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Dubs posted:How do you guys feel about mismatched tires? Modern tyres tend to be much more tolerant of mismatching than they were, say, 10 years ago. My only concern would be that you're talking about a SM - wide bars, high CofG, skittish. Certainly I've never had a problem with mismatched tyres in recent years. The only way is to try it out and see what happens. BTW, personally I'd put 400-specific rubber on that bike, e.g. BT090 or what I use on my CBR400, Dunlop Alpha 10s. I found using tyres designed for big sportsbikes on my old Duke II didn't work on the road - suspect the carcass was too stiff for a light, low-powered bike. If you want cheap, Maxxis do a supermoto style dual purpose tyre IIRC. Usually available on e-bay.
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2009 11:45 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 08:12 |
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While bigger tyres may fit on the rims, consider that the contact patch leant over may be reduced or the shape altered in a way that's sub-optimal. But I suppose you've also looked at what other Triumph users have done, which will be a pretty good guide to what works and doesn't. Remember though that people's first impressions comparing a brand new tyre to a square, shagged-out one will always tend to make the new rubber feel better than it will be in 500 miles. This is especially if you're adding width at the front: once it's squared off slightly, you may find steering issues start to appear. If you're experiencing more than a bit of headshake (normal anyway with a naked bike with a skinny front hoop and wide bars), would it be stating the blindingly obvious to say it's worth checking the condition and tightness of your head bearings? OrangeFurious posted:Thruxton tire talk time. I realize I've mentioned this before but am about ready to bite the bullet and buy the damned things. Not quite sure why I have such a resistance to replacing my obviously dead tires.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2009 12:57 |
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Nothing wrong with the Powers for your purposes, given the price difference. Powers don't perform particularly well in the cold in my experience (just removed them from my Hornet, where they are standard fit), but I don't think there's any reason why the 2CTs would be better in that respect. They feel very similar in ordinary road use, as you would expect (I used 2cts on my Duke II for a while). If you're commuting mostly, not sure I'd choose those tyres. That's pretty similar to my mix of use, and having done lots of track days on second-rate sports and good sports touring rubber, I'd go for something more along the lines of the latter. But then I don't really like Michelins anyway. aventari posted:bike: F4i--mostly commuting, some street fun riding and some track days.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2009 07:59 |
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NipplesTheCat posted:How all companies should advertise tires: A hideous whaletail like that is only acceptable if you're advertising Porsche parts.
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# ¿ May 20, 2010 11:52 |
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So 5,000 miles of commuting plus any riding he did at weekends, plus the rolling burnouts past the local Catholic girls' school (you are doing those, right?)? What does he want from a rear tyre? 160/60 17s are not a tough size to find. Quite the contrary - pretty much every Japanese middleweight between 1988 and 1998 used them. Just type 160/60 into ebay.co.uk and see. For sport-ish touring in all weathers, try Pirelli Angel STs or BT020 / BT021. If you want cheap, try a Maxxis Supermaxx. Conti Attacks are OK for a rear tyre and also frequently discounted (because the front ones are shite). If he's that cheap, he can also look into ebay part-worns. Also, check out your local club racers during the season for part-worn race take offs - you need to find someone with a really old 600 or a 400 with a wider wheel, though. Honestly not sure how you're going to massively improve that mileage without buying something that says Cheng Shin or worse, "Michelin Macadam" on the side. Orange Someone posted:My buddy and I both have 1993 Honda CB 400 SuperFours. We've both got BT45s on there. I had them put on at the recommendation of the garage when the bike went in for the MOT. My buddy then replaced his cheapo chinese tyres with BT45s due to my input when his old ones started getting squirelly on wet corners and tight roundabouts.
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# ¿ May 25, 2010 13:59 |
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:one side of the tread is more worn than the other. conclusion ... track is right/left handed.
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# ¿ May 27, 2010 17:48 |
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schreibs posted:Yes the track was mainly right handers, only 2.5 (chicane doesn't really count as a full turn) of the 12 turns were left. That's why I showed my right side of the tire since it has a lot more wear and the next track I go to will also be mainly rights. In that case, remove the tyres and reverse them, quick! Be warned, the bike may try to go backwards, so unbolt the linkage and reverse your shift pattern before use.
