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  • Locked thread
-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
So I was checking my tires for tread earlier and I noticed a small nail in the rear tire. It's one of those really small nails that doesn't really have a head and it's in kinda deep so it would be really hard to pull out. I don't think it's causing a leak; I check my psi a couple times a week and it's been consistent, but I don't know when I picked the nail up. What would be the best course of action? Should I leave the nail in, or take it somewhere to get it pulled and patched, or?

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-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Chairon posted:

Yank it, if it's leaking, get a patch. If not, you're great.
I don't have the stuff on hand to pull the tire and apply a proper mushroom patch, gonna try running it down to a couple shops and see if I can get anyone to patch it on monday. Thanks.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Pilot races on the street this time of year..how retarded of an idea is this? Temps should be heating up pretty soon but as of current the average is around 30-50F. I've never ran on them before so I have no clue how long they take to warm up, especially in cooler weather. Just wondering if I can scrape by with them for a few weeks until I can pull together the money for some power 2CT's.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
They were used for one track weekend down at jennings in late december. I'll just be using them for commuting so they shouldn't ever see any sort of lean angles. Is it easy to lose traction on them from accel/braking in a relatively straight line? I've never used race tires before.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Oops sorry, it's not for the two-fiddy. You could prolly WOT the 250 on pure ice and still keep traction, heh. They're for an R6, so slightly more acceleration there.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

needknees posted:

--Edit--

Trying to figure out if it's worth it to get some sort of tire changing machine or pay out the rear end to have a shop swap tires for me. I do a fair bit of riding and living in boring rear end Iowa means I have a lot of ground to cover before getting to anything interesting, so sport touring tires aren't a bad idea. I'm also going to do a number of track days this year and would like to use stickier rubber. I could run sport tires year round but they really suck in a lot of the weather I ride in and I end up flatspotting the poo poo out of them since the majority of "corners" around here are 90 degree intersections between corn/bean fields :haw:

I don't really want to pay 50 bucks a pop to get things changed over... the cheapest I've found in my area is $25/wheel, off the bike. Add another 10-20 bucks if I just bring the bike in.

Cue me thinking about a tire changer. It seems the two most common options are the Harbor Freight setup and NoMar... NoMar seems a lot nicer but is way more expensive. Anyone have experience with both of these?
You don't need a machine, one of my buds can change tires faster by hand in his garage than he can by using our machine. I'm not sure what his setup is at home though. I could check if you'd like.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

needknees posted:

Definitely interested :).
Hmm, I checked and turns out he actually has a harbor freight rig in his garage. Apparently it just broke though, heh, take that for what you will.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Z3n posted:

What broke about it?
Not sure, I'll ask when he gets back from tally this weekend.

Has anyone tried the Sportec M5's? I had completely forgotten about them until I saw a set today. They look like pretty nice tires, and they appear to be in the same boat as the Power Pures at the moment -- price is about $100 off MSRP because they're so new.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Just don't ride it in the center ;)

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Rear tires have different tread patterns and have more tread because they're doing all of the work, or basically pushing the bike. In the same manner, front tires essentially pull the bike. Profile will be different too -- front tires generally have more of a V shape than rears. You could run a rear on the front if you really wanted to, just flip the tire and run it opposite the direction of rotation.

Which battlaxes were you looking at?

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
You have a 250 right? I personally hated my BT-45's, but a lot of people really like them. They have excellent wet grip and last for-freaking-ever, and they are dual compound so there is a stickier compound on the sides.. You can check out my post in the 250 thread but I'm running BT-090's now and I'm in love with them. If you're gonna be doing a lot of twisty riding and won't be riding in the rain much I would highly recommend the 090's. If you're mostly commuting with the occasional weekend ride up in the mountains you'll probably like the 45's. 090's are much more of a performance oriented tire, I'd call them a BT-016 but for smaller bikes. You'll see about 4000 miles (that's what I'm estimating anyways, I only have a grand on them so far) out of the 090's and probably 10,000 out of the 45's.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

frozenphil posted:

Which BT-090s did you get and from where? All I'm finding are the ones for the WR250X and they are tube type tires. The tubeless ones are no longer sold in the US according to Bridgestone.
Some people over on ninja250.org are saying that you can run the tube type without the tube just fine, however.
They're tube type since they're OEM for the KTM 690 and WR250X but you'll be fine running them without a tube. I checked with my buddy who went to MMI before I put them on and he confirmed it wouldn't cause any problems.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Zool posted:

nuh uh! The OEM tire for the KTM 690 is a Dragon Supercorsa.


shrug!

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Did some mountain riding yesterday for the first time in 2 months. Deal's Gap, Cherohala Skyway, Blood Mountain :neckbeard:. Anyway, my rears have a little bit of lean angle left which I'm fine with for the street, but what's up with my fronts?

Rear


Front


Do I need a harder turn-in? Anything else that can be said about these while I'm here?

