|
I'm looking for some decent tires for my CL350. 3.00x19 front, 3.50x18 rear. Mostly just going to be street riding around town and on dual-lane country highways -- no interstates or track duties. If there's some kind of dual-sport tires that would also be good on smooth dirt roads, though, that would a nice bonus because there are some neat-looking dusty roads up here. Any suggestions? [e] I believe the closest metric equivalent to the stock size would be 80/100/19 front and 90/100/18 rear. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Mar 8, 2012 |
#
¿
Mar 8, 2012 19:26
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 21:46 |
|
|
to break the bead: a couple of C-clamps to get the new tire on: elbow grease I've never used a tubeless tire so I dunno about those, but the above has worked pretty well for me in the past.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2012 01:03
|
|
|
My CL350 calls for a 3.00x19 tire in the front. According to everything I can find, this translates to a 90/90 in metric. It is nearly impossible to find a 19" tire that skinny. Is it safe to go up to a 100/90 instead? Some of the few tires I can find that do exist in the proper size are the Avon Roadriders and the IRC GS-11. I've heard good things about the Avons. What's the verdict on IRC? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Mar 14, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2012 05:17
|
|
|
Do tubes need to be specced as exactly the same size as the tire they're going in, or can you get away with something a little different? I'm going to buy a set of Bridgestone TW26 and TW39, 110/80- Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Mar 20, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2012 16:48
|
|
|
Whoops, sorry...that was a typo. It's an 18" wheel in the back. I figured that the diameters at least had to be identical for proper fit. I have seen tubes specified with a range of sizes before, but the online places don't seem to do that. I guess I should look on the manufacturers' own websites or something?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2012 03:34
|
|
|
Gullous posted:Denniskirk has data! I put in 110/80-18 and this was in the specs: Wow, that's...extremely useful. I wish more places would list all that information. 90/100-19 ironically just brings up the tire that I'm trying to buy it for, but I sent them an email and will continue looking. Thanks! [e] there are bajillions of tubes that supposedly fit anything from a 90/90 to 120/90. Surely one of those would work. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Mar 20, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2012 05:49
|
|
|
I would suggest buying any tire at all, having someone professional install it ASAP, and saving yourself the trip to the emergency room 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2013 04:42
|
|
|
Well, if the person who buys it is sane, they'll replace the tire first thing anyway, so if you have the old one on they'll probably try to talk you down an equivalent amount. If you have two brand new tires on the bike (keep the dated receipt for both the tires and the installation) you can bring the price up a little, especially for a new rider who doesn't want to deal with immediate repairs. Ultimately you shouldn't be out too much cash and you won't have the weight on your conscience when a newbie buys the bike with bald tires, is dumb and rides it anyway, and immediately crashes. That said the front isn't as bad as the rear, no. It still has some tread. But beyond just wearing down, tires do get old and dry...I'd imagine that the heat in Texas isn't that good for them either. It's really up to you but I personally wouldn't ride it without replacing both. Your tires are all that keep you upright and on the road, remember, and unlike a car, both of them are equally critical. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jan 3, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2013 17:28
|
|
|
Out of curiosity, does the tire tread pattern change the pressure you should be running in them? The manual for my CL recommends 25-28psi in the front and 28-31 in the back. This is with your standard 1970s style street tire, pretty smooth with a lot of circumferential grooves. I've got 80/20 dual sport tires installed, which look like this  and have been running 27/30. Everything feels fine -- the actual profile of the tire is still quite round and smooth -- but does the different size and shape of contact patch mean that you're theoretically supposed to run higher or lower than stock? Or is that entirely a function of the bike's weight and balance and your riding style?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2013 04:10
|
|
|
wallaka posted:Yeah, a scotchbrite pad isn't abrasive at all and in no way analogous to sandpaper. Green scotch-brite pads are impregnated with aluminum oxide grit  (a good thing to remember if you're ever thinking about using one to e.g. clean off an old head gasket)
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2016 00:25
|
|
|
For now I'd just say replace it with the same stock tire. If you're learning to ride, there's no real need for anything fancier and more expensive. But yeah check the valve stem. Sometimes they can get dinged and start leaking around the base in a way that's not obvious unless you push and prod it for a while.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2016 23:19
|
|
|
Verge posted:i have ebc double h sintered breaks gently caress you
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2016 04:03
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 21:46 |
|
|
All the places I've been to, they've changed the tires within 30 minutes on the spot if I brought them the wheels. I mean it only takes like 2 minutes per wheel if you have a tire machine (they do), since most of the effort is in unbolting everything and getting the wheels off the bike in the first place. They can do it in between jobs and make 30-50 bucks instantly.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2016 02:47
|
|