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# ¿ May 28, 2010 12:00 |
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UserNotFound posted:What would you guys recommend if I was looking for something more durable for next time? I'm probably only putting down about 60hp, and although it is a sporty bike, I probably won't be dragging my knee on freeway ramps, let alone tracking it. Given that that people claim the powers are sticky enough for a 130+hp bike, I'd think there'd be something that might get me a few extra thousand miles out to put on at my next tire change? Modern sport touring tyres are awesome, and unless you have big power, will do anything up to and including track days without giving you the slightest bit of trouble. Ten years ago this was definitely not the case! On an M750 I would actually go for BT090 or Dunlop Alpha 10 for a sports / track tyre, and sports-touring rubber if you only ride on the roads. IMO modern mainstream sports rubber's designed to work on heavy, powerful sportsbikes, and doesn't necessarily work that well on lighter machines. As far as specific tyres, currently I'm using Pirelli's Angel ST on my Hornet (aka 599) and can't fault them for stability or grip. Bridgestone BT021 are also worth a look - the Angels are cheaper and I prefer Metzeler/Pirelli or Dunlop, so I went with them, but the 020s and 021s have been "reference" sport touring tyre for years now.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2010 15:57 |
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modify_evolution posted:So, I was trying to do some tire research, because I just discovered that the tires on my new-to-me ninja are OLD. I checked out ninaj250.org, but I'd like some actual opinions, too, and honestly, don't really know what I'm looking for. Maxxis Promaxxxxxx(etc). http://www.maxxis.com/MotorcycleATV/Street.aspx
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2010 12:26 |
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Z3n posted:Pirelli Sport Demons are pretty much the standby for 250 tires. Spend a bit more on tires up front, save on crash expenses and tire bills in the long run. Haven't tried the promax myself, but the supermax(maxxx, maxxxxxxxxx whatever) can lap very close to tyres costing 1/3 to 1/2 again as much. He's not pushing the performance envelope by his own admission, so if they're cheaper it will help him afford more seat time. For you of course the Pirelli (or a race intermediate ) would be a better choice...
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2010 10:42 |
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infraboy posted:I've put about 4000 miles on Pilot Road 2s on the F2, they still look like they're new, they've handled great and i've never had any issues with grip in wet or dry. Modern S-T tires sure are amazing. I've been using the Angel ST (Sport Angel??) on my Hornet (it also comes with Powers, strangely enough). They're absolutely excellent in terms of performance (stable, yet grippy, need no appreciable warm-up time) however they do definitely "go off" before the tread is gone. I seem to recall reading similar things about other Pirelli products, although I used to use Diablos on my 954, and never had that problem. So when you get down to the last 25% of the wear, they start to get sketchy. My front is nearly hitting the wear bars about 45 degrees around on each side (fine in the middle), and you can tell it's not happy (stable, but it's tucky). They also don't seem to last a huge amount of time for something that describes itself as sport-touring. If I hold on and grit my teeth, I should get 5k out of the front one. Back ones probably 3-4. However, my commmute is basically unpoliced back roads with the operative principle being "go like gently caress", so who knows how long a "sports" tyre would last.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 09:54 |
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Ghostpilots posted:I'm thinking a 80/20, 70/30 or thereabouts would be fine- something that can run highways all day and handle gravel and backroads without making GBS threads the bed. Also nice would be some form of wet weather grip, of which my current tires have none. My KDX came with a set of distanzias - believe they're an option in those sizes. Better than trailwings, not that that's saying much.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2011 15:56 |
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Shouting Melon posted:Sounds about right - the manual for my Street Triple asks for 36/42. My F2 also uses 36/42. That's a 160/60 rear though, which IIRC is what the early SV650s used.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2011 16:19 |
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Never over 75MPH? Not hugely confidence inspiring! At least I know when I get a puncture and throw the tyre away, I'm not wasting my money.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2011 07:09 |
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There are fairly specific instructions as to what can and can't be repaired, what methods should and shouldn't be used, not to use it on a damaged wheel, followed by a specific instruction saying not over 50 in first 24 hours, and then the bit that says not over 75mph, ever. How did you determine which of these bits of guidance were merely inserted by meddling lawyers? To me, it fairly clearly says "we don't think a patch is sufficiently safe to operate with when the tyre is operating beyond this speed". Sure, it's an estimate, but there's no clear reason to assume it's not an informed estimate. In fact, as far as meddling lawyers are concerned, if they are marketing the repair product, you can reliably assume Dunlop has tested it very carefully to avoid ruinous product liability litigation.