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Cool. Wasn't sure if it was related to poor technique or just one of those things that happens.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
What pressures do you guys usually run for riding in the twisties? I've had my tires at 28/32 for a while without really thinking about it too much, but I dunno if I can/should knock them down a bit more or not. and yeah, Shinko's are complete poo poo.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
BT-090's. That's probably a good idea, I'm pretty comfortable with my grip now and turnin is alright if not a little sluggish. Is there any reason to run the fronts higher than rears?

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Primo Itch posted:

And no, never run higher pressure on the front than the back. Every bike out there keeps the front lower for a reason (you need more grip in the front, you have less weight there, also traction blah blah blah), just don't mess with that.
Emm, last time I was at JenningsGP the Mich vendors there were recommending running Pilot Races significantly higher in the front than the rear. I know that a decent amount of people put more air in the fronts than rears for the track, especially with Powers and Races. I suppose it's dependent on the tire, road grip, temperature etc, but I was wondering what the explanation for it was.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Much 'preciated z3n. I'm going to try running higher pressures and see how it works out. Worst case I can always just drop them back down.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
I saw the PR3's in person today at the Parts Unlimited dinner and talked to the Michelin rep for a while. The PR3 is basically everything the PR2 is, except better. The grip, longevity, consistency, etc is the same. Difference being is that it has the ciping on it, which according to him took >2 years of development from Mich to get a proper pattern. Also, the cipes do go all the way to the bottom of the tire so you don't have to worry about losing them after X miles. Buy the PR3's. Absolutely no reason not to.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
If you're going to buy Pilot Roads, buy the new Pilot Road 3's. Increased grip, durability, and substantially better rain performance. It's the only motorcycle tire with actual sipes so there is not a single tire that even compares with it. They're a couple dollars more but there's no reason not to buy them, especially since you won't be replacing them too often.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
What size tires does it use? Or what year & CC is it?

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Christobevii3 posted:

2008 Kawasaki Versys 650cc
They make 'em. That bike runs 120/70-17 front and 160/60-17 rear.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/28/396/35276/ITEM/Michelin-Pilot-Road-3-Front-Tire.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/28/396/35277/ITEM/Michelin-Pilot-Road-3-Rear-Tire.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

edit: ^^^^ Michelin and Bridgestone make 110 sizes in most of their tire models. You want sport touring right? You've got Pilot Road 2's, PR 3's, BT045's, and BT023's off the top of my head. Metzler and/or Avon may make some as well, but I'm not sure -- don't deal with them as much as the big 4.

-Inu- fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Mar 14, 2011

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Oh. Bridgestone also makes the BT003 RS in a 110 size too. My ninja 250 tire of choice!

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

infraboy posted:

The non 2CT pilot powers are also one of the best tires for the price right now,

94$ front tire 120-70-17
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/28/394/6163/ITEM/Michelin-Pilot-Power-Front-Tire.aspx

115$ for rear. 180-55-17

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/28/394/6164/ITEM/Michelin-Pilot-Power-Rear-Tire.aspx

so ~210$ for the set with free shipping :3
FWIW Cycle Gear is doing a package deal on the Pirelli Diablo's for $170 for a 180+120 set. If you buy them locally and the store is out, they are allowed to substitute the deal with a set of Q2's or BT016's for $199 (get the Q2's if you do this).

But yeah, the Pilot Powers are fantastic tires and are the go-to tire for all of us at work who ride on the street. Decent mileage (~4000-5000 abouts) and more grip than you should ever need on the street. Anything softer and you're riding the mountains too hard... Not that it's bad to have extra grip, but I digress, that's another discussion.

If you're solely commuting with a rare trip up to the mountains, PR2's or PR3's are your ticket. If you're going to be riding a bit more aggressively, I have nothing bad to say about the Power's. Cold and wet grip is plenty sufficient. I've had my set since October I think and commuted all winter, rain,snow,sleet,shine, whatever. I've never even had the tires slip on me.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
My 06 R6 doesn't even need it. You can use it if you have it, but it's also possible to just bang out the front axle with screwdriver and hammer. Don't know if it's the same on earlier models or not.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Just as a little extra peace of mind:

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Well, the ST tires are generally more expensive up-front but they will last you way longer than a set of sport or hypersport tires. You'll probably get 2-3 times the life out of a set of say PR3's as opposed to regular Powers.

I don't like the Pures because they are TOO soft -- well, the sidewall is. What happens is the tire [i]folds in[/u] on itself at high lean angle. This messes up the contact patch, but more importantly (especially for street riding) it completely negates all of the siping on the tires. It's kind of funny that they're so terrible in the rain, since one of the original selling points of the tire was its capability in rain.

I'll back BMK4 up on the Q2's though. Holy poo poo do I love that tire. I've never ran them on the street so I can't speak for their street mile life, but they've been my dedicated track tire this year. I switched from NTECs because I got tired of running warmers and I cannot believe how good of a tire the Q2 is. The profile of the tire is so steep that even running a mid-pack intermediate pace, I still have a 1/4" chickenstrip. I was driving hard out of corners, too. One of the main problems that most street tires have when you're riding aggressively is that they overheat quickly and start to get greasy. After doing an entire day at Jennings with 101F ambient temperature, I only had the rear tire spin on me a couple of times when I was pulling out of a corner. That was towards the end of the session, too.

