using for image editing, but in Photoshop Elements, it's not very difficult to do. It can be as simple as using auto contrast, auto color correction then tweaking the levels until you get the desired effect.

Another thing to remember when shooting on a hazy or overcast day is to watch your histogram as conditions like that usually fool the light meter and make the camera underexpose.

Here's a quick mod I made in a minute or two. Not the greatest and there are still a few outstanding issues, but you get the idea:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Took this just as the sun set behind the mountain peak:


Then drove down to the water to catch the last of the light:


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HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.

Smekerman posted:

Not bad but they're too obviously HDR (or tonemapped, rather). The sky just looks off in the last two shots. It's like the mountains are glowing, especially on the far left and right of the pictures. They'd be nice sunset shots if you could actually fix that. I'll get to the first one as well in a bit, but here's some random critiques for the last two shots:

- In the second shot, your horizon is almost straight down the middle. I'd shift + crop it from the bottom left to get rid of the empty space at the bottom and lower the horizon at the same time
- It also seems like you have some barrel distortion on the horizon in the second shot, it looks curved. I didn't bother pixel-peeping and I might be wrong due to perspective or something, but you might want to double check that.
- I'd also clone out that tiny-rear end moon, it's kinda cool but at the same time it's so small that it just jumps out at you and distracts you from the rest of the shot. It's literally the first thing I noticed.

- The white thing on the right in the third shot is really distracting. I'd consider cropping that.
- You have a couple red pixels in the shot which draw the eye to them. I'd clone those out.
- Again, glowy mountains. It's somewhat better in dynamic range than the second shot, but you can really tell something's up by looking at the mountain on the left. Notice how areas near its center are darker than areas closer to both the water and the sky? Really distracting.

And now let's talk about your first shot. This should would be pretty dope if:

- You got rid of that half-a-house in the bottom left.
- You color-corrected the really blue tinge in the mountains with maybe a masked color balance tool, adding more yellow or something.
- Fixed the tonemapping in your HDR process so that the forest in the foreground has somewhat of a similar toning, ie. trees in the foreground aren't lighter than trees in the background, as it makes no sense for that to be the case, you had no light source illuminating said trees.

Anyway, overall, when shooting HDR I'm really way less concerned about preserving all/most shadow detail in shadow areas. Go for a more natural look (ie. slightly blown highlights and/or dark shadows) when shooting HDR, rather than think "I'm shooting HDR, I need to have detail in both shadows and highlights!". If I had to choose, I'd say go with details in the highlights, and personally I feel you kinda nailed that with this first shot. Shadow detail, however (and again, this is only my opinion) isn't nearly as important, as long as it's not pitch black.

Thanks for the good comments. I pretty much had to HDR it much to my chagrin because without it, it was either totally lose the ground or totally lose the sky in all three situations. I agree that more contrast would do it some good, in fact these photo already have it bumped up a bit from what the program spit out. It was one of those things where I was a bit concerned that what might look good on my monitor might not translate to others, but since you seem to share the same concerns as me, I might as well go back and tweak it some more.

I wouldn't be surprised about the barrel distortion. I used an 11-16 and a 17-50 for the shots. I think one reason it looks distorted is because the islands/coastline aren't dead flat across the horizon. They are staggered a little bit. I did level the horizon in post though.

The mountains appear to be glowing largely because of atmospheric haze (bad smog and crap from the city) combined with the twilight and a light mist on the water.

For the most part, I tried to back off the HDR to the point where it was as the scene appeared in real life. I tried to avoid that halo-y effect as much as possible. Unfortunately, there always will be a bit of it when shooting wide at that time of day since there's a natural gradient of light in the sky.

The first shot was tough because the sun was setting so fast that I barely had time to set up my tripod and get things dialed in. What you're seeing is the moment just as the sun ducked behind the mountain, which probably lasted about five seconds. And then the dynamic range was so crazy that +/- 2 stops over three exposures still wasn't enough. I'm not a big fan of how the light appears as kind of a blob on the mountain top.

I'm at work right now, but I'll definitely give your suggestions a swing when I get home.

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