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# ¿ Jun 7, 2011 09:40 |
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Bixington posted:What do I actually stick through the wheel for it to spin on? Go out and get a metal dowel and lube it up or what? The axle?
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2011 16:38 |
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Z3n posted:Eh, if you're happy with them, that's quite decent life to get out of the tires, why mess with success? I didn't like the feedback on the Contis at all, but that's just personal taste. My experience was that the back one is actually good. It's the front that sucks. Had a back one on my TRX with a Sportec M1 on the front and it was all good.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2011 11:00 |
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Zubumafoo posted:I've got a 1984 Nighthawk 650. The stock tire sizes are are 100/90-19 Front, 130/90-16 Rear. It looks like this isn't a size that is particularly easy to get in a more modern sport-touring type tire. Or if there is, I haven't seen it. I was checking out Michelin and Bridgestones. Anyone have any recommendations on how I should handle this? You don't NEED to, but you probably have to because you won't be able to get anything in radials that matches front and rear and is actually better than a good bias-ply. IMO, for a size combination that obscure (by modern standards), you should just look at model-specific forums to find out what the consensus is on suitable rubber.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2011 10:18 |
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Snowdens Secret posted:Pasting from another thread I guess I'm talking about many years worth of different kinds of rubber. The metzeler and pirelli sports and sports touring tyres have always felt broadly similar to me, back as far as the Mez 1 and the Dragon. Of course they were literally the same company during the 80s and are still in common ownership, which I've always assumed was related to the broadly similar feel. How much technology sharing there actually is, I can't claim to know.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2011 18:33 |
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sildargod posted:I'm thoroughly intimidated by the thread so I'm sure this has been asked before, I just cringe at the thought of trying to find it. Like Snowden's Secret said, anything sport touring is absolutely fine for the triple. Modern sports touring tyres can cope with a hell of a lot of power and handle like track rubber used to back in the day, with the bonus that they generally have super-fast warmup. I would add to his list the excellent BT023, which is slightly less fashionable (= expensive) than the Roadsmart etc. On my second of these on the Tuono and they work perfectly. I also liked the Pirelli Angel ST, but found they tended to go "off" at about 50% wear. I did try a set of Roadsmarts on my old Hornet and really liked them, but they were a much more "fidgety" tyre on that bike - fine if you don't mind a quick steering feel and a touch of instability, though not sure if that would manifest on the Triple.
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# ¿ May 9, 2012 13:58 |
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GanjamonII posted:Any thoughts on Bridgestone S20 tires? They're new and I think they're doing some sort of promotional pricing as a local shop has them priced lower than I can get Q2s online for. Well the product page says they replace the 016 pro, so they're a fast street tyre. I've had no issues with the grip levels of the BT023s on the road and they would work just fine in the intermediate group, so I would have thought those would be a better bet for a road bike, but these may be cheaper than 023s with the promotional price. If you're "not exactly fast" in your own words I doubt you would need the extra grip of the S20, albeit it's always nice to have something in reserve at the front end.
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# ¿ May 10, 2012 09:57 |
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I have a 190 BT023 on my bike, so they are out there. But yeah, for the same price I would certainly be willing to try an S20 on the front. Actually getting the completely hosed 2CT on the Tuono's front wheel swapped for an 016 Pro today as I couldn't find a part-worn 023 front. Now I can turn right again, praise allah.