Fake edit:

This is why the Pures tend to have problems

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
How long has the oil been sitting on the tire? If it's only been there for a few minutes then you will be okay washing it down with a detergent. If it's been sitting for a while (more than an hour or two), the rubber is going to have absorbed some of the oil. You would probably be okay commuting on it but I wouldn't do any aggressive riding on it.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
190/55's and 200/55's are fun as hell. Never ending side grip.

And yeah, if you are riding sensibly on the street you will never lose those front chickenstrips.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Got my hands on some free track tires that should last for the rest of the year.



Still has the knobbies in the middle, now that's what I like to see :c00l:

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Yeah, if you ride hard enough on the street that you typically blue your tires, you may as well go for the 2CT's. Otherwise, you shouldn't need any more grip than a PR2 or PR3 will offer (which is still a surprising amount, actually).

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

xd posted:

Just to create confusion, my Pilot Road 2s say 2CT on them. I'm assuming you guys mean Pilot Powers when you are saying 2CT.
Correct. "2CT" technically stands for "2 Compound Technology" so it's stamped on the Pilot Power 2CT's, Power Pure's PR2's, PR3's, and Power One's. Most of the time talking about a 2CT is referring to a Pilot Power since it has it in its name.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Z3n posted:

You'll need a compressor to get the new tire seated unless you're running tubes.
Funny story: About 30% of the time our compressor at work won't beat Q2's without ratchet straps (it has a regulator that you can't bypass, so the machine puts out ~50psi max). I was changing my tires one night at a friend's house and put Q2's on to go ride the next morning...we beaded them with a bicycle pump.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

fingerling posted:

What do you think of the Q2's man? I'm contemplating getting a rear sent over from the US. It's either $160 through a website, or $300 in a tyre store..
Fantastic tires. I've ran them on the racetrack, on the street, in the wet, in the dry, commuting, in the mountains.

On the track they give excellent grip, and bike feel is similar to the NTEC's/211 GP-A's (generally considered the "standard" race tires in the USA). Don't have to worry about them overheating and getting greasy easily like you usually do with "street" tires on the track.

They have a stiff sidewall and a less triangular profile than say, a Michelin, so they will feel different if you are used to that. Mileage wise, I'd say about 6000 miles or so out of a rear. I bought a rear last February and it's lasted about a year of street usage, along with a couple of track days at a mid-pack intermediate pace.

ReelBigLizard posted:

As someone who has tried this, I can only assume you took turns. My arms are aching just thinking about it.
It's weird, it only took him about a minute or so to bead both sides. We were both shocked as hell.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Sport Demon's are still being produced so you should get one with a pretty recent DOT number. They are good tires. Good life, good grip, single compound tire. An alternate option is the Bridgestone BT45's. They are dual compound so you have softer edges if you plan on being in the mountains a decent amount. Downside is that they have a flatter profile (less triangulated) than the Pirelli's so turn-in is more sluggish. They're also a little cheaper I believe. Both tires are pretty standard for GS500's and '08+ 250's so go with whichever sounds more appealing to you.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

Yay new tires!

The guys at the shop said that new tires are almost literally as slick as ice for the first hundred miles.

Confirm/deny.
Liability. If this were true then race tires wouldn't even be broken in by the time they're worn out. Just progressively increase lean angle and you'll be fine.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

slidebite posted:

Edit: I'd rather not gently caress up my rims
Pick up a set of rim protectors if you'd rather not scratch your wheels. You'll be able to get the job done with that stuff but I will warn you that Bridgestones, especially BT021's and BT023's are a BITCH due to their stiff sidewall. I'm not sure where you live, but the warmer you can get those old tires before you try to dismount them the less you will hate your life. The PR3's will go on easier too if they're warm, but Michelins have super soft sidewalls so putting those on shouldn't be much of a hassle as long as they're not freezing cold.

-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS
Yeah, that's why some tires with stiff sidewalls can be such a pain in the rear end. I usually had to call for help whenever I had to change a BT021/023 or Roadsmart/II because even using my entire body weight (all 140-150 lbs of it) was not enough to keep it in the drop center most of the time. Clamps sound like a fantastic idea.

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-Inu-
Nov 11, 2008

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY CUBIC CENTIMETERS

Snowdens Secret posted:

I'm still unclear whether tires are cheaper through places like Tucker Rocky even with dealer pricing than they are through Amazon. I think I had MosesP run the PR3s I got and the Amazon markup was like 6 bucks a tire, including shipping. Probably worth checking.
Depends on the discount that your dealer gets. I used to have access to some of the best dealer pricing avaliable by TR, and a 120+180 set of Q2's would run just a bit above $200 straight cost. If you're going through a smaller company that does less volume, then the price difference very well be negligible. poo poo, I know that a website (I forget the name) used to sell Pilot Powers cheaper than our cost from either Parts Unlimited or Western Powersports. A lot of places will use tires as a loss leader because they make that money right back with mounting+balancing.

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