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# ¿ May 11, 2012 07:34 |
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Saga posted:I have a 190 BT023 on my bike, so they are out there. Just for informational purposes, BT016 Pro front and BT023 rear combo working well so far on the Tuono. They're obviously a good match, handling wise, and the sport touring rear should eke out a few more miles. It does appear that the BT023 has a harder time on the back of the Tuono than the BT016 does on the front - the back starts to ball up a bit after a few passes around the roundabouts and slip roads near my work so is definitely getting worked, whereas the 016 pro is barely bedded-in. The 016 is an OEM tyre I got barely used from a KTM owner, so it might be one of those rumoured special OEM compound tyres made from granite.
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# ¿ May 23, 2012 12:40 |
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^^^^ Possibly it's nothing more complicated than the fact that ou're running an MT21 on the front that has a completely different tread pattern and construction. GanjamonII, how is the S20? I'm thinking of getting a part-worn S20 in preparation for a track day, as my BT023 is rapidly evaporating in early-summer cornering fun.
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# ¿ May 29, 2012 11:43 |
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sildargod posted:Saga, what kind of mileage are you getting from the BT023? I got one this past weekend on the basis that it's supposedly longer lived than the competition? It's not quite clear to me yet because I usually buy take-offs (i.e. used rubber). The current 023 is from a track bike, so came with a couple mm off each side and a little less off the middle. What I can say is that it hasn't gotten any squarer in about a 1,000 to 1,500 miles of use. In fact, if the good weather continues, it looks like the right hand side is going to hit the wear bars first. That's pretty unusual for the Tuono, as rear tyres tend to get killed pretty rapidly by the power delivery. Grip levels are really good for a touring tyre plus quick warm up, so for road use it's ideal for my bike.
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# ¿ May 29, 2012 13:38 |
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9,000 jesus, you must have magical fairy tyres. Please make me feel better and tell me that's kilometers...
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# ¿ May 30, 2012 20:37 |
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Not as ice, but less grippy than they will be. Just don't go crazy until you've scrubbed them in. Modern tyre compounds (assuming obviously that's what you have) offer so much grip from cold and warm up so quickly that you probably won't even notice any reduction in traction.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2012 07:18 |
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Anyone have any experience with the Diablo Rosso II? I picked a 120/70 up for the front of the Tuono because it was going cheap. I understood that while the Rosso had not had stellar reviews, the II was supposed to be much improved. I'm using it with a BT016 rear. Front grip using the standard Tuono pressures is just miserable. The first decent corner on my commute is exiting a roundabout after about 5 minutes of trickling and 30-40mph riding through town. No other tyre I've had in the last 4 years or so has had a problem with some gentle kneeslider destruction in this corner, but the Rosso is tucking consistently when I try to turn in on it. Keep in mind I've used a 120/70 BT016 Pro, which is supposed to be slow to warm, with no problems at all, and that the regular 016 rear still sticks like glue. My local shop initially set the pressure at 36, which according to them is what Pirelli spec for this tyre (actually 2.5 bar, I just checked). I dropped it back to what Aprilia say for the bike (33f iirc). Might try jacking it back to 36 tommorrow, but has anyone had similar issues with the Rosso II? If I can't get to grips with it, I may have to trawl ebay for a partworn 016/023.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2012 22:03 |
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No, I always used to use dragons, then diablos and have used the st more recently. It is tucking, even had the handlebars turning in one day and as it's gotten colder and the rubber is new you can see where it's done it on the tread. Guess I will try 36. Seemed strange as it's never been a problem running lower pressures with other tyres, usually just makes the bike feel squidgy. This could explain the bargain price of £60 shipped!
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2012 23:51 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 08:12 |
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Z3n posted:Ahh, that's too bad. They got pretty good reviews so I was hoping they'd be a decent (cheap) replacement for the Pilot Roads. Well, there are two reviews on visordown that say these are very slippery when new then become very sticky. Seems a bit better since going back up to 36psi, but our weather has turned so it's hard to tell. All very well if they end up gripping once they break in, but i'm not really seeing the value proposition over the BT016 or 023, which work out of the box.
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2012 19:46 |